[csl]

I'm not gonna do anything apart from write an essay to will start this off early.

Goals for May
Onsight Bloody Sunday in Pembroke this weekend - Done.
Onsight 7a at Malham - Tried to onsight Another Dead End job, its bloody nails!
Climb Space Race - was totally soaked, hopefully will be dry when i go tomorrow.
Under 18.50 5km Came 3rd in the Parkrun with 18.45. Very pleased.
New Goal - 4+ endurance sessions a week to prepare for Ceuse.

Mon - Was still in pembroke
Tues - rest
Wed - 5km Run, Leeds Wall Routes - 4x4s. Need to do harder routes, the ones i have been using are getting a bit easy.
Thur - 5km Run, Core.
Fri - Malham - Space Race Wet. warmed up on rose coronary and consenting. RP'd Puddlejumper, then did 2 sets of laps x4 on it. Tried to onsight dead end job, failed. 2 laps of consenting to finish.
Sat - Parkrun - 3rd with 18.45 - PB! Depot. Circuit board session, felt criminal being inside on a nice day, but only had two hours and am off to ceuse in 2.5 weeks.
Sun - Nothing!

[fried]

STG - Get some nice weather in the Peak next week.

Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Indoor session. Various fizzio stuff.
Wednesday - Nothing
Thursday - Very hot and humid indoor session. As above, but with more lying around.
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Garden party in Vexin, lovely weather, started by tasting 1982 Burgundy to make sure the bottles were O.K. at 10am and it was all downhill from there. Climbed a cherry tree.
Sunday - Cancel trip to forest due to unforeseen circumstances

I won't be posting next week as I'll be freezing somewhere in a field next to Sheffield.

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; don't wreck my elbow, climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, white stamina circuit - good, reversed it twice and nearly did it forward again.
T - Active rest, 10 min run - okay, awful as always.
W - Active rest, 2 x 10 min run - okay, awful as always.
T - Indoor bouldering @ TCA, easy circuit - okay, elbow a bit sore on steeper stuff.
F - Gym 2x12m armcyc, 20m reccyc, full weights - good, big session, lots to do w/out aggravating elbow.
S - Nothing.
S - Indoor routes @ Ratho, 8 steady routes - good, did plenty, got pumped, only one fall tho.

Weight - always obese at 77 kg.

Okay week, apart from not getting out. Elbow seems to stand up to wall training okay. Was sore on the rest days before the second TCA session, but less sore after that session, although I found steep stuff didn't agree with it. Rather demoralising is that after 2 days off strenuous exercise, I put 1-2 pounds back on. UGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.

Next week: more of the same and hoping the rain stops.

[tommytwotone]

Balls - missed out last week, apologies. And I did a fair bit of training too!
 
STG - Cliff tickage
LTG - Font 7b
 
M - City Bloc session, great fun and ticked a good few of the yellows, which I normally struggle with
T - Board session in evening, pretty goosed as 3rd day on
W - Nowt
T - Nowt, packing for house move at weekend
F - Running up and down stairs shifting boxes / van driving
S - See Friday x lots
S - AM completed move, then off to Mrs Z's Dad's birthday lunch
 
So not much climbing done but the impending move had to take precedence. On the plus side the new gaff has a garage so there will be a board going up in there before long!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

[Oldmanmatt]

Goals.  Keep climbing...

Been a shite couple of weeks.
Unable to remember what I did, when I did it etc.

Managed a good session of weights and core. Might have been last Sunday.

There was a session at the Quay last week (116). Warmed up bouldering then straight into routes, trying to cover 100mtr in 50min at 7a/6c+. Died completely by route 8... So managed about 85/90 mtrs.

Good session on Friday at the Quay. Three failed attempts on the new 7b... Failed to finish the grey V8... Flashed two of the new V5s (marked V5/7 ???, seems odd. V5 seems about right). Felt great.

Finally got out on Saturday and failed to tick Super trooper and Saddle tor traverse, but damn close and done at the rush as I had exactly 1hr and 15 min to play...
Had problems holding the deep lock on both (although now have alternate Beta for the traverse move that had me stumped (don't know why I didn't try matching the crimp, instead of pulling through, too much time on a wall thugging stuff over soft mats without thinking..)).

