[abarro81]

Ok, so it's not really about being more like Jerry, I just thought my title was a bit boring.
Anyway:
1. Minus 10, problem 3. Are you supposed to match pocket 13? I couldn't for the life of me see how to jump to 33 with my left from R in 13 and L on 9. Or is it just the usual and I need to man up (do they do courses in this? i seem to struggle)
2. Zippy's problem (etc): hold 42, do you have to pinch the 'front' of it or is it ok to let your fingers sneak into the positive bits round the back?
3. Armbandit (Tom's): Anyone have any knowledge on feet for the last move? I'm not actually sure if I located hold K correctly - is it out near J and facing very much the same direction as I (i.e. outwards), or one of the mini undercut-style things closer to L (there seems to be one just right next to L)?
Ta very much to any stoney lovers with the knowledge...

[dobbin]

I'd have to look in the guide to be able to help, and since I left mine in a puddle at Gardoms and it expanded I can no longer do so. Sorry.

[Kingy]

Ok, so it's not really about being more like Jerry, I just thought my title was a bit boring.
Anyway:
1. Minus 10, problem 3. Are you supposed to match pocket 13? I couldn't for the life of me see how to jump to 33 with my left from R in 13 and L on 9. Or is it just the usual and I need to man up (do they do courses in this? i seem to struggle)
2. Zippy's problem (etc): hold 42, do you have to pinch the 'front' of it or is it ok to let your fingers sneak into the positive bits round the back?
3. Armbandit (Tom's): Anyone have any knowledge on feet for the last move? I'm not actually sure if I located hold K correctly - is it out near J and facing very much the same direction as I (i.e. outwards), or one of the mini undercut-style things closer to L (there seems to be one just right next to L)?
Ta very much to any stoney lovers with the knowledge...

I am at work and will have a look at my guide when I get back but from memory:

1. This is the 7b+ on sidepulls right? yes match pocket 13. Off matched on the finger sloper, lock up with RH to right hand side of pocket which is a good finger jam (I think I just got my middle finger in it to leave room for the LH) then get good undercut bit of pocket with LH. Then the move to 33 is static.

2. Is this the scratched sloper underneath the Young American block? I think it is. The guide mentions no holding the good bit at the back in the description. I crimp one of the scratch marks at the very front of the sloper but some locals swear that even using the (not very) positive bits at the back makes no difference. For peace of mind, use only the front bit.

3. I have not done the problem but I started a thread on the subject last year which may be of some use:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8921.0.html

Enjoy!!

[abarro81]

Ta
42 is the starting right hand hold, not the sloper. The guide just calls it a pinch I think, but allowing the fingers to sneak around to the positive bits at the back seemed liable to be dodgy..

[Steve R]

yes, when I pulled on crimping the back of said hold and then re-read the guide describing what I'd just crimped as a pinch it made me think.....  
I was then disappointed when I failed to pull on holding it as a pinch...

[Kingy]

Oh yeah you're right, that is the pinch that Moony pulls on with his RH from the sitter on Pinch 2 in One Summer. I used to pull on the ripple at the front of the hold which had a positive bit to it. Then I realised that using the whole of the hold was a little easier. There is a sort of positive crimpy bit way at the back which I have never used but i'd imagine this was not in. It would not help dramatically but Moony does not appear to use it, if you look at OS and the way he takes the hold, although the picture quality is admittedly not the best.  yes, the pinch is the smooth part of the hold without the crimpy bit at the back in my book. Look at feet in the vid, there are some tiny smears used that are not at all obvious if you're trying to work it out at the crag.

Hell, I thought I was the only one who wanted to know the answer to this burning issue!

[etjoset]

Minus 10 problem 3 - I reached the pocket with an outstretched thumb (not sure which one), making sure that I left space for my other thumb once I began to stand up and gain height. I then replaced both thumbs with upturned middle fingers (in a sort of fuck you style), one in each side of the pocket. This enabled me to work my feet up high onto better footholds from where I could lurch for the top hold 33. A few years ago now but I remember it quite well because this was my first 7b+. A classy problem (for Minus 10).

Zippy's problem. I used that starting hold as a proper pinch. My fingers sort of go round the side but not at the back - there is a very small and vague divot that either your first or middle finger can sit in quite neatly. My thumb goes to the left to make it a proper pinch. The key to that first move is not necessarily the handhold, it's more about what boots you are wearing and whether they will stay on the foothold (low outside left). For information, I did the 7c version of this (the one using the left hand as a pinch on the lip of the roof) before I did the original 7b+ version using the sidepull. If you do those two, the harder 7c+ version is not really that much harder. I did them all in the same week. Also note that there are two ways to get your right hand on sloper 47 (that Ted mentions) below the roof - one direct at the base and one a bit to the right as a sort of shouldery move (I thought this latter place was better, though others disagree).

Not done Armbandit

[Kingy]

  The one remaining issue being on Zippy's whether you must use outside LF on the starting foothold or whether you are allowed to start 'front on' and use inside LF - I must say I found this easier and this is how I started these 3 problems (and the Nasty Traverse). If you must start with outside LF then surely this is the eliminate to end all eliminates! ...we are talking Stoney though.

BTW, the 7b+ version of Zippy's is about the same grade as the 7c, maybe slightly harder even.

[etjoset]

The one remaining issue being on Zippy's whether you must use outside LF on the starting foothold or whether you are allowed to start 'front on' and use inside LF

Even by Minus 10 standards, stipulating which way round your foot has to be on a hold is probably a bit OTT. Needless to say, I wasn't implying that you must use an outside left on the starting foothold. All this Stoney talk is making me hungry to get back there.