[measles23]

a bit shouldery, a bit fingery and a bit difficult. A good addition.

Brilliant effort! - agree with all the above - I worked hard on this back in the summer and did the individual moves but struggled with the link: How did he do it in the end Andi - gaston the flake with right then up to crimp with left?

[AndiT]

He started with a thumb on the gaston, rocked on, turned it into a gaston (which looked like a horribly finger creeping type move) then up with left and a few more grunts for the top.

Disappointingly it took him about four goes, which would make it twice as hard as Ray's Roof.

No name was mentioned as it was unclear if it'd been done or not before.

[measles23]

Four times as hard as slingshot then!

Surely we'd know if someone had done it - its such an obvious churnet LGP you'd have to be pretty shy and retiring not to let others know.. If the chalk was old, minimal and brushed its probably mine from the summer; I've not seen fresh chalk on it since.

Needs a name (and a start that normal people can reach!)

[The Runt]

  It was mine, it was mine how dare he steal my project I'd been working on it for 10 weeks. There's not enough rock out there for everyone you know! go and find your own problems.  nice one Ryan  how about the dyno thing to the right that needs doing too

[rainbow]

Awesome effort. I thought we were a year or two away from this being done. Anyone in the know pester for a name.

[Eddies]

I was on the Pine boulder (just before cottage Rocks) over the easter bank holiday.
Climbed a cool line that starts far right on the Pine Boulder and traverse left with funky moves to a rail ( as used on Left Pine) where a big move up leads to bigger holds.

Has anyone done this before?

[rainbow]

I was on the Pine boulder (just before cottage Rocks) over the easter bank holiday.
Climbed a cool line that starts far right on the Pine Boulder and traverse left with funky moves to a rail ( as used on Left Pine) where a big move up leads to bigger holds.

Has anyone done this before?

I know I replied to your pm, Just thought I'd reply on here in the intrest of politeness. I'd looked at line but never tried it. Don't think it had been done. Was out on Mon and things have started to dry out nicely. The curse of the guide !!, Gentleman's looks a little worse for ware. Lunar Direct's starting jug came off. Not my me, that prob is far too hard for me at the mo. I have the hold will glue back on if anyone wants me too. Martin's Mono prob the undercut thang has crumbled a bit. Anyone know when/how did that boulder fall? of the top of Wrights. Luckily none of the climbing or landings have been affected. Jeez wouldn't like to have been around when that came down

[chris05]

No idea how or when it fell, it took me a while to decide whether it had always been like that (decided it definitely hadn't). I was up there when it was dripping and made sure I moved fairly quickly past the gully it fell down!

[Eddies]

Good news about the Pine prob, guess its mine then 

I was up Wrights on the 13th of March and the boulder looked like it had only just fallen. I had a lil clean up and found evidence of a wrecking bar of some kind used to smash it off its ledge! I dont wanna point any fingers, but if past experience is anything to go by then local youths have got to be top of the suspects list!

[measles23]

Guilty for Lunar Direct (christ anyone would think I'm on a one man mission to wreck all of Mick's problems) - Luckily it doesn't really affect the problem or grade as you can go up from the shelf via some small undercuts in the overhang; crux is still the move to the sidepull... Quite good moves so not sure there's any point gluing it back on..

Not guilty (for once!) for the crumbling undercut on Martin's mono but have repeated it since; its a little tougher..

Thanks for the blue nun video Stuart; inspired me to wander down to find the well hidden buttress  - do you know who put up the 'missing you already' traverse? Its really very good crimpiness and quite different to other churnet sideways movement - reminded me of little northumberland at Nesscliffe..

Cheers, Matt

[rainbow]

Thanks for the blue nun video Stuart; inspired me to wander down to find the well hidden buttress  - do you know who put up the 'missing you already' traverse? Its really very good crimpiness and quite different to other churnet sideways movement - reminded me of little northumberland at Nesscliffe..
Cheers, Matt

That and most of the other newish problems down that way were done by Rob, (Mirf). Need to get back on that myself. Judging by the chalk, looks like there maybe an even lower traverse underneath 'Missing You Already'.

[measles23]

Judging by the chalk, looks like there maybe an even lower traverse underneath 'Missing You Already'.

