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Flashing 8a at 18 - Ross Kirkland Interview
17 May 2011, 11:13 am

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ross on Zona 0 (8b) at Siurana, Spain[/td][/tr]

[/table]The Scottish youngster, Ross Kirkland joined us on our 10 week Spanish Stone trip and managed to impress me more than any other climber on the trip. At age 18 he climbed his first 8b with Zona 0 at Siurana and flashed El Segre 8a at Tres Ponts within the first few weeks of the trip. Ross' modesty and logical approach to his climbing is both impressive and inspiring. He is a special talent for Scotland in my view and has lots more to give to climbing...



MM: Hi Ross, What is your climbing background?

RK: Ive been climbing for 10 years and I started at the age of 8 at Alian Rock in Edinburgh.

I have also TRAD climbed since I was age 11 up to E5 ( a route called Strapadictomy at Froggat Edge). I mainly sport climb and redpointed to 8a at Disblia in Spain this year.

Ive competition climbed since I was 9 via the Brycks then onto the YCS and was a member of the British Youth Team for 1 year.

MM: What did flashing an 8a mean to you?

RK: It was an important step in my climbing career and I felt brilliant after doing it!

MM: What was the process that you went through to prepare for the attempted flash?

RK:  I trained for a number of years and the mental process I went through was that I just decided I liked the look of the route and just wanted to do it (preferably a flash) but I figured I would give it my all.

MM: What happened during your flash ascent?

RK: I flashed it...that happened!:-) I nearly fell off the crux at 10m up. After that, the route was just about trying to deal with the pump developed at the crux. The route was 55m long and it was reasonably straight forward through the overhanging wall. However, went it went back vertical it was much more technical climbing.

Grabbing the chain, I felt a real sense of achievement of managing to flash an 8a which was so long.

MM: What advice would you give to a young aspiring climber wanting to flash or on sight at there limit?

RK: Train hard, find the correct 8a and don't over psyche yourself. then they should man up and just do it! ;-)

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ross exacting his finger strength on some crimpy filth![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ross taking his rest day in a tree![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Marsh Mallow Barbecue![/td][/tr]

[/table]







Ross was kindly supported by the MC of S on his trip



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Únete a nuestro único doble ReAch del factor de capacitación en línea Programa de € 25 al mes
22 May 2011, 8:56 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Siurana Coaching[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Únete a nuestro doble ReAch del factor de capacitación en línea Programa de € 25 por mes para el término de su plan de formación: por lo general de 4 meses.

Nos especializamos en un programa de entrenamiento con nuestro Metodologíaúnica de doble factor y han tenido muchos resultados excepcionales hasta la fecha:

• K Gibson: 7b + a 8 en 15 semanas
• A Gordon: 6b + a 7 en 6 semanas

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Siurana[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Montserrat[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Terradets[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Por favor, comuníquese con Mark McGowan en markmcgowan01@gmail.com para preguntar acerca de su programa dede formación en línea . Mark también está disponible de 1 a 1 sesiones de entrenamiento en el área de Barcelona escalada(200 km).



ReAch de doble factor de Programa de Capacitación en línea

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Ingles:

Join our 'Reach' Dual Factor Online Training Program for 25euros per month for the term of your training plan: usually 4 months.

We specialize in a training program using our unique Dual Factor methodolgy  and have had many exceptional results to date:

K Gibson : 7b+ to 8a in 15 weeks

A Gordon: 6b+ to 7a in 6 weeks

Please contact Mark McGowan at markmcgowan01@gmail.com to inquire about your online training program. Mark will is also available for 1 to 1 coaching sessions within the Barcelona climbing area (200km).



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Interés está solicitando "REACH Escalada entrenador" con experiencia de los entrenadores de escalada que son nativos de español o catalán y desea unirse a nosotros en la zona de Cataluña.
23 May 2011, 7:20 am





Interés está solicitando "REACH Escalada entrenador" con experiencia de los entrenadores de escalada que son nativos de español o catalán y desea unirse a nosotros en la zona de Cataluña.

Buscamos experimentados entrenadores de escalada que se basan en la región deCataluña.

Reach es una selección única de los entrenadores originario de Escocia, ahoratambién operan en Cataluña.

Si está interesado, por favor markmcgowan01@gmail.com contacto con tu CV ydatos de su escalada y experiencia como entrenador.

www.reachclimbingcoach.blogspot.com

www.reachclimbingcoach.com





Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Sport Climbing: Fall Training  or Risk, Value & Commitment?
30 May 2011, 6:57 pm























A lot of coaching focuses on this as it is obviously a big part of climbing because one falls when pushing to the limit.

However, I would suggest that the standard practice of throwing oneself off the local indoor climbing wall on a regular basis, is only a very small part of truly dealing with the fear of falling. I don't think one can eradicate it completely, and that would be destructive as one taps into that adrenaline anyway for that little bit extra. Fear can be used to drive more effort and focus but will obviously have a negative effect if it is all consuming.

So, I feel that the main thing to focus on is the psychological aspect of managing the fear of falling in a way that meets the real issue head on: RISK!

Risk Versus Value:

This is really where I think the biggest scope for improvement is. How much value that is placed on the project by the individual, whether its an on sight attempt with an unsavory run out between bolts or a project red point that is plagued with a bad clip.

If the value is low then the level of risk that one is prepared to invest is low, if the value of success is high then the level of risk that one is prepared to take is higher.

Obviously a tactic for Risk Management (assessment of risks) should be employed to mitigate the risk and also clarify what the risks and implications really are. But once sorted, then one should then be focusing on the level of value that one places on getting the route done or the style of approach required to maximize the opportunity...This level of value that you associate with it is what delivers the level of commitment in your actions.

