[petejh]

Anybody tried these yet? Thinking of trying a pair of futura's but heard the Genius should be available shortly.

[the_dom]

Anybody tried these yet? Thinking of trying a pair of futura's but heard the Genius should be available shortly.

They've got them at some of the shops in Font - they look very good (caveat: I am a Speedster fan). I'd consider them preferable to the Futura's because I hate the design of the Futura / Solution strap, which always seems to wear through / break too early.

One of the locals here that I spoke to was raving about them too.

[Duma]

Am I wrong in thinking them a lace up futura?

[the_dom]

Am I wrong in thinking them a lace up futura?

No, that's pretty much what they are

[Muenchener]

heard the Genius should be available shortly.

Already seen them in shops over here.

[finbarrr]

Anybody tried these yet? Thinking of trying a pair of futura's but heard the Genius should be available shortly.

They've got them at some of the shops in Font - they look very good (caveat: I am a Speedster fan). I'd consider them preferable to the Futura's because I hate the design of the Futura / Solution strap, which always seems to wear through / break too early.

One of the locals here that I spoke to was raving about them too.

i love the testa rossa's (testa's rossa?) but generally boulder in solutions because the laces on the testarossas break if you drag the top of your foot along the wall. not to mention toe hooks or cams. the solutions at least give me a few tries and the chance to repair with glue.
i tried on the genius in paris, and apart from them being very comfy, the laces looks even thinner than on the testarossas. and as i'm not climbing many routes at the moment, i left them in the store.

[Muenchener]

i love the testa rossa's (testa's rossa?)

testirossi?

Nibs?

[tomtom]

i love the testa rossa's (testa's rossa?)

testirossi?

Nibs?

Multi-testarossi?

[Nibile]

Ahahahahahah!
It's Testarossa, a name that comes from a series of Ferrari cars, as you all know, dating back to the 1957 model. Here is a fine example. Or two?

[Muenchener]

We know that already. The altogether boring question, though, is what is the grammatically correct plural?

[tomtom]

[Nibile]

We know that already. The altogether boring question, though, is what is the grammatically correct plural?

Ah, sorry about the misunderstanding.
To be honest, the plural of composite nouns is a quite tricky subject in Italian...
In this case though, given that it acts as a proper name, I'd say that it doesn't change in plural.

[cha1n]

If these are just a lace-up futura then the only reason you'd choose them over the futura is for the adjust-ability.

Have you used the 'no edge' shoes before? If not, I'd suggest the speedster as a good introduction. The speedster is stiffer than the futura (so i'm told) which would perhaps mean that you could use them on quite vertical climbing too. Plus, they're cheaper so you won't have lost out on as much money if you don't get on with them (that was my logic, think I got them for £65-70 in the end).

What sort of terrain were you thinking of using them on? They are excellent for smearing straight out of the box and I've barely used another shoe on grit this year. Once things get quite overhanging I prefer a proper edge for getting into the back of crimps (the toebox is quite bulky and rounded and doesn't get into the back of small holds as well as something like a dragon). I'd imagine they'd be fine on large holds though.

I certainly keep them in my climbing back most of the time now but tend to use something a bit stiffer and with an edge for limestone.

[Stubbs]

Pete some more pics of them from your favourite J Star, the heel box looks weird!
http://www.jstarinorbit.com/p/gear-review.html

[SA Chris]

The next model to be released after the Genius will be called the Fuckwit, especially for those who are technically inept in footwork. Basically a pair of trainers.

[turnipturned]

What sort of terrain were you thinking of using them on? They are excellent for smearing straight out of the box and I've barely used another shoe on grit this year. Once things get quite overhanging I prefer a proper edge for getting into the back of crimps (the toebox is quite bulky and rounded and doesn't get into the back of small holds as well as something like a dragon). I'd imagine they'd be fine on large holds though.

I certainly keep them in my climbing back most of the time now but tend to use something a bit stiffer and with an edge for limestone.

I think the futuras are really good on the grit and in the wall. I think the heels are pretty good for compression climbing. If you have never had 'no edge' technology they are a bit weird to start off with. They are also well comfy even when super tight!

[tomtom]

Surely the fuckwit would be designed for crack climbers..?

[ghisino]

Have you used the 'no edge' shoes before? If not, I'd suggest the speedster as a good introduction. The speedster is stiffer than the futura (so i'm told) which would perhaps mean that you could use them on quite vertical climbing too.

quite the opposite.

futura stiffer than speedster, and better allrounder for most people.

[cha1n]

That's interesting to know, thanks. Someone who has both shoes told me that the Speedster was stiffer. The Futura is built on a slightly less aggressive last than the Speedster, so hopefully will be a bit more comfortable. I'll have to try some Futuras on next time I'm somewhere that stocks them.

[ghisino]

concerning the genius, just by looking at them i suspect that it puts your big toe in a slightly more bent position compared to the futura.

can people who have tried both confirm?


(ah this is also the second big difference between speedsters and futuras. speedsters have a higher volume in the front, your toes get more bent and they have a more rounded tip. Absolutely horrible in pockets. The futuras are narrower/flatter toes, pointier, and work decently in pockets)

[cha1n]

Do you know how the futura sizes compared to the speedster? Thanks.

[ghisino]

That's interesting to know, thanks. Someone who has both shoes told me that the Speedster was stiffer. The Futura is built on a slightly less aggressive last than the Speedster, so hopefully will be a bit more comfortable. I'll have to try some Futuras on next time I'm somewhere that stocks them.

well, the speedster has a more agressive last and tensioning for sure, but it's also more flexible - the futura has some kind of midsole, the speedster doesn't.

for me, having had both shoes, it translates in the speedster being much more "one trick pony" than the futura. Wonderful shoe at its own things: font slabs, indoor, tufas and roof/cave "hooks and scums everywhere" extravaganza. But would never consider it as a main shoe/allrounder.
The futura has the same character, but in my experience it is much less shit where the speedster didn't shine (pockets, board-like steep climbs with small positive holds).

oh, in futuras i'm half size up from speedsters.

[cha1n]

Cool, just ordered some futuras, gotta be worth a punt as I love the Speedster and the only thing stopping me from using them on the lime is that they are quite soft (only £80 on trekinn).

I ordered the same size as my Speedsters though as I didn't get my Speedster's obscenely tight.

[petejh]

I'm thinking of trying the Genius for limestone UK and abroad, and all-round trad. So a pretty mixed bag! Was wondering how they'd be for Melanchollie - slightly overhanging tiny holds.

[lmarenzi]

Got a pair last week and really looking forward to trying them.

But "Genius" has got to be the most retarded name for a shoe in the entire history of climbing!