a really interesting (well to me anyway) bit of micro beta. When I was was crossed through, if I jumped my feet up and back down again on the footholds (almost re-setting my body position) I was able to power through the second half.
Quote from: tomtom on June 07, 2015, 06:38:31 pma really interesting (well to me anyway) bit of micro beta. When I was was crossed through, if I jumped my feet up and back down again on the footholds (almost re-setting my body position) I was able to power through the second half. That sort of thing is cool. I was working a 7b+ at the wall the other day that involved a big sideways reach off a gaston to a pocket. I found if I crimped the gaston instead of pinching it, I could get my hips in a bit closer, which meant I was more in control when I hit the pocket at full stretch ... etc.I suppose the big question for improving at climbing generally is whether one can generalise from a little move-specific trick like that to recognising and being more efficient in similar situations when they come up in other places.
surprised myself by pulling it off... snatched the edge post cross through and just held it - then romped on to the end and top out. Superb. Not sure if I can remember what Andy P graded it as - but it felt a solid 7B to me... Feel like I'm climbing the best I ever have at the moment. Good feeling
STG: The Oak (by June 13th) Second burn - sent.
Feels good to go from despair at physical conditon to first 8b.
Basically I'm pretty much back up to where I was strength wise.
Quote from: shark on June 08, 2015, 03:09:57 pmBasically I'm pretty much back up to where I was strength wise.That sounds good, how's the hand healing/feeling?
A deeply satisfying experience. I attached a lot of meaning to getting back into the game following back surgery 18 months ago. Feels good to go from despair at physical conditon to first 8b. Keenly aware how it could all fall apart tomorrow. Also realised that I'm only 3 weeks into a 6 week period of good form so I'm going to use it for some hardish trad projs on home turf and try to consolodate with some low 8s.
LTG- Flash Jade.
S: Wing Cave. Only been here once before and I kinda got spanked (middle of summer). Warmed up campussing a V3, ticking a V2 and a great V5. Then got onto Weak Ape Test Zone V7. I'd done nearly all the moves last time (like 2 years ago) but was there by myself then and with only one pad. Not ideal. Got on it and pretty quickly realised it all came down to the one rh bump from a big pinch to a jug. Came off this move so many times. Got dark and I managed to stick the move by head torch. Ended up doing the prob next go. Felt cruisy too dammit.
Love that crag! Do you know if anyone has repeated my V10/11 prob from 2003 it's right of Groove Terminator - called Sheffield Steal?