Quote from: SA Chris on December 18, 2015, 11:38:52 amPity you didn't make it up to Aberdeen for comp last Sat, was good vibe and good probs.i barely made it out of bedglad it went well. hopefully next year if they run the series again I'll be able to take part.
Pity you didn't make it up to Aberdeen for comp last Sat, was good vibe and good probs.
1. Burn off Will Hunt consistentlyThis would have been a complete success, if only Will hadn't snatched a last minute victory from the Jaws of defeat. The roaches trip with my old nemesis and downfall, 'Spring Slab'. For three consecutive years Will has left me on the boggy floor, unable to get past the second move...
Brimham - 31st Jan - Ben (Marginal) IndecisiveI think you did Rachel's Box Variation which I failed on, though only because I tore a fingertip off *sulk*
Fun stuff:- Climb again, in a sustainable way. Tick. And snuck in trips to Font and Switzerland.- Surf more new spots and continue to improve as a surfer. Semi-tick. Improved as a surfer, but was quite limited in where I surfed. - Get the weight back down to climbing fighting fitness Tick.- 2 x BW deadlift Tick.Serious stuff:- Make a call on what to do with my life Work in progress.- Normalise working situation Work in progress.- Spend more time with my friends Could have done more.
I had a pretty productive year this year, which hopefully sets me up for next year. A few unfinished bit from this year and slightly more focus on specifics than last year.1. Start running again. Min 5km run once a week. Failing on the regularity, in part due to work commitments in the Autumn, but putting the miles in a feeling good about it, which is the main thing :-)2. Get on some of the big E5s in Pembroke, the Pass, Gogarth. E.g. Right Wall, Headhunter, Positron. Got on Headhunter, was greasy, got scared. The was basically injured for the rest of the year.3. Complete MA in Gritology: Master's Edge, Masters of the Universe, Master of Reality. Not going to happen this year.4. The big (and possibly unrealistic) one: Point Blank. Definitely feasible, and I think if I wasn't curtailed by injury I'd have managed this.5. Make good use of summer holiday for trip out of Europe. Spent summer in Canada, with 10 days in Squamish. Did the Grand Wall and a bunch of classic cracks
Climbing-wise 2014 was great, seeing me match or better myself in every climbing discipline. tradOn sight more E5s. Simple really, keep getting on ace three star routes when you feel good and just have an honest go. it's not the onsight as a finished product that matters, but the onsight as a process.Really psyched about this year's trad efforts in the E5 department; would have been happy doing one or two considering last year i did my first but ended up doing 6: Warpath, Killerkranky, Ships that pass in the night, Right Wall (YYFY), Wall of Prey, and Ordinary Route (I led Positron headwall - YYFY) - prob would have done more had I not fractured my heel!Go to fairhead and the burren. had an amazing week trip to fairhead climbing loads of amazing routes. highlights being Wall of Prey E5 (so nearly fell off!) Hallowe'en E4 (amazing, cold, pretty close to falling off) Promised Land E4/5 (Amazing, exited the groove to find it was raining, so nearly fell off the arete-y move)didnt make the burren but ill defo head there in the future!Tick more extreme rock routes (currently on 22) I have done a couple this year so not all out fail. not overly bovved thoughSome grit/more peak E4s. Barely tradded in't peak this year - tried Usurper at Curbar but got well spanked. sport:Red point 7c. Not sure if I'll be able to afford a Spain trip early this year and not sure I can bear uk sport just yet when the trad is so much better. Surprising! More surprising is that despite going to Europe I climbed them all in the UK and am semi converted to UK sport. managed 4: Cordless Madness (tenuous?), Sturgeon in the cupboard (?), Cry of Despair (took me ages (6 sessions) desperate felt all of 7c maybe + to me) and