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significant repeats (Read 4282881 times)

SA Chris

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#10950 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2022, 11:47:27 pm
For sure, some floppy ploppin' though.

remus

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#10951 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2022, 03:27:33 pm
Solly Kemball-Dory has continued his strong year with a repeat of The Story of Two Worlds.

Fiend

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#10952 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2022, 08:02:32 pm


Tim Blake's done Cypher. Reckon that's still significant.
Nice straight up video. And significant in terms of how iconic the line and sequence are (not really involving much arete climbing!).

yetix

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remus

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#10954 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2022, 08:33:16 pm
Nice! Well good to see this hard stuff getting a lot of attention.

Bradders

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#10955 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2022, 08:38:52 pm
Nice double confirmation of the grade and reminder that Soudain Seul is 9A too!

jwi

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#10956 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2022, 09:45:59 pm
The lack of reading material is slightly disappointing.


teestub

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#10958 Re: significant repeats
December 20, 2022, 08:13:46 pm

Pierre Delas has done an interview: https://fanatic-climbing.com/simon-lorenzi-coche-alphane-simon-lorenzi-ticks-alphane-interview/

Quote
   I think the hype around the boulder is explained by its style which is very suitable for modern climbers, fans of suspensions and spray wall. It’s not for nothing that the boulder suited very well to the two Englishmen. After watching them in “Alphane” and other boulders, it would be ridiculous not to believe that the world level is increasing. I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a level of finger power, the “Lattice Training” training seems to work very well…


Brilliant 🤣 JWI is ‘suspensions’ here boards?

yetix

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#10959 Re: significant repeats
December 20, 2022, 08:31:32 pm
Could be very wrong but I think it means overhangs here.

Duma

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#10960 Re: significant repeats
December 20, 2022, 08:37:20 pm
I assumed it meant fingerboarding/deadhangs.
Also odd he mentions spray walls in the context of the brits, I think of them as more of a Euro thing?

Wonder how Will feels about being an "Englishman"?
« Last Edit: December 20, 2022, 08:42:39 pm by Duma »

jwi

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#10961 Re: significant repeats
December 20, 2022, 09:00:48 pm

Brilliant 🤣 JWI is ‘suspensions’ here boards?

Kind-of. Suspensions = hangs, something you do on a poutre = hang board.

Don't expect people not from outside the British isles to know the difference between the various toponyms of geographical and political areas of the archipelago. I certainly don't expect anyone outside of the nordic countries to be able to point to scandinavia on a map.

SA Chris

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#10962 Re: significant repeats
December 20, 2022, 09:57:57 pm
I didn't even know there was a country called Scandinavia. Is it near the country called Lapland?

jwi

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#10963 Re: significant repeats
December 20, 2022, 10:23:35 pm
You are in the right area of the map.

jwi

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#10964 Re: significant repeats
December 20, 2022, 10:29:39 pm
I assumed it meant fingerboarding/deadhangs.
Also odd he mentions spray walls in the context of the brits, I think of them as more of a Euro thing?

French pan is what I would call a board in English. Very few bouldering gyms in France have them, or at least any good ones. I have only been to one gym in Belgium and it did not have one. (Come to think about it, the gym might have been in Lille... basically Belgium.)

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#10965 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2023, 09:37:29 pm
Sometimes it feels like you're waiting to catch a GIANT fish.... staying up late trying to fill that hole.... know wOt i mean?

ferret

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#10966 Re: significant repeats
January 07, 2023, 10:29:12 pm
Sometimes it feels like you're waiting to catch a GIANT fish.... staying up late trying to fill that hole.... know wOt i mean?
Nobody ever knows wOt you mean but we enjoy reading the posts anyway

PATRuL

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#10967 Re: significant repeats
January 08, 2023, 04:50:48 pm
'Ow about a new thread .... 'SiGnificant ReTreaTs'?

remus

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#10968 Re: significant repeats
January 29, 2023, 06:26:19 pm
Michaela Kiersch has climbed La Rambla in Siurana, making her the 10th woman to climb a route 9a+ or harder.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CoAhE4EsAKm/

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#10969 Re: significant repeats
January 29, 2023, 07:04:03 pm
Absolute hero!

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#10970 Re: significant repeats
January 30, 2023, 08:32:03 am
Michaela Kiersch has climbed La Rambla in Siurana, making her the 10th woman to climb a route 9a+ or harder.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CoAhE4EsAKm/

Seb Berthe has now also just done it

remus

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#10971 Re: significant repeats
February 05, 2023, 08:28:20 pm
Tom Randall and Calum muskett have repeated the walk of life E9 at Dyer's Lookout.

The route is getting on for one of the most repeated non grit E9s.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CoSlyiIMAGU/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

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#10972 Re: significant repeats
February 06, 2023, 06:03:55 pm
Ryuichi Murai has repeated Sleepwalker V16. Sounds like a new hold was discovered on the top part, don't know if this makes a difference to the grade

https://www.instagram.com/p/CoVHrY_vgBq/

jakk

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#10973 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2023, 12:30:52 pm
Ryuichi Murai has repeated Sleepwalker V16. Sounds like a new hold was discovered on the top part, don't know if this makes a difference to the grade

https://www.instagram.com/p/CoVHrY_vgBq/

Pretty cool!
It does look a bit like "I found a new hold" here actually means "Ryuichi decides to hold some absurd intermediate because he's magic"

remus

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#10974 Re: significant repeats
February 12, 2023, 09:46:35 pm
Looks like Alex Norton has made a strong start to the lime season with a repeat of Persian Dawn 8c+, Buster Martin's alternate finish to Make it Funky at the tor.

Katie Lamb has climbed Spectre 8B in the Buttermilks. I think her's is the first female ascent?

 

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