[csl]

Goals for April -
Write my dissertation - Pretty much done, still trying to polish it up for the deadline on tuesday
Climb 7b+ - Psyched to get back on space race next week!

Mon- Leeds wall - Routes and circuits. Ticked Sand 7a+ on main wall. Then some circuits upstairs, the 7a is nails. Feet on campus, core and stretching.
Tues- nowt
Wed- leeds wall - good goes on a 7a+ and 7b, some laps on the boulder wall and then put in some work on the 44 move 7a circuit, can do it in 3 sections. Core and press ups.
Thur- nowt
Fri- Wall - fell off last move of a 7a+, then did some laps on overhanging crimpy stuff. 6cx4 and a 6b+x8. Core and Stretches.
Sat- nothing
Sun- nothing

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) cardio every week. Going well.
- Weight consistently 68ish. Going ok
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year. UK tick, font will have to wait till Autumn now
- 5 probs at or above 7C this year. 2 down, 3 to go
- 8a this year. Only been on a string once so far, but still keen

M - TCA before first night shift. Great link on yellow 8b after warm up - dropped move to #29 from start, which is only a move or 2 from the end of the hard climbing. Wrist seemed willing to let me have a proper go at a few of the new blues too which was good, though not much hard done.
T -
W - run, 6m, grass, flat, 52 min.
T - TCA before last night shift. Not quite as far on the yellow 8b (failed going to #27), few more blues.
F -
S -
S - TCA afternoon. Fun session with lots of folk down. progress on a few tricky blues, feels good to be able to work hard stuff again. Dropped the yellow when feeling really strong adjusting feet in a rest - punter! got to #26 next go, but feeling pretty drained by then. finished with competitive pyramids of pull ups/leg raises on various holds with pete and tom. feel worked now.

Weight: 68 - 69.5

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Rest.
T - Active rest, 10 mins running - okay.
W - Nothing - suck.
T -  Nothing - suck.
F - Gym, 2 x 12 mins arm cycling, 20 mins rec cycling, endurance weights - good, did fine given hadn't been for over a week.
S - Indoor Routes @ Ratho, 8 mid-grade routes and falling practise - good, did surprisingly well given hadn't been for a month, and did falling practise quite well.
S - Active rest, 8 mins running, light weights session - bad, felt like death after 8 mins, not enough food probably, weights fine.

Weight - fucking fat 12.2 stone.

Mediocre week with not enough activity in the middle of it (I did try to get out doing trad on Wed/Thu evenings, but despite north_country_boy's outrageous claim the Glasgow scene is more welcoming than the Sheffield one, it can be very hard to find syked trad partners locally), but at least decent at the weekend with a reassuring visit to Ratho. Next week - do some more.

[JDobo]

M - Rest
T - Short bouldering session, made a few problems up for practising big moves.
W - Gym
T - Rest
F -  Bouldering session, got distracted by new problems...
S - Nothing
S - Great bouldering session, got loads done.

[TobyD]

Summer goals: the groove, an 8b, get into some harder sea cliff trad, LPT 8a.

M - run; 40 min
T - Hangar problems plus about 20 min beastmaker session
W- Awesome Walls routes to 7b+, bit of aero
T - Hangar load of problems mostly, nothing too stressful
F - a bit of yoga and stretching, but pretty much nothing. Stuffed from work
S  - Malham - laps on consenting, few goes on a very smeggy overnight sensation, up past belay of something stupid a couple of times, and a couple of laps of FAEE
S - hangar - blue circuit, 30 min beastmaker session, about half the purples, and a few assorted others. Probably 70 - 100 problems; a bit of core to finish.
fairly decent training week, which needs a bit more structure and focus; feeling the need to get on t'rock a bit more though, pity the weather keeps being deeply uncooperative.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M:
T: bike to work 30km

W: Wall, Thalkirchen: routes. Arrived late from work, and was climbing in a three, so wasn't able to try out Sam & Matt's advice from last week. But did at least try for more quality endurance mileage rather than immediately burning myself out on a couple of at-the-limit attempts. Instead did: 5b, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 5b. Felt very good: the most "seventh grade" routes I've ever succeeded on in a session (6a+ = UIAA VII-), and valuable experience of pressing on whilst pumped on climbing that is demanding but not right at my limit.

