the other obvious reason for my starting conviction there, apart from what's been said, on bleau it shows photo's of the first ascentionist on the problem. if you look at this then factor in that the problem got 7c+/8a, which from them holds it certainly feels like. now factor in that starting low, ie where tyler starts, you go rh lh rh to top. the 1st ascent must have gone rh lh rh to shocking hold on same level rh again to top. in other words for that sequence he does basically two moves of the same 7c+/8a grade to cover the same bit of ground you can do in one. obviously i have renounced this as my 1st 8a in font, which i never felt too comfortable with anyway because of shit guide description, lack of knowledge, the fact that it says sit start when you just can't etc, and the fact that i would like my first one to be obvious and classic.
doylo christened it conviction part deux. which i still find very amusing. anyone who thinks this is a cop-out, which it is, should go and do it. for all its sins you know you've just had to pull really very hard. don't let the casualness of tyler fool you, he has admitted to being on another level