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significant repeats (Read 2763917 times)

SA Chris

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#9575 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2021, 09:45:51 pm
I thought exactly that Neil.

Wood FT

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#9576 Re: significant repeats
April 28, 2021, 10:20:38 pm
He really is. Not sure I've ever met someone so psyched. Nothing better than seeing the next generation style up stuff you thought was hard. Cannot wait to see the LGPs start to tumble!


Ravenscar arÍte direct?

Franco

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#9577 Re: significant repeats
April 29, 2021, 06:52:13 am
That's probably only the 30th best lgp in the Moors like, but it would probably suit him and he lives walking distance from there. The biggies are the left hand high crag prows!

jwi

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#9578 Re: significant repeats
May 01, 2021, 12:23:40 pm
The resident downgrader of the forest has repeated "Le pilier du dťsert assis"

https://www.instagram.com/p/COSXIEzoUwI/
(with video)

Nibile

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#9579 Re: significant repeats
May 01, 2021, 12:41:34 pm
First move static. WTF.
Plus, from the light and colours it seems 100% humidity!
TrŤs bien.

Bradders

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#9580 Re: significant repeats
May 01, 2021, 03:49:51 pm
On a related note, more literature based aid going on:

https://www.instagram.com/p/COF-VTaDkRz/?igshid=160jhj1k2m8dc

Nibile

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#9581 Re: significant repeats
May 01, 2021, 04:27:16 pm
On a related note, more literature based aid going on:

https://www.instagram.com/p/COF-VTaDkRz/?igshid=160jhj1k2m8dc
I sincerely hope it's a piss take.

Duma

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#9582 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 04:03:14 pm
Hamish Potokar has done Fotofobia Sit 8B+ in La Pedriza second go.

Appropriately, there's no insta link, so here's Nacho doing it:



I get the impression from his comment on UKC he didn't find it too bad:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/la_pedriza_posterior-2660/fotofobia_sit-624862
third 8B+ this year, he did one in Jan third go too.

Fiend

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#9583 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 05:37:46 pm
Nice, that's more board-style than a board itself!

Would be impressed with a Pedriza F8b+ slab 2nd go, tho.

Adam Lincoln

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#9584 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 05:38:58 pm
Wow Pedriza looks mega!

mrjonathanr

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#9585 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 06:05:44 pm
Wow Pedriza looks mega!

I have posted on here a few times about how incredible this place is, it's world class and easy and cheap to get to. Talo MartŪn's '1864' guide has erm.. 1864 problems listed, but there'll be a lot more by now I think.

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#9586 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 06:51:49 pm
Wow Pedriza looks mega!
RIP skin is all I'll say.

moose

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#9587 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 10:06:15 pm
When I become an eccentric millionaire (or, sadly, more realistically, "if"), I'm building a climbing wall and getting that fella in as a guest setter.  I might even dedicate a special "Pedriza room" to him. The dream: ladders of nasty crimps on a huge expanse of flat 20-40 degree walls, mainly wooden holds, no slopers, and no volumes (well, maybe a few, if they have crimps screwed-on).  People under 30 y.o are only allowed entry if they have medically proven low serotonin levels.  Anyone who uses the woodie room for yoga, chin-up competitions, prolonged stretching sessions etc., which involve lolling around beneath a woodie, will be tasered without mercy or warning.

SA Chris

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#9588 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 08:39:53 am
Only fair if anything gymnastics related or people who like to think they are doing serious training by having phones timers that go BEEP every now and then are included.

monkey boy

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#9589 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 05:59:14 pm
This is very cool. Katie Lamb climbing Dominator.


shark

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#9590 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 07:51:49 pm
Whatís the story with Dominator? Thought Jerry gave it 8B. Did he overgrade or use bad beta? - no heel maybe?

Kingy

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#9591 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 08:08:33 pm
Jerry missed the heel cos they hadn't been invented back in 93  ::) Carlo Traversi recently did it sans heel for the sheer hell of it and said it was one of the hardest problems he had done (that way)

Andy B

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#9592 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 08:09:17 pm
IIRC, he didnít use a heel or guppy. He pinched the right hold and dynoed the first move with a big swing to hold.

Kingy

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#9593 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 08:20:45 pm
There is the infamous Fred Nicole spotter kick incident as well on this problem which ruffled some feathers at the time on an early repeat. Can't remember the exact details

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#9594 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 08:51:53 pm
I think those were the details! He brushed his spotter with his  foot and never redid it (donít think he tried). Like heel hooks, foot dabs had not been discovered back then.

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#9595 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 10:13:29 pm
The OG board problem! Well until it was ruined with heels, drop knees and fcking guppies.... Great ascent tho, still looks like a real fight.

remus

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#9596 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 07:26:28 am
IIRC, he didnít use a heel or guppy. He pinched the right hold and dynoed the first move with a big swing to hold.

Correct

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807/?type=3

saltbeef

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#9597 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 07:27:23 am
I wonder if she only had a salad and went for a long walk the night before ?

Nibile

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#9598 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 08:15:10 am
I'm sure she microwaved her chalk.
On a side note, what is a guppy?
« Last Edit: May 06, 2021, 08:34:36 am by Nibile »

shark

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#9599 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 08:16:41 am
IIRC, he didnít use a heel or guppy. He pinched the right hold and dynoed the first move with a big swing to hold.

Correct

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807/?type=3

Good one. Link doesnít take you to the photo directly. Same photo here: https://www.planetmountain.com/en/photos/jerry-moffatt-interview/2834?s=2

 

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