significant repeats
- Thread starter benpritch
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Pantontino
Well-Known Member
Fair play tc, not so much an armchair critic, more a wise old bastard!
Pantontino said:
Too kind, sir. Actually, you'd be surprised which bits of grit this wise old bastard has played with on a top rope over the last 30 years, particularly when I used to live 5 minutes away down Ringinglow Road (back in 1736). Never diss your grandad, that's my advice. You never know what he might have done in the war
Somebodys Fool
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 5, 2006
- Messages
- 1,053
Didn't you say it looked like an E5 7a?
If so, and the route does eventually settle down at E8, which is looking likely, then yours is the most wayward 'guess' yet. Hardly a reason to be gloating.
If so, and the route does eventually settle down at E8, which is looking likely, then yours is the most wayward 'guess' yet. Hardly a reason to be gloating.
D
dave
Guest
I think before it got done scouse said he thought it looked E5. I said it won't be a penny less than E8. back of the net.
Pantontino
Well-Known Member
Somebody's Fool said:
Quit fretting Si, it's not really gloating is it, more just an amusing scenario. And tc did say E5 7a originally, but then relented to E7. And as for the emerging consensus, surely that has to be weighted towards those with the most experience of hard E grades (i.e. Pete, Ben and Jack - that'll be a possible E8 and two E7 votes then). So it could still settle at E7.
Fine ascents Pete and Ben.
Two penneth (think we're up to four now!): I know there's a lot of shit flying around about the grade of The Promise and to be honest in a way its nonsense since giving sensible E grades to a stuff like this is nigh on impossible as well as being fairly pointless. However, this being a bouldering forum I think its relevant to point out that the difficulty has been downgraded from 8a to 7b+. That is a massive drop, and as I understand it the sequence has remained the same. If this was one of my boulder problems I would feel a bit of a lemon!
Mind you its not the biggest downgrade in the Peak right now so its not really news. Anyone for Pressure Drop? (cue T-shirt picture of Dense looking blankly upwards at stunning off vertical grit highball, perhaps shrugging shoulders).
Two penneth (think we're up to four now!): I know there's a lot of shit flying around about the grade of The Promise and to be honest in a way its nonsense since giving sensible E grades to a stuff like this is nigh on impossible as well as being fairly pointless. However, this being a bouldering forum I think its relevant to point out that the difficulty has been downgraded from 8a to 7b+. That is a massive drop, and as I understand it the sequence has remained the same. If this was one of my boulder problems I would feel a bit of a lemon!
Mind you its not the biggest downgrade in the Peak right now so its not really news. Anyone for Pressure Drop? (cue T-shirt picture of Dense looking blankly upwards at stunning off vertical grit highball, perhaps shrugging shoulders).
D
dave
Guest
E10 - pearson
"at least E9" - Alex H in the momentumVM interview.
(other yank guy presumably similar opinion? can't find any sources directly from him)
Top end E8 - JR
E7 - pete
"E7 is a little low" - bransbubble
obviously opinions there covering a range of experience, and ascents in different styles, from headpointed first ascent no mats thinking the gear poor, to thinking the gear is ok with some mats, to kicking the gear out on the way up, to lobbing onto the gear with mats and ladder etc. E7 sees hardly to be the average though as yet.
is pressure drop log these days?
"at least E9" - Alex H in the momentumVM interview.
(other yank guy presumably similar opinion? can't find any sources directly from him)
Top end E8 - JR
E7 - pete
"E7 is a little low" - bransbubble
obviously opinions there covering a range of experience, and ascents in different styles, from headpointed first ascent no mats thinking the gear poor, to thinking the gear is ok with some mats, to kicking the gear out on the way up, to lobbing onto the gear with mats and ladder etc. E7 sees hardly to be the average though as yet.
is pressure drop log these days?
Pantontino
Well-Known Member
Of course the first three in your list should have said Font 7b+ R.
Pete and Ben (and Jack, because he was a cat's whisker away) were climbing ground up and thus are the ones best placed to give the best feel for the true E grade.