So,              

(Risk + Assessment) versus Value = Commitment

And so, if one assumes that the level of commitment is really what is the issue in respect of fall training, and that Value is really the main individual variable as most can assess risks and implement mitigating tactics etc...

So by focusing on the very personal the level of value you place on the project or on sight attempt then hopefully that will deliver a better understanding and allow you to place the 'fall' into a secondary place when focusing on the climb.



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2011
2 June 2011, 8:25 pm

Scottish Youth Climbing Championships 2011

Brief Report and pics by Kevin Howett

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][/tr]

[/table]The SYCC was held at the EICA: Ratho on Saturday 28th May to find the Scottish Youth Champions. With a continuing bad weather forecast for strong winds and rain, there was nowhere else better to be! As a result the arena was full to brimming all day with climbers escaping the remnants of the bad storm on the Monday before. Indeed it was filled with a lot of children! A good sign for Scottish climbing!

69 children attended the competition this year with the top 5 kids from the YCS categories being invited to fight it out, current GB Team menbers, and the additional 17-19yr category. Scott Forsyth took charge on the day as Area Youth Cordinator as Simon was unable to make it due to work commitments. Avril Gall organised the day's activities and made sure the scoring went smoothly. The routes were set by Neil McGeachy and Mark McGowan, and numerous parents played an instrumental role as judges or belayers.

It proved to be a long day, with registration starting at 9am and the day finishing at 8.30pm. A warm up session led by ex-GB Team member Robert Mackenzie, ably assisted by Calum Forsyth and GB Senior Team member Natalie Berry, saw the kids running and jumping around the arena. The routes were set on the Speed Wall, the old Competition Wall and The Hanger Wall and were all demonstrated at the start of the procedings - and there were a fair number of demonstrators caught out, much to the crowd's amusement! After the qualifying rounds, and whilst waiting for the Finals Routes to be prepared, presentations were made for the winners of the Youth Climbing Series (YCS) which had concluded a few weeks before. They all recieved their winners' plaques and their Team Hoodies. IdesignI have proudly sponsored the two Scottish Teams this year.

Then the SYCC Finals were held with all the kids competing from isolation in the bouldering room so all routes were attempted on-sight. There were some superb performances from the kids with on-sights of routes judged to be F7c+, especially from those in the 11-13yr & 14-16yr categories. There was a good turn-out for the 17-19yr category with 7 boys batteling for the title of champion's position, but only Ellen Macaskill competed for the girls. Tiso sponsored the SYCC prizes this year and the original 'sport lower-off' trophies made up by Scott Muir who held the inaugural youth championship were presented to the Champions.

A full report will be available soon, but the winners are listed below:

[tr][td]SYCC 2011[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Position[/td][td]Boys[/td][td]Girls[/td][/tr][tr][td]8yr-10yr Category[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]

1st[/td][td]

Rhys Langlands[/td][td]

Rhiannon Freireich[/td][/tr][tr][td]

2nd[/td][td]

Rory White[/td][td]

Keri Maclennan[/td][/tr][tr][td]

3rd[/td][td]

Thomas Ryan[/td][td]

Holly Davis[/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]11yr-13yr Category[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]

1st[/td][td]

William Bosi[/td][td]

Kirsten Gray[/td][/tr][tr][td]

2nd[/td][td]

Angus Davidson[/td][td]

Gabriella Stewart[/td][/tr][tr][td]

3rd[/td][td]

Rory Cargill[/td][td]

Keira Farmer[/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]14yr-16yr Category[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]

1st[/td][td]

Stephen Addison[/td][td]

Rachel Carr[/td][/tr][tr][td]

2nd[/td][td]

Dylan Mackenzie[/td][td]

Nikki Addison[/td][/tr][tr][td]

3rd[/td][td]

Willis Morris[/td][td]

Rebekah Drummond[/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]17yr-19yr Category[/td][td][/td][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]

1st[/td][td]

Ross Kirkland[/td][td]

Ellen Macaskill[/td][/tr][tr][td]

2nd[/td][td]

Alasdair Johnstone[/td][td]

[/td][/tr][tr][td]

3rd[/td][td]

Calum Forsyth[/td][/tr]

[/table]



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Amanda Did it ...'Dinnet Do It' (7c)
24 July 2011, 7:23 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Amanda working her 7c project[/td][/tr]

[/table]Amanda sent her target project today 'Dinnet Do It' (7c), which is great news for her and for ReAch. I have been reducing my 1 to 1 coaching days over the last month or so as I begin to understand what I want from my coaching and helping Amanda unlock her true potential in climbing has been a huge pleasure for me. I love to see someone get something tangible back from a coaching session that is real and not just an organised exchange of information of skills or technique drills.

She has a strong commitment to her climbing and to see her get her target 3 months before her expectations is just bloody marvelous! Well done you Amanda!

I love working with people like you and continue to be inspired by your love for your climbing and your special training psyche... :-) happy days dude...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]send....Happiness! [/td][/tr]

[/table]



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Inspiration... My friend Paul Pritchard - Trikes on the Roof of the World
28 July 2011, 9:10 am



http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/424152792/trikes-on-the-roof-of-the-world?ref=live



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Johnny Dawes’ Essentials of Elegant Motion
30 July 2011, 2:10 pm





Johnny Dawes’ essentials of elegant motion

“There are so many rock types, so many different climbers it seems improbable there exists a coaching method that could account for all circumstances. The foundation for such a method would have to be a hard and fast rule and there is just such a rule  – the equivalent in climbing of the racing line on a racetrack – an easiest, fastest way…”

[Each hold has a particular direction in which it works best. Place your elbow or knee in line with that direction and more purchase from the hold results and progress is easier]

Commonly climbers do two moves every time they make a move to a new hold; one to get the hold and then one to settle onto it in the direction it works best.  Start from a very slightly different position, go straight to the sweet spot on the next hold and you do half the moves!

