[will_s87]

Never ventured furthered north than Stanage. Would anyone be kind (bold) enough to propose a round up of the best problems in the Yorkshire area from 6c-7b and 7b - 8a?

[205Chris]

Never ventured furthered north than Stanage. Would anyone be kind (bold) enough to propose a round up of the best problems in the Yorkshire area from 6c-7b and 7b - 8a?

Trying to narrow down the quality in Yorkshire to 10 problems is a hard task. Here are some ideas in the 6c-7b at a variety of crags:

6c - Pebble Wall, Almscliff
6c - Naked Edge, Simon's Seat (highball)
6c+ - Desert Island Arete, Earl
7a - Whisky Galore, Brimham
7a - Barry Kingsize, Crookrise
7a - A little sparkle, Guisecliff
7b - Ben's Groove, Caley
7b - Trust, Guisecliff
7b - Mcnab, Lord's Seat
7b+ - The Keel, Almscliff

Not really qualified to suggest a list for the higher grades, but Heaven in Your Hands (7c/+) at Brandrith is a must.

[account_inactive]

I'd scratch the Keel from that list.....but at least you got the grade right

[tim palmer]

Yorkshire 7b-8a at each grade (slashes to get more in): i honestly don't think a single problem in the peak would make it into this list except maybe Suavito
7b- McNab, Lord's Seat
7b+-Crystal method, Caley
7b+/c- hunter's roof, Hunter's stones
7c-Jess's roof, Almscliff
7c/+- heaven in your hands, Brandrith
7c+-Ben's groove ss, Caley
8a- chiasmata, Almscliff

[nathanie1]

My personal favourites are

Syrett's roof 6C+ - Almscliff
Not my stile 6C+ - Caley
Longbow 6C+/7A? - Brimham
Whisky Galore 7A - Brimham
Horn Rib 7A+ - Caley
Baby Spice 7A+ - Ilkley
The Grouch 7B - Brimham

Ben's grove 7B - Caley
Mcnab 7B - Lord's seat
Ring piece 7B - Ilkley

The last three I have tried but not quite ticked, so I can only vouch for the first 3/4 of the problems...   

If you browse vimeo and youtube you'll find videos for all of them.

[sxrxg]

I know you said Yorkshire however don't forget Lancashire, Thorn Crag has some great problems in a lovely setting on some amazing fine grained gritstone.

I can highly recommend:

Burnt Heather - 6b
Elemental - 6c
And for my next trick - 7a
Mothership Reconnection - 7a+
Bad moon rising - 7b+

[r-man]

And some more from Lancs... Here's a list of some of the best taller lines, as they tend to be the ones that stick in the mind. (No, I haven't done them all.)

6B+ - Flak - Cow's Mouth
6C+ - Future Light Cone - Bull Stones
7A - Nyan Cat - Cow's Mouth
7A - Laissez Faire Stare - Lester Mill
7A+ - Big Marine - Longridge
7A+ - Faith And Energy - Ousel's Nest
7B - Rodin's Requiem - Wilton 3
7B+ - Private Press - Thorn Crag
7C - Magic Beans - Troy
7C+ - Return Of The Fly - Thorn Crag
7C+ - Information Highway Revisited - Lower Montcliffe

[tomtom]

From Godscliff, I would throw in:

Sloper Patrol 6C+ (not if its warm..)
Dreamland 7A+ (probably my favourite problem of the grade - always makes me smile)
Underhand 7B+
The Keel 7C
and controversially, I'm going to throw in Steves Wall (7A+) - its on its own and rarely visited but is a really fun problem...

Slipstones has some amazing lines too... the two below are brilliant even though I've only come desparately close to nearly doing them!

Sulky Little Boys 7A+
Lay-By Arete 7B+

[Stubbs]

Tom we are after 3* classics here not your almscliff circuit! I think a good way to think about it is would it be worth an hour's walk in for the problem? I'd say all of the problems on Palmer's list stand up to that test but I can't say the same about yours!

