[csl]

Goals for April -
Write my dissertation - Pretty much done, still trying to polish it up for the deadline on tuesday
Climb 7b+ - Psyched to get back on space race next week!

Mon- Leeds wall - Routes and circuits. Ticked Sand 7a+ on main wall. Then some circuits upstairs, the 7a is nails. Feet on campus, core and stretching.
Tues- nowt
Wed- leeds wall - good goes on a 7a+ and 7b, some laps on the boulder wall and then put in some work on the 44 move 7a circuit, can do it in 3 sections. Core and press ups.
Thur- nowt
Fri- Wall - fell off last move of a 7a+, then did some laps on overhanging crimpy stuff. 6cx4 and a 6b+x8. Core and Stretches.
Sat- nothing
Sun- nothing

[Duma]

Aims:
- Proper (run, bike, etc) cardio every week. Going well.
- Weight consistently 68ish. Going ok
- 7C+ in UK and Font this year. UK tick, font will have to wait till Autumn now
- 5 probs at or above 7C this year. 2 down, 3 to go
- 8a this year. Only been on a string once so far, but still keen

M - TCA before first night shift. Great link on yellow 8b after warm up - dropped move to #29 from start, which is only a move or 2 from the end of the hard climbing. Wrist seemed willing to let me have a proper go at a few of the new blues too which was good, though not much hard done.
T -
W - run, 6m, grass, flat, 52 min.
T - TCA before last night shift. Not quite as far on the yellow 8b (failed going to #27), few more blues.
F -
S -
S - TCA afternoon. Fun session with lots of folk down. progress on a few tricky blues, feels good to be able to work hard stuff again. Dropped the yellow when feeling really strong adjusting feet in a rest - punter! got to #26 next go, but feeling pretty drained by then. finished with competitive pyramids of pull ups/leg raises on various holds with pete and tom. feel worked now.

Weight: 68 - 69.5

[Fiend]

STG: Get into good habits of regular exercise / training; climb lots of routes, get lots of full days out.

MTG: Regain some fitness and climbing fitness; regain trad confidence, climb near to limit in Scotland.

LTG: Attain consistent climber's lifestyle; lose 1 stone weight.

M - Rest.
T - Active rest, 10 mins running - okay.
W - Nothing - suck.
T -  Nothing - suck.
F - Gym, 2 x 12 mins arm cycling, 20 mins rec cycling, endurance weights - good, did fine given hadn't been for over a week.
S - Indoor Routes @ Ratho, 8 mid-grade routes and falling practise - good, did surprisingly well given hadn't been for a month, and did falling practise quite well.
S - Active rest, 8 mins running, light weights session - bad, felt like death after 8 mins, not enough food probably, weights fine.

Weight - fucking fat 12.2 stone.

Mediocre week with not enough activity in the middle of it (I did try to get out doing trad on Wed/Thu evenings, but despite north_country_boy's outrageous claim the Glasgow scene is more welcoming than the Sheffield one, it can be very hard to find syked trad partners locally), but at least decent at the weekend with a reassuring visit to Ratho. Next week - do some more.

[JDobo]

M - Rest
T - Short bouldering session, made a few problems up for practising big moves.
W - Gym
T - Rest
F -  Bouldering session, got distracted by new problems...
S - Nothing
S - Great bouldering session, got loads done.

[TobyD]

Summer goals: the groove, an 8b, get into some harder sea cliff trad, LPT 8a.

M - run; 40 min
T - Hangar problems plus about 20 min beastmaker session
W- Awesome Walls routes to 7b+, bit of aero
T - Hangar load of problems mostly, nothing too stressful
F - a bit of yoga and stretching, but pretty much nothing. Stuffed from work
S  - Malham - laps on consenting, few goes on a very smeggy overnight sensation, up past belay of something stupid a couple of times, and a couple of laps of FAEE
S - hangar - blue circuit, 30 min beastmaker session, about half the purples, and a few assorted others. Probably 70 - 100 problems; a bit of core to finish.
fairly decent training week, which needs a bit more structure and focus; feeling the need to get on t'rock a bit more though, pity the weather keeps being deeply uncooperative.

