[shark]

Feels good to go from despair at physical conditon to first 8b.

Brilliant news - well done 

11.6-8

M.
T.
W. Eve Went to Tor and bouldered for a couple of hours on Undercut to Crimp and start of Bens Roof. Made some progress on Bens compared to last Saturday having packed a more suitable shoe for toe hooking. Drove on to Ramshaw and met Nick C and Simon C there. We all tried Tierdrop without success. Got to the rail a few times but couldn't commit to dynoing - the last hold is so far away. Disappointing not to do it but on a positive note I couldnt even get to the rail when I tried it 10? years ago T.
T.
F.
S. AM Tor with Nick. Quite cold in wind. Put a rope on Anger Management (8a+). Put in some time on this in the past but dont think I tried this last year. Felt good on the moves. Jugged back up for two more goes at working it. Discovered a more static way to do the crux (basic lockoff on right hand to reach for a layaway with the left). More powerful but less moves and lower % than the on/off way I was trying before (holding an undercut and windmilling with right off a bad foothold to get the aforementioned sidepull as a gaston). Maybe I wasnt strong enough to do it static before.
S. Gardening   

Only two sessions this week. Basically I'm pretty much back up to where I was strength wise. Weight is up and touched 11.8 on friday compared to 11.2 5 weeks ago. Will stick with alternating between trying Anger Management and bouldering at the Tor and home training upping the volume compared to the last 4 weeks probably day on/day off .

 

[shurt]

Nice one on the Oak send. Good psyche for the coming week...

STG: finish Still Waters at Cheddar , v close now or any 7b for that matter
MTG: finish Bullworker at Brean Down after falling off top move 3 times in December
LTG: E6, 8a route, surpass previous best of V7/7a+ bouldering

m: nothing
t: did a few routes at New Quarry down at Avon. 2 x 6b+ survived the polish. Then had a go at Bitter and Twisted 7b really full on bouldery routes. Got draws in and worked out moves then had a pretty good blast doing it with a rest. Was knackered so went home.
w: nothing 
t: rest
f: Evening at Cheddar. Finally got back on Still Waters after a quick blast on Dada (7a) as some sort of warm up. Third session on the route but first one with red point attempts. The previous two had been dogs at the end of a day. Had three good attempts getting higher and higher each time. Managed it with one rest falling off doing some foot swap move at the end. Felt like real progress. Such an amazing route. Its banned till later in the year at the end of the month so have 23 days left to get it done! 
s: nothing. ached a lot and tweaky pec + quad
s: drank from lunch till whenever. quad in agony esp when walking down stairs. it will pass, massage painful.

Great progress this week. Managed two sessions outdoors which is a rarity. Feel really good about getting up this route next time I go out, hopefully this coming week.

[iain]

Basically I'm pretty much back up to where I was strength wise.

That sounds good, how's the hand healing/feeling?

[fried]

M - Nothing
Tu - Indoor, hot, ticked off loads of easy stuff as I haven't been in for a while.
W- Nothing
Th - Nothing
F - Should have done a BM session but is was 31° and I couldn't face it.
Sa - Nothing
Su - Early start before it gets too hot. Go to Segognole, to try to finish off a couple of red circuit problems that I should have done last time I was here. Especially this http://bleau.info/segognole/10584.html . I was expecting it to get done fairly quickly, sadly I couldn't hold one of the move, it was hot, my thumb/ wrist still aches, those are my week's excuses. Ticked off another red, then it was too hot. Did the first half of the orange circuit. Bit disappointed after some good recent sessions.

[Dolly]

Nice one Pete.


I tweaked a finger at Anston do decided to ease off for a few days to give it chance to recover



M Kettlebells at the gym before Pilates
T Foundry lunchtime
W Quick lunchtime run. Hot
T Kettlebells up the garden
F Walked about 10 minutes to Headingley from the car.
S Gym in the morning for Kettlebells and Bulgarian Bag
S

[the_dom]

Mon: Rest day. Felt tired and down.
Tues: Heavy kettlebell session - 10 sets of (25 swings, 4 turkish getups, 3 shoulder presses per arm, 3 dumbell snatches) - all with a 24 kg kettlebell or a 24 kg dumbbell. Felt beasted afterwards.
Wed: Sneaky lunchtime one arm max hangs hangboard & mobility session. PM bouldering. Got burned off by strong(er) people.
Thurs: Solid hangboard session - sloper max hangs, CWP one arms and repeaters on small BM edges and 35 degree slopers.
Fri: Trail run - felt sinusy.
Sat: Still sinusy. Got up early for a surf but the promised swell hadn't arrived so went home without getting wet. PM hangboard - ne arm max hangs and encores on small BM edges and 35 slopers.
Sun: Bouldering. Fell off last move of my 7C+ project twice before others arrived to try it and my psyche evaporated. Annoying as I felt strong. Next time. Finished off with some one arm max hangs & mobility when I got home.

