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significant repeats (Read 4235733 times)

SA Chris

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#9600 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 09:03:43 am
Probably from the time when he was ticking through the 8s there on a daily basis and it went under the radar

Nike Air

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#9601 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 09:34:40 am
My recolllection is that Steve has done it, I don't have any documentary source for this though
Yes Ted he has done it, it was a long time ago though. Probably back when on the edge or planet fear was the source of news. I also recall him saying he did it in a day.

remus

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#9602 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 09:59:55 am
Good to know. The universe felt a little out of kilter with the thought of a line at malham that Steve hadn't done. Balance is restored.

Ru

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#9603 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 10:43:31 am
I think Malc and Steve did back-to-back ascents of Transform. I thought, though I may be wrong, they were trying it together on the same day and malc did it first quickly followed by Steve.

Doylo

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#9604 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 11:51:35 am
I think Malc and Steve did back-to-back ascents of Transform. I thought, though I may be wrong, they were trying it together on the same day and malc did it first quickly followed by Steve.

Then they were doing laps on Raindogs after and Steve was dismayed Malc did it 10 times in a row (or something along those lines). Was in OTE.

SA Chris

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#9605 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 03:17:58 pm
Bat hang off stuff seems like the obvious way?

Not even close to doing one on a massive jug or even a ladder rung

Me neither. Starts assisted bat hangs thread 😂

legendary strengths of feet?

dunnyg

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#9606 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 03:42:08 pm
legendary feet of strength. Weighted bat hangs  what could go wrong.... :popcorn:

jwi

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#9607 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 03:59:14 pm
Interesting - I’m alright at heels (but not a strength) but rubbish at toe hooks. To the point I was thinking about how to train for them! (Apart from practice toe hooks)

Way OT, but anyway.

In my opinion hanging upside down from toe hooks is an abs/hip flexor exercise, as is using toe-hooks in general. If it is genuinely down to weakness in the dorsiflexion the following might help: https://exrx.net/WeightExercises/TibialisAnterior/BWSingleLegRevCalfRaise

remus

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#9608 Re: significant repeats
May 07, 2021, 09:55:41 pm
I asked the man himself about transform...

Quote from: Steve McClure
In fact I worked it with Malc. We went up for a day, he was finding it hard, I went up and found all the cunning beta, and then he did it next day but I was too knackered!! I did it a few days later!! Moral of story.... keep your beta secret!

shark

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#9609 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2021, 07:41:18 pm
I hear Eder has done Batman

Ged

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#9610 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2021, 08:06:11 pm
Are we allowed to know Eder's surname, or what Batman is?

remus

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#9611 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2021, 08:14:07 pm
Are we allowed to know Eder's surname, or what Batman is?

Eder Lomba (https://www.instagram.com/p/COpjZFFDa7Q/) and the route is a variation on Bat Route at Malham https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/malham_cove-610/batman-261088.

As I understand it Batman is basically an easier start in to the top of Rainman, Steve's 9b at Malham.

shark

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#9612 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2021, 08:44:54 pm
Steve Macgave it a slash grade of 9a/+
IIRC Neil Mawson persuaded him to do it as an insurance policy in case he didn’t tick Rainman. Josh Ibbertson has been on it too. Think both have their eyes on Rainman.

Kingy

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#9613 Re: significant repeats
May 09, 2021, 09:10:38 pm
That is awesome. First 9a repeated at the Cove that isn't Rain or Overshadow I reckon. Hopefully just a safety tick before the full rig (Rainman)!  :bow:

shark

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Kingy

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#9615 Re: significant repeats
May 10, 2021, 01:37:38 pm
I think there was a video of Steve on Batman but I can't find it. It was where the quickdraw gate stuck open on the crux and hooked onto his belay loop on one of his best redpoints. Gotta be a one in a million that one!  :o

remus

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#9616 Re: significant repeats
May 10, 2021, 01:50:04 pm
I think there was a video of Steve on Batman but I can't find it. It was where the quickdraw gate stuck open on the crux and hooked onto his belay loop on one of his best redpoints. Gotta be a one in a million that one!  :o

I remember reading that story in a blog post/mag article too. If I remember correctly the photographer had left the gate open...wouldn't have wanted to be in his shoes!


Anti

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#9618 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2021, 11:26:55 am


Nicolas Pelorson has repeated No Kpote Only, giving its 3rd ascent. He's on some good form at the moment eh!

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#9619 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2021, 11:54:00 am
 ;) 7-10-2020

Anti

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#9620 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2021, 12:03:25 pm
Oh. Weird. It just came up in the things I follow as uploaded recently - sorry! Delete if possible!

shark

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#9621 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2021, 11:02:35 am
Steve Mac has flashed Birkett’s Impact Day E86c at Pavey Ark. A bit of footage on Instagram

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPFwYjwDWhH/?


Has had a few repeats - all headpoint I think?

Honourable mention for El Mocho blowing the onsight in 99 with his hand on top of the crag.

remus

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#9622 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2021, 12:02:21 pm
Steve Mac has flashed Birkett’s Impact Day E86c at Pavey Ark. A bit of footage on Instagram

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPFwYjwDWhH/?


Has had a few repeats - all headpoint I think?

Honourable mention for El Mocho blowing the onsight in 99 with his hand on top of the crag.

Waddage. Will be cool if there's a full video coming out at some point, can't get enough of Steve cruising up hard trad.

Im not aware of any other non-headpoint ascents.

T_B

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#9623 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2021, 12:54:17 pm
Now we’re talking. Mr Motivator.

Rob F

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#9624 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2021, 01:50:48 pm
A fine demonstration of good technique...

 

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