I split my explanation into the What, How and When to move.

What to use:

Select holds furthest away from the plane of the face; sometimes a lesser hold in an outer position makes a move less strenuous.

Spot oppositions; when clamping or bridging becomes involved the stocks, bonds and dividends of legs, back and waist can be used rather than always dipping into the crucial current account of the forearm.

Solve sequence; look at what could be used as a hold, noting which hand it works with, and whether you can use both hands or feet on it.

How to move

 

It is understandable technique goes wrong so regularly. Already in a position you’re comfortable in, why move anywhere but directly to the next hold. But how you do that makes all the difference. Imagine the easiest shape of your whole body on the next hold and hit that rather than go directly to the hold the easiest way and a host of benefits become clear:

• 
  The move is more likely to be successful.
• 
  To be less injurious.
• 
  To be less wearing.
• 
  To be felt before it happens allowing confidence to

opens up the possibility to feel the fall the move threatens to make, move your body in that very direction first, before moving and the secondary move, complete with it’s skin tearing, tendon straining jolt can be easily avoided. Your body weight will do something, you’d best work out how to move it to your advantage. Imagining the fall that a move unleashes countering it precisely, aiming for best shape on hold rather than just grabbing the hold renders the move less powerful, saving your strength, countering the fear of falling because you can feel how you are controlling it physically. Feeling holds within whole easier shapes the possibility to feel the shape after that quickly means how to build a weight reducing rhythm can

Climb less strenuously – get body weight to move to your advantage rather than just drag you off.

Protect one’s body from injury – by making the moves more gradually impact forces are reduced.

Work out how to do moves you can’t do by hanging on and memorising the feel of being in the position, or using the fall to point out the vectors that are missing from your movement. You can even use this to mentally practise moves you or anyone may never climb, learning their technical lessons.

Dealing with the fear of falling – knowing how you will fall off a move you inject the exactly opposite movement to counter that fall, and too, the fear of it.

Some simplified abridged versions of the dynamic approach.

Sideways weight transferal – swinging weight over a foot to move up the other.

Inward waist thrusts – to stop you peeling back as a hand lets go to reach the other up.

Diagonal rock-over – from out and to the side, to up and over and in, onto the foothold.  

Strategy, planning, purchases and research.

Whatever branch of our neurotic little activity tickles your fancy, coalescing what you want to accomplish, how you intend to do it will make adapting to inevitable changing circumstances more successful.

During my new route campaign on the Eastern front of the Peak District I kept a regularly updated list of what I wished to climb. When weather, partner slippage, gear foibles or some other unpredictable might otherwise have frustrated my efforts a clear plan made adapting easy.

Research and buy the best stuff you can afford, borrow it, swap it, use your noodle to get the kit together. Replace before you have to, keeping a lower performance alternative with which to practise handicapped or in the case of boots, which was what was on my mind, more comfortably.

Develop good practises. Clean boots, trim weight away from gear, organise so you can leave the house in a minute, pay bills, pack lunch, stretch to rest etc. Be sensitive to what things power you up and what drags you down. In Kinaesthesiology changing muscle resistance gives away what helps and hinders. Even holding a diet Coke in your other hand reduces the strength of the other so don’t be so sure you already know how everything is. Keep awake to what might help, it might even be a session on the Campus board if you don’t get injured.  

All these train spotty details make a difference but more than anything being creative and dogged will out. Turn up and turn out more. Become faster, more precise, stronger with a greater variety of skills, keep note of partners with motors and gites or clever ways to move.

Johnny Dawes

---------------------------------

I will be at Edinburgh film festival 7th October. Please contact me on the following email  for any course inquiries: dawesjohnny86@gmail.com  or visit www.johnnydawes.co.uk



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Lead and Speed Climbing Coaching Sessions for Kids at EICA: Ratho
12 September 2011, 3:53 pm

Friday 9th September 2011

Scottish Youth Event Lead & SPEED Climbing Coaching PrepDate: 1st October 2011Venue: EICA: Ratho

Each year MCofS has organised a prep weekend for children who wish to enter the British Championships. This year, for the first time, a Speed Climbing Championship will also be held and the MCofS prep event will this year include advice, information and coaching in speed climbing from MCofS coach Neil McGeachy (ReAch Coaching) and EICA Instructor Callum Forsyth, ably assistend by Scott Forsyth and Sandy Carr from the Quickdraw Club who helped organise the speed discipline for the recent IFSC European Youth Cup.

With the British Championships being held at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena this year, the MCofS prep event is being organised in association with EICA: Ratho and is open to all children who competed in the Youth Climbing Series in Scotland, members of the GB Team and any other children resident in Scotland between 13yr and 19yrs old who may wish to have a go.

Nic Crawshaw, EICA Climbing Instructor Team Leader said,

"We are delighted to be hosting the first ever British Speed Climbing Championship at the EICA. We have the only IFSC world record format speed wall in the UK and have athletes from as far afield as the USA coming to train on the facility. Speed climbing is shortlisted as a future Olympic sport and with support from the MCofS this facility will allow us to train the champions of tommorrow."