[Muenchener]

STG: Sustained/pumpy 6b onsight
MTG: Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp
   Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes
LTG: Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)
   Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2

M:
T: bike to work 30km

W: Wall, Thalkirchen: routes. Arrived late from work, and was climbing in a three, so wasn't able to try out Sam & Matt's advice from last week. But did at least try for more quality endurance mileage rather than immediately burning myself out on a couple of at-the-limit attempts. Instead did: 5b, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 6a+, 5b. Felt very good: the most "seventh grade" routes I've ever succeeded on in a session (6a+ = UIAA VII-), and valuable experience of pressing on whilst pumped on climbing that is demanding but not right at my limit.

T: Alpine Approach Training Day: bike to work 26km; 30 mins step-ups w/15kg rucksack
F: Office Gym: 30 mins PE circuits on  boulder wall; 30 mins shoulders, core, reverse wrist curls
S: Active Rest: 15km bike ride w/son
S: Rainy family weekend: beastmaker; stretching, 25 minutes alpine approach step-ups w/15kg rucksack

[chris05]

Goals (2012)

7 x 7A/+ (2 done - 1 x 7A, 1 x 7A+)
3 x 7B
1 x 7B+/7C

Front lever & a one arm pull-up

M: BM: F2 max hangs with 10kg, smallest pockets, one-arm max hangs, one armer with 1.5kg assistance, theraband & front lever progs - Good intense session
T: rest
W: bouldering at NCC - trying to avoid aggravating my right ring finger but I'm not very good at sticking to really easy stuff. Good session though.
T: rest
F: nothing
S: Bouldering at Anston, should have done pocket problem (7A), I am blaming damp holds, plenty of easier stuff & 8m flat trail run
S: Quite sore so decided to go to work and try to get out in the week rather than have a poor session.

Not a great week, but climbed and trained reasonably for me. Hopefully get more sessions in this week. I need to improve at actually finishing problems.

[iain]

Didn't post last week. No systematic training, just been trying to focus on difficulty and movement without knackering myself too much. In summary:

- 4 BM sessions: max hangs on slopers as they are the only holds that don't tweak the tweaks. Working the 45's and making ok progress once a little stickiness appears. I think a future goal has to be hanging them without the stickiness.
- 1 visit to Reading doing routes. Disappointing session with steady climbing that doesn't work me hard enough then moves I can't do. That's 3 out of 4 visits now where I've been shut down on stuff that grade wise should be warm ups. It's neither training nor fun, think I'm going to avoid routes there in future.
- 1 visit to the new Arches in London. Amazing wall, great route setting and session with kid in a sweet shop attitude. Left completely stuffed but it was too good.
- 2 days outdoors. Tidied up a few outstanding missed onsights up to 7a+, redpointed Wax Museum (after injuring my finger on the mono a year ago) which felt steady, almost redpointed Spare Rib on the same day, and last Saturday whilst confined to the cuttings in the rain I had an impromptu play on Fighting Torque, turns out I can do it 

The tweaks are making progress. RH ring finger A2 is healing nicely, I'm managing RH pinkie swollen DIP joint but that's a long term one I just have to live with I think. What I need to be careful of is LH ring finger PIP collateral ligament strain. 2 finger pockets seem to be most likely cause with January's beastmakering the probable culprit. Must be more careful 

Off to Font next Friday and unexpectedly after training so little in Feb/Mar I find myself in ok shape, but although I'll try projects I'm not expecting much, just be good to get away.

Proper training for trad/sport starts when I get back.

[shark]

Weight 11.7-10

Rest week.

M.
T. 
W.Eve. Argued about Peak bolting policy
T. Eve. 40min run
F. Birthday. Ate cake
S. Youth Climbing Series. Tom flashed on TR to touch the last hold on a 7b/7b+
S. Malham. Pottered on catwalk feeling unfit, fat and sorry for myself. Few goes on Raindogs. Got above 3rd bolt on redpoint but not as high as 12 year old mini beast Aiden Dunne.

