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Ondrawad (Read 652953 times)

Liamhutch89

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#2275 Re: Ondrawad
January 20, 2022, 10:36:33 am
Does this possibly make Jakob the climber of the moment with ascents of Perfecto Mundo, King Capella and the Olympic lead wall  ;D

PlainCroi$$ant

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#2276 Re: Ondrawad
January 20, 2022, 11:34:58 am
Jakob climbed Perfecto Mundo almost two years ago I think?

But he does seem to be the form climber right now with Erebor etc going down quickly too!

AJM

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#2277 Re: Ondrawad
January 21, 2022, 10:41:05 am
Strong reportage, cheers Adam.

On the grade of Furia, Will said 9b, Jakob said 9a+ and Megos said the easiest of Kong capella and la capella. I can imagine it settling at 9a+.

UKC is quoting Ondra saying low end 9a+ on 8a.nu, maybe a little harder but not 9b if you're short.

https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/spain/la-capella/sectors/unknown-sector/routes/furia-de-jabali?utm_content=link1&utm_campaign=news_id_0&utm_medium=news_post&utm_source=ukclimbing

Bradders

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#2278 Re: Ondrawad
January 23, 2022, 09:07:18 pm
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link

Adam Lincoln

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#2279 Re: Ondrawad
January 23, 2022, 09:19:12 pm
Also disagrees with Sharma saying on 8a.nu golpe de estado is 9b+.


HaeMeS

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#2280 Re: Ondrawad
January 23, 2022, 09:27:00 pm
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link

 :-\

Ondra: 'In the last two weeks between visiting my sponsors, I got to spend 5 climbing days in Siurana 🇪🇦 The main goal King Capella 9b threw me down numerous times in the crux move, but on my last day I got climb La Furia de Jabali, short explosive and fingery route first ascended by @will_bosi last year ✌️

This one went down very quickly, I had previously checked the moves once, then on the last day after two unsuccessful tries in King Capella, I rechecked the crux move again and did it on my second serious try 👌 The main crux is with the same beta as @will_bosi (00:28 - 00:52), for traverse to the left I use completely different method, the double-gaston shoulder-about-to-explode beta 😅, which might be a little easier. I agree with @jakob.schubert and his proposal 9a+ (compared to original 9b).


Bradders

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#2281 Re: Ondrawad
January 24, 2022, 07:31:42 am
Seems to have downgraded King Capella despite having failed to climb it; willy waving?

https://www.instagram.com/adam.ondra/tv/CZFZZ3cBZtH/?utm_medium=copy_link

 :-\

He's talking about Furia, he didn't do King Capella.

teestub

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#2282 Re: Ondrawad
January 24, 2022, 08:06:17 am
Didnít Schubert and Megos both say 9b so heís just going with the consensus?

 

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