[tomtom]

Quick entry for me this week...

M > Friday away with work. No opportunities to climb or train (some morning stretching but not much). Unfortunately managed to hurt my back somehow sleeping in a funny position (hotel bed etc..) painful lower back - though other side from before...

Sa: Went to the Jumbles - to meet up with Rman and Dave Mann. Sadly quite damp - though had good fun playing on some project problems. Back felt better for the work out.

Su: Rest and ache...

[the_dom]

A really good week of training.

Mon: Deadlifts (5/3/1 deload) and bouldering. Bouldering was the diametric opposite of the previous day - where the previous day I'd felt shaky, on monday I did everything I hadn't quite managed on sunday first go. Really good day.
Tues: Morning surf in ferociously cold, low tide beachbreak gnarl. PM Trail run.
Wed: Deadlifts (5/3/1 deload) and bouldering.  Another good bouldering session.
Thurs: Bouldering and one arm max hangs.
Fri: Rest, glorious rest.
Sat: Morning bouldering - outdoors at one of my locals. Managed about 8ish problems up to 7C. Solid day out. Deadlifts and one arm max hangs in the afternoon. Big day.
Sun: Bouldering - had done 3 7s before I fell off anything. Fell off twice in total, and did 4 problems up to 7B. Fun day out.

[Muenchener]

STG (Easter): under 80kg. This week's average 82.7, successfully back to square one 
    Kochel 6C trav project.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

In which I demonstrate complete willingness to compromise The Plan for short term performance gratification.

M: Bike one hour.
T: Bike one hour
   Wall, Boulderwelt. Shit! I was supposed to be doing PE circuits but there are new 6B/C boulders up. Training self discipline strained to the limit. Compromised with an hour bouldering then half a dozen aerocap (?) circuits, trying to go at a realistic speed and practice shaking out & recovering mid-route.
W: Bike. MRI
T: Thalkirchen. Very light session: half a dozen circuits to warm up, then brief bouldering focusing on a simulation of the crux of Saturday's intended proj.

F: GP for MRI results. Shoulder trouble. I have an arthritic & enlarged AC joint pressing on my supraspinatus tendon. Outlook for success through physiotherapy without having to file bits of bone off: good. Physio next week.

S-S: Frankenjura. The plan was to work on a route project from last year, but faced with overcast and temperatures barely above freezing, routes didn't seem like a good idea. So, bouldering. Did my first ever 6C+ on real rock on Saturday  and according to my mate's samizdat topo my second on Sunday. Although the second one was heavily reach dependent, and being a lanky sod I couldn't really justify take the grade for it.

[shark]

Effort Muench

11.3-4

M. Morning. 11.3 eatswood Beautiful day. Worked eatswood Reverse. Not feeling on it and holds a little glassy. Few goes on Ten Inch Zombies. About 4 redpoints on ER - best go dropping down to but not holding sloper. Rediscovered a useful piece of foot beta for this move. OK session Hoped for better though. Eve, Wrist complex Bolton complex DB curls DB overhead press Deadlift 1x 147.5 (PB)  1 x 150 (another PB)  1x 152.5 almost.    BTW I don't include the weight of the bar - not sure what the etiquette is with this
T.
W. Probably should have trained but didn't. Went for a cheeky pint at the Rising Sun after dropping Poppy off at guides 
T.
F. Malham with Nick C. Misty driving up. Cloudy intermittent sun rock a bit glassy. Most stuff wet when arrived including Oak but dried as day went on. Led Cons X 1. TR FEE x 1. Cons X 2. 4 goes on Raindogs from 2nd bolt. Linked from undercut to clipping last bolt x 3. At end found a useful bit of micro beta to turn left hand side hold to an undercut more easily. Cons x 3 (Nick did it x 6 !) then led FEE x 1 to finish. Useful training, probably. Nicks ability to keep lapping on Consenting compared to my inability was a bit concerning though. Eve Did some weights as Monday. Tried to deadlift 152.5kg but could scarcely lift it off ground. Attempted to fix rings but wasn't enough space where I thought it would go.
S.
S. Morning. eatswood. Misty out. Then sunny. And warmmmm. Despite warm temps holds felt OK. Felt strong on the moves. Got progressively further with each redpoint and ended up falling off at the end fading on the crimp going for the crack - vid below

Come to terms with the fact that I've left it to late to properly train aeropower and strength shizzle so going to park that for time being. Probably should have trained fingers on weds but could not be arsed and it is the first 3 consecutive rest days Ive had this year. Eased up on the booze and grub this week and weight heading in the right direction   

[Muenchener]

I don't include the weight of the bar - not sure what the etiquette is with this

You're supposed to count the total weight you lift off the floor, so including the bar. It helps to know what the bar weighs.