Feel like I'm starting from scratch.

Weighed in at 11.6 this morning which is a good start. Intend to get out on rock 3x a week as quieter at work now. Unsure what supplementary training to do - if any.

[Three Nine]

Let me know when you're heading out.

[nai]

Feel like I'm starting from scratch.

Me Too

M - popped to Burbage North intending just to get some volume in but got involved with banana reverse, made no progress (couldn't even do the direct) on that so messed on Def 5.12. Almost got that but dropped the last hard move three times
T - warmed up on bar + pressups etc, pulled on BM heard a loud crack as it pulled away from the wall. Spent an hour swearing at it not going back on.
w
T - got tired putting up BM, tried max hangs, felt shit.
F -  couple of hours at Birchen with tomtom, felt worked afterwards
ss - nowt

Struggling at the moment for various reasons, still can't access the garage board so can't train endurance and reckon original summer aims are blown, not managed 8a starting from scratch previous two years so unlikely again.  Got not real psyche for routes anyway and no hope of getting a whole day out for a few weeks anyway
Also busy with work for the next few weeks and living in half a house as building work drags on, so not feeling very relaxed.

[Fiend]

W.Eve. Argued about Peak bolting policy

What does that count as, training-wise? Lung capacity?

[shark]

Let me know when you're heading out.

Going to the Tor first thing tomorrow to do laps on Sardine / Tin Of. Will be going there again on Friday. Can't get away at weekend.

[Nibile]

good week, less volume.
MON 16 - system. lock offs, static. 4 sets x4 moves. 1 set x6 moves. footless bouldering (2 moves) + 6kg x 3 (each arm). x 2 with no weight. system bouldering (4 moves) + 6kg x 4. x 2 with no weight. lock offs + 6kg 1 set x8 moves. vol 9. int 9.
TUE 17 - complete rest. 
WED 18 - tired. bouldering. three problems. vol 3. int 8. mental tr. OK.
THU 19 - tired. morning Beast. massive flapper after 15 minutes. then recruitment. afternoon weights and pull ups.
FRI 20 - active rest. climbing course.
SAT 21 - fantastic day on my board, did two projects. very very strong. mental tr. at the highest.
SUN 22 - surfing.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: Sardine and Peak sport up to 7c+

M: Tor - Did Sardine 3rd redpoint - YYFY!
T: AnCap on board - Was worse than last session but worked hard. Pint in Sheaf.
W: Rest
T: Max hangs and repeaters on BM (felt hard), Weights (bicep+wrist curls + DB complex shiz), stretching followed by AeroCap on BM.
F: Mileage/AeroCap @ The Works - 35 problem circuit @ less than 1 min rest per problem, 2 x Twice round wodden holds on circuit board (aprox 120 moves) @ 3 mins rest.
S: Active rest - 10.5 mile fell fun (inc 1900ft of ascent) from Dennis Knoll along Stanage, all the way round Burbage valley taking in the Higgar Tor drop etc.. Felt pretty tired after that! Went to see a man about a dog - gave him some money..... Eeeep!
S: Mileage @ The Works - 35 problems @ less than 1 min rest per problem - Heard a strange crack in my finger so stopped after 35 rather than doing the full 40 as a preventative measure, RICE - feels fine now thank god!

Good week - Great to tick Sardine, nice to get an early season tick in. Gotta find a new project now and seeing as the Dale is gopping it'll probably be at the Tor... Lucky I like it there eh? Definitely getting fitter and weight has dropped from around 72kg  to around 70kg so all this running must be doing some good.

This week - Tor, AnCap, AeroCap, PE (1st week), Weights, BM - Probably do another 10 miler....

