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significant repeats (Read 4658355 times)

shark

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#11525 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 12:43:02 pm
Thatís not implied and stop dissing the Tor. It would be because he couldnít do the moves because he isnít a crimp waif.

Will Hunt

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#11526 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 12:47:33 pm
Yes, all of you, please, stop dissing the Tor, you're making the Sheffielders very upset.

Bradders

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#11527 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 01:54:58 pm
Much as I don't want to derail the Peak bashing, Beckett Hsin has done The Game 8C

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1JCuXGuwlP/?igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

Can't be many people who've climbed an 8C at 14 years old?

James Malloch

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#11528 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 03:15:48 pm
Kind of similar. A video of Sharma going and doing an old school Marc Le Menestral 8b+.

It looked like a path for him.

https://youtu.be/23bpWyCIm_w?si=xq3vHhknIu-KUGXo

PeteHukb

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#11529 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 03:36:25 pm
Can't be many people who've climbed an 8C at 14 years old?

This article alleges that Ashima was the youngest to climb 8C when she climbed Horizon just before her 15th birthday.

https://www.climbing.com/news/ashima-shiraishi-sets-new-standard/

Her record was broken by Mishka Ishi who climbed 8C when she was 13.

https://www.climbernews.com/13-year-old-mishka-ishi-becomes-youngest-person-to-climb-v15-boulder/

As far I can see, that's it. Oriane Bertone climbed 8B+ aged 15, which is close.

abarro81

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#11530 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 04:07:58 pm
The tor is shit and we all know it. There's a big difference between 2 grades and 6 grades. There are shit loads of 8cs in the world I couldn't climb; in sure there are also 8as I couldnt do but far far fewer!

petejh

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#11531 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 04:32:00 pm
Ah yeah forgot mutation had been upped to 9a+. (Seems then a reasonable likelihood Stoneís 8c examples may be 8c+? So 5 gradesÖ)

Does seem unlikely that a 9c wad wouldnít be able to climb virtually any 8c, even a marks&spencer peak 8c.

stone

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#11532 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 06:09:06 pm
Somehow Super is a lot weirder than Mutation though isn't it? Mutation is pulling through steep ground on little crimps then a wild burly move, then a precarious vertical finish. Somehow Super is blank vertical limestone all the way. The grading isn't amongst other benchmark routes of that style is it?

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#11533 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 06:14:39 pm
Realistically, I don't think anyone really knows, it's had so little attention!

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#11534 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 06:20:59 pm
I want to agree with this, as I instinctively want to disagree with Stone's implication that there are 8c's in the peak that truly world-class 9c wads couldn't do (or would struggle for ages on). But wasn't the 9b+ version of Sharma once quoted: 'I'll never be able to do Mutation'? I know it's not 'full number grade' difference... but if Stone's 8c examples were sandbagged and are really 8c+ then it isn't that far off.

I think Sharma is a completely different question, in that he's clearly very strong in some styles and weaker in others. You might be able to find an 8c slab or similar that he just couldn't do. Or perhaps not, I think this facet of his climbing is probably exaggerated, but it's certainly true relative to some other top climbers.

Jakob (or any other modern comp climber for that matter) are so good across all styles that they don't tend to have any real weaknesses, and so I don't think any obscure sandbag 8c (or harder, likely) would give him much bother.

Fiend

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#11535 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 07:01:18 pm
Somehow Super is a lot weirder than Mutation though isn't it? Mutation is pulling through steep ground on little crimps then a wild burly move, then a precarious vertical finish. Somehow Super is blank vertical limestone all the way. The grading isn't amongst other benchmark routes of that style is it?

How is Somehow Super climbed then? Sounds intriguing.

spidermonkey09

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#11536 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 07:41:22 pm
Maybe it's shit. Hard routes are not necessarily good routes.

stone

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#11537 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2023, 10:10:52 am
Felix said he really enjoyed Somehow Super and wasn't complaining of trashed skin or anything. I only saw him on it when he first started working it (what I was on at the Cornice later got wet and so I climbed at a different crag). From what I could see at that stage of the process he could, with difficulty, suss out individual moves but could only sustain his levitation systems for a few goes, at individual moves, before they tired and he couldn't anymore.

My impression from that Sharma video is that Magie Blanche looks like a longer version of Love Amongst The Butterflies. That's a popular classic that gets done regularly. My guess is that most of the people who do Love Amongst The Butterflies wouldn't be able to pull on on Somehow Super.