T: Alpine Approach Training Day: bike to work 26km; 30 mins step-ups w/15kg rucksack
F: Office Gym: 30 mins PE circuits on  boulder wall; 30 mins shoulders, core, reverse wrist curls
S: Active Rest: 15km bike ride w/son
S: Rainy family weekend: beastmaker; stretching, 25 minutes alpine approach step-ups w/15kg rucksack

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: BM: F2 max hangs with 10kg, smallest pockets, one-arm max hangs, one armer with 1.5kg assistance, theraband & front lever progs - Good intense session
T: rest
W: bouldering at NCC - trying to avoid aggravating my right ring finger but I'm not very good at sticking to really easy stuff. Good session though.
T: rest
F: nothing
S: Bouldering at Anston, should have done pocket problem (7A), I am blaming damp holds, plenty of easier stuff & 8m flat trail run
S: Quite sore so decided to go to work and try to get out in the week rather than have a poor session.

Not a great week, but climbed and trained reasonably for me. Hopefully get more sessions in this week. I need to improve at actually finishing problems.

[iain]

Didn't post last week. No systematic training, just been trying to focus on difficulty and movement without knackering myself too much. In summary:

- 4 BM sessions: max hangs on slopers as they are the only holds that don't tweak the tweaks. Working the 45's and making ok progress once a little stickiness appears. I think a future goal has to be hanging them without the stickiness.
- 1 visit to Reading doing routes. Disappointing session with steady climbing that doesn't work me hard enough then moves I can't do. That's 3 out of 4 visits now where I've been shut down on stuff that grade wise should be warm ups. It's neither training nor fun, think I'm going to avoid routes there in future.
- 1 visit to the new Arches in London. Amazing wall, great route setting and session with kid in a sweet shop attitude. Left completely stuffed but it was too good.
- 2 days outdoors. Tidied up a few outstanding missed onsights up to 7a+, redpointed Wax Museum (after injuring my finger on the mono a year ago) which felt steady, almost redpointed Spare Rib on the same day, and last Saturday whilst confined to the cuttings in the rain I had an impromptu play on Fighting Torque, turns out I can do it 

The tweaks are making progress. RH ring finger A2 is healing nicely, I'm managing RH pinkie swollen DIP joint but that's a long term one I just have to live with I think. What I need to be careful of is LH ring finger PIP collateral ligament strain. 2 finger pockets seem to be most likely cause with January's beastmakering the probable culprit. Must be more careful 

Off to Font next Friday and unexpectedly after training so little in Feb/Mar I find myself in ok shape, but although I'll try projects I'm not expecting much, just be good to get away.

Proper training for trad/sport starts when I get back.

[shark]

Weight 11.7-10

Rest week.

M.
T. 
W.Eve. Argued about Peak bolting policy
T. Eve. 40min run
F. Birthday. Ate cake
S. Youth Climbing Series. Tom flashed on TR to touch the last hold on a 7b/7b+
S. Malham. Pottered on catwalk feeling unfit, fat and sorry for myself. Few goes on Raindogs. Got above 3rd bolt on redpoint but not as high as 12 year old mini beast Aiden Dunne.

Feel like I'm starting from scratch.

Weighed in at 11.6 this morning which is a good start. Intend to get out on rock 3x a week as quieter at work now. Unsure what supplementary training to do - if any.

[Three Nine]

Let me know when you're heading out.

[nai]

Feel like I'm starting from scratch.

