UKBouldering.com

significant repeats (Read 2194122 times)

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5398
  • Karma: +130/-78
#50 Re: significant repeats
December 09, 2008, 01:16:23 pm
I wonder what the proposed grade would have been if there hadn't been all the speculation about the [over] grading?

dave

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 18770
  • Karma: +611/-9
  • Ex-moderator, forced out.
#51 Re: significant repeats
December 09, 2008, 01:29:05 pm
for once, and only once, sloper has as valid point. often when something is perceived as being overgraded then the subsequent regrading is a bit of a rebound in the wrong direction. As a lot of people will probably note, theres a fair bit of this in the peak bouldering guide, like things on limestone that were given 7c previously then got down to 7a+ and lo and behold everyone then considers them nails for the grade. for this reason I would express caution in taking the E7 for promise at this stage, even if it was ground up. bearing in mind el mocho said E7 would be too low, and jack hasn't done it, (although it might seem harsh to say ignore jacks opinion, thats the rule - afterall he could get up tomorrow, do it, and have a change of heart) thats only one person saying E7, the rest saying hard E8 or 9. Theres loads of people who haven't done the route with a grade opinion, non of which are worth anything in the historical record. After more repeats we'll have a better idea.

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5398
  • Karma: +130/-78
#52 Re: significant repeats
December 09, 2008, 01:55:19 pm
Perception is important, last might I was puntering at the works and failed to latch a jug on one of the yellow problems, having cruised it second go I said I thought it was english 5c. 

This wasn't taken seriously until some other punters got on it and thought that was about right, you see they'd looked at a yellow problem and thought that must be hard so hand't really tried.  The same effect can be experienced when you're being sandbagged, you're told it's say font 6a when its font 7a as a result you treat it like a 6a and flash it.

Like it or not all some downgrading is for reasons other than the grade.

PS aren't E grades supposed to be ground up without mats, ladders etc etc etc  JR said that he thought that the promise was physically harder than EOTA; let's noty forget that the physical element plays a part in the E grade.

nodder

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 337
  • Karma: +38/-1
#53 Re: significant repeats
December 09, 2008, 02:51:06 pm
go and argue about it on the other thread about the promise i keep thinking something significant has been repeated, and i am bored.  It was overgraded by how much we will have to wait and see...

a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7210
  • Karma: +388/-28
#54 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2008, 02:51:04 pm
can't believe you're bored in wales nodder, in winter

PATRuL

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 199
  • Karma: +38/-33
#55 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2008, 11:32:09 pm
I'vE Just had a douBle Guiness.

I guesS thatS a repeat, just as significant as anything ElsE.

M3dia led - spoon fed - dRiVel

The CrEation of liFe

WhaT do yoU make uP?

grading NON SeNSe is riFe amongSt climbing account-ability-Ants

WhO is goiNg to SatisFy ouR inTernAl landSCape nOw BeN anD JeRRy huNg Up theiR BooTs?

Ah the joy of a good wander

BOBBY DiGiTaL skips over mind sludge, distracted from sleep, olive oil, media sluts, searching out the illusion of glory to satisfy WhAT/WHo?

Upbring ing is revealed in fancy footw0rk and little do we realise amidst our distraction have perfect every step we form is ...........

Hello YojnoB enjoy TOnF

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1447
  • Karma: +50/-5
#56 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2008, 11:57:49 pm
one too many hits on the crack pipe? useful contributions as ever patty

PATRuL

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 199
  • Karma: +38/-33
#57 Re: significant repeats
December 13, 2008, 08:37:20 am
OnE puLL Up too MANy

Nibile

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7318
  • Karma: +675/-4
  • Part Animal Part Machine
    • TOTOLORE
#58 Re: significant repeats
December 13, 2008, 10:35:50 am
OnE puLL Up too MANy
so you did two pull ups, didn't you?

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 10288
  • Karma: +523/-19
#59 Re: significant repeats
December 13, 2008, 11:08:08 am
Quote
BOBBY DiGiTaL skips over mind sludge, distracted from sleep, olive oil, media sluts, searching out the illusion of glory to satisfy WhAT/WHo?



Glad that Bobby is getting dragged into these grade debates.

tc

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 790
  • Karma: +57/-1
#60 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2008, 05:18:02 pm
However, this being a bouldering forum I think its relevant to point out that the difficulty has been downgraded from 8a to 7b+. That is a massive drop, and as I understand it the sequence has remained the same. If this was one of my boulder problems I would feel a bit of a lemon!

Would you hand back the sponsorship money?

PATRuL

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 199
  • Karma: +38/-33
#61 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2008, 12:30:05 am
Inane boring drivel is yawning on about GrADEs
Why not do some more pulling off,  :oops:, typo, i meant ups
Whatever.
Do two VS's make an HVS?
Do three E9s make an E(x3)27?
I generally find qualitative action leads to greater rewards and consequently more happiness, which is in part what this game is about.  Right?
One banana, two banana, three banana, four.
Creativity lies beyond pulling
There is a certain lightness, to pulling
I find the more i get jerky in my movements the more prone i am to erring.
However, throwing caution to the wind is not so clever
Anyway, sometimes one has to slap
Sometimes there is more need to master the quick step, other times the slow.
Boring drivellous RZActions are most likely born out of boredom with ones own patterns.
THinking, such as 'if i do more i will get more', generally leads to the sort of state we are currently in - GREeD and hyper-inflation of lots of things (such as eGos, the price of shoes and rum).
I'd say we are in a fine mess Stanley if we can not take a step back and really take stock of this situation.

