[HaydenCarr]

This is my first post, looking for some help finding some climbing in the moors.

Staying in a cottage in the North Yorkshire Moors next week. Mainly hoping to do some walking with the family but if it stays dry it would be great to squeeze some bouldering in. I live down south so not a lot of opportunity for outdoor climbing most of the time. I'm staying in a place called Rudland/Fadmoor, which is north of Kirkbymoorside. Anything close by? I found Ravenswick Quarry which would do for some soloing but I guess it doesn't dry out well. Anything else within a short drive? Don't know the geography of the area at all.

Thanks

[Stabbsy]

Get yourself on the BetaGuides website :-

http://www.betaguides.co.uk/bouldering-areas/england.html?area=North York Moors

From Kirkbymoorside, the easiest places will be along Blakey Ridge - somewhere like the Duck Boulders is probably 15 mins drive from Kirkbymoorside, although I don't think there's a topo until the new guide arrives (fairly imminent I think).

[slackline]

BetaGuides is a good place to see whats in the vicinity.

[Wood FT]

Lee, Franco? Time to sell the moors...

If you drive over to and up the  big road (technical term) towards Castleton you'll go past Round Crag (park in the pub I think, this might be for oak crag though I forget) which has a little bouldering and some micro routes. Further along on the right there is Stormy Hall which has some decent bouldering basically roadside. Further still is Clemmits Crags which has seen a fuck load of development but I haven't been.

Sorry can't be more help, it's a reet old wilderness.

[Dolly]

Was there a plan for a guide at some point ?

[tomtom]

I think (from Facebook posts) that Lee's guide is in progress - though towards the end of in progress

[tommytwotone]

Time to sell the moors...

No problem!

[Dolly]

Ok great

[Stabbsy]

Was there a plan for a guide at some point ?

No idea on a due date, but I have seen a couple of sample sections that a mate of mine was proof reading. It looks really well put together, there won't be any need to sell the moors once it's available...

[Johnny Brown]

From my limited knowledge I'd say you're at the wrong end of the moors - most of the climbing is around the northern end.

[sjw]

Without meaning to sound too negative, I'd say that most bouldering is fairly esoteric on the NY Moors and I'd personally prefer to hang out with the family and go walking. Don't get me wrong, it is a beautiful part of the country and I love cycling there, but I always drive an extra 50 odd miles to boulder on Yorkshire grit. Ravenswick Quarry is a fairly dank and dirty place, but as mentioned above, I'd suggest that Clemmitts in the Woods is probably your best bet. I reckon it's the best of all the bouldering areas close to where you're staying- short walk in, easy to find, good landings and lots of boulders with good problems. I'm not so sure how quickly it dries out in winter though. You can get the mini-guide off the Beta guides site for a one and a half fuckalls and it's really good, if a little out-dated by now. Hope this helps and enjoy your holiday.

[Johnny Brown]

Worth noting you are within an hour's drive of Slipstones, which is as good a bouldering venue as any in the UK, and not much farther is Brimham (good potential for a family outing), and a bit further are Almscliff Caley etc.

[Fiend]

Franco? Time to sell the moors...

The last thing the NY Moors needs is that little dweeb trying to pretend he's the first person ever to climb there and develop it and suddenly NYM is the next big thing.



Anyway, some time soloing and highballing at Scugdale is never a bad plan...

[Wood FT]

Franco? Time to sell the moors...

The last thing the NY Moors needs is that little dweeb trying to pretend he's the first person ever to climb there and develop it and suddenly NYM is the next big thing.

Much as I hate to disagree I think in this instance he'd be a big help.

Worth noting you are within an hour's drive of Slipstones, which is as good a bouldering venue as any in the UK, and not much farther is Brimham (good potential for a family outing), and a bit further are Almscliff Caley etc.

this

[HaydenCarr]

Wow! Thanks for all the replies, all very useful. Guess I might make the drive out to Slipstones or Brimham. Didn't realise how close they were. Will also check out betaguides, in case I can slip in a couple of sessions. Appreciate the point about it being esoteric, but compared to flat Hertfordshire it's all fantastic!

Thanks everyone

[Franco]

Now then,

I suppose you might have already been? But if not...

