[ferret]

Sounds like it involves having a larger span than other ascentionists rather than finding something they missed.
Perhaps more of a if you are long enough to do it this way downgrade rather than an overall downgrade for the average climber. Guess it depends on how you think things should be graded

[remus]

Someone on reddit said that he was able to do the move to the sloper/slot from a lower/better undercut vs. what other people used.

[jwi]

Nicolas Moineau, a blind climber from Cahors, has repeated Los tacos de los dos rigolos, 8a, in Saint-Géry. Wild. I found this route pretty solid for 8a, and quite complex. Lots of tiny feet in the first part and some big committing moves on top.


https://fanatic-climbing.com/nicolas-moineau-non-voyant-arrive-dans-le-8eme-degre-nicolas-moineau-sightless-opens-his-8th-degree-counter/

[SA Chris]

That's incredible.

[remus]

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has made the fifth ascent of Bibliographie 9b+ at Ceuse.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CyiUiIAt98R/

[Duma]

Jo Neame has flashed Sàtiva Patàtica 8a in Margalef according to her UKC. Can't remember the numbers from when this was last discussed but there can't be many UK women who've flashed at this level.

[Muenchener]

Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon by Hazel Findlay and Angus Kille. 5.13+R, 13 pitches. First ascent as A5 in 1980, freed by Hansjörg Auer in 201, apparently about half a dozen ascents since.

[just another username]

Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon by Hazel Findlay and Angus Kille. 5.13+R, 13 pitches. First ascent as A5 in 1980, freed by Hansjörg Auer in 201, apparently about half a dozen ascents since.

Hansjörg looking awfully good for his age nowadays.

[ferret]

Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon by Hazel Findlay and Angus Kille. 5.13+R, 13 pitches. First ascent as A5 in 1980, freed by Hansjörg Auer in 201, apparently about half a dozen ascents since.

Hansjörg looking awfully good for his age nowadays.

He's dead!

[jwi]

Hallucinogen Wall in the Black Canyon by Hazel Findlay and Angus Kille. 5.13+R, 13 pitches. First ascent as A5 in 1980, freed by Hansjörg Auer in 201, apparently about half a dozen ascents since.

Hansjörg looking awfully good for his age nowadays.

He's dead!

ὃν οἱ θεοὶ φιλοῦσιν ἀποθνῄσκει νέος, I guess.

[remus]

Florian Wientjes has made the second ascent of Floatin', Ryuichi Murai's 8C+ at Mizugaki in Japan.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cyx_ZyHSX9e/

[NPriestley]

Florian Wientjes has made the second ascent of Floatin', Ryuichi Murai's 8C+ at Mizugaki in Japan.


"For me, initiating the move with a pogo felt more approachable than Ryuichi's campus."

Did he French it?!

[JamieG]

I don’t think so. If I remember the problem correctly there is a big foothold down low but it didn’t help ryuichi, so he opted for the campus.

[Wellsy]

I don’t think so. If I remember the problem correctly there is a big foothold down low but it didn’t help ryuichi, so he opted for the campus.

When I did it I used the campus so fair play to Ryuichi tbh

[JamieG]

 

I don’t think so. If I remember the problem correctly there is a big foothold down low but it didn’t help ryuichi, so he opted for the campus.

When I did it I used the campus so fair play to Ryuichi tbh

 

[NPriestley]

I don’t think so. If I remember the problem correctly there is a big foothold down low but it didn’t help ryuichi, so he opted for the campus.

Oh yeah, Ryuchi's early beta is in the Mellow vid. Thought Florian had just jumped through the crux!

[jwi]

In Japan, looking for boulderproblems with a straight-up jump was a pretty successful grade/effort strategy for me (180 cm tall).

[Dingdong]

Leon Joyce repeated The Ace today and made it look well casual to boot

[Dexter]

Good effort Leon. It's been a long time coming.

[jwi]

Fabrice Landry has repeated "Chicken Deluxe" at Super Manjoc, the hardest route in France's south west region and persist in the nonsense of calling it 9a+

[finbarrr]

I feel teased: please tell why (nonsense)

[jwi]

I feel teased: please tell why (nonsense)

Both ascensionists clearly thinks it's 9b, but not a very hard one, and opted for 9a+.

[remus]

How does that old French saying go? Something like

S'il vous plaît, ne rétrogradez pas mon projet Seb

[Duma]

Looool

[jwi]

How does that old French saying go? Something like

S'il vous plaît, ne rétrogradez pas mon projet Seb

Hahah! I think they are safe from Mr Bouin. He thinks the effort/grade ratio in Super Manjoc is suboptimal for a working pro-climber who send endurance routes for a living.

(The verb you are looking for is decoter)