[comPiler]

March Madness at the TCA Glasgow ...Sunday the 18th...
16 March 2012, 3:48 pm



Some of you may have caught wind via UKClimbing.com or the entry on our events page that on March the 18th TCA Glasgow are having a big open day.   This is an amazing opportunity to try TCA free of charge.  Not only that but there will be a whole host of other tempting reasons to come and sample the wall that has brought a real buzz to the Scottish climbing scene.  

• Free Technique and Training advice from Gaz Parry and Alan Cassidy
• Free to enter mini competitions for beginners, intermediates and experts with lots of prizes including Bristol's legendary Grope the Slope contest!
• Raffle prizes
• 30% off a range of Moon clothing
• 15% off in the TCA Shop generally
• Ellis Brighams sale stand

This is a fantastic opportunity to find out what TCA is all about, learn how bouldering can help improve your traditional route and sport climbing abilities, pick up some great value equipment and who knows you may even walk away with a prize.You don’t need to bring your wallet but don’t forget we’ll also be selling great coffee, perfect pizzas and awesome cakes! If you aren’t already a member we’ll still need you to sign one of our membership forms and to comply with our terms and conditions.  You can only do this if you’re an experienced, competent climber, who can operate safely in a climbing wall.  If you want to sign children in, we’ll require you to become a paid up member first (£10) but we won’t charge you or the children the entry fee.  More info about the day will be released on our blog and Facebook pages over the coming days.  Stay tuned!

Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Having your period!
21 March 2012, 7:00 pm

Periodization or working to a 'peak' is something that most climbers

who maybe aren't progressing as well as they would like, tend not to

engage properly in.Its a strategic approach and therefore tactics and results aren't

always obvious nor instant.It is not really about the chosen moment or exact timing of the 'peak'

that makes the big difference in performance. It's obviously the

training that has gone before and wither one has sacraficed weekly,

monthly or quarterly performance for the sake of THE chosen peak

period.Training over the top of everything (even other training - Dual Factor

Theory) is a tough environment to stay in for a substantial time. 1

month/ 30 days, 3 months/90 days, 6 months/180 days.Every day some part of your body is being worked while other parts are

in pain recovering. Its hard and that's why few really do it.Training in a periodized environment is just training in a focused way

that maximises the time , to get the biggest benefits from the

application of processes that are in a particular order culminating in

a volume taper against an increase in intensity and finally a peak.Eg for me the order is:1. Strength training

2. Power

3. Power EnduranceBut it's this stuff which I think builds the improvement through focus

and consistancy and develops increased performance.Others may mix and intertwine their strength with power with PE but I

mostly prefer to isolate.Rest and recovery is obviously a key part  of a strategic training

environment and is one of the hardest parts to manage due to the urge

to keep training instead of recovering to a physical peak state...

Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Chaining 8b : Staying on the path... on Gozo Island
2 April 2012, 10:13 pm





 Inspiration is what I sought out in Gozo Island and that is what I have come back to the Pirineos with... Inspired by Stevie Haston, his island and his dedication to his sport and himself as an elite athlete in climbing.

Stevie invited me over to Gozo along with Simon Alden of the Malta Climbing Club to assist in the opening of a new cliff (The Under World) and for some more basic bolting on other great cliffs to try and create more climbing for all to enjoy on the beautiful island of Gozo next to Malta.



When I left we had bolted 15 pitches across the island ranging from 5+ to potentially 8b+ or harder (depending on the outcome). We have bolted possibly the biggest roof climb in the world and Stevie is now in training to get his endurance levels up to speed to cope with routes gigantic proportions... I haven't seen anything like this in my life and when he completes it, I am sure it will end up as a historic piece of climbing in keeping with Stevie's taste for the best and biggest of climbs on a world stage.

We finished the trip with a short film for the Malta Tourist Association by Bryan Azzopardy of us climbing a beautiful piece of rock which was possibly one of the best climbs I have done...my favorite.. the arete.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Equipping the biggest Roof in the world (Stevie's Roof!)[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]FA Super Furry Animals[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Simon giving perspective to a new cliff that is next for development[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Bus Stop training![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]JM Climbing[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]FA of The Gift of Small Things

Photo: Simon Alden[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Hatson & Mark McGowan - Gozo

Screen Grabs from video footage by Bryan Azzopardy.

