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significant repeats (Read 2473319 times)

PATRuL

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#100 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2008, 08:50:14 pm
We love you Stevie
 :kiss2:

Fiend

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#101 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2008, 11:13:42 pm
I'm just trying to widen the debate and draw on my experience of life.
I respect your need to look after your energy dude.
I often wonder if my creative urges maybe more fulfilling in other formats, but i enjoy trying to broaden peoples understanding of what it is to climb.
We are not all uberwads, but our enjoyment is personal, only others try and debase it.
There's enough of that in the world already.
When i first came to climbing i really enjoyed being in nature and meeting lots of like minded climbers.
Having been sucked into the headlights of haarder/faster/bigger bollocks mentality, i now see the error of this way.
Its media led greed, build some up, knock a whole bunch of others down - great?
Well done.
We get enough of that at school and our nurturance.
WHat we need amidst the increasing craziness of modern life is a more deeper realization of how we are all connected.
Climbing and climbers used to offer me that.
The cold stares of other punters, infamous or whatever, i recieve at some crags is a mystery (or is it).
I don't need this when I go to OUR places of worship (or hadn't you realised?)
Just because D,E or F did such and such a route doesn't mean he (its usually a man) alone created it.
Nor does regular attendence at some gym or other mean you own it.
A friendly welcome goes a long way.
Recreational rock bimbling scratches the surface of a fairly insignificant itch, in the grand scheme of things.
We must change our attitudes or be changed by our blind destruction.
Where is our reverence for nature?
Ever felt the gratitude of being alive?
THanked the rock?
I hope so.

Why the fuck couldn't you have just said that in the first place instead of wasting your previous 103 posts??

P.S. I think stevie has been right to question stuff, the "are standards shit" thread has been a very worthy issue to be explored, whatever the answer is.

Plattsy

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#102 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 08:30:01 am
And as for PATRul I think he, as much as you, is one of the things that makes UKB really good.

Hear hear!

Jaspersharpe

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#103 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 08:50:43 am
This forum could be brill but you scare off many people who could help, a moderater would help of course and a bit of maturity. Stevie.

The best sign of maturity is the ability to laugh at oneself. You're perfectly prepared to dish it out stevie but when the glove is on the other fist you take your ball (or should that be bat?) home. I think it would be a shame if you stopped posting on here as some of the points you've raised have created interesting discussions, you have a wealth of knowledge to impart and you make the forum a more interesting place. We all take the piss out of each other, just don't be so fucking touchy.

 :-*

n_man

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#104 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 10:36:36 am
Stevie: Many people are scared off.... British Standards are shit....Brits are shit...... :-\

Bonjoy

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#105 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 01:10:06 pm
I'm just trying to widen the debate and draw on my experience of life.
I respect your need to look after your energy dude.
I often wonder if my creative urges maybe more fulfilling in other formats, but i enjoy trying to broaden peoples understanding of what it is to climb.
We are not all uberwads, but our enjoyment is personal, only others try and debase it.
There's enough of that in the world already.
When i first came to climbing i really enjoyed being in nature and meeting lots of like minded climbers.
Having been sucked into the headlights of haarder/faster/bigger bollocks mentality, i now see the error of this way.
Its media led greed, build some up, knock a whole bunch of others down - great?
Well done.
We get enough of that at school and our nurturance.
WHat we need amidst the increasing craziness of modern life is a more deeper realization of how we are all connected.
Climbing and climbers used to offer me that.
The cold stares of other punters, infamous or whatever, i recieve at some crags is a mystery (or is it).
I don't need this when I go to OUR places of worship (or hadn't you realised?)
Just because D,E or F did such and such a route doesn't mean he (its usually a man) alone created it.
Nor does regular attendence at some gym or other mean you own it.
A friendly welcome goes a long way.
Recreational rock bimbling scratches the surface of a fairly insignificant itch, in the grand scheme of things.
We must change our attitudes or be changed by our blind destruction.
Where is our reverence for nature?
Ever felt the gratitude of being alive?
THanked the rock?
I hope so.
Peas are ace.

I see what you're saying, but I think it's in part based on a false perception. You can't assume that your personal experience of intense climbing as a Sheffield resident is the same as other people's. For sure there is an amount of negativity within any group. There are good people and fools among any group. There will always be a mix of people doing things for the right and wrong motives. There is a degree of skill required for a person to take the best from a situation and not be adversely affected by the worst. Plenty of climbers try hard, even enjoy a degree of competativity without this becoming a corrupting force in their life. It's a game we all play in our own way, for some people it works and for others it doesn't. I think your view of climbing is over simplistic. Do you get more or less out of your time climbing since you stopped trying hard? I'd wager that you had the best moments as a climber during the time you were climbing at your hardest. Regardless of the motivations which got you there it's the joy of efficient motion on rock which will stay as the treasured memory.

monkey boy

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#106 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 01:11:33 pm
Just heard that Mike Adams has repeated super bloc this morning!

Absolute legend, nice one mike!!

Bonjoy

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#107 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 01:16:20 pm
Nice. That guy is crushmatic. Is there anything not in his satchel?!

dave

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#108 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 01:25:23 pm
another face to carve into Mount Crushmore. I'll get my chisel.

Jaspersharpe

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#109 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 01:29:29 pm
 :bow: Again!

monkey boy

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#110 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 01:51:09 pm
No he really is a legend of English bouldering!!

He has even done the ace :whistle:

cofe

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#111 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 01:53:42 pm
hats off to mick. proper local hero. he doesn't shy away from the king lines either.

north_country_boy

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#112 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 01:58:51 pm
Bon Effort!