Pete and Ben (and Jack, because he was a cat's whisker away) were climbing ground up and thus are the ones best placed to give the best feel for the true E grade.
Jaspersharpe
Allez Oleeeve!
Here we go again!
Sloper
Well-Known Member
I wonder what the proposed grade would have been if there hadn't been all the speculation about the [over] grading?
D
dave
Guest
for once, and only once, sloper has as valid point. often when something is perceived as being overgraded then the subsequent regrading is a bit of a rebound in the wrong direction. As a lot of people will probably note, theres a fair bit of this in the peak bouldering guide, like things on limestone that were given 7c previously then got down to 7a+ and lo and behold everyone then considers them nails for the grade. for this reason I would express caution in taking the E7 for promise at this stage, even if it was ground up. bearing in mind el mocho said E7 would be too low, and jack hasn't done it, (although it might seem harsh to say ignore jacks opinion, thats the rule - afterall he could get up tomorrow, do it, and have a change of heart) thats only one person saying E7, the rest saying hard E8 or 9. Theres loads of people who haven't done the route with a grade opinion, non of which are worth anything in the historical record. After more repeats we'll have a better idea.
Sloper
Well-Known Member
Perception is important, last might I was puntering at the works and failed to latch a jug on one of the yellow problems, having cruised it second go I said I thought it was english 5c.
This wasn't taken seriously until some other punters got on it and thought that was about right, you see they'd looked at a yellow problem and thought that must be hard so hand't really tried. The same effect can be experienced when you're being sandbagged, you're told it's say font 6a when its font 7a as a result you treat it like a 6a and flash it.
Like it or not all some downgrading is for reasons other than the grade.
PS aren't E grades supposed to be ground up without mats, ladders etc etc etc JR said that he thought that the promise was physically harder than EOTA; let's noty forget that the physical element plays a part in the E grade.
This wasn't taken seriously until some other punters got on it and thought that was about right, you see they'd looked at a yellow problem and thought that must be hard so hand't really tried. The same effect can be experienced when you're being sandbagged, you're told it's say font 6a when its font 7a as a result you treat it like a 6a and flash it.
Like it or not all some downgrading is for reasons other than the grade.
PS aren't E grades supposed to be ground up without mats, ladders etc etc etc JR said that he thought that the promise was physically harder than EOTA; let's noty forget that the physical element plays a part in the E grade.
a dense loner
Well-Known Member
can't believe you're bored in wales nodder, in winter
I'vE Just had a douBle Guiness.
I guesS thatS a repeat, just as significant as anything ElsE.
M3dia led - spoon fed - dRiVel
The CrEation of liFe
WhaT do yoU make uP?
grading NON SeNSe is riFe amongSt climbing account-ability-Ants
WhO is goiNg to SatisFy ouR inTernAl landSCape nOw BeN anD JeRRy huNg Up theiR BooTs?
Ah the joy of a good wander
BOBBY DiGiTaL skips over mind sludge, distracted from sleep, olive oil, media sluts, searching out the illusion of glory to satisfy WhAT/WHo?
Upbring ing is revealed in fancy footw0rk and little do we realise amidst our distraction have perfect every step we form is ...........
Hello YojnoB enjoy TOnF
I guesS thatS a repeat, just as significant as anything ElsE.
M3dia led - spoon fed - dRiVel
The CrEation of liFe
WhaT do yoU make uP?
grading NON SeNSe is riFe amongSt climbing account-ability-Ants
WhO is goiNg to SatisFy ouR inTernAl landSCape nOw BeN anD JeRRy huNg Up theiR BooTs?
Ah the joy of a good wander
BOBBY DiGiTaL skips over mind sludge, distracted from sleep, olive oil, media sluts, searching out the illusion of glory to satisfy WhAT/WHo?
Upbring ing is revealed in fancy footw0rk and little do we realise amidst our distraction have perfect every step we form is ...........
Hello YojnoB enjoy TOnF
Nibile
Part Animal Part Machine
so you did two pull ups, didn't you?PATRuL said:
Johnny Brown
Well-Known Member
Glad that Bobby is getting dragged into these grade debates.