[shark]

Basically I'm pretty much back up to where I was strength wise.

That sounds good, how's the hand healing/feeling?

Pretty good thank you. Just have to be careful not to knock or scrape it. Taping my fingers works well.

[Luke Owens]

A deeply satisfying experience. I attached a lot of meaning to getting back into the game following back surgery 18 months ago. Feels good to go from despair at physical conditon to first 8b. Keenly aware how it could all fall apart tomorrow. Also realised that I'm only 3 weeks into a 6 week period of good form so I'm going to use it for some hardish trad projs on home turf and try to consolodate with some low 8s.

So psyched for you Pete! Inspired!

[SA Chris]

LTG- Flash Jade.

Shame you got robbed of the onsight.

[duncan]

73.5kg

STG:
Lose 2kg.
OS E3.
MTG: E5 by end of September. Get flock of ducks in a row to enable trip to Picos, amongst others, this summer.
LTG: Long hard (for me) rock routes in the Alps, Dolomites, Picos and Scotland. 7b+ RP.

M - Shoulder stability stuff.
T- Westway: Bouldering to ~V3, Routes to 6b.
W - Mini fingerboard session.
T - Westway: 4x4 routes to 6a+. Shoulder stability stuff.
F -
S - Fair Head. Strolled around the top of the crag. 40mph winds and showers. Went for a cream tea.
S - Fair Head.  Windy and chilly. Warmed up, two E1s on The Prow. Tried The Embankment (E2) but ran out of small gear and psyche so bailed into Railroad at 30m. Punter!


Fair Head is predictably amazing: 'Ceuse for trad. climbers' (Connor). I can't believe I've never been before. Getting a feel for the place and the climbing, so probably won't be climbing E3+ on this trip though.

Plan: enjoy Fair Head. Ease back into fingerboarding and harder bouldering on return.

[Luke Owens]

STG: The Screaming Skull (7b), Flowers for the Dead (7c)
MTG: Diamond Project (August), 7b+ in Ceuse (September)
LTG: 8a

M: Still ill

T: Llanymynech - rushed late session so tried doing Screaming Skull while putting the clips in as a warm up. Conditions were awful and fired off a wet crimp low down. Tried my best to dry the route. 2nd go it started throwing it down and going dark, still managed a good effort and fell off the jugs at the top 2 moves from the chains, so pumped as had been overgripping on wet holds all the way.

W: Rest

T: Llanymynech - Ticked The Screaming Skull first go today while putting the clips in as a warm up, super happy but got mega right arm flash pump from not warming up before hand. Did really recover from it put tried onsighting a 7a anyway, came off going for a non-hold. had another go but was just too pumped.

F: ill again

S: Family camping holiday/ ill

S: Family camping holiday/ ill

[mr chaz]

STG: Crush ze boulderz

Mon. Campus - did a few 147, did 157, almost did 158. Bit on the 40 degree board.
Tues. 40 degree board.
Wed. Left arm feeling destroyed, tried to train but gave up after 20 mins. Did all the slabs problems instead. Took this as a sign to lay off for a few days, I have done a decent 4-5 weeks doing a lot of strength/power so this was probably due.
Thur. Rest
Fri. Rest
Sat. Rest
Sun. Rest

Back on it this week, hopefully get out at the weekend too. STILL ABSOLUTELY PSYCHED OUT OF MY TINY MIND. Moony and Ondra have only added to this.

[a dense loner]

Why what have Moony and Ondra done? I've not heard

[mr chaz]

 

[Bonjoy]

S: Wing Cave. Only been here once before and I kinda got spanked (middle of summer). Warmed up campussing a V3, ticking a V2 and a great V5. Then got onto Weak Ape Test Zone V7. I'd done nearly all the moves last time (like 2 years ago) but was there by myself then and with only one pad. Not ideal. Got on it and pretty quickly realised it all came down to the one rh bump from a big pinch to a jug. Came off this move so many times. Got dark and I managed to stick the move by head torch. Ended up doing the prob next go. Felt cruisy too dammit.

Love that crag! Do you know if anyone has repeated my V10/11 prob from 2003 it's right of Groove Terminator - called Sheffield Steal?

[JackAus]

Love that crag! Do you know if anyone has repeated my V10/11 prob from 2003 it's right of Groove Terminator - called Sheffield Steal?

I don't think its ever been repeated!
Still only gets V10 and always spelled Sheffield Steel. Is it supposed to be Steal?

[Bonjoy]

TBH I thought it was harder than Groove Terminator which got V11 but didn't think it would get 8A in the UK so gave it V10 instead. These days if I climbed a prob abroad I'd grade it in line with the rest of the crag rather than the other side of the world. Might have got a repeat if it wasn't a sandbag. 
Yeah it was supposed to be Steal.