[cha1n]

Well the Futuras have just arrived. Firstly, I can confirm that they are not noticeably stiffer than the Speedsters (they actually feel softer out of the box if anything, which is what someone I know told me), so a bit of a fail on that part.

Having said that, I don't mind having what is essentially a pair of Speedsters with a more secure heel as they were my main shoe on grit this year but if you're looking for something fundamentally different to the speedster then perhaps the Genius is it? The person I know with the Genius' said that they size up half size smaller than the futuras and feel very similar to the futuras with perhaps a tiny bit more toepower. I get the feeling that these are all going to be pretty soft shoes.

[cha1n]

Also, regarding size differences, the futuras feel a touch tighter than the speedsters (I sized them the same) and whilst the heel will probably be a tad more secure than the speedsters, the fit of the heel isn't as good on the futuras (more dead space). Gut feeling is that the speedster is a better shoe but I'll hold back my official stance until I've tried these out for a while.

[petejh]

Got a pair of Genius's on Saturday and wore them at LPT on Sunday. Amazing! Felt extremely sensitive, like the big toe was unenclosed. Don't think I've ever worn a pair of shoes this sensitive. Got them in 39, smallest shoes I've ever worn. Street shoe 42, my Miura VS's are tight at 39.5. Think I'm a fan..

[Stu Littlefair]

Glad to hear it. I cannot get them in my size at the moment, so will have to live vicariously through your inevitable redpoint

[Duma]

Given you only managed 4 moves on Sunday, it seems a bit early to judge... ;-)

[petejh]

Ha! Yeah I know, it wasn't the most comprehensive test run. (some more moves during the warm-up). Cheers Stu, but might bump into you at Malham if this skin tear can't take the punishment..

[standard]

Can't believe noone's mentioned that they look absolutely gash. Worse than solutions! For that reason, I will be sticking with muira laces.

[bigtuboflard]

Can't believe noone's mentioned that they look absolutely gash. Worse than solutions! For that reason, I will be sticking with muira laces.

I mistook them for a hotdog covered with mustard in a photo on twitter the first time I saw a pair. Not a look I tend to go for in my rock shoes. Having said that I wear Boreals so I am probably not one to pass comment.

[Paul B]

Ha! Yeah I know, it wasn't the most comprehensive test run. (some more moves during the warm-up). Cheers Stu, but might bump into you at Malham if this skin tear can't take the punishment..

How stiff are they then (from a Blanco fan)? I couldn't imagine wanting to climb any of the Malham routes in Futura's as Stu suggests; I thought they were terrible for anything other than pointing your foot at a smeary blob (admittedly only tested indoors), on edges they just didn't perform at all.

[TobyD]

Ha! Yeah I know, it wasn't the most comprehensive test run. (some more moves during the warm-up). Cheers Stu, but might bump into you at Malham if this skin tear can't take the punishment..

How stiff are they then (from a Blanco fan)? I couldn't imagine wanting to climb any of the Malham routes in Futura's as Stu suggests; I thought they were terrible for anything other than pointing your foot at a smeary blob (admittedly only tested indoors), on edges they just didn't perform at all.

I've also only climbed in Futuras inside, but i thought they'd feel great on uk limestone. I do favour sensitive flexible boots worn tight though, and never really liked blancos anyway. All scarpas, for example, feel really wooden to climb in to me.

[petejh]

How stiff are they then (from a Blanco fan)? I couldn't imagine wanting to climb any of the Malham routes in Futura's as Stu suggests; I thought they were terrible for anything other than pointing your foot at a smeary blob (admittedly only tested indoors), on edges they just didn't perform at all.

Yeah they're not stiff at all but very down-turned and I think/hope they'll keep their down-turned shape quite well due to the yellow rubber band thingy PPP. But I've never enjoyed climbing in stiff shoes - still got a pair of unbroken-in Blancos that are about 4 years old. You're probably not going to like them if you like clogs.

[shark]

Gresh and James Pearson promoting the Genius



http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/la-sportiva-genius-rock-shoes

[T_B]

Anyone used the new Scarpa Furias? I wonder where they sit alongside the Instinct VS and Booster S? Hopefully somewhere in the middle. I like the comfort of the Booster S but they're too soft for me for steep bouldering.

[abarro81]

Not used them but Newman has, he said they're softer than the Booster S IIRC.

[T_B]

Urrghh. How can they be softer

[Wood FT]

I saw a video where someone just rolled one up in their hand, ridiculously soft, just a rubber jonny sock

[Nibile]

I still can't see how the no edge sole could perform better than a traditional one on steep terrain, on which you often have to hook the foothold to keep you in and on which the angles are crucial.
I've experimented the Speedster on steep gym walls and on my board and they were a notch worse than Solutions, Dragons, etc.
That said, and given that I'm heading to the Dolomites this afternoon, staying at a friend's house 15 minutes from LaSportiva factory, I'll probably be back on Monday with at least two pairs of them.

[Stu Littlefair]

I think that's right Nibs,

for that ultra-steep, toeing in kind of move, no-edge shoes will be slightly worse. Worse also in slots or pockets as the toe box is rounder.

But in my experience better almost everywhere else.

[cha1n]

I picked up a pair of the furias at a demo at the works and they were very soft, probably softer than teams. They seemed like a waste of time to be honest. Isn't the instinct lace-up a bit softer than the instinct vs?

The no-edge shoes are by far the best shoes for smearing and face climbing on indoor style holes regardless of size. I don't think I'll be using mine again until I'm back on grit/sandstone though. I've been really impressed by the Scarpa Instinct VS and I find myself reaching for my dragons less and less.

[T_B]

Yes Instinct lace slightly softer than VS hence I love them (on last pair)

[cha1n]

Yes Instinct lace slightly softer than VS hence I love them (on last pair)

Ah thought so. You know they are still readily available if you use one of the foreign shops?

[abarro81]

Yeah, Scarpa still make them AFAIK, it's just that Mountain Boot Co don't import them anymore (apparently not enough people buy lace-ups to make it worth importing many of them).
For me the Booster S is ace on steep Euro style sport and most bouldering but instinct lace is still king on vert edges

[petejh]

Don't buy the Sportiva Genius everyone, they're rubbish. I mean no edges, c'mon  you know better than that and you don't need to try a pair of these out to know that climbing shoes need good edges ....

Nothing to see move along 

[TobyD]

Don't buy the Sportiva Genius everyone, they're rubbish. I mean no edges, c'mon  you know better than that and you don't need to try a pair of these out to know that climbing shoes need good edges ....

Nothing to see move along 

I heard that they make 8b feel like VD. 

That's very difficult, as opposed to venereal disease, incidentally. Nothing worse than an ambiguous acronym.

[tim palmer]

Yes Instinct lace slightly softer than VS hence I love them (on last pair)

Ah thought so. You know they are still readily available if you use one of the foreign shops?

I find the instinct lace much stiffer than the vs,  I currently have pair of both