The Twang buttress at the far left end of the crag is undercut and gives some powerful bouldering. Approach as for the crag along the fixed ropes and follow the base of the crag to the left. Flat grassy landings, though 2 pads useful on the higher problems. Seeps in winter but dries up in the Spring (and nice bluebells) and stays dry in light rain. Less gloomy than Cucklet Delf but more road noise.
The starts to the routes are the best problems here, with the gaps filled by Robin and Dawid, and finally the prow to myself after quite a few sessions
Long Vehicle Reversing 7B (R-man/Dawid) - Just right of the pillar, from a bunched sit start on good holds and lock up the wall on small chert edges.
Turkey Vulture Crack - 4+
Tequila Tory Start - 7B** (Quentin Fisher) - From the slot and RH pinch make a big move to a pod, and crimp up and rightwards to better holds in the break
Slot Machine - 7B+ (R-man/Dawid) - As above but eliminating the low ledge and anything below. A powerful first move.
Tease 7C (R-man/Dawid)- A hard eliminate. Start RH on pinch and LH directly below on a low pocket. Eliminate the ledge and anything below, make a hard stab into the slot, and finish as for Slot Machine.
Feierabend 7B+* A rare thing, a limestone compression prow. Start at the undercuts and finish at the jugs. A bit reachy.
Arbeit Macht Frei Start 7A* (Paul Mitchell) The overhanging groove to high jugs, slightly highball. A good line and one of the better limestone 7As around.
Let Your Guard Down Start 6A The leaning crack, finishing on a big leaning jug
Spider 7A (R-man/Dawid) Let Your Guard Down eliminating the ledge and anything below. Start from a RH pinch, LH crimp, and pull into the undercut crack
Early Dart 7A From two good pinches, eliminating the ledge and below, slap to a good LH square finger jug, and go straight up to the big leaning jug
The Guard start 5
Fingers of Night 7B (R-man/Dawid) From chest height undercut/pinches, eliminating the ledge and below, slap to a crozzly RH sloper, then up on flat holds to a high jug/flake
Blurry video still of the prow. Topo available on UKC logbooks.
The starts to the routes are the best problems here, with the gaps filled by Robin and Dawid, and finally the prow to myself after quite a few sessions
Long Vehicle Reversing 7B (R-man/Dawid) - Just right of the pillar, from a bunched sit start on good holds and lock up the wall on small chert edges.
Turkey Vulture Crack - 4+
Tequila Tory Start - 7B** (Quentin Fisher) - From the slot and RH pinch make a big move to a pod, and crimp up and rightwards to better holds in the break
Slot Machine - 7B+ (R-man/Dawid) - As above but eliminating the low ledge and anything below. A powerful first move.
Tease 7C (R-man/Dawid)- A hard eliminate. Start RH on pinch and LH directly below on a low pocket. Eliminate the ledge and anything below, make a hard stab into the slot, and finish as for Slot Machine.
Feierabend 7B+* A rare thing, a limestone compression prow. Start at the undercuts and finish at the jugs. A bit reachy.
Arbeit Macht Frei Start 7A* (Paul Mitchell) The overhanging groove to high jugs, slightly highball. A good line and one of the better limestone 7As around.
Let Your Guard Down Start 6A The leaning crack, finishing on a big leaning jug
Spider 7A (R-man/Dawid) Let Your Guard Down eliminating the ledge and anything below. Start from a RH pinch, LH crimp, and pull into the undercut crack
Early Dart 7A From two good pinches, eliminating the ledge and below, slap to a good LH square finger jug, and go straight up to the big leaning jug
The Guard start 5
Fingers of Night 7B (R-man/Dawid) From chest height undercut/pinches, eliminating the ledge and below, slap to a crozzly RH sloper, then up on flat holds to a high jug/flake
Blurry video still of the prow. Topo available on UKC logbooks.
