[T_B]

Are these other places better? They are (mostly) on a larger scale, and sometimes it's good just to go somewhere different. And you can go to the UK places, other than P+M, for a weekend. If you've got the time and money for an extended trip it's usually worth considering somewhere that's a bit harder to reach.

It's horses for courses innit. We took a friend from Colorado to Pabbay and he thought it was amazing (I personally found the climbing a bit samey and much prefer granite).

[Duncan campbell]

However, whether the weather is nailed on as opposed to Pembroke/Fair Head/Gogarth/Pabbay & Mingulay... I'm so sure   

Speaking of States climbing areas has anyone been to the Black and/or Eldorado Canyon? They both look fantastic!

I've climbed in Eldorado Canyon. Was underwhelmed by Naked Edge tbh - a bit like a multi-pitch Millstone route. I suspect the Black is an acquired taste.

Hehe true about the weather and also these places can be climbed at whenever you want. Obviously for a long trip you'd go further afield. I think I will head back to Australia before America if I'm honest!

Been to Pabbay/Mingulay 3 times now, going to Fair Head in the spring...the others can be done with much less time than a month.



We did take a wee bit of a spanking in the Valley last time - so we'd heed that advice and start off easy!  Also re: The Hulk - is it feasible to lug enough stuff up there for a few days?

Was mainly playing Devil's advocat. I think it would be feasible to lug a few days stuff up fairly easily. The approach is quite steep and a bit long but if you gave yourself an afternoon/day to do it so you were primed the next morning I think you'd be fine!

[SA Chris]

Not sure if Peter Croft's 'Good, the great and the awesome' guidebook is still available?

I wish to fuck I knew who I loaned my copy to! Eastern Sierras would be a awesome if your mate is there already, you could get the high stuff done if the weather is good, and some of the lower stuff in the Alabama Hills and Whitney Portal when not so great. Or even bail to Red Rocks if it really craps out (I've got the guide for that if you need it) it's only a half day's drive.

[ashtond6]

Possibly not considered long, but too good to miss:

Boney Fingers,  Whitney portal 5.10 or 11b face. 3 pitches

Crazy hidden gem, my pic-

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=247469

[Fultonius]

Well that one's now on the hit list,  if we do go to that part of the world. Looks ace!

Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk

[AndyR]

Possibly not considered long, but too good to miss:

Boney Fingers,  Whitney portal 5.10 or 11b face. 3 pitches

Crazy hidden gem, my pic-

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=247469

That looks great - think I'll be there early July so will add to list.

[jwi]

One well traveled crag for fairly long, fairly adventurous, and mostly free routes (most routes go free in the 6th grade with some aid climbing at around A1/A2) is Mont-rebei near Terradets. I don't think many non-spanish climbers go there, but with a small rack it can be a great divertissement from the more popular sport climbing in the area (Lleida). Two weeks ago I climbed one of the shorter routes on the Catalonia side of the wall, Globeros en Alaska, 7a, 255m. Routes up to around 600 m.

Some previous experience with loose rock is advisable.

More info on the route on my brand new blog http://steepground.blogspot.fr/2016/03/globeros-en-alaska-7a6b-250m-mont-rebei.html

In the upcoming month, I hope to fill the blog with old notes on routes I've done

[Wood FT]

Nice blog, looks like a definite change in character for the area. Looking forward to more updates, it will be a good resource.

[jwi]

...

[Paul B]

One of those shots (Javi on top) looks distinctly like L'Escales!

[jwi]

Looks can deceive... but it's a good adventure play ground - and locals certainly strive to keep it adventurous/Iberian trad-style. I should perhaps have added some lines about the chopping of the Sharma-project (briefly showed in one of the Reel Rock movies). Someone felt that the route was not opened in acceptable style and chopped the entire route. Most local climbers I asked about this feel that the chopper's act was totally justifiable (but I only know locals from one very particular milieu) but I would not like to pass judgement.

[Fultonius]

What's the latest knowledge on insurance?

The last few years I've had the CAF membership & insurance, which was ideal when living in France...but you need to visits CAF office and have a recent medical so that's out of the question now.

It's only a month to the US, and I'm not planning any other trips this year so I'll probably just go for a single trip policy - or the AAC depending on costs.

Any wise words?

[SA Chris]

BMC? All I've ever used TBH. Choose type of climbing and duration, pay the price, no bother.

[Fultonius]

BMC? All I've ever used TBH. Choose type of climbing and duration, pay the price, no bother.

Is why I'm looking around... I just need the minimum cover for emergencies.

[duncan]

Some suggestions of this ilk from the unavoidable Sarah Stirling: 5 multipitch sport crags near accommodation owned by ex-pat. Brits.

Sinsat does look very good from the road.

[Fultonius]

multipitch sport crags near accommodation owned by ex-pat. Brits[/url].

 

[Wood FT]

Some suggestions of this ilk from the unavoidable Sarah Stirling: 5 multipitch sport crags near accommodation owned by ex-pat. Brits.

Sinsat does look very good from the road.

Yeah, especially the big big roof and the Tower people base jump off. Haven't climbed there yet but driven past a few times on the way to Oliana

[jwi]

Some suggestions of this ilk from the unavoidable Sarah Stirling: 5 multipitch sport crags near accommodation owned by ex-pat. Brits.

Sinsat does look very good from the road.

A few weeks ago I did the first 9 pitches of the very popular “Intégrale d'Anaïs” (6b+, 6a+ obl. on the pyrenees scale...) on Sinsat, as the training program I wrote for my better half said easy endurance and she was singularly unmotivated for this. So I figured a long route would do. The first 5 pitches where great, very nice slab climbing, unfortunately the steeper stuff on top was a bit meh. Too much loose rock, not enough interesting climbing. After 9 pitches (the 14th day on) my better half refused to climb any more, so we missed out the top.

I think Sinsat is more of local interest, or if you are in the area and fancy a change of scenery, tbh. But then again, I'm a snob.

[petejh]

You climbed in Ordesa JWI?

I bought the new guide last year when I was in Saint Sebastian and it's got me well keen for a trip. I walked through there years ago while walking the GR trail.

[SA Chris]

What's with the

John Falkiner is a mountain guide based in Switzerland: www.johnfalkiner.com

in the first bit, when he isn't mentioned and none of the crags are in Swizzy. Wonder if Eldorado was in, but got removed for some reason or another?

[jwi]

You climbed in Ordesa JWI?

I bought the new guide last year when I was in Saint Sebastian and it's got me well keen for a trip. I walked through there years ago while walking the GR trail.

Alas, no. I'm very keen to do RACS, but my wife refuses. Also keen on the link-up between Las Brujas and the Franco-Espagnol. In fact, I'm looking for a partner for RACS this fall, when my wife is in US.

[mde]

I'm very keen to do RACS, but my wife refuses.

How good that my wife usually only asks for the number of pitches and max grade when I suggest a route. 

[jwi]

...ah that's all very well ... but what is the punishment for choosing unwisely?

[mde]

If she complains, then it's mostly some moaning about it being too difficult. But then I give it back by saying that I expected it being easy for her... But a bit more seriously: certainly sometimes an advantage if you can just make your choice and have somebody who will follow. On the other hand, discussing objectives and getting psyched (together) isn't that bad either.

[SA Chris]

My partner only complains when I place gear too high. I'm 6ft 2, she's about 5ft 2.