[rainbow]

Well the Roaches Guide is out, and it looks great. All area's have been tweaked. Wright's is now bang up to date and the problems are now clear where they start and finish (and whats in/out of the eliminate type of problems). I've worked closely with Grimer on this section. All the stuff in that old thread is either in guide, or the download guide which I've put the link below. One of the reasons for the download is to reduce the traffic on said blocks as they are on softer rock than they're neighbours. (We're thinking long term here) Was thinking of using this thread for info, questions and repeats from now and in furture.

Here's the link
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=523

New from Oct 2009

1) Slow Worm, F7b+, Gentleman's FA Dave Parkin Oct 2009. The full version of Limp Lizard. (Basically links the sit start V3 into the standing start of Limp Lizard.) Very Morpho so grade is between 7a to 7c. Pic below shows line of Limp Lizard, the link up is from down and slightly left.


The Future is out there!!

[BenF]

Nice one and good effort with the topo.  I've since done a lot of the stuff that you've reported in recent years and can recommend pretty much all of it to other visitors, but echo your comments about making sure these more esoteric blocks are dry before climbing on them.  There are some very soft bits of rock in the dale.

Thanks again for your efforts (and those of your mates) in providing more stuff to boulder on down there.

[SA Chris]

Is strapping a lantern to the forehead a new fashion for the winter?

[slackline]

Thats just an old school head torch from waaaaaay back.

[BenF]

Is strapping a lantern to the forehead a new fashion for the winter?

Looks like he needs to keep his head tilted back to keep the lamp on.  Maybe not that good for walking with but fine for peering upwards at stuff.

[SA Chris]

Yeah, strap must be adjustable. Looks to be set at the perfect angle for climbing that problem right now though.

[rainbow]

You get some quite funny pics in the dark, with the trick of light en all. As mentioned somewhere on here earlier in week, Bizarre, me being a dumb ass forgot to regrade this, Everyone go a get some tipex. Are we thinking 7b for this?? Still haven't tried using the holds out right yet. Maybe easier harder this way. Grimer also did some detective work and got the proper info regarding war child and the tyler (The Eliminate Prob) Wright's. Seems War Child has had two known repeats and the rules on Tyler have been revised as per first ascent. So I need to do it again.  Was hoping to get out that way tomorrow but the weather's none too good. So it the Works again

[joel]

As Ben said, cheers for all your work discovering problems, fixing holds and publicising what is a very good area. I've enjoyed discovering quality problems there over the past couple of years, and will return again (when things dry out!)

Re: bizarre I wouldn't argue with 7b or 7c. It is reachy and you need strong fingers so is easier for the tall and beastmaker trained..... It was my first "7c" which may say a lot, but I have since climbed other ones that I found easier, but that's grades for you.

[Eddies]

Bizarre ..... It was my first "7c", but I have since climbed other ones that I found easier

Such as?

[joel]

Such as?

One move wonder eliminates on the Kudos wall and at Raven Tor. That probably says a lot about my climbing (i.e. unable to climb hard problems that involve linking moves ). Basically I went back to Bizarre after I'd done it, having climbed about 6 or 7 more 7c's in Font, the Peak and Swiss, and still found it hard. Other 7c's I've returned to I've been able to repeat quickly and relatively easily. Not the case with Bizarre for some reason.

[slackline]

Basically I went back to Bizarre after I'd done it, having climbed about 6 or 7 more 7c's in Font, the Peak and Swiss, and still found it hard. Other 7c's I've returned to I've been able to repeat quickly and relatively easily. Not the case with Bizarre for some reason.

Thats bizarre! 

[Eddies]

Ive done Bizzare (using pebbles out right) but I struggle with everything on that damned Kudos wall!
Took me 9 sessions and deffo the hardest thing ive climbed... so I vote 7c 

[Dolph]

I had an amazing day out with the Scousers yesterday at the Churnet. The new guide has some quite good new problems. Unfortunately a was scabbing a look at Ben's copy so details may be hazy. I will def be getting a copy!

Basically I especially liked the V8 sit start to Breathe? and the new additions to Gentlemans Rock particularly liked the massive Dyno (I can't remember the name) and the Fifty pence problem.

While we were at Gentlemans i worked on some lines with Andy F that weren't in the Guide. I managed to do Both and they were really good and worth pointing out for people to try if they like mono's and it kind of completes the buttress.

The first was a the line left of Moon Jumper. It goes up to two small pockets before setting up for and slapping a slopey sidepull hold on a mini arete. Then up to the break and finish as for Moon Jumper on the high slopey break thing up and left. Suggested name is Lunar Direct and its about 7c ish. This may have been climbed before as it had chalk on it, or i'm sorry if this is someones project!!!!?

The secound is more of a variation but its not as eliminate as it sounds. This is the line just left of High Speed Imp Act. You start as for High peed Imp Act to the big pocket but then cross over with the right to a good mono. (Instead of jumping up and right to another good pockect as for HSIA) From here a still lock using a pebble as an intermediate will land you a a good deep pocket just below good finishing holds. We called this Crash Test and reckoned about 7b+ ish as it's very basic. I broke a hold on this and there was no chalk on the lefthand holds so i'm pretty sure thats its new.