Climbing Promo Production for the MTA [/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan - Gozo

Screen Grabs from video footage by Bryan Azzopardy.

Climbing Promo Production for the MTA [/td][/tr]

[/table]Transition to Transgression:

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Time for some Transgression[/td][/tr]

[/table]

The transition from conditioning on the road in the Pirineos to climbing on moderately easy routes on Gozo has hopefully prepared my capacity to train my fingers now on the Eva Lopez Transgression system to take my finger strength and finger power endurance up to where they need to be for 8b... I have bolted it up to the beam in the barn and so..,we begin.

Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Eva Lopez Finger Boards & JM Climbing holds coming to UK market
4 April 2012, 2:06 pm



Whilst based in the Spanish and French border of the Pyrenees, our ReAch coach Mark McGowan has also been working in his capacity as a consultant with the innovative manufacturer of Eva Lopez new Finger board systems: Progression & Transgression which is produced by JM Climbing in Barcelona. The combination of the Eva Lopez 6 year PHD study and JMClimbing's manufacturing experience have produced a training system and finger board concept that is so innovative and so  has been produced under copyright.

Mark is combining his own vision of colaborating ReAch Climbing Coach with a hold manufactrer to take bespoke climbing coaching to a new level and JM Climbing have what it takes...

"As well as having Eva Lopez on as a researcher and consultant to their company, JM Climbing have developed the highest quality of training holds that I have seen, where the core material is less succeptable to humidity : This is key in a training environment where it is a huge problem for skin which in turn produces an un-neccessary compromise to a training session.

My vision for ReAch Climbing Coach goes far beyond what people are experiencing today in the UK in a climbing coached environment and it is great that they are coming over to the UK and I am delighted to help that process."  

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan in Island of Gozo with Stevie Haston[/td][/tr]

[/table]

JM Climbing have a whole range of innovative climbing products and are currently looking for UK sales agents to partner with for May 2012 onwards. If you are in the trade with a proven client relationship with major UK specialist retailers then please contact in the first instance Mark at markmcgowan01@gmail.com











Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Going for double figures...The big 10!
14 April 2012, 6:17 am

Over the Pyrenees down into Spain

The route from Pyrenees to Siurana

When I arrived from over the Pyrenees at our annual Siurana ReAch Coaching Week I wasn't really perpared for how the week would end.

My team of Ninjas was Ben, Loui and Jamie, all from different parts of Scotland (Aberdeen, Edinburgh and Oban) and all of differing ages from 9 upwards.

The coaching began with the usual process of getting the kids to relax and get used to me and each other whilst the parents watched in trepidation making sure their little ones were in 'good' (or at worst 'safe' hands!).

Eventually climbing standards, individual charactoristics and strengths and weaknesses began to emerge. Eventually some scope for coaching emerged and eventually an increase in personal bests and celebrations of successes began to emerge with goals being met and surpassed by some.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mandy and son Jamie[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Loui and Jamie enjoying their leading...[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The Ben & Mark show![/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]

[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td]

But today Saturday (sabado) our final day will be renamed to 'Loui-day' after our team ninja Loui from Edinburgh who's selfless, quiet persistence saw him find the confidence to climb better and bring smiles to his mates the other ninjas who's week had already been made by their worthy attack on their big 7a.

Young Jamie from Oban has showed great inteligence in his climbing and this is reflected through his ability to read the moves quickly and climb at a pace that impressed me and the other Ninjas.

However, young Ben from Aberdeen (aged 9) really impressed me with his unwavering determinationation to keep trying and each time his father (Gus) and I suggested he might need to consider coming down, he just downright refused to give up.

An absolute inspiration to me and when I asked Ben what age he was, he told me:  " I am only 9.., but I am shooting for double figures soon.., soon I will be 10.., the BIG time!"

[/td][/tr][tr][td]"Going for double figures...The BIG 10!"[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Entrenamiento ahora para mi 8b
21 April 2012, 9:55 am

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]beginning of finger strength training again[/td][/tr]

[/table]After completing  my 1st Malta bolting rock trip with Stevie Haston and our annual ReAch/MCofS coaching week in Siurana in Spain, I am back in the Pyrenees and starting to train again in a structured way with the new Transgression system.

