[jwi]

Looks awesome, thanks for all that info! In your "Seasons" bit you didn't mention March. Would a trip in March be a good idea?

No. I don't think so.

Mid-April to Mid-October is the best time. Before or after you'd had to be a quick team climbing only on south facing rock.

I have a friend who went in early April and froze his ass off. (OTOH I have another friend who's been there a lot and he have had good conditions in early April....)

[jwi]

In the unlikely case someone wants to see more photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/111272204514144637665/Morocco?authuser=0&feat=directlink

I had to put them on picasa instead of flickr so that my mother-in-law doesn't see them and freak out.

[ChrisC]

  Sort of like the Chorro walkway, but far shitter.



The place looks amazing.  Enjoyed reading about it. 

[seankenny]

I don't think anyone has mentioned Corsica on this thread yet. A picture of Arnauld Petit's came up on my instagram this weekend of climbing of a route called "Enterre mon coeur" on Cascioniin and it looked well worthy of inclusion on the list. It's not his route, but apparently he's just retrobolted the belays but debolted the rest. "One of the nicest climbs in France" says Mr Petit...

https://instagram.com/p/9ZA6hiwXL1/?taken-by=arnaudpetit_climb

Some more details here:
https://teamgrandesvoiesffcampaca.wordpress.com/2015/10/31/ouverture-et-reequipement-au-cascioni-en-corse/

Map and so on here:
http://escalade.corse.topo.free.fr/index.php?menu=gdv_gb&page=248%20Cascioni%20Syncope&lg=en

Anyone been here?

[Wood FT]

Sophie Whyte has just come back from Corsica, I'll try and get a report out of her to put on this thread (still my favourite)

[SA Chris]

Is she?

[Wood FT]

 

[jwi]

Some more details here:
https://teamgrandesvoiesffcampaca.wordpress.com/2015/10/31/ouverture-et-reequipement-au-cascioni-en-corse/

Map and so on here:
http://escalade.corse.topo.free.fr/index.php?menu=gdv_gb&page=248%20Cascioni%20Syncope&lg=en

Anyone been here?

Thanks for the link! Saw the photo on instagram, but didn't look it up closer. Looks perfect for me and Mrs jwi!

[Fultonius]

I don't think anyone has mentioned Corsica on this thread yet. A picture of Arnauld Petit's came up on my instagram this weekend of climbing of a route called "Enterre mon coeur" on Cascioniin and it looked well worthy of inclusion on the list. It's not his route, but apparently he's just retrobolted the belays but debolted the rest. "One of the nicest climbs in France" says Mr Petit...

Anyone been here?

Not been; want to go now. 

[Fultonius]

Ahhhh, this old gold mine comes back in use!

It looks like I might be going for a month somewhere in the world in September. As usual - this thread has many of the places I want to go to, but September might not be quite the best time for them all.

Basically, my mate is going to be spending most of his summer in N.America - so logistically it would make sense to go somewhere there.

Yosemite is an obvious choice, but we did a lot of what we wanted last time we were (separately) there, and I don;t think either of us will be fit enough for the harder things, and we weren't blown away by all the aid malarkey.

Incredible Hulk seems like an obvious choice, but I doubt we'd spend a month there - so what else is around in that area?

We're probably looking for either: E2-E4 trad multi-pitch things (usual caveat, some aid is ok, but try to free it all) OR alpine mixed climbing....which I think...but not sure...that almost everywhere in the World September is just not a good time.

I Kyrgyzstan (Ak Su) doable in September?

[jwi]

September is perfect for Taghia. Can't recommend it enough. Caveat: it's mostly sport (most of the best trad-routes are at least E4 or harder) You'd have to be quite comfortable on 6c in Verdon to get out the most of a longer stay.

[Fultonius]

I'm busy chatting on FB with him just now. The high sierra is looking like a very viable option!

Taghia I might keep in the bag for a Europe trip. It is likely he'll have bought a cheap camper in the US, so makes a lot of sense to be there.