:D

[marky8b]

16/4/12
Chapel Session
Power Endurance
8 sets of 40 move problem with extra 4kg's.
Failed on set 6, 7 & 8 total number of moves 280
core 400 weighted & isometric
Push & Up Row 20 each x 2, Press & curl 20 each x 2

18/4/12
Chapel Session
ANP & SSW
Row 5 mins & easy warm up
100 move bouldering
Core work
weighted & other 350
Weighted pulls on beastmaker
10kg x 6
15kg x 5
20kg x 3
25kg x 2
10kg x 6

21/4/12
Climbing the Tor
Decided to for go traing and try and get project done....once again thwarted by the tor...one move off! Oh well its all good training, looking forward to the Tor this Friday with Shark to discuss the finer points of red point tactics

[Duma]

Active rest - 10.5 mile fell fun (inc 1900ft of ascent) from Dennis Knoll along Stanage, all the way round Burbage valley taking in the Higgar Tor drop etc..

Wish I was fit enough for this to be classed as active rest!
Nice one on sardine.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Active rest - 10.5 mile fell fun (inc 1900ft of ascent) from Dennis Knoll along Stanage, all the way round Burbage valley taking in the Higgar Tor drop etc..

Wish I was fit enough for this to be classed as active rest!
Nice one on sardine.

Cheers, nice to get it ticked..
Should have read fell run not fun... The last mile wasn't so much fun
I dunno if I'm actually fit enough to call it rest either as I feel like crap today - hoping I've just caught another cold off the sprogs not done meself in...

:D

[Fiend]

I would say active rest should be something relatively light, doesn't leave you feeling pretty tired, is more about keeping your body moving, and is a small percentage of a typical exercise day...

[fried]

The backs almost better, I'm still taking it easy and trying not to fall from any great height.

Monday - Indoors. I did a load of easy stuff and the bottom bits of some harder stuff.
Tuesday - Thursday - Shoulder stuff, push ups and Muenchener'sstickthing©.
Friday- Physio session
Saturday - Missus' birthday, so drank too much and ate too much.
Sunday - Got up early, started at Cul du chien which got a bit busy so I did the impossible and managed to get lost between there and 91.1 despite having been there about 50 million times walked around in circles for an hour or so. Backed off some red slabs. Not a great climbing day.

Weight 74.6kg I managed to put on over a kilo in one week, what the fuck? The free canteen access at lunchtime may have been to blame.

[csl]

@ Nai

"T - warmed up on bar + pressups etc, pulled on BM heard a loud crack as it pulled away from the wall. Spent an hour swearing at it not going back on."

I read this as your finger going 'crack' so just count yourself lucky it wasn't that eh!

[cheque]

Tor - Did Sardine 3rd redpoint - YYFY!

fantastic day on my board, did two projects. very very strong. mental tr. at the highest.

Good stuff! 

M- Week 7 of swiss ball program.
T- Bolton complex w/5kg. Beastmaker repeaters first session using properly small edges (my biggest weakness) for one hand.
W- Lunchtime- found adult-sized, non-juggy traverse wall in park in Worksop. Handy as I often work there. Laps on that. Evening- Pull-up pyramid on Beastmaker.
T- Rest.
F- Rest.
S- Nottingham wall bouldering & foot-on campussing.
S- Malham. First session on Consenting Adults. With lots of beta felt ready to lead surprisingly quickly. Poor mental approach and sequence memory on first try meant I wasted too much energy and was burnt out after that. Should go next time.

Delighted with how much fitter I am than on my last visit to Malham 6 weeks ago- 7a redpoint feels surprisingly close now!

[Sasquatch]

Goals for current 4 week cycle -
Weight loss: Drop from 81 to 78kgs - Sunday weight at 80kg 

Consistancy:10 min Yoga and 10 min bodyweight circuit in AM, and 30-45 min run everyday.  5/7 on stretch and BW, 4/7 on runs (plus a ski) - Not bad for the first week

Fingers: Hang the 45slopers without nestle or pinch, and back 2 the bottom row 2 finger pockets.   Felt good on 1st FB Session, then went off plan and F'ed it all up.....  Starting again today.