Pantontino

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#113 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 02:37:39 pm
Well done to yer man Mick and a vote from me that Stevie sticks around. I think it is healthy to have somebody bring a different perspective to the debating table, and you have certainly done that of late.

Patrul (aside from the attention seeking shenanigans) is only really irritating because he is painting a very cliche laden/black and white (and clearly untrue) picture of how things work in the modern climbing scene. Like Bonjoy said.

Paul B

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#114 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 04:50:24 pm
hats off to mick. proper local hero. he doesn't shy away from the king lines either.

you should be shot for using that expression.

Mick really is a Wad of Wads, nice one.

fashionguru

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#115 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 06:01:18 pm
Just thought I'd post on the Mike ascent of SB.

He actually did it 3 times and was static no wild dyno for the top(ish) hold.  (he did it 3 times because obvious 1st time but then wanted video which i did for him on my phone but fuc*** up saving it so he did it once more with me using his phone instead. Im sure he will load the vid soon)

Also of note on the repeat front from Mike was the 2nd (if im right) ascent of a problem at Gardoms South (dont know the correct name but goes something like this) "the sausage king of mersebrook" Fb 8a is more like the grade not 7c.

We also both did 3 problems (may not be new but well worth while) at Moorside.

1. Taking the left arete of the SB block (do not jam the lower left crack) to gain the rail at half height, follow this into the middle of the wall and then rock up into the crack and onto the top.
Nice prob at around 7b (V8) not dissimilar in difficulty to Savito.

2 The block to the left of this has 2 (right and left) aretes climb them both as you wish to a rounded and sandy topout. Both go at about Fb 6c but were very dirty so will prob be slightly easier if the get
traffic.

Moorside has more to offer if you can be bothered to look and clean up and makes a visit here and G S worth a day trip.


Last but not least

Great effort Mike was fab to watch.

Tony Simpson

Johnny Brown

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#116 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 06:12:22 pm
Quote
1. Taking the left arete of the SB block (do not jam the lower left crack) to gain the rail at half height, follow this into the middle of the wall and then rock up into the crack and onto the top.
Nice prob at around 7b (V8) not dissimilar in difficulty to Savito.

Is this not Charlotte Dumpling, E4 5c (1986)?

PATRuL

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#117 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 06:56:11 pm
Thought.
Knock, knock, tap, tap.
It is not real it is not solid, until I identify with it, place some 'truth' in it.
And so my head begins to swell with THOUGHT.

Ask your self something.
What is happening?
Label your experiences yourself.
Who is to say E1 is E1?
What is normal.

Black and white thinking could make me a Newcastle fan, i prefered them when the blue star was ShiNinG.
Sour grapes and bitter seeds ... i prefered climbing when it was some kind of Pantinomime.

Jibe, i'm learning more about myself and my climbing knowledge of self grows, I would be pretty unhappy if it was stagnant.  What does make me a little twitchy is my infrequency of attendance.  In fact the FatContoller said if i don't pull my finger out i may remain grounded.  So i'm quite happy not pulling my finger out, and trying (or not) to relax more.  Yes, you are possibly right in saying the push push attitude does not suit me - punters for racecourses indeed.  I do enjoy a bit of fitness and this makes it fun, but accepting where i am at gives me more long term satisfaction.  The craving for more will never be satisfied, not beyond this moment.  What really gets my goat though is the mindless behaviour of a minority who trash other peoples fun or sense of self and nature to boot!
Not that i've never been naughty of course.  But what ii'm trying to stress in my own inimitable way (thank you) is that our community responsibilities must go beyond the bugged out craving for more.
I think Stu Littlefair fired out a pretty accurate statement when he said "the peak is like the climbing equivalent of MacDOnalds."
Lets pray and take action that it does not come to that.

 :beer2:


Stu Littlefair

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#118 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 07:33:04 pm
Mmmm. McDonalds.

Falling Down

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#119 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 09:14:47 pm
Listen,some of you are bored of the debate- well dont take part. If you dont give a toss stay off. We thought things would sort themselves out along time ago, they didnt.

I'm not bored. I just work most of the time so don't have time to post.  Don't spit the dummy.. there's f*ck all moderation on here and that's a good thing. Welcome to the internet. It's very different to having a regular column in the mags like in the 90's .. people have opinions here and can express them quickly and without having Neal Pearsons to edit their letters for them.

You're talking a lot of sense just don't be so f*cking precious and taking the hump when people pop your balloons or disagree with you.


Johnny Brown

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#120 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 09:56:41 pm
i can't believe somebody posted about mikes ascents before tony. it's a dark day.
ps sausage king of meersbrook was touted at 7c+ not 7c. seems everybody else decided to give it 7c when they did all the moves except the actual hard one. tongue out smiley.
mick's still a beast

fashionguru

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#121 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 10:01:31 pm
Is this not Charlotte Dumpling, E4 5c (1986)?
[/quote]

Hi JB,

Sorry did not read the guide. You are correct but I would say the start me and Mike did would be different to the one that you would do for CD. As I said do not jam the crack which I would do if I was only to make a 5c move.  If you stay just on the left arete as I said then this gives a bit more of a fight.

Yes it is a little eliminate (well a lot) but makes for a good and worth while problem to do if visiting.

P.s the dyno from the two cut slots to the ledge runnel is still to go and Mike was just short of it.

Tony

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#122 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 10:02:15 pm
shit. that was dense btw. jonathon will kill me. this new broadband has warped my mind

Houdini

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#123 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2008, 10:03:28 pm

r-man

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#124 Re: significant repeats
January 23, 2009, 02:06:18 pm
I see on 8a.nu that Paul Smitton has made the first repeat of Recreational Violence. Good stuff!

 

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