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Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades (Read 12772 times)

Will Hunt

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#50 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 17, 2015, 01:00:07 pm
The Virgin Traverse, Almscliff - F6B+ / 9a+?

You're not wrong. I had to reign myself in on the Pisa traverse. It gets 6A on UKC as its piss but a little pumpy UNTIL YOU GET WITHIN 4 METRES OF THE END. At which point it becomes the hardest piece of climbing known to man. I think I've done it successfully twice! 9A/9b+

Johnny Brown

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#51 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 17, 2015, 01:07:00 pm
The main reason why trav fitness doesn't always convert to route fitness is, in my opinion, less likely to be physiological and more likely to be psychological and tactical.

 :agree:

Really? Surely the basic energy demand of joules to lift a mass is absent for traverses?

tomtom

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#52 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 17, 2015, 01:08:32 pm
The Virgin Traverse, Almscliff - F6B+ / 9a+?

After years of trying the Virgin Traverse, I gave up and did the Keel instead...

abarro81

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#53 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 17, 2015, 01:15:18 pm
JB - no doubt there are some differences in terms of stresses on bicep and shoulder muscles, contraction times, wrist angles etc, not to mention technique, but I really doubt that physiology is the main reason why some are much worse on routes than they should be given what they can trav.

dave

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#54 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 17, 2015, 01:15:50 pm
The main reason why trav fitness doesn't always convert to route fitness is, in my opinion, less likely to be physiological and more likely to be psychological and tactical.

 :agree:

Really? Surely the basic energy demand of joules to lift a mass is absent for traverses?

Any move on a traverse/linkup where you actually have to pull upwards always feels like a kick in the teeth for this very reason.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2015, 01:32:52 pm by dave »

Doylo

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#55 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 17, 2015, 01:31:01 pm
JB - no doubt there are some differences in terms of stresses on bicep and shoulder muscles, contraction times, wrist angles etc, not to mention technique, but I really doubt that physiology is the main reason why some are much worse on routes than they should be given what they can trav.

Don't think you need to look into it too deeply. They're just easier to do, no belayer, no faff, easy to work etc...

lagerstarfish

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#56 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 17, 2015, 01:40:15 pm

and then there's the old favorite linking all 3 tiered traverses into Crimps and Pockets 6C,6A,5,6B. 7b+? changing the order of the traverses will make a difference


that's a good one, thanks

it really is a good place for linking traverses into straight ups in the sub-hero grades

the black bulge lends itself to juggy figure of eight circuits

JK

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#57 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 17, 2015, 06:04:12 pm
For something a bit esoteric there is Lipo Suction at Wetherby, f7C. A sport grade feels much more appropriate as it is around 90 moves.

Muenchener

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#58 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 17, 2015, 07:59:56 pm
They're just easier to do, no belayer, no faff, easy to work etc...

What about the Mat Shifter?

Doylo

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#59 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 17, 2015, 08:29:37 pm
Most traverse are right by the ground aren't they not?

dunnyg

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#60 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 18, 2015, 03:49:38 pm
 Almscliff crucifix traverse, 7a F6B I think? Pumpier than virgin traverse unless you sit undue crack for 10 minutes...

haydn jones

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#61 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 18, 2015, 04:21:50 pm
Lots of link ups at gentlemans rock

Sidehaas

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#62 Re: Bouldering Traverses & Sport Grades
September 18, 2015, 05:16:39 pm
A churnet list would be good...

 

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