Syke at low ebb, training plans shot and yet I felt good on the rock.

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) cardio every week. Going well
- Weight consistently 68ish. Going ok
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year. UK tick, font will have to wait till Autumn now
- 5 probs at or above 7C this year. 2 down, 3 to go
- 8a this year. Need to get out more
- Fix wrist

M -
T -
W - Run, 6m, grass, flat, 52min. Slow, and it pissed down.
T - TCA eve, forgettable session, no progress on anything I've been trying. Wrist hurt.
F - Drove to Dartmoor late afternoon, eve, run, 1 hr, offroad, hilly. Awesome run, up to and across a couple of tors, down to a stream, found a pool to swim in as the moor glowed pink in the sunset. Love Dartmoor in the sunshine.
S - Burrator lakeside boulders - after warming up, failed a lot on King Of The Swingers, felt nails going to the pinch on the lip, maybe doable by going straight to the jug like leeroy. Did the 7A and 7B on the lower boulder as consolations. Wrist hurt.
S - Co-hosted a 3rd birthday party. Feels like this should be worth something...

Weight: 69-70.

Right, enough of this shit. Wrist isn't improving, I'm not climbing from now until my birthday in a month.

[shark]

Right, enough of this shit. Wrist isn't improving, I'm not climbing from now until my birthday in a month.

Are you going to get this looked at?

Some light dumbell wrist exercises might help.

[shark]

11.7-9

M.
T. Day. Weights. Eve Shed AeroCap 24/12's = 288moves
W.
T. PM Malham 18deg in sheff. Flooding and 8 deg at malham when we arrived. Oak dry  . Worked moves around 2nd and 3rd bolt only and felt strong to begin then temp/humidity rose and it all got slippy. Bit of a rubbish session objectively but pulling on the holds got psyche back. Eve Shed Practicised Oak throw move. Did some specific deadhangs and finished AeroCap 24/12's = 288moves. Contemplated third set but back was sore.
F. Eve. Wave with kids. Tried yellow and black spots again. No progress and felt busted at the end.
S. Eve Black tie do 4 course dinner late finish
S. Malham. Undercut on Oak wet and was struggling on the throw (not fully recovered from thurs and fri?) so mainly worked links on top bit. Did OK. Back weds?

Small portions this week 

[cheque]

M- Chapel Stile bouldering. Did a V4 and a V5 in a session. Pleased with that despite not really understanding V grades. Bit of Stanage soloing on drive back from Lakes.
T- Rest.
W-Indoor bouldering. Kids team session on- creates a great atmosphere but the centre is too small to allow safe/ free bouldering by non-team members during this and it was hotter than hell in there. Retreated to campus board- foot-on 1-3-5s on small and medium rungs, same with feet off on big rungs. Did some 'dishes' (it's what the kids do) when I got home.
T- Indoor routes/ bouldering. Very hot again. Worked 7b on top-rope- felt like good training. Bouldering was far less busy so a good session on that afterwards. Dishes w/ added v-sit component (ouch!) on return.
F- Rest.
S- Cratcliffe trad. Did Suicide Wall  and some easier stuff. Very keen to do the classic E2s there after watching people climb them. Dishes/ v-sits on return.
S- Chasecliffe. Finally managed Chaste- pleased to do that on my own as it has a section where someone pointing out the hidden footholds would make it a lot easier. Bolton complex w/6KG on return.

Great week.

[Nibile]

Rest week. Did nothing at all apart:
THU - bouldering. Very short session, very strong. Climbed problem, home by noon.
FRI - active rest. Climbing class.
SUN - bouldering. It was very hot and I was very tired. Opened a new nice arete problem, then nearly climbed my other project. Pulled a back muscle, slightly tweaked left middle finger. Wrist still painful when pushing, but range of motion is improving.

Need more rest for my back, wrist and finger.
Hope to get one free morning to climb my project in this coming week.

