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significant repeats (Read 2419502 times)

kingholmesy

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#8875 Re: significant repeats
May 19, 2020, 11:16:39 pm
Wow. Be really interested to see more details on this one come out.

I doubt there will be any!  Wojciech is a mere non-sponsored local.  Iím not even sure he would want me mentioning it on here, but I thought it was significant.  The only other thing he said to me when working it was that some of Mark Edwardsí glued holds had broken.

kingholmesy

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#8876 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 10:04:10 am
That's interesting.  My understanding has always been that Rewind takes the line of what had been called Blue Sky Lightening and originally given 8a.  This is also suggested by Mark's FB page here: https://www.facebook.com/compasswestclimbing/posts/worlds-first-claimed-e10-and-still-unrepeated-carn-vellan-cornwall-rewind-e10-45/803551763004476/

Note he says: "Within a short time, Blue Sky Lightning was re-climbed and re-established as a full trad route, and given the new grade of E10".

As you say, I think it was either Nuts Are Not The Only Fruit (originally given 8b) or Monster Munch (originally given 8b+) that Mark later claimed could be 8c+/9a.

I caught up with Wojciech via messenger last night and his only other comments on Rewind were: that it is a bit scary at the start up to a rest before the crux, but that there is then good gear from there to the top; that it is quite hard to get good conditions at Carn Vellan; and that it would be good if someone else repeated it and gave their thoughts on the grade - personally I think this would be more likely if it wasn't for Mark Edwards' reputation and the fact that it is way down in Cornwall.
« Last Edit: May 20, 2020, 10:17:23 am by kingholmesy »

Alex-the-Alex

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#8877 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 10:40:02 am
This is the coolest thing ive read on here for ages. What a legend. This is probably covered elsewhere but are Nuts and Monster Munch at all climbable with the bolts cut?

If I was climbing anywhere near that level I think the Edwards legacy would be a turn on rather than a put off. As much as anything to see how much was ego and how much was true. Either way its a great addition to a fascinating chapter of uk climbing. Nice one Wojciech


abarro81

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#8878 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 10:53:33 am
If you include your Facebook sources (also Mark Edwards), Rewind is somewhere between 8a/b and 8c+/9a

Always thought we needed the slash grade 8/9a  :lol:

Motown

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#8879 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 11:01:06 am
If I was climbing anywhere near that level I think the Edwards legacy would be a turn on rather than a put off. As much as anything to see how much was ego and how much was true. Either way its a great addition to a fascinating chapter of uk climbing. Nice one Wojciech
[/quote]

 :agree:

Although he probably left a bunch of physical and emotional damage, I love reading about Edwards’ ascents and potential villainy, and it’s great when that is explored further and hopefully proved/disproved.

And rope soloed... Wow! From those in the know, is that any more sketchy than a standard effort? (‘Standard’ as in pretty amazing)

Fiend

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#8880 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 12:34:13 pm
As much as repeating / FA-ing Medwards routes is always a jolly wheeze, isn't there a lot of talk at the moment (including from MRTs) about sticking to low-risk, low-key climbing as part of a careful approach to the new "unlimited travel for exercise" lockdown-easing?? I personally don't give a shit either way but I can't imagine "Coastguard Rescues Multiple-Injured Lone Climber From Cornish Coast" on the front of the Truro Weekly Gazette looking particularly beneficial for future approaches and access to climbing??

kingholmesy

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#8881 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 02:07:36 pm
@Fiend - Wojciech rope solos a lot as he works shifts and can't always get partners.  He had also worked this route a lot, including falling off on lead more than once without injury before his successful ascent.  I therefore don't think this was particularly dangerous.  As such I think this ascent was permissible in the current circumstances - unless you take the view that no-one should be climbing any trad routes at all.  :shrug:

Anyway there's enough threads at the moment about these sorts of issues, so let's save this one for mention of significant ascents rather than re-running the debate here.

SA Chris

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#8882 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 02:10:57 pm
What a legend.

