[ashtond6]

Can anyone help me with the list below? & recommend any other traverses?

I've started making a list of long UK boulder problems with a plan to record the 'sport' grade for motivation & training purposes.   Basically, to give me something to work with when partnerless, or short on time. Most of this is Peak-centric but I am also logging other areas

I'm looking at V3-V8 for myself, but if anyone wants to add easier/harder ones I will update the list
Don't really want this to become a big grade debate - only looking for estimates. The grades below are guess or stuff I've heard from friends

Peak
Dragonflight Traverse f6A+ = ?
Armoured Car Traverse f6A = 6c
Grim Reaper Traverse f6B = ? (possibly too short)
Middle Break (Stoney) f6B = 6c+?
Soapsuds Traverse  f6B = 6c/+/7a?
Keyhole Traverse 1/2/3/4 f6C/f7A/f7B/f7B+ = ?????
Minus Ten wall traverse  f6C+ = 7c?
Weedkiller Traverse f7A+ = 7c+/8a
Powerband f7C = ?

Other areas
Plumbline Traverse f6C = 7b+
Longridge Start to Icefall = 7b+
Longridge Start to Wobble block = 7c+

If I get a good list together I'll add a ticklist on UKC

I guess this will seem silly to some people,  I find it helps me understand where I am

[Muenchener]

Very not in the Peak - not in the UK in fact but

f6B = 6c+?

seems to be the standard exchange rate over here, whereas

f7A+ = 7c+/8a

... isn't

7A+ =~ 7c   

on both of my current 7A+ projects (Fj & Kochel). But both are short cruxes followed by reasonable rests followed by 6B/+ ish. Sustained pumpfests might be different.

[abarro81]

If you just want ballpark ideas then just add 3 grades, as Muenchener implies. Should be right +/- 1

[ashtond6]

Very not in the Peak - not in the UK in fact but

f6B = 6c+?

seems to be the standard exchange rate over here, whereas

f7A+ = 7c+/8a

... isn't

7A+ =~ 7c   

on both of my current 7A+ projects (Fj & Kochel). But both are short cruxes followed by reasonable rests followed by 6B/+ ish. Sustained pumpfests might be different.

cool thanks, got the 7A+ conversion from previous threads about Weedkiller trav. used to be called the 8a traverse but now considered 7c+
 

[Fultonius]

If you ever make it to Scotland -

Consolidated F7B+  (Fr7c+ ??)

Or the Extension to the above at F7C (Fr8a ??)

I'm currently nursing a cricked neck from the former, but it's still a great problem.

[ashtond6]

If you just want ballpark ideas then just add 3 grades, as Muenchener implies. Should be right +/- 1

3 full grades? so f7A/8a f6C/7c

If you ever make it to Scotland -

Consolidated F7B+  (Fr7c+ ??)

Or the Extension to the above at F7C (Fr8a ??)

work in Scotland at least once a month.... so keep the Scottish ones coming! Any good ones at Dumby?

[abarro81]

3 grades, so 7A = 7b+, 7C = 8a+ etc..

[Fultonius]

Woops, forgot to mention they're both at Dumby!!

There are numerous other problems with "traverse" in the name at dumby but they're usually more like actual problems that just go a bit sideways.

1990 Traverse at F7B is a good one, but it doesn't ever get given a route grade edited as I just saw it gets Fr7b+ in the latest Stone Country guide.  Gimme a shout if you're going down and I can show you round. (Based in Glasgow again)

[lagerstarfish]

Full Green/Dope on a Slope is 7A+ and may be easier than 8a, even if you stop and pretend to do a clip in a couple of places

based on my half remembered experience as an 8a redpointer 20 yrs ago

[ashtond6]

Woops, forgot to mention they're both at Dumby!!

There are numerous other problems with "traverse" in the name at dumby but they're usually more like actual problems that just go a bit sideways.

1990 Traverse at F7B is a good one, but it doesn't ever get given a route grade edited as I just saw it gets Fr7b+ in the latest Stone Country guide.  Gimme a shout if you're going down and I can show you round. (Based in Glasgow again)

f7B=F7b+?!?? seems harsh! im not climbing anywhere near 7B yet (hence this thread) but I done on F7b & been v close to F7b+

ok thanks! I was thinking of heading there on Friday... Find Dumby totally desperate, kept blowing the last move on Persistence of Vision on my last visit!

[ashtond6]

Full Green/Dope on a Slope is 7A+ and may be easier than 8a, even if you stop and pretend to do a clip in a couple of places

based on my half remembered experience as an 8a redpointer 20 yrs ago

I'll include it at 7c/+ then, thanks as that's a good one

[Fultonius]

Woops, forgot to mention they're both at Dumby!!

