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significant repeats (Read 4306597 times)

Fiend

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#11500 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 07:12:49 pm
First person to climb 9A boulder and 9c sport, assuming Terranova doesn't get upgraded and Alphane doesn't get downgraded  :-\
That's some top chinstroke potential there!! Great news from Jakob and Tomoa!!

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#11501 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 07:32:29 pm
Jakob has done alphane. Cements him pretty firmly as one of the best all rounders imo: B.I.G earlier this year, world champs wins and then this.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1HwsHeIt2w/?igsh=MWo1cm54aDE2dGh1dw==

I'm nit picking a bit here, but I'd be a lot more impressed if it was a massive 9c like BIG, and burden. Alphane is basically just a stamina plod isn't it?

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#11502 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 07:36:00 pm
From watching Lorenzo's video it sounds like the first two moves of Alphane are pretty flipping hard. So yes a stamina element to it but you've got to be very strong too.

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#11503 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 07:57:36 pm

I'm nit picking a bit here, but I'd be a lot more impressed if it was a massive 9c like BIG, and burden. Alphane is basically just a stamina plod isn't it?

Jeez tough crowd 🤣

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#11504 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 08:07:33 pm
I know. I'm still very impressed. I'll just be more impressed when he does bod.

Was it this year that he repeated that hard dws of sharmas? Is that still considered the hardest dws in the world? Hardest dws, sport route, and boulder problem in a year. Decent. If only he'd also done bon voyage and Dawn wall.

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#11505 Re: significant repeats
December 21, 2023, 08:30:52 pm
He didn't even bother to summit K2 this year either. Lame!

Fiend

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#11506 Re: significant repeats
December 22, 2023, 07:20:39 am
He's got over a week for Bon Voyage...

T_B

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#11507 Re: significant repeats
December 22, 2023, 09:16:58 am
Tbf he could probably get K2 done if he did the usual trick of helicoptering in a team of Sherpas to trail break from the summit down.

Anyway, more importantly what’s his Parkrun PB?

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#11508 Re: significant repeats
December 22, 2023, 09:38:57 am
Tbf he could probably get K2 done if he did the usual trick of helicoptering in a team of Sherpas to trail break from the summit down.

Anyway, more importantly what’s his Parkrun PB?

Which park though, ‘cause some are faster than others  ;)

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#11509 Re: significant repeats
December 22, 2023, 10:53:25 am
Tbf he could probably get K2 done if he did the usual trick of helicoptering in a team of Sherpas to trail break from the summit down.

Anyway, more importantly what’s his Parkrun PB?

Probably upsettingly fast :'(

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#11510 Re: significant repeats
December 22, 2023, 12:49:58 pm
I feel like he could definitely do Dawn Wall. I doubt there's many routes he can't do tbh.

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#11511 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 07:34:10 am
I feel like he could definitely do Dawn Wall. I doubt there's many routes he can't do tbh.

I'm genuinely interested in how he or other uberwads (including eg Franco Cookson) would find https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/chee_dale_lower-10866/somehow_super-100030


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#11512 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 08:06:58 am
 Surely he'd very likely piss it as its a full number grade below his best? What am I missing, is this route considered undergraded?

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#11513 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 08:30:48 am
Surely he'd very likely piss it as its a full number grade below his best? What am I missing, is this route considered undergraded?

Indeed. Id guess it's probably pretty hard for 8c compared to some euro tufa-fest, and it's gonna be dirty because it hardly gets any traffic, but having 6 grades in hand does wonders for your ability to get up stuff. It'd be good fun getting a mega wad down to the cornice and watching them clean up though!

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#11514 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 08:33:14 am
Tomoa has flashed Gakidō 8C+ in Japan! After some discussion with Shinichiro Nomura (who made the FA) he's suggested a downgrade to 8B+. It'll be interesting to see where it settles, as Ryuichi Murai suggested 8C+ when he made the second ascent and both Ryuichi and Shinichiro have the palmares.

Reading the comments from the various ascents it sounds like an unusual problem, with some funny positions that mean the problem looks like it is easier than it actually feels on the go. Sounds like it fit Tomoa pretty well though, so maybe it's one of those that is a bit morpho and feels significantly easier if you fit in the box.

I could imagine it settling down to 8C, which would make Tomoa's ascent the first ever flash of an 8C.