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (3 done - 2 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: 4.5m run, BM: 2 arm max hangs only using f2 on right hand to avoid dodgy finger, left hand selection of 2 finger pockets including sloped bottom pockets with front and middle two. Mono's for middle fingers. Front lever progressions. Theraband & eccentrics.
T: 4m run. BM: assisted one arm pull-ups and left arm max hangs. Front lever progressions. Theraband & eccentrics.
W: 3m run
T:  3m run, BM: 2 arm max hangs only using f2 on right hand to avoid dodgy finger, left hand selection of 2 finger pockets including sloped bottom pockets with front and middle two. Mono's for middle fingers. Personal bests on most hangs. Front lever progressions - quite close now. Theraband & eccentrics.
F: rest
S: Bouldering and easy trad at Curbar, did lots of nice easy stuff and finished with a 7A.
S: Skin and triceps sore so went to work. Theraband & eccentrics.

Great week for training and actually got out and did some climbing too!

[tomtom]

Mon: Rest and work
Tues: Work - then ferry to NL
Wed: Work, eat drink, drink and drink
Thurs: Work, ferry back to UK
Fri: Work - was hoping to get PM session in but showery..
Sat: Friend came up to visit - long walk up/around Kinder. Beer.
Sun: Recover, first symptoms of TomTomFlu...

I suspect I'll do nothing this week as well.. feeling rubbish. Arse.

[iain]

Since last post have had 10 days in Font, back last Monday. First 2 days were great, first doing circuits on whatever dry problems we could find and the second almost flashing Bizarre Bizarre (2nd go), flashing Pas Cool and finishing with a siege of Le Mouton a Six Pattes struggling to pull on the crimp in the heat. Day 3 and it became painfully obvious that during the previous days crimp pulling I'd given myself font elbow 
Rest of the holiday was mainly spent on circuits, doing therapy and an occasional 7a when I could. Last day was up at 7am to try finishing Ben's Angle, got to the crimp 6 times in good form and just couldn't generate the height to latch the top before the elbow and heat got the better of me.
Despite the frustration with the injury we had a good trip and I felt like my movement was better than it ever has been in font.

Tues - rehab
Wed - rehab
Thurs - Session in London's Arches 2, lots of problems in the V3-6ish range without hurting my elbow.
Fri - rehab
Sat - Managed to organise getting back to Fighting Torque with some great people, getting and refining beta. First time up I did the crux move first go, (previously twice in 20-30 attempts,) which was unexpected and a little intimidating as I knew I could climb the rest of the route. Had a second go further refining beta and finding a much better sequence through the groove and the redpoint was on. Rested for a couple of hours to let the sun sink a little and then did it first proper go.

Climbing's a fickle business sometimes, no structured training for months and then I do my hardest sport route in 2 days! I almost don't feel like I've earned it, but it felt really, really good clipping the chains.

Going to focus on the real weaknesses now and get away from intense finger stuff for a while to give the finger and elbow injuries a chance to recover.
That means lots of trad and sport onsighting working on the mental side as well as route reading, pacing, resting etc. I'm really looking forward to the change 

[duncan]

Sat - Managed to organise getting back to Fighting Torque with some great people, getting and refining beta. First time up I did the crux move first go, (previously twice in 20-30 attempts,) which was unexpected and a little intimidating as I knew I could climb the rest of the route. Had a second go further refining beta and finding a much better sequence through the groove and the redpoint was on. Rested for a couple of hours to let the sun sink a little and then did it first proper go.

Climbing's a fickle business sometimes, no structured training for months and then I do my hardest sport route in 2 days! I almost don't feel like I've earned it, but it felt really, really good clipping the chains.

 

Great stuff iain.  First 8?

I felt like my movement was better than it ever has been in font.

It's all about movement isn't it?


STG: Get fit for long routes in Switzerland
MTG: E5

M - Usual Ankle/Knee/Shoulder rehab. stuff most days
T - Fingerboard 'Repeaters' (Foot on) - feels like aerobic capacity
W - The Arch: 50 x V0-V2 'on the minute' - more aerobic capacity
T -
F - The Arch: 30 x V0-V2 'on the minute'
S - Short run
S - Portland - six onsights 6a to 6c/+ and one fall/failure due to pulling hold off (Unknown Soldier - more to come off this).  Glorious day, almost too hot.  Where was everyone?

