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significant repeats (Read 2500925 times)

Adam Lincoln

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#125 Re: significant repeats
January 23, 2009, 02:08:23 pm
Also, it looks as though Dave Cowl has made the first repeat of The Real Keel Haul. 8b'ish.

dave

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#126 Re: significant repeats
January 23, 2009, 02:08:48 pm
mick adams did rec violence (or a variation thereon, depending how you look at it) in the summer.

r-man

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#127 Re: significant repeats
January 23, 2009, 02:25:23 pm
Quite a few people have done a left hand line, which seems to be regarded as 8a. It's a very different set of moves. I talked to Mick in september I think, and he said he had been trying the original version, but didn't quite get it.

...Though thinking about it, he did also say something about throwing for a lower sloper to the right - I wasn't quite sure what he meant, and I got the impression he hadn't done this either, but I might have misunderstood...  :shrug:

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#128 Re: significant repeats
January 23, 2009, 02:36:40 pm
i'm not on about the LH version. whenever it was I did neil's sitter (according to 8a.nu this was 18th june - see, they are useful) i watched him do it getting the rec viol crimp with lh and making a very long span to the poor hold just shy of the groove on the right, then making a nails looking windmill slap to holds above. its almost like a RH variant, looked about the same grade. i like to think it was the psyche of seeing me crush NW sitter like it was a warmup gave him the psyche to get through it.

Doylo

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#129 Re: significant repeats
January 23, 2009, 02:42:48 pm
Is that stuff good or what? Will have to check it (one time)

Jaspersharpe

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#130 Re: significant repeats
January 23, 2009, 02:46:08 pm
Neil's Wall's top quality. When I went the LH end of the crag was soaked and the RH (Neil's Wall) was baking in the sun but it all seemed good.

r-man

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#131 Re: significant repeats
January 23, 2009, 02:46:43 pm
i'm not on about the LH version. whenever it was I did neil's sitter (according to 8a.nu this was 18th june - see, they are useful) i watched him do it getting the rec viol crimp with lh and making a very long span to the poor hold just shy of the groove on the right, then making a nails looking windmill slap to holds above. its almost like a RH variant, looked about the same grade. i like to think it was the psyche of seeing me crush NW sitter like it was a warmup gave him the psyche to get through it.

Ah, that's what he was on about then. He did say he thought it was 8a+ that way. Nice one Mick! And of course, Dave, because he wouldn't have done it without you.

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#132 Re: significant repeats
January 23, 2009, 02:48:55 pm
exactly.

nathan wind

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#133 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2009, 01:29:38 pm
Also, it looks as though Dave Cowl has made the first repeat of The Real Keel Haul. 8b'ish.

Dave did this on thursday... fine effort!

andy_e

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#134 Re: significant repeats
January 24, 2009, 07:38:05 pm
Effort to the Cowl  :bow:

PATRuL

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#135 Re: significant repeats
January 25, 2009, 01:25:34 am
Huffin an puFFin
When grade becomes no graDe
The mind thaT created this is none other than the sleeping realization
Of what?
I did nothing and nothing is other than good if you want it to be
THe relationship with the rok is pure and none other than that and how it is and how it is very clear
Clarity comes in waves
And we lose our selves in failure
LeaRninG from our Awareness and our relationship with the stone we are reflected back in a senSe of awareness
I Am over it
Who is tiring WHo?
I am tired by the shilly shallyings of houSe wiNe
WHin`~`g
Kerfufles
I aM
WhAt?
May as well be tossin off to the NeWs of Al GoRes ereCt dictatum on the FallacY of climbing DriVeL
LosinG Sense in Oblivion mAKEs so muCh sense when offset to watChing EastenDeRrrrr

...and thus i am told get a life
///it goes on.

slackline

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#136 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 11:45:22 am
Noticed a news report on UKC that Dave Barrans On-Sighted Little Women (E7 7a) @ Apparent North:bow:

Witnessed by at least Jordan Buys.

r-man

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#137 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 03:33:55 pm
That is impressive. An onsight of a safe and nails hard route. Font 7b+! Contender for hardest moves ever done on a trad onsight? (I'm completely ignorant, so shoot me down if I'm way out).

What safe, hard E8's are out there, waiting for climbers like Dave?

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#138 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 03:39:30 pm

What safe, hard E8's are out there, waiting for climbers like Dave?

Make a list.

r-man

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#139 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 03:49:10 pm
Make a list.

Here.



Oh wait, I misheard.

Graeme78

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#140 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 04:14:35 pm
Is captain invincible still classed as hard and safe? Can't remember if they were hand placed pegs. (not that I've ever been on the route, just what could have been said)

galpinos

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#141 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 04:19:31 pm
Noticed a news report on UKC that Dave Barrans On-Sighted Little Women (E7 7a) @ Apparent North.  :bow:

Witnessed by at least Jordan Buys.

Good to see the UKC thread has gone straight into a grade debate.

Pretty impressive stuff (the onsight, not UKC).

TomP

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#142 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 04:41:56 pm
Also, it looks as though Dave Cowl has made the first repeat of The Real Keel Haul. 8b'ish.

Yeah, good work Dave, you deserve it! :great:

T_B

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#143 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 05:02:29 pm
I can't think of a harder on-sight on grit than Little Women?

As to the UKC thread. It's not debating whether the route has been given some over-inflated grade or not, simply how technically difficult it is compared to other grit E7s that have been on-sighted. That's worth trying to highlight I reckon.  Dave's on-sight of Little Women is very different to an on-sight of Kaluza Klein or Deathwatch.

Doylo

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#144 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 07:56:00 pm
pascal flashed gaia on saturday!

slackline

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#145 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 08:08:08 pm
pascal flashed gaia on saturday!

He's certainly on form this season, interesting to see what else he gets done  :bow:

andy_e

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#146 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 08:09:08 pm
that homme's on fire

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#147 Re: significant repeats
January 26, 2009, 10:32:55 pm
pascal flashed gaia on saturday!


Beast!!

Good effort!
 
:thumbsup:


Andy F

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#148 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2009, 02:59:37 pm
Is captain invincible still classed as hard and safe? Can't remember if they were hand placed pegs. (not that I've ever been on the route, just what could have been said)

Invincible has F8b climbing on it, the dangerous bit is by the pegs with the natural gear being safer if I remember my old OTE correctly.

benpritch

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#149 Re: significant repeats
January 27, 2009, 03:22:07 pm
Is captain invincible still classed as hard and safe? Can't remember if they were hand placed pegs. (not that I've ever been on the route, just what could have been said)

Invincible has F8b climbing on it, the dangerous bit is by the pegs with the natural gear being safer if I remember my old OTE correctly.

from my recollection of trying this on a top rope the lower arete is both hard and bold with an unpleasant landing. above this the climbing gets harder but is protected by 20 year old? pegs. probably rubbish by now. not sure how this was classed as safe as IMHO the lower arete would probably be a bold e6/7 in it's own right unless i was having a trully terrible day and missed something obvious? anybody else?

 

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