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significant repeats (Read 2501606 times)

cofe

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#225 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 02:57:21 pm
true indeed. they're within 4/5 grades of what he's capable of climbing. crazy.

RASTATA

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#226 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 03:11:33 pm
when 8B's not that hard anymore and 8A is approaching a rest. ...

 :o

nik at work

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#227 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 03:53:32 pm
That is awesome, he pisses them.

Just wondering, isn't Fata bas a bit silly? I thought it had been kind of ignored in favour of the assis, have I got this wrong? Doesn't the assis also get 8B?

Beasty.

Jaspersharpe

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#228 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 04:22:24 pm
We never got to the bas assis bottom of it on the other thread. In 7+8 only the stand and the sit are listed at 8A and 8B.

Tyler said 8A+ for this on his blog.  :shrug:

Johnny Brown

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#229 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 04:34:46 pm
Quote
ty doing

t-rex assis, conviction (flash), fata morgana bas

Does that put Dense's forest 8a tick firmly to bed then? You win some you lose some...

nik at work

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#230 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 04:51:18 pm
Also isn't Conviction a sit start?

benpritch

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#231 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 05:15:45 pm
i didn't mean to start any controversy, i used guide book/bleau.info grades. problems are all as described. conviction could have a sit but it hasn't been done.
fata bas is weird but it is aproblem and it does start there. tyler thought it was only 8a+ but i didn't want to down  rate it personally as i don't know what grade it is so i used guide/bleau .info.

hope that clears it up

benpritch

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#232 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 05:20:41 pm
ps - press the hd button and watch it in glorious hi def rather than musho vision

monkey boy

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#233 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 06:00:13 pm
Its actually the sit to fata morgana that doesnt really get done, the bas is repeated more frequently and i think consensus is 8a+!

Tyler is climbing in another level at the moment, watching him in font was sweet, he dances his way up some hard stuff!

Keep it up

nik at work

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#234 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 06:09:24 pm
conviction could have a sit but it hasn't been done.
Oh, OK. It is described as a sit start in the 7+8's guide (and on bleau.info I think).

Johnny Brown

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#235 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 06:52:30 pm
It may not be sitting but Ty's start is a big move lower than Dense's; he blames Keith. Tippex?

Still he's got my pants down with Berezina, best get deadhanging.

benpritch

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#236 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 07:33:58 pm

butters

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#237 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 08:14:08 pm
http://www.mattwilderclimbing.blogspot.com/

pretty good day out!!!!

And after all those big V Grades numbers he still only got second place!! :jaw:

bluebrad

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#238 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 10:20:16 pm
And another vintage Landman day  ::)

Big Dragon - 8a+ - Ten Minutes
Synapses- 8a - Flash
Elephunk - 8b

SA Chris

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#239 Re: significant repeats
March 03, 2009, 10:28:59 pm
Holy crap. he makes those routes look like strolls.

Doylo

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#240 Re: significant repeats
March 04, 2009, 09:42:46 am
conviction is wrongly described as a sitter but does start low on obvious good holds.dense did the last move cos keith told him thats where it started.always the bridesmaid never the bride!

nik at work

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#241 Re: significant repeats
March 04, 2009, 10:27:54 am
A-ha cheers for that info. Looking back at the video it does look as though a mega tallie could be sat back on the mats and pull on where Tyler does I suppose. A true sitter does look possible also.
Anyway thanks for clearing that up.

a dense loner

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#242 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2009, 10:11:55 am
the other obvious reason for my starting conviction there, apart from what's been said, on bleau it shows photo's of the first ascentionist on the problem. if you look at this then factor in that the problem got 7c+/8a, which from them holds it certainly feels like. now factor in that starting low, ie where tyler starts, you go rh lh rh to top. the 1st ascent must have gone rh lh rh to shocking hold on same level rh again to top. in other words for that sequence he does basically two moves of the same 7c+/8a grade to cover the same bit of ground you can do in one. obviously i have renounced this as my 1st 8a in font, which i never felt too comfortable with anyway because of shit guide description, lack of knowledge, the fact that it says sit start when you just can't etc, and the fact that i would like my first one to be obvious and classic.
doylo christened it conviction part deux. which i still find very amusing. anyone who thinks this is a cop-out, which it is, should go and do it. for all its sins you know you've just had to pull really very hard. don't let the casualness of tyler fool you, he has admitted to being on another level ;)

Jaspersharpe

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#243 Re: significant repeats
March 05, 2009, 10:19:28 am


 :-\

Jaspersharpe

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Percy B

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#245 Re: significant repeats
March 17, 2009, 10:34:20 am
That's it then - proof that Ty is a true all-round bouldering master. There are a lot of font 8b+ climbers who can only dream of climbing Duel - I think Jacky Godoffe is one of them! Nice work, junior! :thumbsup:

Adam Lincoln

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#246 Re: significant repeats
March 27, 2009, 06:13:09 pm
Bernd Zangerl has repeated Dave Grahams "From Dirt Grows The Flowers" 8c, in Swis.

r-man

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#247 Re: significant repeats
March 27, 2009, 06:30:24 pm
Bernd Zangerl has repeated Dave Grahams "From Dirt Grows The Flowers" 8c, in Swis.


Ru

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#248 Re: significant repeats
March 27, 2009, 08:08:40 pm
He was all over it last week when we were there, but conditions weren't good. I was well impressed.

Jaspersharpe

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#249 Re: significant repeats
March 27, 2009, 08:52:19 pm
Rockin the three stripes once again. Respect to the Dimitar Berbatov lookalike BEAST.

 

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