Me Too

M - popped to Burbage North intending just to get some volume in but got involved with banana reverse, made no progress (couldn't even do the direct) on that so messed on Def 5.12. Almost got that but dropped the last hard move three times
T - warmed up on bar + pressups etc, pulled on BM heard a loud crack as it pulled away from the wall. Spent an hour swearing at it not going back on.
w
T - got tired putting up BM, tried max hangs, felt shit.
F -  couple of hours at Birchen with tomtom, felt worked afterwards
ss - nowt

Struggling at the moment for various reasons, still can't access the garage board so can't train endurance and reckon original summer aims are blown, not managed 8a starting from scratch previous two years so unlikely again.  Got not real psyche for routes anyway and no hope of getting a whole day out for a few weeks anyway
Also busy with work for the next few weeks and living in half a house as building work drags on, so not feeling very relaxed.

[Fiend]

W.Eve. Argued about Peak bolting policy

What does that count as, training-wise? Lung capacity?

[shark]

Let me know when you're heading out.

Going to the Tor first thing tomorrow to do laps on Sardine / Tin Of. Will be going there again on Friday. Can't get away at weekend.

[Nibile]

good week, less volume.
MON 16 - system. lock offs, static. 4 sets x4 moves. 1 set x6 moves. footless bouldering (2 moves) + 6kg x 3 (each arm). x 2 with no weight. system bouldering (4 moves) + 6kg x 4. x 2 with no weight. lock offs + 6kg 1 set x8 moves. vol 9. int 9.
TUE 17 - complete rest. 
WED 18 - tired. bouldering. three problems. vol 3. int 8. mental tr. OK.
THU 19 - tired. morning Beast. massive flapper after 15 minutes. then recruitment. afternoon weights and pull ups.
FRI 20 - active rest. climbing course.
SAT 21 - fantastic day on my board, did two projects. very very strong. mental tr. at the highest.
SUN 22 - surfing.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Sardine and Peak sport up to 7c+

M: Tor - Did Sardine 3rd redpoint - YYFY!
T: AnCap on board - Was worse than last session but worked hard. Pint in Sheaf.
W: Rest
T: Max hangs and repeaters on BM (felt hard), Weights (bicep+wrist curls + DB complex shiz), stretching followed by AeroCap on BM.
F: Mileage/AeroCap @ The Works - 35 problem circuit @ less than 1 min rest per problem, 2 x Twice round wodden holds on circuit board (aprox 120 moves) @ 3 mins rest.
S: Active rest - 10.5 mile fell fun (inc 1900ft of ascent) from Dennis Knoll along Stanage, all the way round Burbage valley taking in the Higgar Tor drop etc.. Felt pretty tired after that! Went to see a man about a dog - gave him some money..... Eeeep!
S: Mileage @ The Works - 35 problems @ less than 1 min rest per problem - Heard a strange crack in my finger so stopped after 35 rather than doing the full 40 as a preventative measure, RICE - feels fine now thank god!

Good week - Great to tick Sardine, nice to get an early season tick in. Gotta find a new project now and seeing as the Dale is gopping it'll probably be at the Tor... Lucky I like it there eh? Definitely getting fitter and weight has dropped from around 72kg  to around 70kg so all this running must be doing some good.

This week - Tor, AnCap, AeroCap, PE (1st week), Weights, BM - Probably do another 10 miler....

:D

[marky8b]

16/4/12
Chapel Session
Power Endurance
8 sets of 40 move problem with extra 4kg's.
Failed on set 6, 7 & 8 total number of moves 280
core 400 weighted & isometric
Push & Up Row 20 each x 2, Press & curl 20 each x 2

18/4/12
Chapel Session
ANP & SSW
Row 5 mins & easy warm up
100 move bouldering
Core work
weighted & other 350
Weighted pulls on beastmaker
10kg x 6
15kg x 5
20kg x 3
25kg x 2
10kg x 6

21/4/12
Climbing the Tor
Decided to for go traing and try and get project done....once again thwarted by the tor...one move off! Oh well its all good training, looking forward to the Tor this Friday with Shark to discuss the finer points of red point tactics

[Duma]

Active rest - 10.5 mile fell fun (inc 1900ft of ascent) from Dennis Knoll along Stanage, all the way round Burbage valley taking in the Higgar Tor drop etc..