[petejh]

Ahhhh, this old gold mine comes back in use!

It looks like I might be going for a month somewhere in the world in September. As usual - this thread has many of the places I want to go to, but September might not be quite the best time for them all.

Basically, my mate is going to be spending most of his summer in N.America - so logistically it would make sense to go somewhere there.

Yosemite is an obvious choice, but we did a lot of what we wanted last time we were (separately) there, and I don;t think either of us will be fit enough for the harder things, and we weren't blown away by all the aid malarkey.

Incredible Hulk seems like an obvious choice, but I doubt we'd spend a month there - so what else is around in that area?

We're probably looking for either: E2-E4 trad multi-pitch things (usual caveat, some aid is ok, but try to free it all) OR alpine mixed climbing....which I think...but not sure...that almost everywhere in the World September is just not a good time.

I Kyrgyzstan (Ak Su) doable in September?

If you want to go alpine mixed climbing in September The Darrans in New Zealand are full of Scottish style mixed routes on granite: some existent, much not yet climbed. Also Mt Cook region - the back of the Hooker Glacier. I've climbed in both a fair bit, keep saying I must go back to play in the Darrans in winter doing new mixed routes..

[Johnny Brown]

In California in Sept I'd be looking to hit up the Needles, the Hulk, Tuolomne and the Keeler Needle. There is loads more in the High Sierra that isn't much known in the UK.

[i_a_coops]

I Kyrgyzstan (Ak Su) doable in September?

Probably unlikely - when I was there, everyone else had left the valley by early/mid August, snow started getting more frequent around then and then it really crapped out at the end of August (i.e. snow on all the holds!)

[T_B]

In California in Sept I'd be looking to hit up the Needles, the Hulk, Tuolomne and the Keeler Needle. There is loads more in the High Sierra that isn't much known in the UK.

+ 1. Incredible Hulk requires a bit of logistics. You either do it as a long day hit if you're fit and know the tricky approach (plus it's 3500m), or take bivi etc and camp up there (recommended). Positive Vibrations (5.11) is one of the best routes at the grade on the planet. Crofts harder routes are amazing too. It's not somewhere you'd spend a month though.

I went to the Needles with Nic, for whom it was his 3rd visit (says it all). There is everything from 4-star single pitch to 4-star multi pitch. It's immaculate. Probably the best trad climbing area I've been to in terms of mixture of styles/grades.

Tuolomne is awesome if you like runout face climbing on your feet.

All of the above may be chilly in September.

Not sure if Peter Croft's 'Good, the great and the awesome' guidebook is still available?

If I went again I'd be keen for some of the more Alpiney stuff in the High Sierras. September might be optimal for this, as thunderstorms are an issue in high summer?

[Fultonius]

In California in Sept I'd be looking to hit up the Needles, the Hulk, Tuolomne and the Keeler Needle. There is loads more in the High Sierra that isn't much known in the UK.

+ 1. Incredible Hulk requires a bit of logistics. You either do it as a long day hit if you're fit and know the tricky approach (plus it's 3500m), or take bivi etc and camp up there (recommended). Positive Vibrations (5.11) is one of the best routes at the grade on the planet. Crofts harder routes are amazing too. It's not somewhere you'd spend a month though.

I went to the Needles with Nic, for whom it was his 3rd visit (says it all). There is everything from 4-star single pitch to 4-star multi pitch. It's immaculate. Probably the best trad climbing area I've been to in terms of mixture of styles/grades.

Tuolomne is awesome if you like runout face climbing on your feet.

All of the above may be chilly in September.

Not sure if Peter Croft's 'Good, the great and the awesome' guidebook is still available?

If I went again I'd be keen for some of the more Alpiney stuff in the High Sierras. September might be optimal for this, as thunderstorms are an issue in high summer?

We can deal with "a bit chilly" better than " a bit roasting" but we could always bail down lower later in the month if it's too chilly. I think ^^^ this sounds like a great option. Not heard much about The Needles, so will check it out. Cheers all.