From one crag (Crookrise) I'd add
Karajala 6c/7a
Pixie Tits 7b +
Rons Crack 2 7a+
Jason's roof 7c+

[tomtom]

Tom we are after 3* classics here not your almscliff circuit! I think a good way to think about it is would it be worth an hour's walk in for the problem? I'd say all of the problems on Palmer's list stand up to that test but I can't say the same about yours!

I do tend to have a narrow focus

[account_inactive]

And some more from Lancs... Here's a list of some of the best taller lines, as they tend to be the ones that stick in the mind. (No, I haven't done them all.)

6B+ - Flak - Cow's Mouth
6C+ - Future Light Cone - Bull Stones
7A - Nyan Cat - Cow's Mouth
7A - Laissez Faire Stare - Lester Mill
7A+ - Big Marine - Longridge
7A+ - Faith And Energy - Ousel's Nest
7B - Rodin's Requiem - Wilton 3
7B+ - Private Press - Thorn Crag
7C - Magic Beans - Troy
7C+ - Return Of The Fly - Thorn Crag
7C+ - Information Highway Revisited - Lower Montcliffe

Honestly! What a crock of shit.

[tomtom]

Yes... though Mothership Reconnection at Thorn is good... (7A+)

I'd walk 45 min for that one Stubbs

[Sloper]

From Godscliff, I would throw in:

Sloper Patrol 6C+ (not if its warm..)
Dreamland 7A+ (probably my favourite problem of the grade - always makes me smile)
Underhand 7B+
The Keel 7C
and controversially, I'm going to throw in Steves Wall (7A+) - its on its own and rarely visited but is a really fun problem...

Slipstones has some amazing lines too... the two below are brilliant even though I've only come desparately close to nearly doing them!

Sulky Little Boys 7A+
Lay-By Arete 7B+

Dreamland is ace but I think it's a lot harder than 7a+ if you're my height.

I'd add

Anchor Roof and Pair in a Cubicle at Brimham (both around 7a depending on technique) and Ripper at Slipstones,

[tommytwotone]

Tom we are after 3* classics here not your almscliff circuit a load of stuff at the Cliff which is soft at the grade if you're tall!

Fixed that for you! 

[tomtom]

Tom we are after 3* classics here not your almscliff circuit a load of stuff at the Cliff which is soft at the grade if you're tall!

Fixed that for you! 

Bloody hobbits... back in yer box frodo

[r-man]

And some more from Lancs... Here's a list of some of the best taller lines, as they tend to be the ones that stick in the mind. (No, I haven't done them all.)

6B+ - Flak - Cow's Mouth
6C+ - Future Light Cone - Bull Stones
7A - Nyan Cat - Cow's Mouth
7A - Laissez Faire Stare - Lester Mill
7A+ - Big Marine - Longridge
7A+ - Faith And Energy - Ousel's Nest
7B - Rodin's Requiem - Wilton 3
7B+ - Private Press - Thorn Crag
7C - Magic Beans - Troy
7C+ - Return Of The Fly - Thorn Crag
7C+ - Information Highway Revisited - Lower Montcliffe

Honestly! What a crock of shit.

I'm intrigued. Do you even know what half of those problems are or are you just dismissing the whole list because some of them are in quarries?

Do elaborate...

[tim palmer]

And some more from Lancs... Here's a list of some of the best taller lines, as they tend to be the ones that stick in the mind. (No, I haven't done them all.)

6B+ - Flak - Cow's Mouth
6C+ - Future Light Cone - Bull Stones
7A - Nyan Cat - Cow's Mouth
7A - Laissez Faire Stare - Lester Mill
7A+ - Big Marine - Longridge
7A+ - Faith And Energy - Ousel's Nest
7B - Rodin's Requiem - Wilton 3
7B+ - Private Press - Thorn Crag
7C - Magic Beans - Troy
7C+ - Return Of The Fly - Thorn Crag
7C+ - Information Highway Revisited - Lower Montcliffe

Honestly! What a crock of shit.