Stone the Loach (in a session felt pretty steady)also nearly climbed herbie 7c+ in a session but never went back will use it as early season fitness gainer.Flash 7b more likely in Spain than UK! Again surprising - managed to onsight two in Gorge du Tarn - both soft though the big corner crack one does get 7b+ in the local guide. also flashed a softie in cheedale.boulderhoggingContinue highball psyche! Finish off narcissus, do more cool ones! havent been back for Narcissus. wah! have done some cool highballs though - think I did White Wand after posting this before end of t'year? Climb some 7A+s: help the young at stanage, demon wall roof at almscliff, Red Baron at Shipley? Many more I'm sure.Haha after posting this I had an ace day at Shipley climbing Parker 7A/+, Phil's Wall 7A+ and Red Baron 7A+ plus did a few more after that. this winter has been a total shit-show for me thoughLife-wise 2014 was a bit more all over the place and I didn't achieve what I aimed for (in fact Those two aspects of my life are now gone). This makes it more difficult for me to create meaningful goals.Try and gain some direction in life apart from climbing. have a salaried job??Become comfortable in my singledom. flipping wimmin. have achieved this zen state on occasions but also not at times. seeing a girl currently after a bit of a head-stress with another. however current girl goes to Oz in the new year... think Im comfortable enough now that I'll be fine Be less of a messy bastard in the house. - I cant really comment on this but think I got better plus live somehwere else noweat more healthily yeahBe a good person. i hope so!Here's hoping for a good 2015 for everyone!
1. Get a proper training regime which will help to avoid injury, perhaps with a coach (don't get injured) Got a training plan, which I completed, but was repeatedly held back by a dormant bicep tendon injury. Got another training plan which aims to strengthen my antagonist muscles, and I have been sticking to this pretty well.As I haven't been doing the proper training plan, I've ended up training sporadically, doing a mix of endurance, fingerboarding and power endurance stuff. 2. Onsight more e5s (and e4s) A decent amount of onsights this year, highlights being Right Wall (flash) and Pebble Mill 3. Onsight/do ground up some e6s didn't try4. Headpoint more e7s Instead of headpointing a bold e7, I headpointed a physically difficult e6 which was probably about 7b sport (around my current limit) - was really pleased with this 5. Climb 7c sport fail... tried one, got all the moves, then someone pulled a crucial hold off. I was keen for this goal, and still am... I need to find more 7cs to try and get on with it6. Onsight at least 7a+ in Chulilla in feb. onsighted 7b. winner7. Do a 7b+ in Chulilla poor goal for an onsighting trip!8. Get back in to bouldering and do more 7bs. did one more 7b.... haven't done much bouldering this year (a win in itself) as I've been on the sharp end so much 9. a 7b+
0. Do lots of grit classics over the winter. (Careless torque, Renegade master, Super bloc, Joker,) flash some more grit 7Cflashed/on-sighted a load in albarracin which is sandstone but not grit so putting it as yellow. still got time this year to do careless torque hopfully1. climb mecca extension in spring.ended up just doing as many good routes as possible in the spring to build fitness for this, please to do it though as was a real mental block for falling off.2. boulder short (less than 10 moves) 8A+ on the lime after doing 1.fail, but I did do fat lip from a move in which is probably 8A+ so defiantly feeling stronger3. climb evolution in autumn.pfft.4. boulder 8B (Keen Roof)did zarzaparilla which gets 8B....but its not, its 8A.5. get on hubblecame really close to completing this goal yesterday but the weather was just to demoralising to get the ropes out, oh well.6. fix my elbowsFound out just doing fucking loads of push ups and not having massivly big days out makes them not hurt so sort of fixed.