Week 1:
M - FB Max Hangs on Slopers, f2, b2, 1-arm crimp // Run 5Mi
T - Run 3Mi, Boulder at Gym - Set Projects    Stupidly pulled hard when should have taken it easy and right middle finger overworked - rest of week shot down for finger training
W - Run 4mi, Climbing-Active recovery 30 min Easy traversing on jugs
Th - Run 4.5 mi,
F - Climbing-Active recovery 30 min Easy traversing on jugs
Sat - Ski - 2.5 hr crust Ski  - Incredible day -
Sun - Family Crisis meant no activity at all.....

[tomtom]

A tough work and social week...

Nothing but only put on 2lbs... still not any taller either

[nai]

Nothing?  I feel used.

[tomtom]

Nothing?  I feel used.

Feck, forgot about Friday! Yes indeed - a good day at Birchens with Nai dodging showers and trying Niks impossible 7A+ Not as useless a week as I feared!

[wsmith]

Week 15 of plan.

M. 1 hour of campus board laddering, assisted negative one armers and tried some hard stuff on board. Ancap - 10 reps of 25 move circuit, rest still at 2min. Not close to previous records.
T. Warwick. Some medium bouldering. Redpoints on routes, felt good. Short aerocap - 20min continuity.
W.
T. First FB session of this 4 week cycle. Going to do 4 weeks of FB hypertrophy before power phase. Never done hypertrophy stuff on fingerboard before but from what I read, came up with this, open to criticism of this as I dunno if its right. 6 sets of 10 by 10 hangs. So 10s hang, 5s rest, 10s hang, 5s rest etc until 10 hangs are done. 6 sets gives 10min hang time overall. Rest between sets 1 and 2 was 2min and this increased by 1min every set after that. Hangs done at half crimp on an edge that is about 80% of max. Felt very much like power endurance, dunno if it should or not. Had to move to slightly bigger edge in last few reps of last 3 sets.
F. 30 min of bouldering on the board. Ancap - 10 reps of 16 move circuit. Rest still at 2 min. Far from previous records again.
S.
S.

Was going to do 1 aerocap and 1 FB at the weekend but had to work solidly both days for deadline on Monday. Next week is planned easy week so will shorten that a bit.

[Sasquatch]

T. First FB session of this 4 week cycle. Going to do 4 weeks of FB hypertrophy before power phase. Never done hypertrophy stuff on fingerboard before but from what I read, came up with this, open to criticism of this as I dunno if its right. 6 sets of 10 by 10 hangs. So 10s hang, 5s rest, 10s hang, 5s rest etc until 10 hangs are done. 6 sets gives 10min hang time overall. Rest between sets 1 and 2 was 2min and this increased by 1min every set after that. Hangs done at half crimp on an edge that is about 80% of max. Felt very much like power endurance, dunno if it should or not. Had to move to slightly bigger edge in last few reps of last 3 sets.

Seems like too high of volume for hypertrophy to me....  6x10 seems like too much in a single workout.  I would think you would want to be doing 2 or 3x10 in a workout. 

This is just from reading though and no personal experience.  I've never actually done directed hypertrophy training....  Maybe somebody else will chime in.

[Nibile]

Interesting, I used to do 6 sets of 10" hangs for 10-11 holds as well. It's a lot of volume. I could be wrong but it seems to me that as soon as I cut the sets by half, my finger strength increased very much.
It could be related with training everyday on the board also, but I really noticed this in the last month.
I also have to say that many of my shirts and fleeces don't fit my forearms anymore, for what it's worth... 

[iain]

I also have to say that many of my shirts and fleeces don't fit my forearms anymore, for what it's worth... 

 

I want some of that

[Sasquatch]

I also have to say that many of my shirts and fleeces don't fit my forearms anymore, for what it's worth... 

 

I want some of that

You Italians and your tight shirts   

My old training program (  ) made it so my shirts didn't fit anymore either, but in a slightly different way....

[tommytwotone]

Late, late update from me!