Wish I was fit enough for this to be classed as active rest!
Nice one on sardine.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Active rest - 10.5 mile fell fun (inc 1900ft of ascent) from Dennis Knoll along Stanage, all the way round Burbage valley taking in the Higgar Tor drop etc..

Wish I was fit enough for this to be classed as active rest!
Nice one on sardine.

Cheers, nice to get it ticked..
Should have read fell run not fun... The last mile wasn't so much fun
I dunno if I'm actually fit enough to call it rest either as I feel like crap today - hoping I've just caught another cold off the sprogs not done meself in...

:D

[Fiend]

I would say active rest should be something relatively light, doesn't leave you feeling pretty tired, is more about keeping your body moving, and is a small percentage of a typical exercise day...

[fried]

The backs almost better, I'm still taking it easy and trying not to fall from any great height.

Monday - Indoors. I did a load of easy stuff and the bottom bits of some harder stuff.
Tuesday - Thursday - Shoulder stuff, push ups and Muenchener'sstickthing©.
Friday- Physio session
Saturday - Missus' birthday, so drank too much and ate too much.
Sunday - Got up early, started at Cul du chien which got a bit busy so I did the impossible and managed to get lost between there and 91.1 despite having been there about 50 million times walked around in circles for an hour or so. Backed off some red slabs. Not a great climbing day.

Weight 74.6kg I managed to put on over a kilo in one week, what the fuck? The free canteen access at lunchtime may have been to blame.

[csl]

@ Nai

"T - warmed up on bar + pressups etc, pulled on BM heard a loud crack as it pulled away from the wall. Spent an hour swearing at it not going back on."

I read this as your finger going 'crack' so just count yourself lucky it wasn't that eh!

[cheque]

Tor - Did Sardine 3rd redpoint - YYFY!

fantastic day on my board, did two projects. very very strong. mental tr. at the highest.

Good stuff! 

M- Week 7 of swiss ball program.
T- Bolton complex w/5kg. Beastmaker repeaters first session using properly small edges (my biggest weakness) for one hand.
W- Lunchtime- found adult-sized, non-juggy traverse wall in park in Worksop. Handy as I often work there. Laps on that. Evening- Pull-up pyramid on Beastmaker.
T- Rest.
F- Rest.
S- Nottingham wall bouldering & foot-on campussing.
S- Malham. First session on Consenting Adults. With lots of beta felt ready to lead surprisingly quickly. Poor mental approach and sequence memory on first try meant I wasted too much energy and was burnt out after that. Should go next time.

Delighted with how much fitter I am than on my last visit to Malham 6 weeks ago- 7a redpoint feels surprisingly close now!

[Sasquatch]

Goals for current 4 week cycle -
Weight loss: Drop from 81 to 78kgs - Sunday weight at 80kg 

Consistancy:10 min Yoga and 10 min bodyweight circuit in AM, and 30-45 min run everyday.  5/7 on stretch and BW, 4/7 on runs (plus a ski) - Not bad for the first week

Fingers: Hang the 45slopers without nestle or pinch, and back 2 the bottom row 2 finger pockets.   Felt good on 1st FB Session, then went off plan and F'ed it all up.....  Starting again today.

Week 1:
M - FB Max Hangs on Slopers, f2, b2, 1-arm crimp // Run 5Mi
T - Run 3Mi, Boulder at Gym - Set Projects    Stupidly pulled hard when should have taken it easy and right middle finger overworked - rest of week shot down for finger training
W - Run 4mi, Climbing-Active recovery 30 min Easy traversing on jugs
Th - Run 4.5 mi,
F - Climbing-Active recovery 30 min Easy traversing on jugs
Sat - Ski - 2.5 hr crust Ski  - Incredible day -
Sun - Family Crisis meant no activity at all.....

[tomtom]

A tough work and social week...

Nothing but only put on 2lbs... still not any taller either

[nai]

Nothing?  I feel used.