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AidanWad (Read 102929 times)

hongkongstuey

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#350 Re: AidanWad
April 11, 2024, 11:12:19 am
Full clip is on the patreon https://www.patreon.com/posts/aidans-close-go-83500270

cheers guys (hadn't realised i could scan through all the older uploads on the Patreon to see what was uploaded before i'd signed up... that's a good afternoon at 'work' k.o'd for me  ;D)
« Last Edit: April 11, 2024, 11:20:57 am by hongkongstuey »

T_B

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#351 Re: AidanWad
April 11, 2024, 01:35:43 pm
I donít really get all this agonising over grades.

Sharma had a long period when he didnít grade anything.

If youíre right at the top of the game then you can do what you like. Aidan is there and his attitude to place/process and all that is refreshing. He maybe doesnít realise it but he has the potential to really influence how we perceive climbing.

I personally am pretty inspired by his approach and the way he articulates his experiences. I cannot say that about many other top/current climbers, including Ondra. Maybe Iím a bit biased being from the Lakes myself but the bit in the pod about local projects really resonated with me.

Heís a gifted communicator and these recent climbs deserve something long form both written and visual. I thought the Wedge film Mastery was absolutely top notch. Hopefully they can put something else together similar with the help of Patagonia.

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#352 Re: AidanWad
April 11, 2024, 02:16:03 pm
Great post Tom, I agree with all of that, so nice to have such a good climber who can give a bit more context to their experience and process on these things.

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#353 Re: AidanWad
April 11, 2024, 03:10:37 pm
Agreed. Have to say it's a bit of a shame there's been so much cynicism around this. I think we're incredibly lucky Aidan is so happy to delve into such detail on his experiences; very rare for someone operating at the absolute top of the game. The podcast is a brilliant resource for anyone interested in these top end performances.

I'm not even sure anyone's said well done to him yet! Just in case; bloody well done Aidan! Properly psyched for you  :strongbench: :icon_beerchug:

Particularly amazing to have done the Midnight problem from the lower start too, given just the higher start seemed like it'd be right up with the hardest things around.

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#354 Re: AidanWad
April 11, 2024, 03:52:42 pm
I donít really get all this agonising over grades.

Sharma had a long period when he didnít grade anything.

If youíre right at the top of the game then you can do what you like. Aidan is there and his attitude to place/process and all that is refreshing. He maybe doesnít realise it but he has the potential to really influence how we perceive climbing.

I personally am pretty inspired by his approach and the way he articulates his experiences. I cannot say that about many other top/current climbers, including Ondra. Maybe Iím a bit biased being from the Lakes myself but the bit in the pod about local projects really resonated with me.

Heís a gifted communicator and these recent climbs deserve something long form both written and visual. I thought the Wedge film Mastery was absolutely top notch. Hopefully they can put something else together similar with the help of Patagonia.

Yeah, I think heís right that at this point the grades are detracting from the climbs themselves. Certainly the conversation is get skewed. And as Iíve mentioned before the conversation in forums like insta is really vitriolic.

Itís interesting that UKC hasnít even picked this up as news yet. Maybe they are waiting for comment or words from Aidan, but youíd expect if he had graded them that this would have been instant news flashes. Itís almost like without the grade it doesnít count.

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#355 Re: AidanWad
April 11, 2024, 04:44:14 pm
If it's left ungraded then the media will just make up a grade, say if Aidan says its the hardest thing he's done, media will just say it must be 9A then and call it that. I think they're just incapable of abandoning the grade narrative.

andy moles

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#356 Re: AidanWad
April 11, 2024, 06:11:17 pm
But, playing devil's advocate a wee bit - people are only interested because it's very hard. And the grade is just a quantification of how hard. It could be a stunning problem, it could be a shit problem - in any case it's too hard for 99.99% of people who follow climbing media to even attempt, so what's the angle of interest if not how hard it is? 'Climber has really profound experience'? That could happen on a VS and it wouldn't be 'news'.

I'm trying to imagine UKC publishing a News Flash titled 'Aidan Roberts Climbs Hard Project'. Guaranteed almost instantly there would be speculation and chat about the grade. So it's not just the media publishers, it's the consumers too.

All this said, I think it's cool to stick two fingers up to the shallowness of the media and do things on your own terms.

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#357 Re: AidanWad
April 11, 2024, 07:38:22 pm
If it's left ungraded then the media will just make up a grade, say if Aidan says its the hardest thing he's done, media will just say it must be 9A then and call it that. I think they're just incapable of abandoning the grade narrative.

I don't think he really left them completely ungraded, more didnt want to commit to an exact number. 

In the podcast he said if he was to put a grade range on Spots of Time it would be 8c+ to 9a and hinted that if forced he probably say 9a but he wasn't sure how much the style suited him (also said he found it took more effort for him than Alphane).  Must be one of the very hardest problems in the UK.

On the Midnight project he said it suited him much better and Sam got him to admit that it he thought it would be the harder of the 2 for most climbers.  Also seems like quite a few other strong climbers have tried it with him.  Sounds proper hard and almost certainly in the 9a range.

Really impressive first ascents by a UK boulderer who's operating right at the top of world standards, exciting stuff.  Thought the podcast was well worth a listen, sometimes I find them a little unfocused (though often interesting) but this episode gave a really insight into the climbing of these problems.


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#358 Re: AidanWad
April 11, 2024, 07:48:56 pm
Climbing media has definitely published news about ungraded things - Tribe springs to mind most immediately.

We as climbers in general are fairly addicted to grades (myself included) I really like how Aidan thinks about all this and has the courage to not reduce these things to grades.

They are clearly hard and Iím sure he will attach a number eventually.

What I also like about Aidan is that he just does his own thing, at his own pace and is only psyched for other people doing their stuff.

He is a process and soul climber through and through and it showsÖ because heís not necessarily trying to get to the top. Definitely something I am trying to be better at.

Very deserving to stand on top of these bouldersÖ long May he continue to have great experiences fettling around on minging crimps

 

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