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significant repeats (Read 2806247 times)

SA Chris

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#8950 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 11:01:20 am
Likewise.

As per kneebarrow I'm happy to have the bar set low. It's a feed, not a competition, with no threshold for inclusion.

monkey boy

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#8951 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 11:15:30 am
This is a fascinating discussion. Can someone please post links / pictures / details / quoted write-ups of all the other news listed above (apart from Elliot's that had a video posted and Ned's with one instalink). I'm not on insta / flickr / grindr / ukcr so it's really useful to have stuff posted in this thread.

No posts about Micky doing The Illusionist.

No post (I have seen) about Aidan doing Shallow Grave but it was only a few days ago apparently.

Dan's write up of Bombadil - https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

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#8952 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 11:36:57 am
I say stick it all on here and let the reader decide whether it's significant or not. Obviously Jack isn't moved by the UK sport accomplishments compared with bouldering feats, but that doesn't mean that others won't be inspired. Personally I'm impressed with Mat's Kaabah ascent, especially coming straight out of lockdown where route training had been really difficult for most. Chapeau!

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#8953 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 11:53:58 am
As I see it there are two options.

Option A is to keep this thread a place for anything anyone finds noteworthy.

Option B is that you are not allowed to post an ascent on this thread unless you have made friends with a select group of people, rung round the rumour mill to check that you haven't missed anything more noteworthy from the previous year, or spent the time to read a 1500 word shoe advert in case it contains a mention of a noteworthy FA.

Erm, I vote option A.

Though I really appreciate Jack posting on this thread; for many people it's the only way they will hear about ascents from Dan/Ned/Mickey/Aidan etc and they are obviously some of the best ascents around.

Selfishly, I also wish the suspects above were more publicity seeking. I'd much rather see pics and videos of sends of SG than most of the stuff I spend wasting my time on the internet watching. Come on guys - if not for your sponsors, do it to save me from cat videos!

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#8954 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 11:58:52 am
Thanks for the Bombadil link Dave, lovely writing (even the shoe advert at the beginning was vaguely interesting). Loved the bit on the successful go, and the idea of writing it to share that momentary perfection. Anymore pics/vid available anywhere? When Dan did Hoby Noble I thought Christianbury sounded like an amazing place and the problem really interesting and untypical for hard stuff. Be nice to see what the movement looks like.

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#8955 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 12:09:12 pm
Quick one and last post from me on here. (Barrows style struggling to walk away)

Naomi, It isn't that It doesn't move me, loads of sport stuff I find mega inspiring, especially rarely repeated or fast ascents. I just find what people get excited about strange in relation to stuff they aren't at all bothered by. Looking forward to catching up soon.

Stu I agree, I wish they were more willing to put the stuff out there. That blog is Dan's way of doing that for whatever reason.
And again i'm not saying people shouldn't post about stuff, I just wish they'd get excited about the stuff I do, and then maybe we'd see more of it.


I'll try to tap out now but leave you with the snippet that Dave Mason did his 500th 8th grade problem yesterday. Not too shabby.

monkey boy

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#8956 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 12:12:43 pm
Thanks for the Bombadil link Dave, lovely writing (even the shoe advert at the beginning was vaguely interesting). Loved the bit on the successful go, and the idea of writing it to share that momentary perfection. Anymore pics/vid available anywhere? When Dan did Hoby Noble I thought Christianbury sounded like an amazing place and the problem really interesting and untypical for hard stuff. Be nice to see what the movement looks like.

Think this photo is pretty much it - https://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/48838820561/in/photostream/. Dan does come on here a bit though so he may be able to shed more light on it.

Christianbury looks ace, I think now the road is closed it's quite a walk, Dan uses an electric bike to get up there.

I agree with Stu, I don't think posting stuff on here is a bad thing even if some deem it not to be significant. It's easy to scroll past it.

Duma

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#8957 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 12:18:32 pm
I think it's hard to judge what folk are excited about by how much reaction it gets on here, as barrows said, often I'll read something here and be psyched but won't reply as I don't feel like I've got much to add.

Contributions like yours are really valuable though as lots of this stuff by the more publicity shy wads might slide under the radar otherwise, please keep posting it!

Will Hunt

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#8958 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 12:19:05 pm
The Joe Brown article on the other channel made me think about this. Mick's been able to write an in-depth dissection of hard climbing of the era. That's helped in part because there were fewer disciplines of climbing and fewer people operating at the top, so there's less information to sort through. But I'm sure it's also helped by the fact that stuff got written down in places where it could be referred back to later, and information was properly recorded. I can sit here in my house and work out that Tony Barley did probably the second ascent of Forked Lightning Crack, then the first ascent of The Creation later in the day. The next day, he and his brother went to Malham and made the first ascent of Carnage - an outrageous piece of climbing for the time. They would have been boys at the time.

