Fiend
Whut
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2004
- Messages
- 13,854
Is there any beta that makes this 6C+ for 6C+ climbers?? And if so, what is it??
As far as I can tell:
1. Eliminate the obvious pocket version: RF chip, LF nick in groove, stand up, RH one of the two main pebbles, LH pebble out left, RF on some terrible smear and crank like a bastard for the top (I can see this working if you're the sort of crimp waif that does repeaters on 6mms and BM2k monos)
2. Use the obvious pocket but eliminate the right arete version ("a grade easier" according to the book but still harder than any 6C+ slab I've ever tried): RF chip, LF nick in groove, stand up, RF pocket (trying not to think about skidding sideways and overshooting the landing), LH one of the two main pebbles, RH to vertical fin pebble near arete, crank like a bastard to stand in the pocket and thence the top (I can see this working if you're the same crimp waif who has swapped some mono repeaters for weighted pistol squats (I've been doing weighted single leg box squats, clearly not enough)).
I want to like this problem (for the aesthetics and style) but currently I'm struggling to, given it's got two different eliminate versions and a chipped foothold to start and each version will result in circumcised fingers and possibly prolapse too. Hence if anyone can reveal the secret or confirm I should just fuck off and move on, that would be nice x
As far as I can tell:
1. Eliminate the obvious pocket version: RF chip, LF nick in groove, stand up, RH one of the two main pebbles, LH pebble out left, RF on some terrible smear and crank like a bastard for the top (I can see this working if you're the sort of crimp waif that does repeaters on 6mms and BM2k monos)
2. Use the obvious pocket but eliminate the right arete version ("a grade easier" according to the book but still harder than any 6C+ slab I've ever tried): RF chip, LF nick in groove, stand up, RF pocket (trying not to think about skidding sideways and overshooting the landing), LH one of the two main pebbles, RH to vertical fin pebble near arete, crank like a bastard to stand in the pocket and thence the top (I can see this working if you're the same crimp waif who has swapped some mono repeaters for weighted pistol squats (I've been doing weighted single leg box squats, clearly not enough)).
I want to like this problem (for the aesthetics and style) but currently I'm struggling to, given it's got two different eliminate versions and a chipped foothold to start and each version will result in circumcised fingers and possibly prolapse too. Hence if anyone can reveal the secret or confirm I should just fuck off and move on, that would be nice x