For my long term project of a route called Metis (8b) at Genat here in the Pyrenees I am just about ready to start opening the page on this and am really exited about the journey. It is not an easy 8b and in fact I haven't found any of the routes here easy, so I am certainly going to get my moneys worth from this proyecto. I Don't expect to be able to do the moves on the first time b2b but hopefully after a few sessions, the sequences will open up and later small links will quickly emerge. It's 30m, so, it will require a lot of mental endurance and time as I am not yet 8b fit.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Genat[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Had some good days on the Pyrenees rock with some old skool legends such as Craig Smith and I always take inspiration from guys like that. It's what's in their head that makes them great climbers, and that's what you see when your out with them. Always giving harder routes a go without too much questioning or ego. The truly great climbers are like that (I have found).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Lob sessions with DJ Smith[/td][/tr]

[/table]My friends at TCA in Glasgow are sending over some small campus rungs that I use on a board to develop a final phase of higher contact strength - so the baron is looking like a big torture chamber with finger boards, weights and a woody waiting for the same treatment I gave Garths in Scotland when preparing for 6 weeks running into the BLCC's in October last year.

The answer for me in training is to maximize the time training, the intensity of the output and the recovery work and life planning that makes the bigger projects come true in your life... I can tell you today, that I am a little too heavy, too weak and a little afraid of failure for this 8b and my first few tries will be very messy and emotionally hard, but I can also tell you this now...it's definitely going to be mine! ALL MINE!







Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Ariege  8b Project... getting my ass handed to me...
15 May 2012, 8:50 pm

I've been on the route a few more times now with short morning sessions spread over weeks with some great life of the Pirineos thrown in between.

Went with steel fingers into Spain for some climbing with an accidental near onsight of an awesome 7c  then a quick b2b on an 8a+  after a 7b pump from hell at Collegats to see how it compared to my Genat project. Felt two full grades easier, so I'm happy that this project will take me some time and get me closer to 8c which is where I want to be next year.



























The project still seems miles away but slowly through short objective focused morning sessions, I am slowly tidying up moves and clips and inching things in the right direction. It feels like a crucial time for me now where I have had my 5th short session with seemingly no progress from 4th to 5th. But I know I must keep turning up with a

small plan each time and slowly but surely it will begin to take shape and become 4 links, 3 links, 2 links and finally chaining my first 8b. Plenty of time for here, as "time is not money for us, just time"...

The Ugly Twat returns from Gozo Island in next few days, so no doubt he will frighten me into getting things the way they need to be.

Got some holds from JM Climbing to simulate some key sequences on the board at steel finger's barn to help hone some specific moves and get back on Transgression board now that I'm here for a while.  Working

harder on flexibility and learning to use my feet and legs on rock properly after 15 years!





Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Sabart with Satin!
20 May 2012, 3:28 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Satin's kind donation for my lessons in 'heels and toe hooks' at Sabart [/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Satin[/td][/tr]

[/table]Just had my first lesson in technical roof climbing with my Satanic Coach on a superb 8a classic at the Grotte de Sabart in the Ariege.

This is something I have been terrible at as my background was very much fingery wall climbing with big run-outs onsight and never really found myself on such ground until yesterday.  I got my obligatory flash attempt out the way after Satin showed me his sequence and managed to get where most mortals come off in a mix of core fatigue and general confusion. This place is awesome and these routes are so technical where you are climbing feet forward for about 40% of the time,.. if your not then you are probably doing it wrong!

[tr][td]

[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hastons at Sabart[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Laurence Gouault Haston training at Sabart[/td][/tr]

[/table]







After my go the other Haston (the nice one!) showed me her sequence and then I watched Satin on his new project (9?) which looked so futuristic. A great day and a place where i am begining all over again in climbing.

This was after a day on Metis (8b+) at Genat where I managed to apply some of the beta to my sequence and hopefully helped a fine young local by assisting/coaching him up a route that one day I am sure he will send like a dream...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jon Stoelker at Genat (7c+)[/td][/tr]

[/table]



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Catching the train... The motivation train.
27 May 2012, 7:43 am









Watching my friend Ruth find climbing again is great for me as a coach and a climber. As the first British female climber to climb 8b, she is now running a Gite in the Pyrenees, a mother to two great young boys, a stunt woman for Hollywood movies such as Batman and an IML (International Mountain Leader). Finding a motivation to train is always the key and the project is usually the driver for this. Will be great to see where Ruth finds enjoyment in her climbing out here in the Ariege.





Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Relaxing your way up 8a+ at Sabart
1 June 2012, 2:49 pm

I have been using new techniques at Sabart cave where I am simply

focusing on 2 simple things:

* the quality of the burn I am having on the route as I focus on

trying to increase my fitness

* how relaxed I can be in the foot and core movements in between the

ordinary f7a crux moves.

This has lead to a new climbing state of mind and body for me and when

I'm a good boy and concentrate on those 2 things, I seem to get a

prize...they call it the red point or enchaining. I expect if I do

another set of sessions well then I will be gifted a nice +, then when

I can warm up on this, I will move to the next place... The full crag

sessions. How very relaxing!

Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Ruth Jenkins joins ReAch as our first female coach from the Pyrenees
7 June 2012, 9:01 pm



We are really proud to announce that Ruth is jjoining our Coaching network out here in the Pyrenees. Ruth was the 1st British woman to climb 8b and 4th in the world at the time and has  wealth of coaching experience as well as being a qualified IML. Besides this and being a mother of two, she is also a Hollywood Stunt woman with credits such as BATMAN, HARRY POTTER and many more to her credit!

Ruth was also a Team coach for the British competition team a few years back and is renowed for her steely finger strength and great climbing technique. It is a great pleasure to welcome Ruth to our team of Elite coaches and her joining ReAch has again strengthened our internatiomal teamwith a clear focus on deliverying  high quality coaching service out here in the amazing climbing mecca that is the Pyrenees.

For coaching sessions and climbing holidays in the Ariege please contact Ruth directly  at her Gite or through ReAch at markmcgowan01@gmail.com









Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

The Job Application
9 June 2012, 6:26 pm





I have always tried to shoot at being the best i can be and when failure came along i took the big psychological falls, because thats what happens when you care about something.

I care about my climbing and learning to be the best coach I can be...

So I am learning to be coached at the moment by someone I trust to deliver me at the chains of what ever I end up being capable of in my climbing this year.

We have been religious in our training sessions at the crag, the processes and the after crag sessions on his systems up the hills in the Pyrenees doing weighted finger work and more core to build a new machine for the job i have applied for... the job being to maximize my climbing : It hurts you know, trying to be the best you can. we are only human which isnt really that great, but sometimes, your friends can find the best in you and your coach needs to be your friend to get the best from you. As friendship takes time, so does coaching...But for me, so does my understanding.... Patience...





Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

7's 8's and 9's...
18 June 2012, 8:40 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie on his project (9...)[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Laurence training on 8b+ at Sabart



The last few days have been a little weird in terms of focus and expectations in my climbing. Stevie and I have been doing some weighted finger pullups before hitting the crag sessions in the cave then returning for more power pulls on finger edges then some core work to finish things off. These are big training days that require some decent rest to recover and allow the muscles to repair.

So whilst i had a few consecutive rest days for some 'compensation' to take place, i tried to sneak some on sight climbing (flashing really as i saw beta on both routes!). Managed one to the chain and fell off high on an (8a). But I'm reasonably sure that our training sessions over the last few weeks have began to show some gains as i suspect I would have came off earlier on the 8a ground up and so I must stay the course with the current plan of building true depth to my climbing capacity to help me chain the upper 8's.

I've always thought I had reasonably strong fingers, but I was wrong. To take climbing to my next level, I need an increase of absolute finger strength by another 30% to 40% as well as a depth of physical fitness in my upper body and core to cope with a new level of goal that I seek this year.





So today, I went on the 8a, then the 8b+ then had my first two burns on a 9 then back to the 8a, then up the hill to satin's lab for 24 x 5 weighted finger pull ups and core. Now I have still only sent up to 8a+ this year, but I know I am probably 8b fit, but I think I am beginning to really wake up to what I want from this summer's climbing... 14 weeks to go yet! Then I am free from the coach to come flying out the gates in a delirious climbing frenzy!



