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significant repeats (Read 4662279 times)

remus

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#11475 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2023, 06:10:29 pm
Melissa Le Neve has repeated Le Voyage E10 in Annot, France. It's a popular route by the looks of it, having had at least 14 ascents in 6 years.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cz_pv6btOz0/?img_index=1

Duncan campbell

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#11476 Re: significant repeats
November 23, 2023, 10:04:27 pm
But are the gear placements technical or pumpy?


shark

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#11477 Re: significant repeats
November 24, 2023, 10:34:32 pm
Steve Mac says the crux felt harder than 6C to him and took him half an hour to work out.

ferret

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#11478 Re: significant repeats
November 24, 2023, 11:18:12 pm
Steve Mac says the crux felt harder than 6C to him and took him half an hour to work out.
Yeah but she climbs in Font all the time so she's probably used to spending a whole day falling on a 6C and only doing it because you got the beta from watching an old man in a hideous colored fleece stroll up it after smoking a cigarette

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#11479 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2023, 06:16:45 pm
Connor Herson repeated Meltdown the other day https://www.instagram.com/p/C0Hcwqkujq2/?igshid=NTYzOWQzNmJjMA==

remus

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#11480 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2023, 07:35:10 pm
Nice! Fifth ascent I think?

Pete Whittaker has made the fourth ascent of Stranger than Fiction E10/8c, Mason Earle's desert crack that Lor Saborin recently repeated.

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#11481 Re: significant repeats
November 26, 2023, 10:16:54 pm
Nice! Fifth ascent I think?

Pete Whittaker has made the fourth ascent of Stranger than Fiction E10/8c, Mason Earle's desert crack that Lor Saborin recently repeated.

Very cool. From the recent wideboyz video it looked like it wouldn't take him too long. I thought it looked like a stellar route / line, one for the life list.

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#11482 Re: significant repeats
November 27, 2023, 05:07:18 pm
Pete Whittaker has made the fourth ascent of Stranger than Fiction E10/8c, Mason Earle's desert crack that Lor Saborin recently repeated.

Third ascent, surely? Unless someone else snuck in and nabbed the third.

remus

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#11483 Re: significant repeats
November 27, 2023, 05:25:16 pm
Brittany Goris climbed it on pre-placed gear last year, she didnt want to publicise it though as she wanted to do it placing the gear first.

https://climbing-history.org/climb/2839/stranger-than-fiction

slab_happy

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#11484 Re: significant repeats
November 27, 2023, 05:39:59 pm
Ah right, thanks!

remus

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#11485 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2023, 06:16:24 am
Ryohei Kameyama maaaay have flashed a problem called Flux 8C in Japan, pretty unclear though.

In this vid it has an overlay which says 'first go' which is ambiguous. He also posted about doing the problem on insta a couple of weeks ago, but with no mention of it being a flash which feels odd if he has flashed it.

It's within the realms of possibility though as he's certainly got the palmares (No Kpote Only second ascent, Floatin etc. https://climbing-history.org/climber/669/ryohei-kameyama)

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CzoJIffSU3a/

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#11486 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2023, 08:59:44 am
Ryohei Kameyama maaaay have flashed a problem called Flux 8C in Japan, pretty unclear though.

In this vid it has an overlay which says 'first go' which is ambiguous. He also posted about doing the problem on insta a couple of weeks ago, but with no mention of it being a flash which feels odd if he has flashed it.

It's within the realms of possibility though as he's certainly got the palmares (No Kpote Only second ascent, Floatin etc. https://climbing-history.org/climber/669/ryohei-kameyama)

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CzoJIffSU3a/

It looks like he climbed a higher start to this earlier this year called Alter so I'm guessing Flux may have just been first go from the start

https://www.instagram.com/p/CsTAZR9S5M3/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

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#11487 Re: significant repeats
December 01, 2023, 01:08:18 pm
Pure imagination flash for Jesse Grupper

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#11488 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2023, 04:16:03 pm
Ryohei Kameyama maaaay have flashed a problem called Flux 8C in Japan, pretty unclear though.