Boring ... i think i'll do a degree in hyper-drivel.
Hum, thats a good idea, i'll post it on UKb

More tea vicar?

account_inactive

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2716
  • Karma: +85/-25
#62 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2008, 12:41:32 am
Looked at this thread again thinking that something of significance had happened.

All I found was this jokers drivel

stevie haston

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 101
  • Karma: +23/-6
#63 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2008, 09:28:30 am
I like jokes but you get a lotta shit, trivial one line, I think I am really funny stuff here. Yes grades are wierd to talk about, and talk about them we must. Yes some repeats are note worthy and some not so, if you dont find them interesting you are not obliged to post. Stevie boring Haston who is fairly interested in a lotta stuff about climbing and can buy comics if he wants to.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3999
  • Karma: +258/-4
#64 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2008, 02:52:51 pm
I think PATRuL speaks to a certain truth

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 23672
  • Karma: +499/-10
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#65 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2008, 03:01:53 pm
I think PATRuL speaks to a certain truth

Yes, especially the 
Quote
One banana, two banana, three banana, four.
bit.

andy popp

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3999
  • Karma: +258/-4
#66 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2008, 03:09:08 pm
Indubitably so.

PATRuL

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 199
  • Karma: +38/-33
#67 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2008, 07:09:21 pm
Inane drivel ... is the continual machismo drive for MOrE
 :wall:
In a new drive ... life can be more each day
 :pissed:



THE SHRINE

We need more Awe and reverence
Achievements pale into insignificance
At the majesty of Clogwyn Du Arddu
Only we take this away
Sun kissed majestic cathedral
Stands imperious
Our need is more urgent now
I saw you holding on gripping
Tiger style, smooth and doubtless
Armed, embodied, sunk into the rock
Flowed and the path was conquered
In no great hurry of contained energy
You settled down to no acclaim of glory
Smoke drifted in waves of stillness
Colours were boundless
The door opened
Full of jewels and treasures
This all happened and does so
Presently there was no difference
Between us we share this moment.

For Jim and all those who know
15th December 2008

saltbeef

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1447
  • Karma: +50/-5
#68 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2008, 10:29:55 pm
 :yawn:

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3891
  • Karma: +144/-3
#69 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2008, 10:45:16 pm
I liked that last one

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6500
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary

PATRuL

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 199
  • Karma: +38/-33
#71 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2008, 11:32:24 pm
Thank you all for your reflections

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 23672
  • Karma: +499/-10
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#72 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2008, 08:16:07 am
Thank you for posting some non-drivel and dropping the stupid capital letters.

stevie haston

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 101
  • Karma: +23/-6
#73 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2008, 09:06:35 am
Ok; some one open a poetry thread. The recent repeats on grit with their various differeing methords have highlighted a few things, people bend rules or are confusing styles and overgrade, it may or may not be done on purpose. Climbers in the 80s used to argue about one grade differences, now you have two high profile routes with 3 grade differences actually. It is only right there are a few mutterings. The repeats of high boulder problems which sometimes got high E grades are also causing fuss. To be fair, many of the lads who are ticking the high balls with mats, are doing so in a very fast and impressive fashion, and are not intentionaly trying to pull the wool over anybodys eyes, it may be the internet or other methords of reporting. However everything has become very confused, the worlds perception of british trad is getting tarnished and indeed many old timers in brit are shaking there heads. The big questions are where are the standards , which are the hard routes, who are the really good climbers. How do short desperate routes compare to bigger fears? Broken ankle to death. It has always been hard to comunicate trad or engaged climbing (and it isnt necessarily only brits who do it) and it is getting more confused and trying to do so. Thats why games have rules, to define the game, and climbing I used to think was one of the finist games of all.  I am not suggesting you keep to the rules, you climb as you like, but reporting especially on the suposed big splash routes should be as tight as can be so people know where they are and what the routes are. Non of this is done by shit poetry. There is supposed to be a Bmc meeting discussing it, some of you should go. many people have pranged themselves badly on the grit it invites a playful full tilt solo, and thats one of the things that has defined it for me, couple that with the tentative friction slaps and it becomes something quite special, but how are we to honour the brave when we give purple heart for ingrowing toenails? TC please elaborate. Stevie

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 8968
  • Karma: +417/-7
#74 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2008, 10:56:38 am
Fuck the rules. Times move on. So some old men get confused, why should the youth care about that? New things don't fit neatly in the old boxes. None of this tarnishes old achievements any more than folk climbing Brown routes with sticky rubber and chalk did back in the day.
 I'm all for scrupulous detail in reporting of style details and as far as recent ascents go I'm happy to have seen this. Where's the beef?