STG: Cliff tickage
LTG: Font 7b

M - Nowt
T - Another very good board session
W - Nowt
T - Down to London for Hip Hop Karaoke, passable rendition of "Me, Myself and I", a good few beers and bed
F - Hangover, full English, trip to London Transport Museum, another night out
S - Off to Reigate to visit mates, another night out
S - Arrive at King's Cross at 1:30pm to catch 2:40pm train to Leeds only to find all trains travelling north cancelled. After a long and drawn out saga, eventually blag onto a train to Leeds from St. Pancras, stand all the way home and arrive back at 10:30pm, 9 hours after arriving at King's Cross!

[wsmith]

Seems like too high of volume for hypertrophy to me....  6x10 seems like too much in a single workout.  I would think you would want to be doing 2 or 3x10 in a workout. 

This is just from reading though and no personal experience.  I've never actually done directed hypertrophy training....  Maybe somebody else will chime in.

Interesting, I used to do 6 sets of 10" hangs for 10-11 holds as well. It's a lot of volume. I could be wrong but it seems to me that as soon as I cut the sets by half, my finger strength increased very much.
It could be related with training everyday on the board also, but I really noticed this in the last month.
I also have to say that many of my shirts and fleeces don't fit my forearms anymore, for what it's worth... 

Ok thanks. Just done some more reading on here. Think you are both right, I need to lower the volume a bit.

Nibile, when you halved the number of sets did you decrease the hold size/increase weight or just keep the same intensity?

[miso soup]

STG:  Rehabilitate
MTG:  Regain previous level, introduce structured training and injury prevention
LTG:  7A in Font

M- Arch.  Takes forever to get warmed up, eventually a decent session.  Flashed some new stuff, miniscule progress on projects.  Yoga, shoulder exercises.
T- Arch.  Green project done.  Took three sessions even though I was tickling the last hold on day one.  Maybe solid V4, in which case three sessions isn't miles below par.  Yoga, shoulders.
W- Biscuit.  Light session working my way through the blue circuit.  Yoga, shoulders.
T- As W
F- Shoulders
S- Biscuit.  Finished off the blue circuit then worked nice prow hugging heel-hookey red, should go next time.  Did some of the easier new stuff on the comp wall.  Yoga, shoulders.
S- Arch.  New yellow circuit.  Nearly flashed all of them, couple where I screwed up the first move then sent second go.  Shoulders.

Rain, rain, rain.  Feeling like I'm on my way back to the level I was at before injury, even though my shoulder still feels a long way from normal.

[Nibile]

Nibile, when you halved the number of sets did you decrease the hold size/increase weight or just keep the same intensity?

hey!
I have to check my training log, but I am quite sure that I managed to increase the intensity by doing the same hangs on worse holds, or managing to increase the hangs durations and so on.
I posted a question on here about that: I think that the "second" three sets of hangs that I was doing were simply thrashing my fingers too much, with two effects: longer recovery between sessions; decreased intensity in the sets.
this old routine has been helpful in giving me a "hard" base made of big volume and high intensity training. now I'm training almost everyday, so I need shorter session and I can go for max intensity.

[duncan]

STG: Improve stamina for trad. season and trip to big scary cliff in Switzerland this summer.
MTG: E5 by end 2012. 

3 months out due to spannered ankle and wrist and constant cough/run-down-ness.  Not ideal preparation for the Verdon but it went reasonably well considering.  It rained a lot.  Did Pilier des Ecureuils which was good but mostly short routes due to concerns about getting caught half-way up something in a downpour.   Les enrages, the tentative target, was wet.  The gorge felt a little less impressive than in 1980 but Provence still generally a fine place.     

Managed a couple of technical 6b+s which should transfer well to trad. if I can slow the onset of pumpedness a little and it ever stops raining here. 

M - Scraps at La Turbie + flight home
T -
W - Short run. 
T -
F - 10mins on / 5 mins off x 3. Moderately pumped.  Aerobic Capacity?
S - Short run. 
S - 10mins on / 5 mins off x 3. Moderately pumped. 

Feel like I'm starting from scratch.

Hang in there.