Full details and an application form can be downloaded from the 'Kids Events' page. Non Members of MCofS can attend: they must join the MCofS (in order to ensure liability insurance) as Youth Members which is being offered at the reduced rate of £10.

NOTE:

The BLCC 2011 will be held at EICA: Ratho on the weekend of October 15th - 16th. For the first time it will include a Speed Climbing Championship on the purpose built speed wall in the Arena. The competition is open to anyone resident in the UK. There are 11 categories of Youth, Junior, Senior and Veteran for climbers born between 1967 and 1992.

Children born between 1992 and 1998 are eligible to compete in the BLCC. They MUST be capable of climbing on lead.Competing in the Speed competition involves top-rope climbing belayed from below. Climbers can compete in both disciplines.

More details of the British Championships can be found HERE



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Pushing through a plateau in your climbing via systems training
16 September 2011, 7:30 pm





Increasing strength is a great way to crack the concrete of a climbing plateau and systems training seems to be the best way that I have found to increase my finger strength...not bouldering. Bouldering is not as deep and is great for honing power but I have always found that structured systems training the most effective then followed by bouldering. To pull powerfully from one hold to another on a boulder problem, you must first be able to hold and pull on the hold first! This is finger 'strength' not power...

To shift into a new level of climbing requires change to what you are doing and for that I find you also need a commitment to the process of what you are trying to achieve...

I have always found that a particular focus on one strategy for a time period of just two weeks with total consistency in the training and recovery provides noticeable results. I have recently been focused on trying to establish a new level of Power Endurance and to do that I have been using a mix of plyometrics and absolute strength tactics to try and lift my capacity for singular power to a higher level before attempting to convert to power endurance.

This style of training (plyometrics), tends to require not only a higher level of strength to control the shock loading as it penetrates the nervous system, but also longer recovery on particular exercises is required.

For our Advanced Plyo-Systems Training Program then contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com







Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

British Lead Climbing Championships 2011
17 October 2011, 8:53 pm



The competition wall at EICA Ratho

The Junior, Youth and Veterans categories were held on Saturday 15th.  On the second day, Sunday 16th, the senior BLCCs, and the British Speed Climbing Championships, were held.The BMC British Lead Climbing Championships (BLCCs) were held at the Edinburgh International Climbing Arena, Ratho, on Saturday and Sunday 15th & 16th October 2011.Junior  & Youth Results

Female Juniors1. Lucy Mitchell

2. Jessica MCCaskey

Male Juniors1. Ed Hamer

2. Luke Tilley

3. Jonathan Field

Female Youth A1. Charlotte Garden

2. Sarah Pashley

3. Jennifer Wood

Male Youth A1. Jonny White

2. Tom Bonnert

3. Andrew Colligan

Female Youth B1. Molly Thompson-Smith

2. Rachel Carr

3. Tara Hayes

Male Youth B1. Connor Byrne

2. Dominic Burns

3. Brendan Gallagher

Female Youth C1. Ellisa Bryant

2. Carmel Moran

3. Hannah Slaney

Male Youth C1. Angus Davidson

2. William Bosi

3. James Pope

The male veterans competition also took place on Saturday 15th. No female veterans entered hence there was no competition.

Male Veterans 1. Eddie Cooper

2. Mark Richardson

3. Nick Colton

Click here for full results of the junior BLCC

Senior Results

The senior BLCCs were held on the Sunday, 16th November.

In two really exciting finals, boulderer Dave Barrans pipped Ed Hamer. In the female final, last woman out, Shauna Coxsey, moved one hold past Nat Berry's high point to clip the lower-off to loud cheers. Totally absorbing!

Female Senior

1. Shauna Coxsey

2. Natalie Berry

3. Michaela Tracy

Male Senior

1. Dave Barrans

2. Ed Hamer

3. Luke Tilley

Click here for full results of the senior BLCC

Speed Climbing results

More information about the BLCCs and the BSCCs here

BMC thanks supporters

The BMC would like to thank all those who contributed to the success of the event. This includes the vast number of enthusiatic volunteers who do such a fantastic job. They judge, chaperone, belay, score the event, register competitors, allocate T-shirts, warm up competitors, run errands, and so on, the list is virtually endless. The event really couldn't take place without their outstanding and unstinting support. And, also, let's not forget the competitors themselves and all their numerous supporters!

Thanks also go to all the professionals who work at the event. This includes the owners and staff at EICA Ratho for making us feel so welcome and putting in a huge effort to make the final a success, the commentator Ian Smith, the route-setters for great routes, BMC staff both present at the event and those in the office who work behind the scenes.

And finally, thanks to all the sponsors who supported both the BMC in putting on this event. These include EICA, Mammut, and Entre-prises.

By Nick Colton



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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FULL OF MYSELF... Johnny Dawes book Launch
21 October 2011, 6:05 pm



FULL OF MYSELF

"Written with devoted passion and brutal honesty, Full of Myself  lays bare Johnny's bipolar mix of privilege and pain, wizardry and dysfunction. Master of friction and momentum, the living embodiment of poetry in motion turns his hand to pen with great effect."

Leo Houlding

"It's brilliant - frank, funny, telling his full life story, not just the climbing.  And the climbing accounts are riveting as well. A great read from cover to cover."

Sir Chris Bonington

"Much like his climbing, his imagination leaps.  This is a beautiful book about an extraordinary person.  William Blake with sticky boots."

Simon Beaufoy (Academy Award Winning Screen Writer - Slum Dog Millionaire, Full Monty, 127 Hours)

"I don't climb, I ride bikes, but this book got me by the balls!!!"