[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Building a Power Endurance System: Fingers and core...
25 June 2012, 6:20 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Stretching - warm up[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruth Jenkins (at ReAch HQ, Ariege) setting some bloc moves for PE circuits[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Metis (8b+) at Genat, Ariege

(Photo: Ian Storey)[/td][/tr]

[/table]

After a month of reasonably intense route climbing in the Grotte de sabart with Stevie Haston, the sun has come out now and so some of the sessions have moved to the barn in the Farm house with Ruth. I have two major projects in the mix at the moment and both are completly different in style but share the same number (8b/8b+).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jon Stoelker  of Base Calames sending a 7b at Genat[/td][/tr]

[/table]Genat project is a fingery power endurance climb above a tufa and the other is a huge 28m roof climb called Reine de Sabart.  I want them both, but it will take more time as they are better than me at the moment...but they will fall when I have done the work and paid these great routes their dues... so it is time to start the systems in the barn while the sun is out and work with these two very different routes in mind...fingers and core, fingers and core...

Learned my core and new mental tehniques from Stevie and am now applying my own  PE system for the fingers in between learning more about each route when the weather is cooler.

My PE for the fingers is this:

Set 3 problems just above capability then work them until you can complete them with good rests between trys until the yield. Then begin timed rests until you can eventually link them as sets, then weight vest circuits. Then start again!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The Farm House Gite[/td][/tr]

[/table]



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Sabart with Satan!
20 May 2012, 3:28 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Satan's kind donation for my lessons in 'heels and toe hooks' at Sabart [/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Satan[/td][/tr]

[/table]Just had my first lesson in technical roof climbing with my Satanic Coach on a superb 8a classic at the Grotte de Sabart in the Ariege.

This is something I have been terrible at as my background was very much fingery wall climbing with big run-outs onsight and never really found myself on such ground until yesterday.  I got my obligatory flash attempt out the way after Satin showed me his sequence and managed to get where most mortals come off in a mix of core fatigue and general confusion. This place is awesome and these routes are so technical where you are climbing feet forward for about 40% of the time,.. if your not then you are probably doing it wrong!

[tr][td]

[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hastons at Sabart[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Laurence Gouault Haston training at Sabart[/td][/tr]

[/table]







After my go the other Haston (the nice one!) showed me her sequence and then I watched Satan on his new project (9?) which looked so futuristic. A great day and a place where i am begining all over again in climbing.

This was after a day on Metis (8b+) at Genat where I managed to apply some of the beta to my sequence and hopefully helped a fine young local by coaching him up a route that one day I am sure he will send like a dream...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jon Stoelker at Genat (7c+/8a)[/td][/tr]

[/table]



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Finger Strength Training System by Eva Lopez now available in UK
13 July 2012, 4:56 pm





The innovative system developed by Spainsh Coach Eva Lopez and JM Climbing of Barcelona has finally made it into British soil and is now available for UK climbers at The Lakeland Climbing Centre and online at their store (http://www.kendalwall.co.uk/news-a-events/item/progression-and-transgression-hangboards-now-in-stock)

ReAch Climbing Coach have been testing the system in the Pyrenees and working to bring this innovative training board an methodology to the UK and are pleased that the product has finally landed in the UK for purchase.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruth Jenkins[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Haston & Mark McGowan

Photo: Laurence Gauoult Haston[/td][/tr]

[/table]

For UK Trade Sales then please contact Chris Gore at  verticalventures@talktalk.net or for Strategic Marketing contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (Pyrenees & Barcelona).





Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Finger StrengthTraining System by Eva Lopez now available in UK
13 July 2012, 4:56 pm





The innovative system developed by Spainsh Coach Eva Lopez and JM Climbing of Barcelona has finally made it into British soil and is now available for UK climbers at The Lakeland Climbing Centre and online at their store (http://www.kendalwall.co.uk/news-a-events/item/progression-and-transgression-hangboards-now-in-stock)

ReAch Climbing Coach have been testing the system in the Pyrenees and working to bring this innovative training board and methodology to the UK and are pleased that the product has finally landed in the UK for purchase.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Haston & Mark McGowan

Photo: Laurence Gouault Haston[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruth Jenkins[/td][/tr]

[/table]

For UK Trade Sales then please contact Chris Gore at  verticalventures@talktalk.net or for Strategic Marketing contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com (Pyrenees & Barcelona).





Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Building a Power Endurance System: Fingers...
25 June 2012, 6:20 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Stretching - warm up[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruth Jenkins (at ReAch HQ, Ariege) setting some bloc moves for PE circuits[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Metis (8b+) at Genat, Ariege

(Photo: Ian Storey)[/td][/tr]

[/table]After a month of reasonably intense route climbing in the Grotte de sabart with Stevie Haston, the sun has come out now and so some of the sessions have moved to the barn in the Farm house with Ruth. I have two major projects in the mix at the moment and both are completly different in style but share the same number (8b/8b+).