[shark]

I don't include the weight of the bar - not sure what the etiquette is with this

You're supposed to count the total weight you lift off the floor, so including the bar. It helps to know what the bar weighs.

I'll find out

[Nibile]

What? Tops off and shorts? It was baltic here today! I had full thermals!

[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. All bar 3, shit was hard this time. Lever and light fingerboard after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Made own problems and dynos. Some hard stuff. Lots of lever stuff, campus and fingerboard after. Big session.
F: Rest
S: Villas and Jannali. Villas, warmed up doing Beer V3 and Burgers V5, then set about working Paul's Present V10. Got the start no worries. Just need to keep feet up for the move to the pocket and then commit commit commit... That is a scary move over a shit landing. Jumped back on Crack Attack V6 that I nearly flashed last time at the end of session but was then too pooped to do it. Reworked beta and it went pretty quickly. Mate fell off Savage V8 missing the pads and landing on her ass, lots of pain, so we left (it was also so fucking hot there) and headed to nearby Jannali (east facing and shady).
I'd only been here once before (2 years ago) and had done the classic V5 Wish You Were Here. So jumped on a couple of V4s to warm back up then had a quick play on an unnamed V7, doing it in a handful of attempts. Body tension on nothing underclings with an awesome cut to get feet up. Good problem. Quite pleased as I'd tried it ages ago and got shut down. Then jumped back on Triple Bypass V7, slightly overhanging wall with 3 big moves, none of which I can do.... Still. One day... Will have to come back soon for the V8 and V10 versions of Wish You Were Here. The 8 definitely seems feasible.
S: Black Cave. Quick warm up doing a V4 and a V6 then jumped back onto The Plunge V9/10. Still many dabs for dyno. Ended up getting rid of pads from the whole swing area and still hitting ground, so need to work on that.....

[shark]

What? Tops off and shorts? It was baltic here today! I had full thermals!

Makes a change

[the_dom]

Did my first ever 6C+ on real rock on Saturday  and according to my mate's samizdat topo my second on Sunday. Although the second one was heavily reach dependent, and being a lanky sod I couldn't really justify take the grade for it.

Nice one! (And I'm not sure that you're so lanky that you qualify for full lankiness deductions - take the grade)

[Muenchener]

What? Tops off and shorts? It was baltic here today! I had full thermals!

Here too. I was climbing in a fleece, and spotting in a fleece, primaloft jacket and down vest whilst regretting that I didn't bring the BIG down jacket.

[T_B]

84.5Kg

M - School lunch. Wrist worse than last week, did some pink circuit sections but couldn't undercut. On the plus side, left ring finger tested on Total Recoil crimp rail and it is SORTED.
T - Wrist sore
W - Foundry lunch. Tested wrist on Wave to decide whether or not to pull out of CWIF and it felt fine, though just did some Level 2s.
T - P.M. Run. Eccy Woods x 2 circuits. 11.2Km / 172M. Pushed it really hard trying to work on speed.
F -
S - CWIF am session. Started off OK with a few of the easier problems, then flashed the short hand crack on the comp wall. Popped off a slopey crimp on a relatively easy move in the bomb bay. Did the arête transition but then took more goes to match and move off the crimp. Then it all started to unravel. Basically moving badly and making silly mistakes taking two goes to do stuff or falling off trying to match the final hold on the flash, then not doing the problem at all. Finished with 155 points, down on 207 last year  and about 5 bonuses. On about my penultimate problem I also did something stupid which resulted in a swollen index finger the next day and acute pain if held in a particular prehension. Oh dear. But wrist only hurt on one problem.
S - Nearly didn't go out as watched the CWIF semis then ate loads of burger/pizza, but headed out for 5pm. Win Hill x 2 8.8Km, 529M.