Feeling battered today but making progress.  Still well short on endurance but not pumping out after 3 moves now. 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Peak sport up to 7c+, brown 7c @ the works.

M: Bowderstone - Repeated the crack but got shut down by everything else I tried - must get stronger!
T: Burbage skyline fell race - Great! Beat my previous time and was well in the top half of the pack (there were 379 runners though so it's not such a huge achievement )
W: Got a dog - so nowt.
T: AnCap and Power on board - Great session! Aced my AnCap 14 move circuit and repeated the nails problem I did the first time last week.
F: Raven Tor - Got on Toadside - Conditions weren't great but worked out better sequences for everything, good session.
S: Nowt
S: AnCap and Power on board - Best session ever on 14 move AnCap circuit (didn't fail on any sets), set Toadside crux problem, narrowly failed to do it. Repeated nails problem - Felt strong!!!!!!!!

Good week - Feeling stronger, not getting down the wall enough but the board is really coming into it's own!

This week: Get on Toadside again, AnCap/PE/Power (on board), fingerboard, weights, stretching, 8+ mile fell run.

:D

[wsmith]

Week 18 of plan.

M. LPT. Had to get up at 5.30 for early tide so didnt feel great and skin was thin. Had 2 redpoints on mussel beach. Got the hold after the double flake thing but could only get 3 fingers on. Need 4 on to do the lock to the sloper.
T. Warwick. Redpoints on routes.  Aerocap - 4x4 on routes.
W. Set up new 17 move ancap circuit in garage but no climbing.
T. Tested the circuit and tweaked a bit. Then 2x5 goes at it with 2min 30 rep rest and 5min set rest. Some bar work after - 6 assisted negative one armers and a some locks. 6 front lever progressions.
F. Forest rock. Worked all dry parts of the traverse and did some other problems.
S. Boulder central. Did some problems in main area but spent most of the time on their board.
S. 50 min run. Ummed and arghed all day about whether to finger board or just rest. Decided to go for it in eve - some open hand max hangs and then started HYP session. Did 1 set of 10 by 10s +6kg but fingers didnt feel great, bit tweaky so stopped.

Missed quite a lot on the plan this week - 1 aerocap, 1 ancap, 1FB. Still did a fair bit though.
Less aerocap from next week onwards but power and aeropow starts the week after that. 3 week break from the FB now.

[iain]

Great stuff iain.  First 8?

Thanks, it is, although I'm being open minded about the grade

It's all about movement isn't it?

  ahem, probably, the stretching I've been doing probably helped too

[nai]

m- shouldn't have trusted the poor forecast and drank so much last night
T- 6x4 rep repeaters, shocking, failed final hang of 4 sets
w
T
F-lunch - 6x4 rep repeater +30-40pullups.  felt so good... Eve pullups, weights & big core session
s
S - awake early so up to the Plantation for 5:30, 4 degrees minus windchill - magic.  Failed miserably on Brad Pit but made progress on Help The Young, done it from bridged previously but never done the move off the floor before, did that and got to last move but for some reason couldn't finish it off.  Question is, where was the music coming from?

[Duma]

Right, enough of this shit. Wrist isn't improving, I'm not climbing from now until my birthday in a month.

Are you going to get this looked at?
Some light dumbell wrist exercises might help.

Had a mate who's an osteo and climber fiddle around informally. I feel it occasionally just living life so reckon it's getting about as much as it can take without much extra. Having said that may play with a bag of sugar and see how it goes.

Great stuff iain.  First 8?

Thanks, it is, although I'm being open minded about the grade

don't say that, it's my only 8 (so far)

[Sasquatch]

Goals for current 4 week cycle - Week 3
Weight loss: Drop from 81 to 78kgs - Sunday weight at 78.9kg  Getting close.