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Jon Stoelker  of Base Calames sending a 7b at Genat[/td][/tr]

[/table]Genat project is a fingery power endurance climb above a tufa and the other is a huge 28m roof climb called Reine de Sabart.  I want them both, but it will take more time as they are better than me at the moment...but they will fall when I have done the work and paid these great routes their dues... so it is time to start the systems in the barn while the sun is out and work with these two very different routes in mind...fingers and core, fingers and core...

Learned my core and new mental tehniques from Stevie and am now applying my own  PE system for the fingers in between learning more about each route when the weather is cooler.

My PE for the fingers is this:

• Set 3 problems just above capability then work them until you can complete them with good rests between trys until they yield.
• Then begin timed rests until you can eventually link them as sets,
• Then weight vest circuits... Then start again!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]The Farm House Gite[/td][/tr]

[/table]



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Stevie Haston Master Class at Grotte de Sabart,  to help me complete a climbing dream.
31 July 2012, 8:56 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Haston working his current 9a+ project at Sabart[/td][/tr]

[/table] As a person who has coached other climbers, I am aware of the processes to try and help others but it began to come to my attention that my own climbing knowledge was limited and more importantly I have always wanted to climb at my true potential (at least for a bit!).

Trying to understand what you are capable of is not something you really understand yourself... Others have to see it in you and have the ability to facilitate and support that process. So whenI first stumbled across my friend here in the Pyrenees I initially thought wouldnt it be great to have Stevie Haston associated with ReAch Climbing Coach.

Now stupidity and short sighted behaviour has never been far from me! It has eventually become more and more obvious to me that I missed the real opportunity...

Stevie has coached and advised world class talent in the international climbing scene for many years and here I was getting it wrong! So, recently, I took up the batton and have given myself over to the training, coaching and advice of Stevie to help me be the best I can be in climbing this year.

Stevie's climbing profile is too long to list here... so try here!A training DVD is being developed with Stevie and I and through this process we are un picking all the elements that make us the best we can be in climbing. My return from 6a to 8a was well catalogued (and hard at the time to achieve) but really, what is more exciting for both of us is for me to learn to train and climb at my real limit and for Stevie to push his own limit again, again and again!

If you wish to contact Stevie Haston directly  for online coaching and or 1 to 1 here in the Pyrenees then email him at stevie.haston@orange.fr  also see him at http://steviehaston.blogspot.fr/







Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Online Dual Factor Training Program
4 August 2012, 4:10 am

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Haston  Elite Coaching session at Sabart[/td][/tr]

[/table]

We are currently canvasing for 5 UK clients using our new online Dual Factor Training Program begining the month September to December.

We are looking to take on 5 clients with a grade range from 6a to 7c who aspire to improve by 3 grades. If this is you then please contact Mark McGowan or Stevie Haston to discuss our 4 month program costing £200.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan at Sabart[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com or stevie.haston@orange.fr for more details...





Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

New Online Training Program
4 August 2012, 4:10 am

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Stevie Haston  Elite Coaching session at Sabart[/td][/tr]

[/table]

We are currently canvasing for 5 UK clients using our new online Training Program begining the month September to December.

We are looking to take on 5 clients with a grade range from 6a to 7c who aspire to improve by 3 grades. If this is you then please contact Mark McGowan or Stevie Haston to join our initial 4 month program costing £200.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan at Sabart[/td][/tr]

[/table]

Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com or stevie.haston@orange.fr for more details...





Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Dual Factor Online Training Program - September Start
4 August 2012, 4:10 am



We are currently canvasing for 5 UK clients using our new online Dual Factor Training Program begining the month September to December.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan working Metis (8b+), Genat[/td][/tr]

[/table]

We are looking to take on 5 clients with a grade range from 6a to 7c who aspire to improve by around 2/3 grades. If this is you then please contact Mark McGowan to join our initial 4 month program costing £200.

Contact markmcgowan01@gmail.com for more details...

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Bouldering at Targasonne, Pyrenees[/td][/tr]

[/table]ALL PLACES FILLED FOR SEPTEMBER TEAM...



Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Re-visiting the fingers with some Johnny Walker!
16 August 2012, 8:04 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Johnny Walker (8a) Calames: Photo Jon Stoelker [/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Johnny Walker (8a) Calames: Photo Jon Stoelker [/td][/tr]

[/table]The thing about climbing is that you have to look after all the elements to avoid losing them. Fingery wall climbing is so specific to one muscle group that you must keep the level up or you will lose it quickly.

I have been working a great roof in the Grotte de Sabart recently and have found myself getting out onto other rock again with expectations of greatness but allas the fingers have not been getting what they needed in the cave to keep the power endurance levels up on fingery hanging walls or maybe they have and it is just an adjustment of technique that is required or it is just too hot to crimp!?

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Johnny Walker (8a) Calames: Photo Jon Stoelker [/td][/tr]

[/table]I want more from my climbing than just specializing in a single style. But I have to say that the Grotte de Sabart sessions were the most enlightening sport climbing experience of my life in opening my eyes on how to adjust my climbing style and mental approach..

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Johnny Walker (8a) Calames: Photo Jon Stoelker[/td][/tr]

[/table]To climb 8b for Dyspraxia is my goal this year and to try and build a new life around the things & people I really value here... It seems an endless task right now but I'm sure it will all be enchained when everything is in it's place.





Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Cave Climbing at Grotte de Sabart, Ariege
20 August 2012, 7:09 pm

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td] Red pointing (8a) Grotte de Sabart - Photo: Craig Smith[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td][/t][/t][/t]

Red pointing (8a) Grotte de Sabart - Photo: Craig Smith

[/table]Roof climbing for me was always a nemisis as I was a face climber through and through... even got that nick name in my teens but having been shown some lessons by Stevie Haston on how to learn about the upside down rock and how to slow down the process so that a seamless ascent makes initially unachievable...achievable with work and patience: I can genuinely say that this has been the biggest piece of personal climbing tuition I have had since I started back in 2010.

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Craig Smith on (8a) Grotte de Sabart. Photo: Mark McGowan[/td][/tr]

[/table]

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Craig Smith on (8a) Grotte de Sabart. Photo: Mark McGowan[/td][/tr]

[/table]Sometimes climbing partnerships don't work and so one has to move on (as in life) but I always like to learn from the experience and try and find the good in situations. I embrace what I have learned in the cave from Stevie and move a little more forward for my own. It is THE local training venue and is a very special crag here in the Ariege.

 An old skool legend Craig Smith got a taste for the Grotte when out on his holidays and it seems even an 'old dog' can be open to new tricks. Can't wait to see him back tearing the knee bars open with his newly trained core!

[tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td]Mark McGowan working the 28m roof of Reine de Sabart, (8b)

Photo: Ian Storey[/td][/tr]

[/table]





Source: Reach Climbing Coach

[comPiler]

Learning to be a coach...
22 August 2012, 8:56 pm

Carrying the drill out on Gozo Island

What I have learned in the last 9  months about finding out how to coach climbing better has surprized me. Because, learning about yourself and how you cope or fail to cope in climbing situations is important because until you know about yourself then you can't truly coach others well.

I started the 1st month with a knee operation so I could continue to run to the hills in December. I drove 2000km to Montserrat with a post op stiffness in the knee on the drive at christmas. I lived in my car through the month of Jan while working in Scotland on the ropes then drove to Ariege for Feb. Stayed off my elbows and ran in the snow to let them recover and strengthen my knee...

Bolting on Gozo

Chopped wood for food and shelter in March at the Farmhouse and Coached the kids in Siurana in April. Bolted 15 routes on Gozo island with Haston then took a holiday with the stunt woman across the Pyrenees to the surf in May. Started in the Grotte de Sabart in June and messed up July under pressure. So in August I continue to work the 28m roof of potentially the greatest sport route I might or might not ever climb.

I move to fix my own life under my own steam to achieve what I know I need to achieve to set me free. In september I will be 'psyched' and in October I will try for success.

Learning about your self takes comitment and time and this is what coaching is about. Passing on what you know without ego to help others find the better in themselves.

I always wanted to be a teacher... Sometimes the obvious is just sitting under your nose.

So here is to my own place in Auzat in the Ariege, here is to the ReAch September Team and here is to having the courage to ditch your ego for personal growth and enchaining your own '8b'!

Grotte de Sabart (Photo: Craig Smith)

Source: Reach Climbing Coach