Steve Peat (World Downhill Mountainbike champion)

"Johnny always seemed some kind of freak from the very first picture of him I ever saw. I could see positive freakiness that made him go out of the ordinary, to climb those things that must be admired and that should inspire many to come."

Adam Ondra

To buy a hot off the press signed hardback copy, click on the Buy Now button.£25



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Training with the psyched female climber...
21 January 2012, 9:07 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The CamPUS - perhaps the biggest strength gains system..[/td][/tr]

[/table]Coaching the psyched female climber has become something I have found myself doing more and more over the last year. From a male coach's point of view; it is very interesting to visit the female climbing world from up close. It has struck me that the male climbing perspective is different in one main way:

The main difference is how male climbers' perceive the world of the psyched female boulderer or route climber:

The difference between a psyched female climber wanting to be the best she can and a psyched male climber is NADA ...NOTHING! And that seems to be the crux of the less motivated male to understand when in the company of a strong psyched female rock climber.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo squeezing the shit out of the granite bloc at Can Bouquet, near Barcelona![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Training session en Barcelona[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Another psyched Catalan climber at Sant Benet, Montserrat, Espana[/td][/tr]

[/table]Another interesting area is the CamPUS board, which is potentially the best system for delivering the highest climbing strength gains, yet in Scotland it is not used by both genders in a balanced way. This has nothing to do with the system, just the culture in the sport perhaps?

Female climbers seem more open to coaching in Scotland than males and I find the most exciting part of my personal coaching journey over the last few months is being placed alongside the female climber in a predominately male sport. Various issues are present but the initial level of courage that it takes to deal with having more attention on them than a guy at the local wall is a real factor that is present.

From my point of view it felt nearly as intense as being in a climbing competition environment with allot of eyes on us while we trained together over the last 2 months in Glasgow and Barcelona...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo at ReAch Climbing Coach doing finger strength work[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Marie on campus moves at ReAch for power[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Finger strength work on 45 board[/td][/tr]

[/table]

The machine: Amanda has a complete room in her home dedicated to her climbing training with 4 different boards at different angles and various systems training devices to keep her strong and maintain the combination of a hard training regime and a professional working life...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Amanda on a campus session at Ratho[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]la maquina sending her 7c project[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Amanda enjoying her other machine after board session in her house[/td][/tr]

[/table]

In the end, the determined athlete quickly breaks down these and many other barriers to succeed in their sport and I am extremely exited that Scotland has allot of strong female climbers and many more in the making especially with the new facilities that we have such as recently opened world class TCA Glasgow bouldering wall. VENGA!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]TCA Glasgow[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The female seniors final line up at the BLCCs  in EICA - October 2011[/td][/tr]

[/table]For further information on Reach Climbing Coach 1:1 coaching and training sessions in Scotland or Spain (Cataluña) please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com

"...working with Mark was a massively positive experience for me. Mark has a well known infectious mad psyche and belief in himself and his clients, it's really hard to fail in that environment". (Amanda Lyons)



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Inspiration...
22 January 2012, 5:00 pm



from Bamboo Chicken Productions on Vimeo.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Paul & JD[/td][/tr]

[/table]If I'm honest, I cried when I first saw this video of my two friends, whom I hadn't seen since the time of the photo below the video. Paul and Johnny are both great and inspiring people and I can only tip my hat to Paul for his awesome bravery and to Johnny for his openness and kindness... Such friends are always an inspiration to live bigger and try just a little harder... (Mark McGowan)



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Nuestro entrenador de escalada (Mark McGowan) estará disponible para 1:1 de formación y sesiones de entrenamiento en la región de Barcelona para febrero y marzo ...
25 January 2012, 1:07 pm







Nuestro entrenador de escalada (Mark McGowan) estará disponible para 1:1 de formación y sesiones de entrenamiento en la región de Barcelona para febrero y marzo ... en contacto con Mark markmcgowan01@gmail.com directa a preguntar por precios o concertar una reunión.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Montserrat, Cataluna[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Alex tirando con fuerza con el apoyo del entrenador![/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td] el duo de locos!Sant Benet, Montserrat[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jo demostrando un buen talon en f7a en Can Bouquet puede cerca de Barcelona[/td][/tr]

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Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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The 'Mind' of a project...
11 February 2012, 11:58 am

Recently I was flattered to be recognized by an awesome Spanish female climber and trainer who is rigorous in her study of the training for sport climbing. (http://www.facebook.com/evalopezriv/posts/2904009751866)



Eva Lopez has impressed me greatly, not just by her climbing (8c - that is amazing and stands for itself!) but by her approach to research and it is this which interests me allot for now.

Having the patience and strategic intent to do a great , in depth job of understanding a key element to improving one's climbing is something I have slowly began to try and unfold. Being in contact with Eva recently has certainly reminded me of how I need to be more long term minded about my climbing strategies especially to help me get to the next level and break a psychological barrier for myself.

This all got me thinking about my previous approach when I started back in 2010 with 6a to 8a and I just remembered the most important thing that drove the whole process... The project and my mindset that allowed me to complete it.

It just came back to me as I was thinking about my new project and the frustrations that are in the way (current elbow injury, 4 kilos of extra weight - which was intentional to train with in a bouldering environment since October BLCC's to increase my maximal strength but i over cooked it!), then I began to get that feeling again... that certain knowing feeling, when I am beginning to realize that I am going to do this project.., because I want it!

The importance of it for me, has to outweigh all the other things in my life for that period of the project and so, that is a big requirement for any human being, especially in this fast paced world full of things that are allowed to get in the way of staying focused on a particularly personal objective. But the answer before was for me to build my life around the project, not build the project around my life...

