[tomtom]

Nothing?  I feel used.

Feck, forgot about Friday! Yes indeed - a good day at Birchens with Nai dodging showers and trying Niks impossible 7A+ Not as useless a week as I feared!

[wsmith]

Week 15 of plan.

M. 1 hour of campus board laddering, assisted negative one armers and tried some hard stuff on board. Ancap - 10 reps of 25 move circuit, rest still at 2min. Not close to previous records.
T. Warwick. Some medium bouldering. Redpoints on routes, felt good. Short aerocap - 20min continuity.
W.
T. First FB session of this 4 week cycle. Going to do 4 weeks of FB hypertrophy before power phase. Never done hypertrophy stuff on fingerboard before but from what I read, came up with this, open to criticism of this as I dunno if its right. 6 sets of 10 by 10 hangs. So 10s hang, 5s rest, 10s hang, 5s rest etc until 10 hangs are done. 6 sets gives 10min hang time overall. Rest between sets 1 and 2 was 2min and this increased by 1min every set after that. Hangs done at half crimp on an edge that is about 80% of max. Felt very much like power endurance, dunno if it should or not. Had to move to slightly bigger edge in last few reps of last 3 sets.
F. 30 min of bouldering on the board. Ancap - 10 reps of 16 move circuit. Rest still at 2 min. Far from previous records again.
S.
S.

Was going to do 1 aerocap and 1 FB at the weekend but had to work solidly both days for deadline on Monday. Next week is planned easy week so will shorten that a bit.

[Sasquatch]

T. First FB session of this 4 week cycle. Going to do 4 weeks of FB hypertrophy before power phase. Never done hypertrophy stuff on fingerboard before but from what I read, came up with this, open to criticism of this as I dunno if its right. 6 sets of 10 by 10 hangs. So 10s hang, 5s rest, 10s hang, 5s rest etc until 10 hangs are done. 6 sets gives 10min hang time overall. Rest between sets 1 and 2 was 2min and this increased by 1min every set after that. Hangs done at half crimp on an edge that is about 80% of max. Felt very much like power endurance, dunno if it should or not. Had to move to slightly bigger edge in last few reps of last 3 sets.

Seems like too high of volume for hypertrophy to me....  6x10 seems like too much in a single workout.  I would think you would want to be doing 2 or 3x10 in a workout. 

This is just from reading though and no personal experience.  I've never actually done directed hypertrophy training....  Maybe somebody else will chime in.

[Nibile]

Interesting, I used to do 6 sets of 10" hangs for 10-11 holds as well. It's a lot of volume. I could be wrong but it seems to me that as soon as I cut the sets by half, my finger strength increased very much.
It could be related with training everyday on the board also, but I really noticed this in the last month.
I also have to say that many of my shirts and fleeces don't fit my forearms anymore, for what it's worth... 

[iain]

I also have to say that many of my shirts and fleeces don't fit my forearms anymore, for what it's worth... 

 

I want some of that

[Sasquatch]

I also have to say that many of my shirts and fleeces don't fit my forearms anymore, for what it's worth... 

 

I want some of that

You Italians and your tight shirts   

My old training program (  ) made it so my shirts didn't fit anymore either, but in a slightly different way....

[tommytwotone]

Late, late update from me!

STG: Cliff tickage
LTG: Font 7b

M - Nowt
T - Another very good board session
W - Nowt
T - Down to London for Hip Hop Karaoke, passable rendition of "Me, Myself and I", a good few beers and bed
F - Hangover, full English, trip to London Transport Museum, another night out
S - Off to Reigate to visit mates, another night out
S - Arrive at King's Cross at 1:30pm to catch 2:40pm train to Leeds only to find all trains travelling north cancelled. After a long and drawn out saga, eventually blag onto a train to Leeds from St. Pancras, stand all the way home and arrive back at 10:30pm, 9 hours after arriving at King's Cross!

[wsmith]

Seems like too high of volume for hypertrophy to me....  6x10 seems like too much in a single workout.  I would think you would want to be doing 2 or 3x10 in a workout. 

This is just from reading though and no personal experience.  I've never actually done directed hypertrophy training....  Maybe somebody else will chime in.

Interesting, I used to do 6 sets of 10" hangs for 10-11 holds as well. It's a lot of volume. I could be wrong but it seems to me that as soon as I cut the sets by half, my finger strength increased very much.
It could be related with training everyday on the board also, but I really noticed this in the last month.
I also have to say that many of my shirts and fleeces don't fit my forearms anymore, for what it's worth... 

Ok thanks. Just done some more reading on here. Think you are both right, I need to lower the volume a bit.

Nibile, when you halved the number of sets did you decrease the hold size/increase weight or just keep the same intensity?

[miso soup]

STG:  Rehabilitate
MTG:  Regain previous level, introduce structured training and injury prevention
LTG:  7A in Font

M- Arch.  Takes forever to get warmed up, eventually a decent session.  Flashed some new stuff, miniscule progress on projects.  Yoga, shoulder exercises.
T- Arch.  Green project done.  Took three sessions even though I was tickling the last hold on day one.  Maybe solid V4, in which case three sessions isn't miles below par.  Yoga, shoulders.
W- Biscuit.  Light session working my way through the blue circuit.  Yoga, shoulders.
T- As W
F- Shoulders
S- Biscuit.  Finished off the blue circuit then worked nice prow hugging heel-hookey red, should go next time.  Did some of the easier new stuff on the comp wall.  Yoga, shoulders.
S- Arch.  New yellow circuit.  Nearly flashed all of them, couple where I screwed up the first move then sent second go.  Shoulders.

Rain, rain, rain.  Feeling like I'm on my way back to the level I was at before injury, even though my shoulder still feels a long way from normal.

[Nibile]

Nibile, when you halved the number of sets did you decrease the hold size/increase weight or just keep the same intensity?

hey!
I have to check my training log, but I am quite sure that I managed to increase the intensity by doing the same hangs on worse holds, or managing to increase the hangs durations and so on.
I posted a question on here about that: I think that the "second" three sets of hangs that I was doing were simply thrashing my fingers too much, with two effects: longer recovery between sessions; decreased intensity in the sets.
this old routine has been helpful in giving me a "hard" base made of big volume and high intensity training. now I'm training almost everyday, so I need shorter session and I can go for max intensity.

[duncan]

STG: Improve stamina for trad. season and trip to big scary cliff in Switzerland this summer.
MTG: E5 by end 2012. 

3 months out due to spannered ankle and wrist and constant cough/run-down-ness.  Not ideal preparation for the Verdon but it went reasonably well considering.  It rained a lot.  Did Pilier des Ecureuils which was good but mostly short routes due to concerns about getting caught half-way up something in a downpour.   Les enrages, the tentative target, was wet.  The gorge felt a little less impressive than in 1980 but Provence still generally a fine place.     

Managed a couple of technical 6b+s which should transfer well to trad. if I can slow the onset of pumpedness a little and it ever stops raining here. 

M - Scraps at La Turbie + flight home
T -
W - Short run. 
T -
F - 10mins on / 5 mins off x 3. Moderately pumped.  Aerobic Capacity?
S - Short run. 
S - 10mins on / 5 mins off x 3. Moderately pumped. 

Feel like I'm starting from scratch.

Hang in there.