I've heard plenty of people say they weren't pumped on a route but just didn't have anything left to make an easy move all of a sudden, but I've never thought to much into it until now.
When this happens to me, I tend to associate it with being inadequately warmed up. Perhaps you need to add one more warmup at a higher grade before getting on the project?
I always get that "I might do too much of a warm up and feel tired on my project" feeling. But I should try a longer warm up for sure.
I also get about 2 good redpoints then it's all down hill from there. I read somewhere that If your first redpoint is the best and the subsequent ones are worse then it's a lack of endurance.
My other dilemma as of late is whether to train strength or power endurance.
I know people that have got up harder climbs through being strong at bouldering and have not done a lot of sport climbing. I'm presuming due to the moves being less taxing thus not getting as pumped because the climbing is not making them cross their anaerobic threshold at all/as quick.
Makes me want to just go bouldering loads and come back stronger and see what happens. But then I read a lot about PE training and the benefits etc... I guess doing both would be the best idea...
It's difficult to decide on what to do when people around you get by purely on strength rather than specific PE training. Like what biscuit said above, burning out because the moves are hard, if I got stronger surely this wouldn't happen...
Decisions decisions decisions...