And so, I want to be trained over a sustainable period of the project that will allow me to make the changes and truly facilitate what needs to happen to my body to achieve the goal... Climb with much better climbers who have the experience, be motivated by them and trust in myself by making action in my daily life over wishful thinking.



I fell off a 7b in Cubells near Lleida with mi amiga from Monistrol when here at Christmas after my knee operation and although 8b just felt so far away then (still does now) I told her I needed to fall on a route since my operation, because only then could i begin to start trying hard again - trying close to my true limit.

The mind obviously drives this and it is the holder of motivation and the value that I have to place on achieving this goal, firstly has to make sense: The plan must be capable 'as a strategy for success' and address all the outcomes in it's path including my own weaknesses and self doubts. But I understand I have to have that singular simple belief that I will climb 8b and then, I use my head to get me there.

So for me, ocho b (8b) is not a number anymore..It's my new life and those 'chains' will be soooooooooooo sweet.. this i know, but the journey, the journey is what i love... Vamos!



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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La Obsesión - A film about Dani Andrada by Haroun Souirji
15 February 2012, 10:51 pm

from Haroun Souirji on Vimeo.



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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For Poland ...Trening dla maksymalnej sily palcow.(Maximal Finger Strength.)
17 February 2012, 10:31 pm









Thanks to my Polish friend Agnieszka, we now have our first Polish translated training doc available online for 5.00 EUROS payable via paypal.



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Stevie Haston drinks too much, is ugly, very fat and weak: Putting the right people around you...
21 February 2012, 10:18 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]A room with a view! [/td][/tr]

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 Stevie Haston drinks too much, is ugly, very fat and weak... These are words, his words, in his own house of training pain.

He is also an inspiring, conditioned athlete, who is strong... but I concur with him on the ugly as he is  not anywhere near as handsome as me...





 Inspiration:

I have never struggled to take this from others, but first you need to find them, then put them in your life.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruth[/td][/tr]

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I'm currently staying with the first British woman to climb 8b: Stunt woman - Ruth Jenkins and today, I visited my old friend, athlete and Alpiniste Stevie Haston for a very specific reason...

• to help me with my rehab
• to help me prepare and condition to train to a new level
• to provide with good direction in my training  and analyse my weaknesses
• to inspire

He scored me on the following:

• Flex 0/10
• Core 2/10
• Fingers  crimp strength 6/10
• Open handed 3/10
• Dumbness 2/10

Now, there is no point going to someone who just tell you lies, but a 6 for crimp strength... that hurt!







Uncovering weakness honestly is the first most important tactic in designing a training strategy  because it is this that leverages obvious improvements quickly. Then the smart stuff needs to be designed that services the project requirements (in my case 8b) and the individuals capacity to cope with the training volumes and intensities.

So today, I have gone a step further in my quest. Now i need to search for my sexy new best friend for 2012... she is called the proyecto and she goes by the name of 8b! venga!

Entrenamiento: encadenar a 8b



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Stevie Haston Joins ReAch Climbing Coach!
22 February 2012, 9:43 pm





I drove up the mountain today to meet a friend and a true inspiration to me as a trainer to discuss coaching in the UK, coaching in Spain, coaching in the Pyrenees and finally coaching in Malta!. I first met Stevie when I was 17 in Wales and as someone who has always personaly loved training as much as climbing, Stevie is like THE Boss in training. His experience is a given but we are both agreed on the concept of change that climbing coaching is embarking upon and I am delighted to anounce his joining  ReAch Climbing Coach.

I set off on this training journey in 2010 and tonight in a small village in the Pyrenees I am truly inpsired by the discussions, the plans and the outcome of having Stevie Haston (Alpiniste) join this great coaching journey...

http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/







Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Chaining 8b : the training journey so far...
3 March 2012, 10:52 am





Since making my mind up to train hard again towards chaining my 8b ambition this year, I have been focusing the priority on my elbow rehab first in combination with basic weight and fitness conditioning to get me fit enough to take a training pounding over the next 30 weeks or so.

Flexibility and lack of core fitness and strength are my obvious weaknesses as a climber and so I am focusing on these in particluar with stretching every day and working a little harder on core. I am more concerned right now with creating a flexiblity across my body first then i will build a stronger core through both training and climbing on approriately steep rock in coming weeks.  

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Most weeks are filled with easy route climbing to keep the head and fingers ticking over while I prepare the other areas and each day is filled with as much inspiration as i can un earth to drive me forward to ocho b...

I took a trip into Spain to visit a great friend and coach for a day in the Spanish Pirineos on a great canyon crag housing an awesome 7b. We used my red point strategies to help provide my friend with more structure in improving her approach to projecting and so we shaped the whole day around that single process of working for a red point instead of just trying something at your limit to see how you get on...