One injury sorted, one only seems aggravated by very specific things, and one new finger injury. The latter was done doing something 'weird' so will hopefully clear up relatively quickly (though still swollen this am). I doubt I'll be able to climb/train properly this week though.

Two weeks to Font, looking forward to learning to climb again. Back to basics!

[nai]

I don't include the weight of the bar - not sure what the etiquette is with this

You're supposed to count the total weight you lift off the floor, so including the bar. It helps to know what the bar weighs.

I'll find out

Likely be 10kg, fairly significant

[cheque]

STG- Move house
MTG- Make film without getting shit.
STG- Climb hard one day.

Nothing at all this week, just lifting and carrying stuff. Consumed by moving business. Jealous to see loads of people on social media out climbing (well, some went to a climbing wall thing) without me, but it will be worth it once the move is done!

[SA Chris]

Mad week!

STG - get light, LTG get strong

M - Wall session. Felt pretty good, managed a problem I've been trying for weeks just a few days before the reset. Felt living end for me, so probably about 6c
T - Not much. Furious pack and with the intention of leaving house by about 8:30, got away by 10:15. Drove as far as Tomintoul before kipping for the night
W - Awoke to fresh snow, got as far as Aviemore before deciding weather weas too claggy to bother going anywhere, so stopped for a coffee. Got to car park and set off up Faicall Corrie Cas in nearly zero zis and light snow. A short ski down Raibert's before branching off to top of Y Gully, which was full of fresh wet heavy snow, needed full on jump turns to get skis clear. It started to clear by now, so then Castlegates Gully which, after a cautious entry, was laden with great quality snow. As a quick closer we did a small chute on the left of Pinnacle, then headed back over plateau with the intention of doing the Couloir in Lochain, but visibility went to shit and light was fading fast so we headed down Lurchers with enough snow to get all the way to car park (with a short walk where patch goes uphill). Epic day and one of my best on the hills in Scotland ever.
T - utterly broken. Right leg and butt cheek so sore I can barely walk. Eases up during day. No exercise.
F - Final bouldering comp of series. "Redpoint format" so unlimited goes and points based on progress on the problem. Took a while to get head around this, so on a few probs I was hanging in making desperate beta adjustments when I should have just let go. Climbed OK though, but still felt broken from Thursday. Finished 3rd in Vets and 2nd overall. Set of Rock Rungs and 10 climb pass. Win.
S - Felt even more broken. Partner ill so in charge of kids - short walk, not much in afternoon.
S - Partner still ill. Swimming in afternoon with eldest and short walk.

Must have burnt a lot of calories on Wednesday, because weight 13 st 3.5 this morning, after 13 st 7 this time last week.

[Coops_13]

STG: 7b/7b+ in Slovenia, heal fingers/wrist
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

Felt psyched at start of week, no psyche by end...

M: Ab Ripper X
T: Nothing.
W: Indoors, cut session short as right hand ring finger A2 was hurting, a lot.
T: Ab Ripper X
F: Nothing
S: Went to Westway to do some routes as couldn't get out Cut session short again due to finger; hurt on crimps, slopers, jugs. Not good as Slovenia in a couple of weeks
S: Nothing

[a dense loner]

Shark I've never been to eatswood so don't know what the holds are like but you seem to shake out twice for quite a while in what looks like 10 ft of climbing? Do you need to do this for so long? Could be draining you slowly. Apart from that you look good on it!

[Nibile]

I don't include the weight of the bar - not sure what the etiquette is with this

You're supposed to count the total weight you lift off the floor, so including the bar. It helps to know what the bar weighs.

I'll find out

Likely be 10kg, fairly significant

Jesuscrhist I hope not!
A ten kg bar is far too thin for deadlifting big weights!
Standard lifting bars are 20 kg.

[Nibile]

STG - board projects, NEW PROJECT ON ROCK

Mon - hill sprints.
Tue - rest.
Wed - Board climbing. Good goes on project. Rings. Snatch pulls.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board climbing. Took it easy, nearly did project. Very strong. Snatch pulls, cleans.
Sun - bouldering! Tried a new project, very hard. Good power on it, but it wasn't enough. Baby skin, was fucked very soon. Then tired. Failed on usual roof. Tweaked my neck in a fall, ouch. Good day out. Must address skin issues if I want to climb on rock.