Tomoa also added the sit, which adds a 4 move 8B in to the stand. Doing some napkin grade maths, even if you think the stand is 8B+ it's surely going to add up to at least 8C+.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C1GGUEsPL3U/

Tomoa has called the sit Ashurado and suggested 8C.

https://climbing-history.org/climb/2962/ashurad%C5%8D

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#11515 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 08:40:10 am
If Ryuichi took 8C+ for the stand, something tells me this will be one of the most unrepeatable 8C's out there! Ryuichi is definitely not shit!

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#11516 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 08:48:30 am
If Ryuichi took 8C+ for the stand, something tells me this will be one of the most unrepeatable 8C's out there! Ryuichi is definitely not shit!

As Bradders pointed out I think he actually said something like "it's easier than all the other 8C+s I've done", but didnt go so far as to explicitly down grade it. Agree with your point though, I suspect it's no softy!

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#11517 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 09:28:33 am
Surely he'd very likely piss it as its a full number grade below his best? What am I missing, is this route considered undergraded?

Indeed. Id guess it's probably pretty hard for 8c compared to some euro tufa-fest, and it's gonna be dirty because it hardly gets any traffic, but having 6 grades in hand does wonders for your ability to get up stuff. It'd be good fun getting a mega wad down to the cornice and watching them clean up though!

My (dumb) guess is that they would warm up by flashing all the steep stuff but then be shutdown on Asian Shadow Play 8b and Somehow Super 8c even if they were spotlessly cleaned beforehand. Holdless vert climbing is a different world isn't it?

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#11518 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 09:42:20 am
Having seen where Ondra's 9b at Acephale in Canada goes (basically looks like the Prince at Avon but with an 8b exit) and given he onsighted or flashed one of the 8b+ slabs there, I suspect Ondra would have a good flash go on even Somehow Super. He's very good at that stuff. No idea how good Jacob is in that style but I think most modern comp climbers would adapt pretty quick

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#11519 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 10:11:34 am
How did Ondra and Megos find the last bit of Mutation after the cross-over move? I guess that is like a short easier version of the terrain on Somehow Super. They didn't manage to climb Mutation after all. Obviously I'm talking from a position of extreme ignorance!

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#11520 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 10:23:53 am
I love the breadth of opinions here. Schubert can do any route in the world, but he's still going to get shut down by an 8c slice of Peak choss.

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#11521 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 10:32:13 am
I love the breadth of opinions here. Schubert can do any route in the world, but he's still going to get shut down by an 8c slice of Peak choss.

Worth noting that it is other people's informed opinion versus my (sincere) stupid opinion  ;D

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#11522 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 10:43:23 am
I just don't think there is any conceivable universe where someone would not be capable of climbing something a full number grade below their max, assuming the grades are roughly right. The Peak isn't a magical anti gravity zone where those not schooled in the uniquely British dark arts of small crimps are ritually humiliated in a candlelit ceremony in the cave at Raven Tor!

With the above in mind re accuracy of grades, to apply to a personal level I don't think there is eg a 7b in the world that I wouldn't be able to redpoint with enough time. I'm equally confident eg Barrows would be able to do any 8a on the world (even those without any knees ha ha ha) . Why would Ondra/Schubert be any different? 8c is comparatively piss for them.

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#11523 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 11:27:23 am
I want to agree with this, as I instinctively want to disagree with Stone's implication that there are 8c's in the peak that truly world-class 9c wads couldn't do (or would struggle for ages on). But wasn't the 9b+ version of Sharma once quoted: 'I'll never be able to do Mutation'? I know it's not 'full number grade' difference... but if Stone's 8c examples were sandbagged and are really 8c+ then it isn't that far off.

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#11524 Re: significant repeats
December 23, 2023, 11:50:30 am
I want to agree with this, as I instinctively want to disagree with Stone's implication that there are 8c's in the peak that truly world-class 9c wads couldn't do (or would struggle for ages on). But wasn't the 9b+ version of Sharma once quoted: 'I'll never be able to do Mutation'? I know it's not 'full number grade' difference... but if Stone's 8c examples were sandbagged and are really 8c+ then it isn't that far off.

I think the implication of the Sharma quote was "I'll never climb mutation because it's all about horrible crimping on a chossy crag, I'd rather spend my time in Spain ticking off proper world class lines."

 

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