Prepare your day, your mind and your body then you will produce a better performance and ultimately succeed in red pointing the project at your true limit instead of some miss informed percieved limit.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]http://lisiroig.blogspot.com/[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mi amiga  Sonia using ReAch red point strategy on her 7b proyecto[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]sonia feliz en su paraíso Pirineos![/td][/tr]

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Then it was down into Barcelona to meet the cool guys from JM Climbing to discuss the Eva Lopez Transgression and Progression systems to help me train to 8b. Having studied the training strategy I have worked out my plan with the system and it looks like I will opt for the following:

• A first phase of a  5 week block on Maximal Strength Development
• 2 week rest
• second phase of 8 week Strength Endurance phase
• 2 week rest
• 8 week Advanced Maximal Strength phase
• 2 week rest
• 8 week Advanced Strength Endurance phase

But before this, I prepare my body for conditioning to take on a 35 week program here in Pirineos but first hopefully off to Malta with Stevie Haston to get me climbing fit and open some new cliffs for the Malta Climbing Club ...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Back over into the Pirineos de Francia[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Rehab, preparations and mas estudiar[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Midnight runs when it's cool in the Pyrenees near Foix[/td][/tr]

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[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]http://www.maltaclimbingclub.com/stevie-haston-on-route-development-in-malta/[/td][/tr]

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Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Report on MCofS Coaching Induction
5 March 2012, 11:35 pm

Sunday the 4th March saw Scottish coaches descend on Perth High School for the first MCofS Coaches Gathering & Induction.  The event was attended by coaches, who are active within the varied Scottish Youth Development scene, as well as Area Youth Coordinators.  The ethos of this event was to provide an opportunity for professionals to come together and share ideas, observe coaching techniques & discuss up and coming initiatives the MCofS aim to deliver over the coming months.  The gathering also served as an opportunity to introduce the current 3 tier MCofS Youth Coaching Structure [Aspirant Coach, Assistant Coach & Full Coach], outlining the job descriptions of each post & explaining the pathways [i.e. shadowing & training] in place to progress through the structure.  



The day kicked off with talks from;

• Tony McClelland [Head of Outdoor Education - Perth High School].  Discussing the story of climbing within the school set up.  Explaining how the came about obtaining such a great climbing facility & how this has grown in to one of the most successful regional climbing development initiatives in Scotland.
• Neil McGeachy [ReAch Coaching & MCofS Scottish Team Coach].  Discussing the roles of MCofS, its coaches & setters in the development of Scottish Team members.  Also discussing the MCofS Youth Development Ethos of promoting increased pathways in to the outdoors for climbers of all levels and ages.  Aiming to promote varied and active life long futures within the sport for our country's young climbers.
• Neill Busby [MCofS British Team Representative].  Discussing how MCofS works to help nurture & support our country's elite young climbers.  He talked about coaching support, previous & current success stories & future ambitions.

These talks provided a great over view of how healthy all levels of youth development within Scottish climbing are.  They also illustrated how well these levels serve in supporting each other and provide clear logical support pathways in the climbing journey;  

• Numbers are up in all Scottish competitions,
• Regional youth clubs and performance squads are popping up all over the place,
• The school climbing competitions scene is growing massively and beginning to feed the Youth Climbing Series
• Outdoor Real Rock Initiatives are being better attended than ever
• We have enjoyed an 8 year period of producing many of the UK's most successful International competitors.  Currently holding 9 slots on the British Junior Climbing Squad.

This continued growth and development means more than ever we need a diverse and extensive pool of MCofS performance coaches to draw from & also require a strategy in place to begin the process of bringing through future coaches & making the whole set up more sustainable long term.  This Gathering & Induction was the beginning of this process.

After the talks the coaches were given time to study the hand outs provided on 'Training guidelines for YCS Finalists'.  These documents offered info on MCofS & ReAch's stance on appropriate training & injury avoidance when coaching young performance climbers.  The day then progressed to a series of short coaching workshops delivered by a selection of assistant coaches & full coaches on the MCofS coaching program.

Coaching Workshops Delivered;

Pamela Miller - Coaching route reading & sequence memory

Neill Busby - Balance & body positioning on steep ground

Ian Sneddon - Variety of uses of Add on in coaching

Natalie Berry - Competition Tactics

Ross Kirkland - Activities for coaching precise footwork

Ross Hunter - Using video analysis in coaching

Neil McGeachy - Coaching momentum & advance balance techniques

The day rounded up with an opportunity for every one to have a group discussion on the role of coaching within youth development & how we can build on the success the current set up.  All in all today was a great success and as a member of the MCofS coaching team for more than 12 years, it was extremely rewarding to see so many of the aspirants, assistants & coaches in attendance being young climbers who have progressed through the set up as talented climbers themselves.  Thus showing the on going culture of Scottish Climbers putting something back into the development of the sport.  Very exciting times lies ahead.



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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The MCofS and ReAch Climbing Coach:  Fontainebleau Bouldering October 15th – 19th 2012
9 March 2012, 5:27 pm

Cost £150

The MCofS and ReAch Climbing Coaching are arranging a youth coaching event in Fontainebleau, one of the worlds most popularbouldering destinations. This will be from October 15^th-19^th(during the Scottish School Holiday) and is being organised and delivered by Neill Busby, Mark McGowan and Gaz Vincent.



The Fontainebleau bouldering meet is beingsupported by the MCofS by providing elite coaches for the 4 days of coachingduring the 5 day event. The cost to cover coaching is £150 per child - £37.50/day.

Aims:

Our aim is to introduceparticipants to the best bouldering that Fontainebleauhas to offer. Each day our coaches will run workshops on various techniques andtactics needed to climb on the famous sandstone boulders. Our other aim is toprovide coaching and advice to parents to encourage more independence to getoutside more. We expect all the adults / parents to take an active role in theevent, coaches will help parents understand etiquette and safety issues atcrags where their children will be climbing.

Parent / CoachResponsibility:

Whilst on the meet, thecoaches are responsible for the safety of the kids (and you!) when beingcoached at the crag (or its approach). At all other times you are responsiblefor your own and your child’s safety and wellbeing, as well as their behaviour.

Booking Your Place:

If you are interested pleasesend the attached application form to MCofS either via email (to: admin@mcofs.org.uk) or by post, to bookyour place. Can you please indicate your method of payment.