You'd be right - figured out a sequence the other day and did it today, although its fairly short. Could be extended at a higher level (easyish), or at the same level (hard), but it starts feeling a bit eliminatey further right..



I wasn't filming when I did 'missing you.." but I've got earlier footage falling off after the crux if it'd be any use to you for sequence? I'm likely to be hanging out there a bit in coming weeks working extensions/links etc..

Cheers, Matt

[rainbow]

I'm liking the look of them moves. I'm sure its harder than you make it look.

I wasn't filming when I did 'missing you.." but I've got earlier footage falling off after the crux if it'd be any use to you for sequence? I'm likely to be hanging out there a bit in coming weeks working extensions/links etc..
Cheers, Matt

Yeah footage of 'missing you' would be useful for me. Looking forward to trying the stuff up there. Its one area which I've not done much. Will probably make it out that way Fri eve.

Cheers

[Andrew B]

Has the dyno eliminate of the two finger pocket problem at Gentleman's been done (i'm pretty sure it will have been)? If so what's the name/grade?
Tried it briefly on Tuesday evening and felt like it would go for me.

[rainbow]

Has the dyno eliminate of the two finger pocket problem at Gentleman's been done (i'm pretty sure it will have been)? If so what's the name/grade?

Do you mean just going off the two finger pocket to lip. Yeah would have been done ages ago, its funny because me with my blinkers on did it that way many moons ago thinking it was a new problem. But was done well before that.

[Andrew B]

Has the dyno eliminate of the two finger pocket problem at Gentleman's been done (i'm pretty sure it will have been)? If so what's the name/grade?

Do you mean just going off the two finger pocket to lip. Yeah would have been done ages ago, its funny because me with my blinkers on did it that way many moons ago thinking it was a new problem. But was done well before that.

I meant going from the bottom shelf direct to the lip, eliminating the two finger pocket.

[rainbow]

I meant going from the bottom shelf direct to the lip, eliminating the two finger pocket.

Ahh, thinking about it that must be a monster of a move. good luck with that, and keep us updated with the progress.

[Andrew B]

I meant going from the bottom shelf direct to the lip, eliminating the two finger pocket.

Ahh, thinking about it that must be a monster of a move. good luck with that, and keep us updated with the progress.

Haha, yeah it is. But I have a secret weapon that shall defeat the monsterness!

[Scouse D]

Haha, yeah it is. But I have a secret weapon that shall defeat the monsterness!

A ladder?

[BenF]

I was out in the Churnet on Saturday and went up to the Stoney Dale Quarry area to have a go at the esoterica up there.  Just before you get to Stoney Dale Quarry and after the track leading to the little quarry, there is a small buttress just above the main track (literally ten metres from the big quarry).  There were two obvious lines on the block:  the blunt arete on the right and a curving line of holds heading leftwards via a few really cool moves to a big flat jug (with a cleaned highball topout that looks well sketchy)

Anyone know anything about these two problems?

[rainbow]

I know the wall you mean. The left line has been chalked up on and off for years. I'm pretty sure someone must have done it. Well to the jug anyway. Topping out from there looks well scary. I've had a few goes on the right arete. Great moves, it looks like the lower half is the meat of the problem but its the top half which is the tricky bit. Go forth and do that arete, that might inspire me to get back on it. I've done it on a shunt and thought a intense 7b. Make of that what you will.

[BenF]

Ah, I'd forgotten I'd posted this.  Should have mailed you as I knew you'd have the knowledge...

Well, the curving left hand line is pretty good, especially from a sitter by the arete.  The hard move, doing a big rockover to the crimps before the jug being very pleasing.  I didn't have the balls to seriously try the topout as it was so blind, high, sketchy, I'm a coward etc etc.  So I satisfied myself with dropping off from the jug.  I did manage to fall off matching the big jug the first time I got up there, and contrived to hit the edge of the ledge below, then bounce down into the undergrowth and dirt.  Not a nice experience but it made me laugh as i cleaned the mud out of my shoes and clothes.  Anyway, a worthwhile problem but it needs to be topped out sometime.

Likewise, the arete has a less than ideal landing, being slopey and quite far away from the top.  However, you have me psyched now and I may head back there to try it when things cool down a little. 

Thanks for getting back to me.