I chucked too. Also tried to find said vid to what it looks like.
All grade barriers need a bottom, middle and top end.
I accept that debates will still happen, but I would hope it would be clearer that a tough high 7 was just a tough high 7 and not a low 8, versus the current state of affairs where the boundary between grades is imprecise at best and categorising them in such a granular way doesn't leave open the potential variation of experience for different people.
I found the approach taken by the Indian Creek guide to reduce the resolution of highly morpho crack routes by using 5.##-, 5.##, & 5.##+ instead of the four a, b, c, d subdivision worked well.
Speaking of which, I see Alex Waterhouse flashed Belly Full of Bad Berries the other day, with basically no experience of the style.
Brilliant! One up on Ondra! I would think he had the right physique for inverted off-widths!When they quote YDS as 5.11-, 5.11, 5.11+ etc the grade band get exactly as wide as Scandinavian grades (33% wider than French half-grades). That does not change much. Scandinavian grades have fallen out of fashion in sport climbing as the grade spans are .... eh... too wide. They are still used for trad though, so the width of the bands might be just right for that purpose.
Quote from: Duma link=topic= :chair:10607.msg682658#msg682658 date=1697002044Speaking of which, I see Alex Waterhouse flashed Belly Full of Bad Berries the other day, with basically no experience of the style.I think his claim of no experience is a gross exaggeration. Alex climbed "The Kraken" Font 8B a while back so he definitely has experience in crack climbing.
Yes, his girlfriend flashed it too.