a really interesting (well to me anyway) bit of micro beta. When I was was crossed through, if I jumped my feet up and back down again on the footholds (almost re-setting my body position) I was able to power through the second half.
Quote from: tomtom on June 07, 2015, 06:38:31 pma really interesting (well to me anyway) bit of micro beta. When I was was crossed through, if I jumped my feet up and back down again on the footholds (almost re-setting my body position) I was able to power through the second half. That sort of thing is cool. I was working a 7b+ at the wall the other day that involved a big sideways reach off a gaston to a pocket. I found if I crimped the gaston instead of pinching it, I could get my hips in a bit closer, which meant I was more in control when I hit the pocket at full stretch ... etc.I suppose the big question for improving at climbing generally is whether one can generalise from a little move-specific trick like that to recognising and being more efficient in similar situations when they come up in other places.
surprised myself by pulling it off... snatched the edge post cross through and just held it - then romped on to the end and top out. Superb. Not sure if I can remember what Andy P graded it as - but it felt a solid 7B to me... Feel like I'm climbing the best I ever have at the moment. Good feeling
STG: The Oak (by June 13th) Second burn - sent.