[Duncan campbell]

Needles is amazing as above, really beautiful and cool climbing. I found it tough partly because I'm crap at crack/granite climbing and partly because it was our first destination and the grades a little stiff (?). So if you aren't used to this style might be worth warming up into it somewhere else?

Re the Hulk my biggest tip is, if you are on a trip go mid-week! We did a day hit from the campsite and ended up at the back of the queue for Red Dihedral which ended up in me and my partner soloing/simuling the fallen leaf variation - chossy as fuck and rubbish. Should have done Positive Vibes but I wasn't confident enough in my ability. One of my bigger regrets if I'm honest.


They are both really cool areas and I would probably head back to them over the shitshow that is the Valley! I really rated Red Rocks as well.

However, whether they are as good as Pembroke/Fair Head/Gogarth/Pabbay & Mingulay... I'm not so sure   

Speaking of States climbing areas has anyone been to the Black and/or Eldorado Canyon? They both look fantastic!

[T_B]

However, whether the weather is nailed on as opposed to Pembroke/Fair Head/Gogarth/Pabbay & Mingulay... I'm so sure   

Speaking of States climbing areas has anyone been to the Black and/or Eldorado Canyon? They both look fantastic!

I've climbed in Eldorado Canyon. Was underwhelmed by Naked Edge tbh - a bit like a multi-pitch Millstone route. I suspect the Black is an acquired taste.

[Fultonius]

However, whether they are as good as Pembroke/Fair Head/Gogarth/Pabbay & Mingulay... I'm not so sure   

Been to Pabbay/Mingulay 3 times now, going to Fair Head in the spring...the others can be done with much less time than a month.

Needles is amazing as above, really beautiful and cool climbing. I found it tough partly because I'm crap at crack/granite climbing and partly because it was our first destination and the grades a little stiff (?). So if you aren't used to this style might be worth warming up into it somewhere else?

Re the Hulk my biggest tip is, if you are on a trip go mid-week! 

We did take a wee bit of a spanking in the Valley last time - so we'd heed that advice and start off easy!  Also re: The Hulk - is it feasible to lug enough stuff up there for a few days?

[jwi]

I've climbed in Eldorado Canyon. Was underwhelmed by Naked Edge tbh - a bit like a multi-pitch Millstone route. I suspect the Black is an acquired taste.

Eldorado Canyon is mostly of local interest these days. Imho.

[duncan]

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

What’s good about it
Awe-inspiring long routes.
Very trad. and often very committing.
Looks like a 1500’ version of Gogarth or a more impressive and malevolent Verdon:  and I visited and were quite relieved when it snowed so we could make our excuses and bail.
You won’t be queuing.

Best time
mid-September-October; April-May

What’s not so good about it
Poison Ivy.
Hideous approach gullies - even worse if you have to retreat back up them.
Loose and crumbly rock.

(From West Coast beta)


Another strong recommendation for The Needles. I can't believe I've only been once.

I enjoyed a day in Eldo. canyon but it was a bit of a pilgrimage for me as a major centre in the 70s and early 80s, the Tremadog of US climbing in this sense. Not objectively better than Pembroke/Fair Head/Gogarth/Pabbay & Mingulay. 

Are these other places better? They are (mostly) on a larger scale, and sometimes it's good just to go somewhere different. And you can go to the UK places, other than P+M, for a weekend. If you've got the time and money for an extended trip it's usually worth considering somewhere that's a bit harder to reach.

[jwi]

For CO, South Platte is quite good and a bit different. Local knowledge might be necessary to get out the most of it though. September should be good. Obviously, High Sierra is better

[cheque]

Poison Ivy.

Bear in mind you may not be allergic to Poison Ivy- about a quarter of people aren't.

[T_B]

Also re: The Hulk - is it feasible to lug enough stuff up there for a few days?

Yes. Or take bivi stuff up there and stash it + your climbing gear, as the walk in isn't massive. We walked in heavy with tent, climbed PV the next day and returned to the valley for steaks etc. Then walked back in light one evening and spent two nights up there.