Cheers Andy for the names and i think you need to set the bar a bit higher in your bouldering!!
 

[a dense loner]

joelm there are no one move 7c's on kudos wall and the only one at the tor is undercuts to sloper.

[r-man]

There are four on the Kudos wall, aren't there? Kudos Original (rockover on polished smear), Johnny G 7c, The Pinch, Ned's Problem (Pinch hold to Press jug).

[BenF]

Nice one Mike for reporting the new Churnet stuff from the other day.  Worth getting out in the public domain.  I too can confirm the quality of much of the new stuff like Breathe and its gnarly sitstart.  All the "new" problems listed in the Gentlemens topo in the new BMC guide are also very good; the mono problem and the one right of the fifty pence problem being especially enjoyable.

[dave]

There are four on the Kudos wall, aren't there? Kudos Original (rockover on polished smear), Johnny G 7c, The Pinch, Ned's Problem (Pinch hold to Press jug).

Only 2 of them are actually only 1 move though, and if neds prob is 7c than the pinch is at least a grade easier. for that matter, undercuts to sloper at the tor isn't one move either.

[a dense loner]

yeh saying undercuts to sloper was one move kept me awake for a bit last night, its not really. re kudos wall, only 2 of them are 1 move tho, but only one of them is 7c ie not kudos. don't know what johnny g and the pinch or neds problem are. what i would presume to be the pinch, ie the one move 7c that very few people have done i didn't count since its about 8 grades harder than bizarre. disclaimer i've not been anywhere near bizarre but have been reliably informed by different people that its not 7c

[dave]

don't know what johnny g and the pinch or neds problem are.

johnny g is the standup start version of bigger belly (genuine 7c but not 1 move). pinch is the pinch as you guessed (me and banks have done this), and neds problem is that same pinchey sloper start hold to the press finishing jug.

[joel]

joelm there are no one move 7c's on kudos wall and the only one at the tor is undercuts to sloper/quote]

The pinch problem and undercuts to sloper are the problems I meant.

[rainbow]

Basically I especially liked the V8 sit start to Breathe? and the new additions to Gentlemans Rock particularly liked the massive Dyno (I can't remember the name) and the Fifty pence problem.

While we were at Gentlemans i worked on some lines with Andy F that weren't in the Guide. I managed to do Both and they were really good and worth pointing out for people to try if they like mono's and it kind of completes the buttress.

The first was a the line left of Moon Jumper. It goes up to two small pockets before setting up for and slapping a slopey sidepull hold on a mini arete. Then up to the break and finish as for Moon Jumper on the high slopey break thing up and left. Suggested name is Lunar Direct and its about 7c ish. This may have been climbed before as it had chalk on it, or i'm sorry if this is someones project!!!!?

The secound is more of a variation but its not as eliminate as it sounds. This is the line just left of High Speed Imp Act. You start as for High peed Imp Act to the big pocket but then cross over with the right to a good mono. (Instead of jumping up and right to another good pockect as for HSIA) From here a still lock using a pebble as an intermediate will land you a a good deep pocket just below good finishing holds. We called this Crash Test and reckoned about 7b+ ish as it's very basic. I broke a hold on this and there was no chalk on the lefthand holds so i'm pretty sure thats its new.

Impressive stuff indeed. Lunar Direct hadn't been done and from your description I think you meant on the right of Moon Jumper. A Brilliant Addition. The variation on HSIA also to my knowledge hadn't been done either. Very brave to pull on those mono's at that height. Glad you liked Breathe. In retrospect maybe its better from a sitter, as it turns itself into a full problem rather than a two move wonder?

Condition wise, great friction today, and not really effected by snow due to the angle of most things. Hope this weather last till next week.

[BenF]

Lunar Direct hadn't been done and from your description I think you meant on the right of Moon Jumper.

Yeah, that's what he meant.      Going straight up to the big jug on Electrofly that you use to yard up to the finishing rail.

[Andy F]

Despite not finishing either, I can confirm the quality of Mick additions. Tape up your middle finger for Crash Damage, it need the protection 

[measles23]

Oh dear - really sorry Stuart and everyone else, I just killed breathe this afternoon
The starting crimp on the standup exploded into pieces as soon as I pulled on - nothing left to glue back on I'm afraid..
Think its still possible by lurching up from the low crimps - I could slap the sloper like this but it'll need some accuracy and a fair amount of tension to stick it; a nice move and with beasts like dolph roaming the woods it could be done..
Beautiful conditions at the mo..

[BenF]

Oh no!  What a shame (but no criticism of you, it was always going to happen sometime).

On a tangent, what were the roads like to drive on today?  Not too icey coming from Stoke?  And how was Wright's if you got up there?  Were the finishes above the roof dry/ice free?

Thanks.