Sorry, does this refer to Mark Edwards, or Wojciech?

kingholmesy

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#8883 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 02:13:46 pm
@Alex-the-Alex - Rewind follows a crack-line.  From what I know, Nuts and Monster Munch do not and I think it is much less likely they would go on natural gear.  Worth bearing in mind too that it is a massively overhanging lump of rock!

teestub

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#8884 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 02:18:58 pm
Donít suppose Wojciech got a passing fishing boat to film him?  ;D

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#8885 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 02:47:45 pm
Donít suppose Wojciech got a passing fishing boat to film him?  ;D

Spanish trawler ?

Alex-the-Alex

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#8886 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 03:34:14 pm
What a legend.

Sorry, does this refer to Mark Edwards, or Wojciech?

Wojciech. Legend as in "Did you hear what Woj did last night? Ledge."

@Alex-the-Alex - Rewind follows a crack-line.  From what I know, Nuts and Monster Munch do not and I think it is much less likely they would go on natural gear.  Worth bearing in mind too that it is a massively overhanging lump of rock!

Cheers Il get down for a look one day  :thumbsup:

SA Chris

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#8887 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 03:52:58 pm
Yeah, i know the term, i just though you were saying ME was a legend.

sherlock

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#8888 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 04:42:01 pm
Yeah, i know the term, i just though you were saying ME was a legend.

I understand that some folk believe a couple of his routes are legendary. As in unicorns..... :worms:
« Last Edit: May 20, 2020, 04:51:13 pm by sherlock »

SA Chris

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#8889 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 04:49:48 pm
Most folk..

petejh

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#8890 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 05:20:43 pm
Lead rope soloing is a bit faffy in my limited experience but Iíve never done it enough to have a slick system. Itís also physically harder as you have more rope hanging off you than when normal leading. Good effort lead soloing on an overhanging 8a+ trad route!
Bit of an obvious one for a repeat.. surprised no one else has put in the effort when you consider English and Wales-based wads have travelled to the Mournes, Fairhead and various Scottish crags to repeat hard stuff (and Dave MAC travelling to do Walk of life).  Cornwallís not that far!

Fiend

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#8891 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 06:28:07 pm
Kingholmsey - I haven't been following any other threads sorry. Maybe people who care about this sort of thing can continue it there. It just occured to me that's all - as much about the perception of it rather than the actual risk. I'm actually far more interested in the usual Medwards hullaballoo  :2thumbsup:

Duncan campbell

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#8892 Re: significant repeats
May 20, 2020, 07:24:21 pm
This is the coolest thing ive read on here for ages. What a legend. This is probably covered elsewhere but are Nuts and Monster Munch at all climbable with the bolts cut?


If I remember correctly what he said, I think Luke Dawson and his brother Pete have done Monster Munch? Think Luke said some of the bolts were still clippable and maybe you had to put a couple of wires in at the top? Said it was pretty soft for the grade.

jstrongman

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#8893 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 09:34:52 am
Bit of an obvious one for a repeat.. surprised no one else has put in the effort when you consider English and Wales-based wads have travelled to the Mournes, Fairhead and various Scottish crags to repeat hard stuff (and Dave MAC travelling to do Walk of life).  Cornwallís not that far!

With potentially more UK based holidays this summer, might not be too long before it and the surrounding routes see some more attention. 

shark

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#8894 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 10:43:48 am

Wojciech. Legend as in "Did you hear what Woj did last night? Ledge."

Ah. So thatís how you pronounce his name.

SA Chris

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#8895 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 11:04:20 am
Glad he never climbs with Mina.


Alex-the-Alex

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#8896 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 11:22:29 am

Wojciech. Legend as in "Did you hear what Woj did last night? Ledge."

Ah. So thatís how you pronounce his name.

No. Woj is short for Wojer, as in Wojer Wabbit. It was more of an example.

That's good goss Duncan. Cheers.

kingholmesy

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#8897 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 11:47:38 am

Quote
Ah. So thatís how you pronounce his name.

It's pronounced Voy-teck.  The local training wall he has built is called Vortex as a play on this.

Wojciech is usually shortened to Woj when written (by me at least), cos frankly who can remember how to spell Polish names.

shark

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#8898 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 12:26:22 pm
Welease Wojer


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#8899 Re: significant repeats
May 21, 2020, 03:23:47 pm

 

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