In this vid it has an overlay which says 'first go' which is ambiguous. He also posted about doing the problem on insta a couple of weeks ago, but with no mention of it being a flash which feels odd if he has flashed it.

It's within the realms of possibility though as he's certainly got the palmares (No Kpote Only second ascent, Floatin etc. https://climbing-history.org/climber/669/ryohei-kameyama)

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CzoJIffSU3a/

It looks like he climbed a higher start to this earlier this year called Alter so I'm guessing Flux may have just been first go from the start

https://www.instagram.com/p/CsTAZR9S5M3/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

https://www.8a.nu/news/ryohei-kameyama-completes-flux-8c-v8v3z

This post seems to kind of confirm this, seems as though he practiced the moves for a couple of days then got it on his first go from the start.

Bradders

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#11489 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2023, 04:29:02 pm
So not first go at all...

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#11490 Re: significant repeats
December 03, 2023, 04:31:05 pm
I might be mistaking my significant repeats thread for my strong brits thread, but it looks like Sam Prior did 8C the other day https://www.instagram.com/p/C0XGyVJNFD4/

remus

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#11491 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 09:13:38 am
Tomoa has flashed Gakidō 8C+ in Japan! After some discussion with Shinichiro Nomura (who made the FA) he's suggested a downgrade to 8B+. It'll be interesting to see where it settles, as Ryuichi Murai suggested 8C+ when he made the second ascent and both Ryuichi and Shinichiro have the palmares.

Reading the comments from the various ascents it sounds like an unusual problem, with some funny positions that mean the problem looks like it is easier than it actually feels on the go. Sounds like it fit Tomoa pretty well though, so maybe it's one of those that is a bit morpho and feels significantly easier if you fit in the box.

I could imagine it settling down to 8C, which would make Tomoa's ascent the first ever flash of an 8C.

Tomoa also added the sit, which adds a 4 move 8B in to the stand. Doing some napkin grade maths, even if you think the stand is 8B+ it's surely going to add up to at least 8C+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1GGUEsPL3U/

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#11492 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 09:33:22 am
Tomoa has flashed Gakidō 8C+ in Japan! After some discussion with Shinichiro Nomura (who made the FA) he's suggested a downgrade to 8B+. It'll be interesting to see where it settles, as Ryuichi Murai suggested 8C+ when he made the second ascent and both Ryuichi and Shinichiro have the palmares.

Reading the comments from the various ascents it sounds like an unusual problem, with some funny positions that mean the problem looks like it is easier than it actually feels on the go. Sounds like it fit Tomoa pretty well though, so maybe it's one of those that is a bit morpho and feels significantly easier if you fit in the box.

I could imagine it settling down to 8C, which would make Tomoa's ascent the first ever flash of an 8C.

Tomoa also added the sit, which adds a 4 move 8B in to the stand. Doing some napkin grade maths, even if you think the stand is 8B+ it's surely going to add up to at least 8C+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1GGUEsPL3U/

Jesus Christ! Not bad for a rest day between comp training sessions.

Bradders

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#11493 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 09:48:24 am
What a flipping monster.

Ryuichi did suggest he thought it was soft when he did it, and that he and Nomura would discuss the grades once they'd both done Floatin'

https://www.instagram.com/p/CkgMghwp5Bw/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

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#11494 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 12:26:31 pm
I did a Floater the other day ... does that count?

remus

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#11495 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 04:41:59 pm
Jakob has done alphane. Cements him pretty firmly as one of the best all rounders imo: B.I.G earlier this year, world champs wins and then this.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1HwsHeIt2w/?igsh=MWo1cm54aDE2dGh1dw==
« Last Edit: December 21, 2023, 04:48:05 pm by remus »

Ed booth

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#11496 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 04:49:24 pm
Beast

Will Hunt

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#11497 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 05:42:04 pm
Is that Alphane cusped now? Or did Lorenzi cusp it?

Bradders

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#11498 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 05:56:12 pm
First person to climb 9A boulder and 9c sport, assuming Terranova doesn't get upgraded and Alphane doesn't get downgraded  :-\

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#11499 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 07:06:40 pm
Awesome, seems like a great boulder for a strength endurance beast like Schubert.

 

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