Consistancy:Daily 10 min Yoga and 10 min bodyweight circuit, and 30-45 min run everyday.  6/7 on stretch and BW, 4/6 on runs

Fingers: Hang the 45slopers without nestle or pinch, and back 2 the bottom row 2 finger pockets.   Slowly improving, but not even close to these yet. b2 on the bottom pockets has gone from -23kgs to -15kgs in 4 weeks.  slow but steady improvement.  f2 has gone from bw to +8kgs, 45s still can't hang at all.....

Week 3:
M - Sick with Bowel issue so no sleep, no exercise
T - Sick with Bowel issue so no sleep, no exercise
W - Run 4mi, FB Max Hangs - Felt strong, good progression on f2 and b2
Th - Run 5 mi
F - Run 6 Mi (1/2mi intervals), Easy recovery climbing in AM
Sat - Soccer Game - twisted ankle last minute of game - will be tender for a bit, may be able to run easy tomorrow. 
Sun - Bike 75 Min, then FB Max Hangs - Took a long time to warm up, but felt good by the end. 

Sick Monday and Tuesday which I think impacted my recovery Thursday/Friday.  Hard soccer game on Saturday(tied 3-3) and my body has felt wrecked for the last two days.

[iain]

Great stuff iain.  First 8?

Thanks, it is, although I'm being open minded about the grade

don't say that, it's my only 8 (so far)

Don't put much weight in that, I was just hedging my opinion because I've not been on anything recently to compare it to, and actually the majority take the 8 and I will too unless proven otherwise.

[Three Nine]

Fighting Torque is an amazing route, but 7c+. Try the route immediately to its right, which the FA thought was harder than FT and gave 7c+. Under Duress is probably a better candidate for upgrading to 8a than FT.

[iain]

Try the route immediately to its right, Under Duress.

That's my plan when my fingers feel better.

[Sasquatch]

... I felt like my movement was better than it ever has been in font.
... further refining beta and finding a much better sequence through the groove and the redpoint was on. Rested for a couple of hours to let the sun sink a little and then did it first proper go.

Climbing's a fickle business sometimes, no structured training for months and then I do my hardest sport route in 2 days! I almost don't feel like I've earned it, but it felt really, really good clipping the chains.

 

To me those are my favorite routes/problems and the ones that feel best.  The ones where all of a sudden it just happens because you get the movement perfect and you float through the whole thing. 

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

Downward trend in training continues due to Life. Also low motivation to post here, but decided to maintain some level of consistency. As Dave Mac says in 9/10: when times are hard for training, try to maintain some at least basic maintenance level until times get better. And don't be ashamed because at least you're still trying.

M:
T:
W: bike to work
T: Alpine approach training: 30 mins step-ups with heavy rucksack
F: Wall, Thalkirchen, bouldering: short feeble attempt at PE traverses session, weaker than last Sunday. Did all the moves on a 6c though, in sections.
S, S: Hillwalking: hut hike in Karwendel with kids in the rain. Beautiful.

[chris05]

Five days of activity doesn't sound too bad Muenchener  Keep posting, I think we all have weeks where we feel like this but I find posting helps, even if its just to shame me into doing a session! Hearing about others achieving something they have worked hard for also makes it worthwhile.

[JDobo]

M-Nothing much
T - Good bouldering session lots of repeats working on fluid movement during harder moves.
W - Okay gym session was shattered from Tuesday
T - Gentle stretching
F - Another good bouldering session
S - Gentle stretching and a meal out
S - Another great bouldering session with some good movement. Climbing well but got worse on the fingerboard probably just an off session 

On a side note i need to stretch more often, i didn't realise how bad my shoulders were and i seemed to sleep well this week which makes a change. Not sure if its down to the stretching or just a coincidence. Overall a really good week. 

[i_a_coops]

I've been AWOL for a while due an A2 going pop and having my last ever exams looming. The last few weeks and next few weeks would all read 'occasional finger rehab and physics'.

On the plus side my finger is feeling pretty much back to strength already, easy climbing every few days + cold water treatment seems to be working well. Watching other people boning mingers on the steep board still makes me wince though!

[i_a_coops]

Mingers as in minging crimps, that is.......

[Oldmanmatt]

Mingers as in minging crimps, that is.......

You've been doing what to ugly chimps?

[i_a_coops]

Not me! Other people with stronger fingers than mine...