I'm intrigued. Do you even know what half of those problems are or are you just dismissing the whole list because some of them are in quarries?

Do elaborate...

I thought thorn crag was amazing, bad moon rising was really good but……..

I have to agree with Dylan on Longridge.  I would be very disappointed if I turned up at longridge expecting quality climbing.  It is ok, worth a look if you were in the area but I would not travel past other crags to go to it.

   

[nai]

Dreamland 7A+ (probably my favourite problem of the grade - always makes me smile)

Dreamland is ace

  that's twice in two days I've what-the-fucked a drink all over the screen.

[r-man]

I have to agree with Dylan on Longridge.  I would be very disappointed if I turned up at longridge expecting quality climbing.  It is ok, worth a look if you were in the area but I would not travel past other crags to go to it.

I reckon if 7A+ is your level, Big Marine is a top tick. Powerful and steep, with nice holds and a slightly scary finishing move. It's a path if you find steep climbing easy, but I think that just means it's best enjoyed if you find it hard! I think Big Marine is better than stuff like Mothership, which seems to get a few votes. But of course Mothership looks nicer and has a view.

I know the quarries divide opinion. I could have done a list just on natural grit but personally I think some of the quarry problems are amazing. Just recently I did Faith And Energy at Ousel's for the first time - gets E5 as a route but if you highball it to the jug at 5m the climbing is ace - sequency moves on underclings and sidepulls, all slightly overhanging. I love the movement on natural grit, but some of the quarried stuff is unique.

I realise most people don't want a day out in a quarry, but I'm going to keep banging the drum because I love them. This was a thread about top problems rather than top venues - for great day out in Lancashire the moors are where it's at: Thorn Crag, Stony Edge, Blackstone Edge, Dove Lowe, Bull Stones etc.

[tomtom]

Dreamland 7A+ (probably my favourite problem of the grade - always makes me smile)

Dreamland is ace

  that's twice in two days I've what-the-fucked a drink all over the screen.

Go back to your knitting at the Cornice...

[nai]

A bit of needle is what this thread needed. I agree with r-man that Big Marine is a pearl
 Definitely wouldn't want to drop the top move now the fence is there though.

[will_s87]

This forum is awesome, thank you all so much for contributing! 

[Will Hunt]

McNab - Lord's Seat - do venues get much better than this?

Underhand - Cliff - A red letter day in anyone's book, surely?

Ringpiece - Ilkley - Not a great setting but VERY CLASSIC

Pistol Whip - Cliff - surprised nobody has mentioned this yet

Hen Arete - Henstones - the rock here is AMAZING. This problem is AMAZING.

Northern Rail - Hebden Gill - Really sticking my neck out here as this is my problem. Personally I think it is very very good indeed but I'll be happy to concede this is somebody gets off their arse and repeats it and says it's not good. It's obviously not classic in the way that the above problems are but it's still good. Pic and vid here (shameless plug):
The Rail Boulder by Hunta_998, on Flickr




And just to be controversial, these are problems I don't think should be on the list!
Barry Kingsize - Just your bog standard worn out 7A. Didn't think it was anything special!
Karjala - A great problem, one of the best in the county at its grade which, in the opinion of me and the two others I did it with, is 6B+ going on 6C.
Hunter's Roof - Sour grapes. This has ripped the left heel off not one but TWO pairs of shoes. It is also a complete and utter skin ripper (we're talking x rated, b movie gore style finger ripping here)  p.s I haven't ticked it!

[tim palmer]

Underhand - Cliff - A red letter day in anyone's book, surely?

Pistol Whip - Cliff - surprised nobody has mentioned this

neither is 3star in my opinion
pistol whip is fun and a bit spicy but height dependent and a bit eliminate
Underhand is nice and basic but a bum grovel

both are still a million miles better than big Marine I will grant you

[tomtom]

Underhand is nice and basic but a bum grovel

Only if you fall off