Grit Expectations - Brimham

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match

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Jun 6, 2009
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Had a play on this the other day - found the starting wall nails! Even the grotty green guidebook crux higher up was (way) easier. Hence, beta request. How do folks do the start? I could manage twin pockets, arete for right, pinchy thing for left, then stuck. Is it just a massive throw for the big pockets or am i missing some of this mythical technique thing?? Short-arse friendly advice appreciated!

I found a sequence stepping in from the left using a lh undercut in a pocket, rh on the pinchy thing and a dyno for the big pocket that I could manage, but guessing this is off route?
 
i think you sort off rock up to get that two finger undercut with your left.then rh pinchy thing and up to pocket.but as it was 10+ years ago when i did this i might be talking bollocks.i felt the top bit was the crux having previously decked it from up there 15 years before.
 
webbo said:
i think you sort off rock up to get that two finger undercut with your left.then rh pinchy thing and up to pocket.but as it was 10+ years ago when i did this i might be talking bollocks.i felt the top bit was the crux having previously decked it from up there 15 years before.

Hmm, sounds similar to my left hand method. So instead of using the arete, you go from the low twin pockets, rock up and left to get a pocket with lh, undercut it, rh on the pinchy thing and slap the top twin pockets. That would make sense to me, cos direct up the arete feels utterly nails for '6a'.

Re the deck out - yeouch! Wire in the groove ripped? S'gonna need some serious cleaning on the top half to make it a reasonable/pleasant proposition anyhow.
 
match said:
Re the deck out - yeouch! Wire in the groove ripped? S'gonna need some serious cleaning on the top half to make it a reasonable/pleasant proposition anyhow.
no it was in the days when the scoop had a grass sod in it and you had to mantel up on it with out pulling too hard.i pulled too hard.
so after waiting about 15 years for the memory to fade i went back and top roped it then led it.i don't think when it was first done the wires that were around would have fitted that placement rp?
 
Mantelling onto a grass sod? Classic. ;D

webbo said:
so after waiting about 15 years for the memory to fade i went back and top roped it then led it.i don't think when it was first done the wires that were around would have fitted that placement rp?

Dunno what the placement is, was too busy sliding around on the green ming to look - prob an rp though, mebbe a crappy cam higher up in the flake. Keen to try and lead it, but guessing some careful cleaning is in order. What works best for removing the green coating without damaging the fragile rock - soft brushes only I guess but will they deal with the grot?
 
By far the best way to clean very green grit is to do it when it's properly wet during or after rain. That way even really hard to remove green comes off easily using a decent plastic/wood bristle brush. It's also crucial to bring a small bucket of water to clean your brush when all the bristles get clogged up with gunk, otherwise you just end up smearing the muck around.
It can be a fairly messy miserable affair dangling on a slimy crag in the rain, but the results are amazing and the rock isn't damaged in the cleaning. I'd give you a wad point for it as GE is on my list of routes to do.
 
IS GE the one just near Giggling crack? If so its always been nails - one of those old-school routes which are proper hard. Don't remember any of our lot ever doing it.
 
Johnny Brown said:
IS GE the one just near Giggling crack?

No, it's in the Hattery Area. Left arete of Hatter's Groove IIRC.

This was one of the few routes that got a downgrade in the millenium edition Yorkshire Grit. I recall a few eyebrows being raised at the Uni club at the time.

Eyed it up once or twice, but I think Hong Kong Stuey had a go, failed and said it was nails, so never bothered. I thjink he used a small alien cam somewhere.
 
Johnny Brown said:
IS GE the one just near Giggling crack? If so its always been nails - one of those old-school routes which are proper hard. Don't remember any of our lot ever doing it.

I think that one is True Grit?
 
Right, thanks for the tip Bonjoy. Somehow I suspected the answer might involve dangling around in the pissing rain. Just checked the forecast and this week seems keen to supply pissing rain in quantities of abundance, so might try and head across sometime soon - if I get the chance I'll let folks know here.

@JB - yeah that's True Grit, looks truly horrendous - the bottom crack looks nails but seems chalked regularly, but the top "crack" looks like a slopey flared Brimham bum fest, and I've never ever seen it chalked. Urgh.
 
i've done that one as well.i think i did the bottom crank a couple of times and escaped right before manning up to do the proper finish.i remember sort of manteling on a hand jam to get out at the top.
re grit expections you can get quite good rps in it.rocks abit sandy though.
 
It shouldn't need too much cleaning to make it climbable, but an autumn clean would be well received by me. I cleaned it about this time last year, but only cleaned the holds that looked any use, so it probably still looks very green. I'd intended to go back and climb it once it had dried out, but never got round to it. It's worth cleaning the runner slots out as there's some bomber placements in there - don't want to give away too much about what and where, but it's kind of obvious when you ab down it (probably the reason for the downgrade!).

Neil.
 
An update. The route is so clean it looks like someone has chucked bleach down it. It was found to be a bit scrittly though. Footwork abbed down to give it a brush and try and get rid of the scrittle. He then fiddled for ages getting a wire in. Not the kind of thing to try and place blind it would seem! What looked like a bomber rock 7 from the ground soon became a small wire teased in.

We then deployed our secret weapon and sent the Dave Warburton™ up above a good number of pads. He can normally be relied upon up path up anything. He climbed a line fairly central up the wall, not really particularly close to the arête. Then got to the gear, had a look at the moves above and promptly came back down. Had another couple of goes and sacked it off. Footwork ended up top roping it but made it look non trivial and quite sequency. He has vowed to be back in decent conditions.

So there you go. Proper E4 it would seem.
 
Good old 'HVS'.

Felt similar in aspect to Quark at Caley, the meat of the climbing revolving around one wire that your Tibia and Fibular are counting on before some bold, but less taxing, top moves.

The line is brilliant and begs to be climbed, but sadly the crack is slightly sandy and the gear a bit fiddly (and stressful) to place! We need to recalibrate the Warburton Canon.

Proper grit E4 this.
 


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