There are numerous other problems with "traverse" in the name at dumby but they're usually more like actual problems that just go a bit sideways.

1990 Traverse at F7B is a good one, but it doesn't ever get given a route grade edited as I just saw it gets Fr7b+ in the latest Stone Country guide.  Gimme a shout if you're going down and I can show you round. (Based in Glasgow again)

f7B=F7b+?!?? seems harsh! im not climbing anywhere near 7B yet (hence this thread) but I done on F7b & been v close to F7b+

It is harsh, but it's not really a traverse so pump isn't an issue. If you can make it through the crux then the finishing moves aren't too hard.

ok thanks! I was thinking of heading there on Friday... Find Dumby totally desperate, kept blowing the last move on Persistence of Vision on my last visit!

It is, but persevere as it will make you stronger and better!

[Paul B]

Look at the Longridge list on the Lakesbloc topo, you've got start to high break to add in etc.

All of the tor traverses (lots of).

Inertia Reel, Roaches.

[shark]

Good progression to be found at eatswood and permadry (though banned):

eatswood Traverse 7B+ (8a)
eatswood Reverse 7C (8a+)
Combined 7C/7C+ (hard 8a+?)

[Paul B]

Are those Shark grades?

There's barely any difference on the Forward/Reverse options, or if you're doing it all off knees then the forward grade needs to reflect this. Combined isn't hard F8a+, solid F8a perhaps.

[ashtond6]

Thanks all, good stuff already

Need some more in the f6C region

Updated list with estimated grades:

Dragonflight Traverse f6A+ ~ 6c+
Armoured Car Traverse f6A ~ 6c
Grim Reaper Traverse f6B ~ 7a (possibly too short)
Middle Break (Stoney) f6B ~ 6c+
Soapsuds Traverse  f6B+ ~ 6c+/7a
Keyhole Traverse 1/2/3/4 f6C/f7A/f7B/f7B+ ~ ?????
Minus Ten wall traverse  f6C+ ~ 7b+
Inertia Reel f7A~ ?
Weedkiller Traverse f7A+ ~ 7c+
Powerband f7C ~ ?
Full Green Traverse/Dope on a Slope f7A+ ~ 7c/+
eatswood Traverse f7B+ ~ 8a
eatswood Reverse 7C ~ 8a+
Combined 7C/7C+ ~ hard 8a+?

Plumbline Traverse f6C ~ 7b+
Longridge Start to Icefall ~ 7b+
Longridge Start to Wobble block ~ 7c+
Other longridgetraverses to be added soon


Scotland
Traverse Chlochodrick Stone ~ 6b+
Low Traverse Chlochodrick Stone ~ 8a?
Consolidated f7B+ ~ 7c+ Extension f7C/8a
1990 Traverse f7B ~ 7b+

[a dense loner]

These must be from a routers perspective, I don't see a traverse as anything other than climbing sideways. I find it very hard to compare any on that list or any that I've done to a route grade.

[shark]

Are those Shark grades?

Are you calling me out as a serial over-grader ?

[Paul B]

Are those Shark grades?

Are you calling me out as a serial over-grader ?

depends on your conversion scale. I always use PUTP as a benchmark "Hard 8a+" which also gets a bouldering grade (accepting we're talking route-like problems here), and EW Trav there and back doesn't even come close.

[abarro81]

Using PUTP as a benchmark 8a+ does have the minor issue that it means things like Ben's roof and Powerband are about 7a+

[a dense loner]

That's the point, comparing them is pointless

[a dense loner]

Traverse. Old person or person with leg injuries too scared to do high boulders or routes moves sideways, usually within 6 inches of floor level, some Parisienne locals think they climb Boulder 8c+/9a or route 9a+ this way

[ashtond6]

That's the point, comparing them is pointless

If it's not useful to you, no problem, don't use them. I recently visited Longridge and thought it was very useful that if I did the crux in isolation it was a recognised hard V4, but if I linked it into a big traverse it was considered around 7b+

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

[Tommy]

It's easy. Stop thinking that PUTP is 8a+ and then comparisons are reasonable. ;-)

I think Shark's grades for eatswood aren't that bad actually. If you climb an 8a using a lot of knee bars then it feels pretty similar. There and back is pretty bloody tricky for 8a+. I'd rather climb that grade on many other things!

[a dense loner]

I don't use them. We're on a forum and I'm sharing my pov, no doylo not that kind, on them. What you will find is that if you do lots of traverses you'll get good at doing that grade traverse, which won't in any way relate to the same route grade. You are r-man and I claim my £5