Quote from: haydn jones on December 06, 2014, 03:56:32 pm0. Do lots of grit classics over the winter. (Careless torque, Renegade master, Super bloc, Joker,) flash some more grit 7Cflashed/on-sighted a load in albarracin which is sandstone but not grit so putting it as yellow. still got time this year to do careless torque hopfully1. climb mecca extension in spring.ended up just doing as many good routes as possible in the spring to build fitness for this, please to do it though as was a real mental block for falling off.2. boulder short (less than 10 moves) 8A+ on the lime after doing 1.fail, but I did do fat lip from a move in which is probably 8A+ so defiantly feeling stronger3. climb evolution in autumn.pfft.4. boulder 8B (Keen Roof)did zarzaparilla which gets 8B....but its not, its 8A.5. get on hubblecame really close to completing this goal yesterday but the weather was just to demoralising to get the ropes out, oh well.6. fix my elbowsFound out just doing fucking loads of push ups and not having massivly big days out makes them not hurt so sort of fixed.Looking at the all the red it looks as though I've had a bad year, but its more that I changed my plans and I've actually had an absolute blast of a year, highlights being mecca ext, body snatchers (and learning to drill along with it), and a month of just climbing in Albarracin.
Godzilla, Biblins CavePfft, didnt even try it.Brean ToppingHad a session, decided it was sharp and about as inspiring as a poke in the eye with a sharp stick.ShadowWalker, cheddarDidnt even get on it.Get board strongI guess so. Had a good board season Jan - March and it seemed to pay off in font.Try and not get injured from sitting at a desk all dayUsual tweaks and twinges but no show stoppers so taking the tick.Save enough money to live on the road for a year (living meaning something marginally above abject poverty)Late season car troubles aren't helping, but got a little money saved up.Mark of the Beast and other cool dws stuffTechnically a fail, but had a really cool DWS season and did lots of other stuff (flash of barrel traverse, some fun splashdowns on Adrenochrome, falling off the last move of Wizard of Oz) so taking the tick.various party tricksNein.
Carry on getting on the trad routes I get psyched for.
Do a real first 7C.
Sort out shoulder/neck ballache.
French 8a - not done/not tried something inspiring in the mountains/on trad gear - not done/not tried
1. Don't get injured.2. Old-skool circuiting and easy high circuits I've never done:-Yellow - Justice de ChambergeotYellow/orange - Pignon poteauOrange - Grande montagneOrange - Gros sablonsYellow/orange - Envers d'apremontYellow/green/orange - ApremontOrange - Dame Jouanne2. Get the biggest, spongiest mat for my birthday3. A few camping trips in the forest. Very hopefully a visit to the U.K.
Complete my Diamond Project in Summer.
Tick these three classic 7b+'s:Grand CanyonOceon of EmotionThe Wall of Evening Light
Sport Climbing: Redpoint 7c and Onsight more 7a/7a+'s
Bouldering: Tick a 7B and do lot's of 7A's in the mountains.
On-sight an E4 and do more classic trad/mountain routes.
1. V8.
2. DWS project.
3. Drop weight/get fitter.
4. Spend some decent time in the Grampians.
3. Drop weight/get fitter. Lost about 14kg this year. Helped me float up a load of problems... Still got more to lose
Climbing - shifting back to chuffing this year after a 10 year hiatus.1. To Bolt or Not to Be - 5.14a - FAIL - Didn't even get on it.2. Climb remaining local 5.13a or harder routes. 7 of 10 currently done. - FAIL - Didn't even get on any of them.3. Climb 2 out of 5 of my existing sport projects , and 1 of my 2 existing trad projects. - Mostly Fail - Did one of the sport routes in April, worked two more of them and sorted all of the moves, which was a good step forward ad they are harder than I thought they'd be-both in the 8b+/8c range. Gave up on 1 of the trad routes as on return it was unworthy (and total shite gear which means it needs bolts and therefore no longer trad), didn't get to the second one. 4. Bolt and climb four new 8th grade routes in AK. Currently there are only 4. - FAIL - Rebolted an old route that was named and graded at 12b, but is certainly in the 5.14 range instead. Life:Full on into business start up. Goal is revenue of 150K for 2015. BIG GOAL... - mostly success - didn't quite hit the 150K, but did quit the day job and am now fully self employed, and have contracts in place for HUGE year next year.