If you are a climber who has done a new route or significant repeat or anything even remotely noteworthy for the future, when you record it by posting a little video or photo on Instagram, often with little or no caption, you are effectively throwing your achievement onto landfill. Everyone else is also throwing their experiences onto this steaming shit heap of climbing, and with every new thing that is piled on top, significant or not, the stuff underneath becomes harder and harder to access. Instagram has not been set up as a way to record historically significant events in a way that they might be easily recalled and reviewed later.

To the very cool people who are out there doing these great things, the act of properly recording something that might be the hardest piece of climbing on gritstone (or any other significant things - I'm not just picking on Ned) might seem desperately uncool and showy, but when future chroniclers come to write the history books in 50 years time, don't be surprised if very few people can figure out what the fuck was going on. I can understand why people might not like to share what they've done - I've taken the piss out of #blessed people on Instagram enough - but it is possible to record things without being a complete sap about it.

NaoB

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#8959 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 12:21:28 pm
I know what you are saying Jack. It's unbalanced to have reports of ascents by folk who have a media crew / entourage, whilst the dark horses fly under the radar. So keep us posted! You've got good contacts with the quiet operators and we like hearing about them.

Duma

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#8960 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 12:25:30 pm
Thanks Dave, beautiful bit of rock. Lady Grey looks fucking  great and a bit more achievable for the likes of me too! Hopefully I'll get the chance to pass by one day.

Edit, and well done on the half K! Be catching up with P-Rob soon!
« Last Edit: May 26, 2020, 12:31:26 pm by Duma »

monkey boy

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#8961 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 12:34:49 pm
Thanks Dave, beautiful bit of rock. Lady Grey looks fucking  great and a bit more achievable for the likes of me too! Hopefully I'll get the chance to pass by one day.

Edit, and well done on the half K! Be catching up with P-Rob soon!

Yeah it's a great looking venue. So many good problems up that way that don't get the attention they deserve in my opinion.

Haha thanks! I'll keep on trucking!

Duncan campbell

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#8962 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 01:08:28 pm
Defo keep posting stuff you hear about Jack! But tbh I would rarely make any comment on things unless it was particularly waddage or I felt I had something to add (rare)

Remember when I was working for the other, more evil channel I would use this thread a lot to find out about things as UKBers are well connected.

Also remember dark horses complaining that there stuff didnít get recognised but I never heard from them/it was hard getting anything out of them if I did get wind of anything.  :worms:

Ace that Aiden did Shallow groove, and obvs anything Varian does is cool as fuck.

Also well done Dave - who do we think has done the most 8s? Varian and Ned for the U.K.? Or are you pipping them Dave?

Duma

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#8963 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 01:18:06 pm
Off topic, but just been back to read the other blogs re Bombadil and thought I'd link them as I really do think it's lovely writing
Part 1
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christinbury-part-1-article/
Part 2
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-2-article/
Part 3 (that Dave linked earlier)
https://www.scarpa.co.uk/blog/christianbury-part-3-article/

"the devil makes work for idle hangs" indeed!

monkey boy

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#8964 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 01:25:43 pm
Defo keep posting stuff you hear about Jack! But tbh I would rarely make any comment on things unless it was particularly waddage or I felt I had something to add (rare)

Remember when I was working for the other, more evil channel I would use this thread a lot to find out about things as UKBers are well connected.

Also remember dark horses complaining that there stuff didnít get recognised but I never heard from them/it was hard getting anything out of them if I did get wind of anything.  :worms:

Ace that Aiden did Shallow groove, and obvs anything Varian does is cool as fuck.

Also well done Dave - who do we think has done the most 8s? Varian and Ned for the U.K.? Or are you pipping them Dave?

I'm not sure Duncan. Mike Adams will have done a lot and I imagine Turner isn't too far off either.

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#8965 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 01:36:24 pm
I hope Jack isn't bemoaning the lack of sig rep reporting in this thread, and then disappearing off it and not posting any more sig reps???

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SA Chris

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#8967 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 02:02:52 pm
Bleedin' bivvy ledge! :)

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#8968 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 02:06:49 pm
FFS beaten to it!

Alex-the-Alex

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#8969 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 02:08:46 pm
Dan uses an electric bike to get up there.

Visionary. Thats the way forward for far out bouldering. After the last few months even more so. And up here you'd save a shit tonne on the ferries too. If anyone knows any ebike companies that need ambassadors hit me up.