Perhaps Somehow Super would be path for the top people. I'd still be more in awe watching them path it than any other route I know of.

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#11538 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2023, 10:14:07 am
Has Bosi not tried it?

remus

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#11539 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2023, 12:07:54 pm
Perhaps Somehow Super would be path for the top people. I'd still be more in awe watching them path it than any other route I know of.

I kinda know what you mean here. Although I can conceptually understand that Seb questing through Flatanger in a 100m single pitch is super hard it's difficult to really comprehend if you haven't climbed similar routes. It all jsut ends up in the "much harder than I can climb" bracket. I've spent some time on crimpy peak lime nasties though, so somehow it'd be all the more impressive to see an uber-wad smash them in, because it's a level of difficulty I can understand.

Paul B

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#11540 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2023, 12:45:22 pm
This feels like the same scenario as when everyone thought the Hard Grit routes would stand up against foreign raiders but then Team America (f*ck yeah) turned up and walked up most of it with Honnold lapping things for photos.

I think it would be a bit naive to assume that Austria doesn't have it's fair share of minging hard routes that involve levitating on tiny holds. It's not as if Zillertal is known to be particularly skin friendly! They also have old skool limestone venues.

andy popp

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#11541 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2023, 02:28:52 pm
This feels like the same scenario as when everyone thought the Hard Grit routes would stand up against foreign raiders but then Team America (f*ck yeah) turned up and walked up most of it with Honnold lapping things for photos.

This. Watch a handful of videos and it's obvious that current elites (comp and outdoors) have incredible movement and technical skills. They are not only much stronger than past elites they are often much better climbers. The whole "but what's he done on grit" scenario is a bit silly and embarrassing (even if often said tongue in cheek). There's too much mythologising.

duncan

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#11542 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2023, 03:56:45 pm
This feels like the same scenario as when everyone thought the Hard Grit routes would stand up against foreign raiders but then Team America (f*ck yeah) turned up and walked up most of it with Honnold lapping things for photos.

I think it would be a bit naive to assume that Austria doesn't have it's fair share of minging hard routes that involve levitating on tiny holds. It's not as if Zillertal is known to be particularly skin friendly! They also have old skool limestone venues.

Also (some) US climbers throughs on Ondra's chances before he rinsed Dawn Wall, forgetting an upbringing which included Czech sandstone cracks and big walling in Madagascar.

shurt

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#11543 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2023, 05:59:09 pm
This feels like the same scenario as when everyone thought the Hard Grit routes would stand up against foreign raiders but then Team America (f*ck yeah) turned up and walked up most of it with Honnold lapping things for photos.

I think it would be a bit naive to assume that Austria doesn't have it's fair share of minging hard routes that involve levitating on tiny holds. It's not as if Zillertal is known to be particularly skin friendly! They also have old skool limestone venues.

Also (some) US climbers throughs on Ondra's chances before he rinsed Dawn Wall, forgetting an upbringing which included Czech sandstone cracks and big walling in Madagascar.


Probably the wrong thread but, as the years go by and the multi year sieges by various people on Dawn Wall continue, Ondras ascent was utterly mind blowing. He just does so much amazing stuff that it was a bit "Oh there goes Ondra again" at the time...

teestub

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#11544 Re: significant repeats
December 24, 2023, 06:07:23 pm
Probably the wrong thread but, as the years go by and the multi year sieges by various people on Dawn Wall continue, Ondras ascent was utterly mind blowing. He just does so much amazing stuff that it was a bit "Oh there goes Ondra again" at the time...

💯 itís such a shame the footage of that never came to light, but in some ways I think that makes it even more mythical (in the good meaning)

jakaitch

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#11545 Re: significant repeats
December 25, 2023, 10:41:19 am

yetix

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#11546 Re: significant repeats
December 25, 2023, 10:43:44 am
3rd go of the day?

Bradders

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#11547 Re: significant repeats
December 25, 2023, 11:13:00 am
Yeah, 3rd of the day having been trying it say on / day off beforehand.

dunnyg

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#11548 Re: significant repeats
December 25, 2023, 07:23:57 pm
Made it look piss. Amazing!

teestub

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#11549 Re: significant repeats
December 25, 2023, 07:26:24 pm
The Raboutous on Box Therapy


 

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