significant repeats

UKBouldering.com

Help Support UKBouldering.com:

Nigel said:
However, this being a bouldering forum I think its relevant to point out that the difficulty has been downgraded from 8a to 7b+. That is a massive drop, and as I understand it the sequence has remained the same. If this was one of my boulder problems I would feel a bit of a lemon!

Would you hand back the sponsorship money?
 
Inane boring drivel is yawning on about GrADEs
Why not do some more pulling off, :oops:, typo, i meant ups
Whatever.
Do two VS's make an HVS?
Do three E9s make an E(x3)27?
I generally find qualitative action leads to greater rewards and consequently more happiness, which is in part what this game is about. Right?
One banana, two banana, three banana, four.
Creativity lies beyond pulling
There is a certain lightness, to pulling
I find the more i get jerky in my movements the more prone i am to erring.
However, throwing caution to the wind is not so clever
Anyway, sometimes one has to slap
Sometimes there is more need to master the quick step, other times the slow.
Boring drivellous RZActions are most likely born out of boredom with ones own patterns.
THinking, such as 'if i do more i will get more', generally leads to the sort of state we are currently in - GREeD and hyper-inflation of lots of things (such as eGos, the price of shoes and rum).
I'd say we are in a fine mess Stanley if we can not take a step back and really take stock of this situation.

Boring ... i think i'll do a degree in hyper-drivel.
Hum, thats a good idea, i'll post it on UKb

More tea vicar?
 
Looked at this thread again thinking that something of significance had happened.

All I found was this jokers drivel
 
I like jokes but you get a lotta shit, trivial one line, I think I am really funny stuff here. Yes grades are wierd to talk about, and talk about them we must. Yes some repeats are note worthy and some not so, if you dont find them interesting you are not obliged to post. Stevie boring Haston who is fairly interested in a lotta stuff about climbing and can buy comics if he wants to.
 
Inane drivel ... is the continual machismo drive for MOrE
:wall:
In a new drive ... life can be more each day
:pissed:



THE SHRINE

We need more Awe and reverence
Achievements pale into insignificance
At the majesty of Clogwyn Du Arddu
Only we take this away
Sun kissed majestic cathedral
Stands imperious
Our need is more urgent now
I saw you holding on gripping
Tiger style, smooth and doubtless
Armed, embodied, sunk into the rock
Flowed and the path was conquered
In no great hurry of contained energy
You settled down to no acclaim of glory
Smoke drifted in waves of stillness
Colours were boundless
The door opened
Full of jewels and treasures
This all happened and does so
Presently there was no difference
Between us we share this moment.

For Jim and all those who know
15th December 2008
 
Ok; some one open a poetry thread. The recent repeats on grit with their various differeing methords have highlighted a few things, people bend rules or are confusing styles and overgrade, it may or may not be done on purpose. Climbers in the 80s used to argue about one grade differences, now you have two high profile routes with 3 grade differences actually. It is only right there are a few mutterings. The repeats of high boulder problems which sometimes got high E grades are also causing fuss. To be fair, many of the lads who are ticking the high balls with mats, are doing so in a very fast and impressive fashion, and are not intentionaly trying to pull the wool over anybodys eyes, it may be the internet or other methords of reporting. However everything has become very confused, the worlds perception of british trad is getting tarnished and indeed many old timers in brit are shaking there heads. The big questions are where are the standards , which are the hard routes, who are the really good climbers. How do short desperate routes compare to bigger fears? Broken ankle to death. It has always been hard to comunicate trad or engaged climbing (and it isnt necessarily only brits who do it) and it is getting more confused and trying to do so. Thats why games have rules, to define the game, and climbing I used to think was one of the finist games of all. I am not suggesting you keep to the rules, you climb as you like, but reporting especially on the suposed big splash routes should be as tight as can be so people know where they are and what the routes are. Non of this is done by shit poetry. There is supposed to be a Bmc meeting discussing it, some of you should go. many people have pranged themselves badly on the grit it invites a playful full tilt solo, and thats one of the things that has defined it for me, couple that with the tentative friction slaps and it becomes something quite special, but how are we to honour the brave when we give purple heart for ingrowing toenails? TC please elaborate. Stevie
 
Fuck the rules. Times move on. So some old men get confused, why should the youth care about that? New things don't fit neatly in the old boxes. None of this tarnishes old achievements any more than folk climbing Brown routes with sticky rubber and chalk did back in the day.
I'm all for scrupulous detail in reporting of style details and as far as recent ascents go I'm happy to have seen this. Where's the beef?
 
I just had a vision of Stevie and PATrul going on a very long car journey together. :)

Actually, by the end of it, they were great friends.

It seemed in the 1980s that Brit standards were around the top. Jerry was doing his thing and Ben was doing the hardest redpoints. there was the Indian Face which seemed to stand head and shoulders above everything else in terms of danger - was this true, Stevie, as someone who was close to that scene? I wonder was the climbing culture in Britain much better then (don't worry c.j.d., not saying it's bad now - or is it don't worry bonjoy?) just that with the dole culture, people had the time they needed.

Now it seems like the Spanish have a great culture. Aren't they all firemen working six hours a week or something, leaving them the rest of the time to wire their forearms up to an electrode de-pumping flux capacitor?

And isn't there a town in Austria called Imst, near Innsbruck that just shits out wads? Loads of top comp climbers live and train there. It must be a super-psyched place. Compare that to Steve Mac driving to Malham by himself on a bitter March day, dropping a static line down Overshadow and shunting the dry sections.

There was a thing in a mag one time by Ian Parnell about all rounders ("And that, my friend, is a full house") mostly concentrating on trad and ice. In it, Dave Macleod said he should include sport and bouldering, as they were actually the hardest diciplines to do well in.

As such, Steve Mac is obviously the best climber in Britain (apologies to God-ologists out there). The other week he redpointed an 8c in Spain, just about (his own words) which Sharma then flashed. With ease. However, that was Steve on a route very much not his style and Sharma on a route that was. But still, 8c flash is an 8c flash.

I can't remember my point. I'm starTiNG to fEEL lIKe PaTRUl
 
cRunCH tiMe for GrAdeS!

thEIr CurrEnCY is fAILing.

iS A eUrOPeAn siNGle CurrEnCY tHe aNSwER?

No. wHaT's A roUTe'S wORTH?
 


Write your reply...
Back
Top