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#8970 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 02:34:51 pm
Iím no detective but whatís the bet that the 8B+ that took Ned one go and the one that took him several seasons ainít the same grade?

sherlock

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#8971 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 03:05:05 pm
Dan uses an electric bike to get up there.

Visionary. Thats the way forward for far out bouldering. After the last few months even more so. And up here you'd save a shit tonne on the ferries
An electric bike that goes on water? Surely that's asking for trouble?

carlisle slapper

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#8972 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 03:10:23 pm
Jack your sleuthing is top level, keep it up.

You missed a few on your info bomb though!

Rob Hunters repeat of Blondie after 4 years of on and off attempts (it was his proj before i messed with the landing) Is a real stand out event from last year for me, a proper good effort. Rob is 43 but is still operating at the top level. Blondie is a good step up from lines like Glenn Ross. https://www.instagram.com/p/B7y75F2punt/

Michael Duffy also completed his long term Lough Tay project. Giving Ireland its first 8C https://www.instagram.com/p/B9b9HBPDmRU/
Rickys got footage of it i think so something will surface at some point.

Same goes for Ned, i think most of his stand out ascents are on Nicks Camera somewhere. Sometimes its better to do a good job of putting the story together than throwing it all on the Media pile too fast.

There's been a lot of good points on here. The climate definitely discourages hyping things myself nowadays as its all just washed away in 24hours. I'm lucky enough to not need to as are most of the other people who just get out and get on with things and really thats where the main difference comes from. Because to actually make something stick in public consciousness is an unenviable task of repeat trumpeting. Literally the only reason i wrote the blogs for scarpa is because i hadnt written anything in 5 years and i knew that project was it. I really dont think i'll find another line like that in the UK ever, even in Scotland. And whilst it made Cheetham gag with the bile of soulless hype i can only apologise. I wont do it often i promise, luckily i just don't have the time to explain, nor do i have a "line" to explain as its really quite hard finding them. There are maybe one or two exceptions to this if i ever manage them.

Bouldering also appears to be reaching a saturation point whereby there are just so many hard problems and lines in all areas IMO it needs to just move to more of a surf related mindset of people just getting out there and enjoying the quality and movement aspects of hard climbing. The prospects of comprehensive ticking everything in all areas now is pretty unlikely and for the vast majority of boulderers there's more out there than they could ever hope to climb. Which for the UK is a pretty cool thought but also it does change front end development a bit for people like myself as the kudos of having things repeated or going back and forth on FA's and repeats like you see in hotspots like rocklands or font just doesnt happen in the UK at the moment. So it becomes mroe self centered and less about sharing. I was climbing with Collignon last summer just before i did bombadil and showed him the pics and i was chuffed to see he thought it looked great, i could also explain the moves through similar problems in font. To me conversations like that mean a lot, far more than a grade. Him and Lebreton have done so much to keep inspiring lines cropping up in font in recent years, essentially peer review for developer nerds.

I try and add most of my ascents to UKC but actually theres a bunch not on there since family time crept in. For example i havent been arsed about adding new crags/ finding out how to. So many lines like Tiperary and rocking spectre arent on there. But i do try and make sure either flickr or UKC has something as essentially it undermines the point of writing up the sport if i dont and i'd be hypocritical to use any guidebook if i did that. I always try and liase properly with guidebook writers too.

Re shallowgroove i think it's incredibly important to stress that this is the second ascent of Ryans direct. The line John describes in his interview should get written up as a seperate finish after the first move. If vitruvian man has a RH and LH version so should this. Even more so because the RH line has a proven track record of attempts, fails doing moves etc but the LH line only emerged in johns interview and is something entirely different... If Ryans line was easy someone else would've done it in the last 17years. Aidan is super well suited to crimping utter crap whilst standing on a ledge (as is Ryan). Its one of the weirdest hard problems in the world IMO. Literally no extra kudos for a trainers ascent.
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#8973 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 03:20:23 pm
Great discussion. Good effort to all who have done hard shit and those who have posted on the thread.

This thread is a nice mixture between cool stuff and groundbreaking stuff. Context is everything surely and for people like me who pathologically refuse to get instagram its a good place to read about it without the bollocks that it comes with on Insta. Keep posting all!

SA Chris

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#8974 Re: significant repeats
May 26, 2020, 03:23:29 pm

Visionary. Thats the way forward for far out bouldering. After the last few months even more so. And up here you'd save a shit tonne on the ferries too. If anyone knows any ebike companies that need ambassadors hit me up.

What you talking about, Lewis?

 

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