Despite not finishing either, I can confirm the quality of Mick additions. Tape up your middle finger for Crash Damage, it need the protection
Quote from: rainbow on December 21, 2009, 09:57:16 pmLunar Direct hadn't been done and from your description I think you meant on the right of Moon Jumper. Yeah, that's what he meant. Going straight up to the big jug on Electrofly that you use to yard up to the finishing rail.
Lunar Direct hadn't been done and from your description I think you meant on the right of Moon Jumper.
Oh dear - really sorry Stuart and everyone else, I just killed breathe this afternoon The starting crimp on the standup exploded into pieces as soon as I pulled on - nothing left to glue back on I'm afraid..Think its still possible by lurching up from the low crimps - I could slap the sloper like this but it'll need some accuracy and a fair amount of tension to stick it; a nice move and with beasts like dolph roaming the woods it could be done..Beautiful conditions at the mo..
Quote from: BenF on December 22, 2009, 08:11:27 amQuote from: rainbow on December 21, 2009, 09:57:16 pmLunar Direct hadn't been done and from your description I think you meant on the right of Moon Jumper. Yeah, that's what he meant. Going straight up to the big jug on Electrofly that you use to yard up to the finishing rail.Thats right thanks for clearing that up
Oh dear - really sorry Stuart and everyone else, I just killed breathe this afternoon The starting crimp on the standup exploded into pieces as soon as I pulled on - nothing left to glue back on I'm afraid..Think its still possible by lurching up from the low crimps - I could slap the sloper like this but it'll need some accuracy and a fair amount of tension to stick it; a nice move and with beasts like dolph roaming the woods it could be done..
Red road's been gritted (and pot holes recently filled ) Access from oakamoor was fine tonight. Wrights was in mint condition - ice on the first prob on the left and on the block to the right but the main crag was superb - all the roof finishes in condition, low holds in condition and some of the best friction I've ever felt there. Didn't look at any of the other crags...
I had an amazing day out with the Scousers yesterday at the Churnet. The new guide has some quite good new problems. Unfortunately a was scabbing a look at Ben's copy so details may be hazy. I will def be getting a copy!Basically I especially liked the V8 sit start to Breathe? and the new additions to Gentlemans Rock particularly liked the massive Dyno (I can't remember the name) and the Fifty pence problem.While we were at Gentlemans i worked on some lines with Andy F that weren't in the Guide. I managed to do Both and they were really good and worth pointing out for people to try if they like mono's and it kind of completes the buttress. The first was a the line left of Moon Jumper. It goes up to two small pockets before setting up for and slapping a slopey sidepull hold on a mini arete. Then up to the break and finish as for Moon Jumper on the high slopey break thing up and left. Suggested name is Lunar Direct and its about 7c ish. This may have been climbed before as it had chalk on it, or i'm sorry if this is someones project!!!!?The secound is more of a variation but its not as eliminate as it sounds. This is the line just left of High Speed Imp Act. You start as for High peed Imp Act to the big pocket but then cross over with the right to a good mono. (Instead of jumping up and right to another good pockect as for HSIA) From here a still lock using a pebble as an intermediate will land you a a good deep pocket just below good finishing holds. We called this Crash Test and reckoned about 7b+ ish as it's very basic. I broke a hold on this and there was no chalk on the lefthand holds so i'm pretty sure thats its new.Cheers Andy for the names and i think you need to set the bar a bit higher in your bouldering!!
Promising news for breathe - have done the start again now with a well timed lunge; not quite as bad as I thought it would be - no repeat yet as pinch and above was gopping.. Also done the moves in from sitting, starting with LH in mono, RH on good mid-height crimp - is this right or should you start lower??
I had an amazing day out with the Scousers yesterday at the Churnet. The new guide has some quite good new problems. Unfortunately a was scabbing a look at Ben's copy so details may be hazy. I will def be getting a copy!
I did Breathe from sitting yesterday (after clearing snow and ice from the top), it was all bone dry and in perfect condition especially the wonderful sloper. I too started with a lefthand mono, righthand lowest good crimp (and left foot on the obvious good central foothold, rightfoot flagged underneath the boulder). Can't see any point in starting lower as these holds leave you sitting comfortably on the ground. I hesitate to say that it's actually a better problem now that the crimp has broken. Mainly because you're now forced to match on the sloper.
Think you must be a bit taller than me as those holds leave me straining to to touch the mat with my bum to claim a sitter!
Found gaining the sloper a lot harder, well could hit it but couldn't hang it. I'm hoping it was due to being out all day . Think I over graded it originally, probably 7a+ from sitting then. Now 7b maybe a little harder, difficult to tell that sloper is so condition dependant.
