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significant repeats (Read 4237537 times)

Nibile

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#9550 Re: significant repeats
May 01, 2021, 04:27:16 pm
On a related note, more literature based aid going on:

https://www.instagram.com/p/COF-VTaDkRz/?igshid=160jhj1k2m8dc
I sincerely hope it's a piss take.

Duma

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#9551 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 04:03:14 pm
Hamish Potokar has done Fotofobia Sit 8B+ in La Pedriza second go.

Appropriately, there's no insta link, so here's Nacho doing it:



I get the impression from his comment on UKC he didn't find it too bad:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/la_pedriza_posterior-2660/fotofobia_sit-624862
third 8B+ this year, he did one in Jan third go too.

Fiend

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#9552 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 05:37:46 pm
Nice, that's more board-style than a board itself!

Would be impressed with a Pedriza F8b+ slab 2nd go, tho.

Adam Lincoln

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#9553 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 05:38:58 pm
Wow Pedriza looks mega!

mrjonathanr

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#9554 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 06:05:44 pm
Wow Pedriza looks mega!

I have posted on here a few times about how incredible this place is, it's world class and easy and cheap to get to. Talo Martín's '1864' guide has erm.. 1864 problems listed, but there'll be a lot more by now I think.

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#9555 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 06:51:49 pm
Wow Pedriza looks mega!
RIP skin is all I'll say.

moose

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#9556 Re: significant repeats
May 04, 2021, 10:06:15 pm
When I become an eccentric millionaire (or, sadly, more realistically, "if"), I'm building a climbing wall and getting that fella in as a guest setter.  I might even dedicate a special "Pedriza room" to him. The dream: ladders of nasty crimps on a huge expanse of flat 20-40 degree walls, mainly wooden holds, no slopers, and no volumes (well, maybe a few, if they have crimps screwed-on).  People under 30 y.o are only allowed entry if they have medically proven low serotonin levels.  Anyone who uses the woodie room for yoga, chin-up competitions, prolonged stretching sessions etc., which involve lolling around beneath a woodie, will be tasered without mercy or warning.

SA Chris

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#9557 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 08:39:53 am
Only fair if anything gymnastics related or people who like to think they are doing serious training by having phones timers that go BEEP every now and then are included.

monkey boy

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#9558 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 05:59:14 pm
This is very cool. Katie Lamb climbing Dominator.


shark

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#9559 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 07:51:49 pm
What’s the story with Dominator? Thought Jerry gave it 8B. Did he overgrade or use bad beta? - no heel maybe?

Kingy

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#9560 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 08:08:33 pm
Jerry missed the heel cos they hadn't been invented back in 93  ::) Carlo Traversi recently did it sans heel for the sheer hell of it and said it was one of the hardest problems he had done (that way)

Andy B

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#9561 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 08:09:17 pm
IIRC, he didn’t use a heel or guppy. He pinched the right hold and dynoed the first move with a big swing to hold.

Kingy

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#9562 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 08:20:45 pm
There is the infamous Fred Nicole spotter kick incident as well on this problem which ruffled some feathers at the time on an early repeat. Can't remember the exact details

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#9563 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 08:51:53 pm
I think those were the details! He brushed his spotter with his  foot and never redid it (don’t think he tried). Like heel hooks, foot dabs had not been discovered back then.

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#9564 Re: significant repeats
May 05, 2021, 10:13:29 pm
The OG board problem! Well until it was ruined with heels, drop knees and fcking guppies.... Great ascent tho, still looks like a real fight.

remus

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#9565 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 07:26:28 am
IIRC, he didn’t use a heel or guppy. He pinched the right hold and dynoed the first move with a big swing to hold.

Correct

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807/?type=3

saltbeef

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#9566 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 07:27:23 am
I wonder if she only had a salad and went for a long walk the night before ?

Nibile

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#9567 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 08:15:10 am
I'm sure she microwaved her chalk.
On a side note, what is a guppy?
« Last Edit: May 06, 2021, 08:34:36 am by Nibile »

shark

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#9568 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 08:16:41 am
IIRC, he didn’t use a heel or guppy. He pinched the right hold and dynoed the first move with a big swing to hold.

Correct

https://www.facebook.com/climbing.in.the.80s/photos/a.270388289694020/421353737930807/?type=3

Good one. Link doesn’t take you to the photo directly. Same photo here: https://www.planetmountain.com/en/photos/jerry-moffatt-interview/2834?s=2

jwi

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#9569 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 08:35:36 am
The OG board problem! Well until it was ruined with heels, drop knees and fcking guppies.... Great ascent tho, still looks like a real fight.

As much as I am sceptical about modern bouldering gyms, at least they don't teach you to be a bad climber by imposing artificial rules designed to stymie technique development.


JamieG

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#9571 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 08:41:11 am
On a side note, what is a guppy?

Imagine you are trying to climb a blunt arete direct. If you cup the arete with your thumbs pointing down (same side of hold as fingers) and squeeze, sort of with the back of you hand, that is a guppy. Kind of the opposite to a layback.

In the video of Katie Lamb on Dominator it is how she takes the first right hand hold. Thumb down and cupping it with the back of her hand.

Nibile

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#9572 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 08:44:00 am
Cheers.

shark

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#9573 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 09:05:21 am
There you go.
https://m.facebook.com/carlo.traversi/posts/i-cant-say-the-crux-of-the-dominator-is-the-most-difficult-move-ive-ever-done-bu/2184713794995505/

Quote
I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience.  Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering.  What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward.  I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing.  Easily over 1000 tries.  I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road.  Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered.  In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper.  Therein lies growth.

 :bow:

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#9574 Re: significant repeats
May 06, 2021, 09:10:23 am
Quote
I can’t say the crux of The Dominator is the most difficult move I’ve ever done, but it’s certainly required the most patience.  Sticking with the original method was a conscious decision made years ago in an effort to better appreciate an important step in the progression of bouldering.  What Jerry accomplished in 1993, with this move, was a big step forward.  I’ve given this move more attempts than any other in my nearly 20 years of climbing.  Easily over 1000 tries.  I could have switched to the newer heel hook method and been done in a day, but I resolved to take the long road.  Now, having finally arrived on the other side of a long battle, I can honestly say that this move taught me more about how to move proficiently as a climber than anything else I’ve encountered.  In the age of the “quick send” it’s important to find opportunities for abiding effort, especially when the result is modest on paper.  Therein lies growth.

Superb. Absolutely.

 

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