Once we have the minimumnumbers required to make the event viable we shall notify you and confirm themeet will go ahead you will be able to book flights and accommodation.

Consent:

Please fill in theattached Consent Form and return by email to me. If you have already completedand sent in a MCofS Consent Form there is no need to complete another one, but pleaseindicate on the application form any changes that might be required.

Please note:

• Applications     must be sent back only to MCS either by email to admin@mcofs.org.uk, or by post.
• Payment     for the coaching can be made by phone, PayPal or cheque to MCofS.
• Confirmation     will be returned by email (or post) by Jane at MCS office.
• A     Parent (and their child attending the event) must sign a MCofS consent     form (please simply insert you names when replying by email and date it).     A parent must take responsibility for the child(s) behaviour at all times     when not climbing. The coaches are responsible for the child whilst being     coached.
• If     someone else is taking responsibility for your child at the event they     must be indicated on the form.
• Climbers     need to bring their own personal climbing equipment (rock shoes, chalk     bag, harness, belay plate, rope and helmet).
• General     information is contained in the attached Parental Information document.
• Finally,     I draw your attention to the MCofS Code of Conduct expected at our events.

Resources:

• Events Protocol
• Coaching Events Consent Form

Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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REAL-ROCK TRAD TRIP
12 March 2012, 8:44 am



Scotland North-West:

We will spend a week climbing sea cliffs in the north-west which may include Reiff, Rhue,Sheigra .

Mountain scrambles or multi -pitch climbs at Stac Pollaidh, Cul Mor,or Cul Beag

Bouldering at Rhue, Ardmair, Reiff

the list is endless!

This course will run from mon 2nd of July until fri 6th of July.

Four days climbing ,coaching and instruction .

One day rest/bad weather day.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Photo: James Dunn[/td][/tr]

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COURSE DISCRIPTION

This course will mainly focus on traditional climbing.

Gear placements

Building belays

Leading and seconding trad routes.

Manageing risk.

Onsight tactics.

Technique on rock

Route reading

Long term development pathway.

Abseiling

with additional options for scrambling, multi-pitch,bouldering,gorge walking and hill-walking.

This course will be delievered by Pamela Millar who is a Mountain Instructor ,loves climbing big remote mountain routes or multi-pitch sea cliff climbing.During the winter Pamela spends her time climbing Scottish mix and ice climbing .

Neil McGeachy - National team coach & passionate Scottish Trad Climber will be on hand to offer tip and techniques on performance on the sharp end.

9AM TILL 5PM EACH DAY .

Spaces for 8 kids (with a parent/gardian)

Price  :    £150 per child

Ratio 1:4

Equipment required.... harness, rock shoes, chalk, helmet, waterproofs(jacket +trousers), walking boots or shoes,warm clothes ,sun tan lotion, midge repellent.



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

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Why ReAch?...Malta
12 March 2012, 12:00 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Malta new route gear[/td][/tr]

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When I first came up with the idea of ReAch Climbing Coach, I was sure of one thing... I knew that I knew NOTHING!

...and from there, I have been training, learning, coaching, researching, training, coaching, learning and of course climbing!

It's easy to get lost in your own self and not maintain a life long learning philosophy which, for me, is the most important part of coaching. I reckon it will take me another 2 years before I feel qualified in myself to deliver the most exceptional coaching experience and that is what I search for...

For me, ReAch is not a brand, a company but a PHILOSOPHY... an adventure for the coaches and the lucky members of 'fight club' searching for more from themselves, taking inspiration from others, working hard with the training tools made available, learning to train harder on their own, creating an online record that becomes a map to success and learning to be brave and get more from themselves... being the best YOU can be and not accepting compromise in your life!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Working with what you have got and staying focused...[/td][/tr]

[/table] When I trained for 8a in 6 months in 2010 I was restricted by my equipment and capacity to upgrade, but I can tell you with 100% honesty that when my old boots wore out that I was prepared to train harder for the 8a so that I could take more weight on my fingers and tape my shoes with gaffa tape if i had to to send the project. This is just about being focused... knowing you can and will do it...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]taking time out for solitude and reflection and some soft rock loving[/td][/tr]

[/table] Finding a crag or a place that is just your little space where when times get hard and the training seems difficult, then you can go there and chill right out... important... find your place.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Setting targets[/td][/tr]

[/table] Setting simple achievable, variable goals.. a must. simple!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]take inspiration from others... Bund Ninja 3 on his

(8c+) Blood Diamond before he got 'Hungry'![/td][/tr]

[/table] taking inspiration from others. I was lucky enough to meet Malcolm S and others who had the same work ethic and appreciation of training as me (though Malcolm is world class!). Taking inspiration is a must, without that you wont push through and get more from yourself like what you see in others.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]1980's training logbook[/td][/tr]

[/table]Being consistant is everything.. My old training logs are not relevant in the modern context but they were the inspiration that reminded me of how consitant I was in my training and focus for being as good in climbing as I could....Consistancy

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]working on your own ...rope solo at Dunkeld[/td][/tr]

[/table]Sometimes, I wanted to climb and work a route when no one was available or the weather wasn't the best... being project minded allows one to put the real effort into getting soemthing done, because focus is there every day when i looked at my online program.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Walking into the lions den knowing you cant win this time...BLCC's 2011[/td][/tr]

[/table] This is the most important element for me, being brave and trying knowing you might fail this time....

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 Please contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for details of our unique Dual Factor online programs, 1:1 training contracts and coaching sessions.

Mark will be available for coaching sessions on Malta from 14th to 31st March.





Source: Reach Climbing Coach