If I was going to book a family holiday to explore Moorland bouldering then fadmoor isn't a bad place at all! As already mentioned, you've got the whole of blakey ridge to explore, with thorgill and clemmitt's, freyr's, camp hill, out on the flanks. Certainly the prettiest part of the moors and there are piles of good blocks scattered around. Often pleasant in winter. Having said that,  bouldering in the Moors is a lot about just being in the place and getting satisfaction from the rock and a couple of good moves. It's not the rocklands. There aren't many problems where you get a load of really great moves on a class line. A great place to explore, like. Some of the trad routes are world class, but the best boulder problems tend to be technical wall climbs on small buttresses, rather than boulders: full breakfast (6c), the shelf at roseberry (6b), phillias fog (7a), psycho syndicate (7b) etc. etc.....

And fiend, you are a tool grande. People have climbed on the Moors for decades, bouldered for decades. A lot of it isn't recorded and a lot of it really never was found. Climbing history works on claim and counter claim. I'd love to hear of people having climbed on the moors (particularly in the east and south) in the past. If you're one of these types who likes to climb new routes and then not record them, then fine, but you can't then get all smug and superior when some excitable climber claims them years later. New routing is brilliant, exploring the boulders of the Moors is class, if you'd prefer to be grumpy then fine!

Lee's guide should win awards when it comes out. He must have put about 5,000 hours into it. The culture is just different - I think the vast majority of the Moors scene (about 8 people) would be sectioned if they were ever examined. Such obsession and energy produces wonders. As Lee always says "They'll come!"

[HaydenCarr]

Thanks Franco. I was there last week so I didn't get chance to try the local delights (other than the best pint of Theakstons I've ever had!). Hopefully I'll get another chance. I should say that I'm really impressed by the effort that's clearly gone in to the topos on betaguides. Credit where credit's due

For now I'll have to make do with weekly trips to the Milton Keynes wall and dreaming of the next time I can escape to somewhere bumpier than a pancake.

Andy

[Jack.G]

The missus has just booked a cottage close to Robin Hood's Bay for a week in July after deciding to have a change from Wales this year   there goes my Ysgo hit-list

Never looked into the Yorks Moors before, after a bit of digging around its looking good and I am building up some psyke to be going.

Is it the same sandstone as Northumberland?

Any recommendations at font 7a?

What's the odds on the new guide being out before summer?

[Franco]

It really should be out before summer... But you know how these things go...

From "Bay" you can walk to 3 pretty decent bouldering venues. My personal fave is "piton crack" (font 6c+) at Stoupe Brow. It's high, with a perfect landing on a proper block.

Some stuff is on UKC or climbonline, the stuff that'S not can be found in a few videos on Dave Warburton's and Mike Adam's vimeo. Probs called jurassic boulders or something like that, if not stoupe/smugglers.

Further afield there is more (both north and south along the coast). And then inland of course...

[seankenny]

Further afield there is more (both north and south along the coast). And then inland of course...

How far south does the climbing go?

[LeeRobinson]

The guide is getting proofed and edited at the moment. only 140 pages left out of 370 in all.
It should be ready around spring time.

It's nice to see there is some interest in the area

Best

Lee

[Franco]

well, to Filey. That is mainly trad and strange sport. No bouldering - but I'm sure there's stuff that could be done.


I haven't bouldered along the coast much at all. I think it's a bit like a very drawn-out and more crap st.Bees. Iron stone and sandy sandstone... (not really sandy, but not bullet hard like high moors stuff). There's like boulby, some stuff between there and whitby currently been explored, then a jump past whitby to stoupe, blea wyke, smugglers, creek point, cloughton and then a couple more venues i think. All of the bouldering is before Scarborough. Some nice-looking problems mind!


these vids might be of interest (mainly harder stuff, but shows some of the rock)




<iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/31702014" width="500" height="375" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="">Stoupe Brow (Ravensdale)</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user7044532">Mike Adams</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>


<iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/35994781" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="">East Coast Esoteria</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user7044532">Mike Adams</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

[Dolly]

Any update on the release date for the guide please ?

[Wood FT]

Not sure. Heading over to the moors this weekend so will ask the guide maker Lee and hopefully get a sneak peak.

[Dolly]

Cheers