[Dolly]

M Pilates in the evening followed by Kettlebell and dumbell HIT
T Foundry Furnace board. Hard
W Did 2 bodyweight HIT sessions. 1 in the am and one at night for some reason
T Wave. Wasn't particularly good. Small run in the evening which was hard as I haven't done much recently
F Kettelbells in the morning
S Cratcliffe and RHS with Seb. Didnt do anything I haven't done before but had fun and climbed a reasonable amount.
S Gym core in early on then gardening all day. Knackered

[tommytwotone]

Finding out I've got a pass for a 3-day weekend in Font ( ) somewhat restarted my enthusiasm!


M - gym at lunchtime - various shoulder machine exercises and some free weight shoulder complexes (press, side raise, front raise) 3 sets of 5 reps. Embarrassingly I could only do 4kg on the raises!
T - mega DOMS, Depot in evening on new wood V4-6s. Did well cosidering, actually skin / fingertip pain that was major niggle.
W - gym on lunch, different shoulder complex (bar press, bar upright row, dumbbell side raise, dumbbell hammer front raise), 30 sec work / rest between each exercise, 4 sets.
T - rest, obsessing on bleau.info on lunch.
F - gym on lunch, tabata class.
S - nothing.
S - surprise window of opportunity so rushed to Woodhouse for a quick hit. Bit rushed, got caught in traffic on way there, got flustered, was a bit over-warm too. Didn't really have a plan of what to try., so ended up getting back on a 6c+ that totally isn't my style and getting annoyed and then ripped a flapper on my last go. On the plus side I did bump into Nathanie of this parish (and Mrs Nathanie)  .


Long weekend in Font in a few weeks. Seriously reining in my expectations, looking for nice / classic mid-6s and will be happy with a 6c to be honest.

[cheque]

I don't include the weight of the bar - not sure what the etiquette is with this

You're supposed to count the total weight you lift off the floor, so including the bar. It helps to know what the bar weighs.

I'll find out

Likely be 10kg, fairly significant

Jesuscrhist I hope not!
A ten kg bar is far too thin for deadlifting big weights!
Standard lifting bars are 20 kg.

Mine weighs 2kg... a week or so after I lifted 120kg on it (the last time I deadlifted) I found out that 120 is it's max load... 

[shark]

Shark I've never been to eatswood so don't know what the holds are like but you seem to shake out twice for quite a while in what looks like 10 ft of climbing? Do you need to do this for so long? Could be draining you slowly. Apart from that you look good on it!

You might be right but the knee bar is pretty good and I think I'm pretty good at milking rests and judging what length of recovery I need. Earlier attempts yesterday I wasnt recovering as well so just chalked and went.

Whilst it would be nice to get the tick my main reason for being there is training for the Oak.When I do the Reverse Im only going to start working on heading back again with a view to working this mythical aeropower (ie 2-3 mins of hard climbing) which came up as a relatively weak point on Tom's Lattice assessment. Also shaking at poor rests is useful on the Oak.

[r2d2]

Shark I've never been to eatswood so don't know what the holds are like but you seem to shake out twice for quite a while in what looks like 10 ft of climbing? Do you need to do this for so long? Could be draining you slowly. Apart from that you look good on it!

You might be right but the knee bar is pretty good and I think I'm pretty good at milking rests and judging what length of recovery I need. Earlier attempts yesterday I wasnt recovering as well so just chalked and went.

Whilst it would be nice to get the tick my main reason for being there is training for the Oak.When I do the Reverse Im only going to start working on heading back again with a view to working this mythical aeropower (ie 2-3 mins of hard climbing) which came up as a relatively weak point on Tom's Lattice assessment. Also shaking at poor rests is useful on the Oak.

Do people shake out on the eatswood traverse 

[abarro81]

When I do the Reverse Im only going to start working on heading back again with a view to working this mythical aeropower

Much better training, in my opinion, would be to go to somewhere like Rubicon or Anston, smash out a couple of hours of powerful and fingery limestone bouldering, then go inside and do some aero pow training on the way home. I don't think that trying eatswood there and back is a particularly good way to train aeropow. Or anything other than traversing at eatswood for a man who's already been there quite a bit. Just my opinion.