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significant repeats (Read 3668742 times)

Fiend

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#10325 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2022, 07:25:39 pm
Good stuff, looks ace in that shot.

spidermonkey09

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#10326 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2022, 07:32:28 pm

All routes at Malham are a bit eliminate as  the staircase left is much easier.

That staircase is about 8b at the end of a session

Adam Lincoln

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#10327 Re: significant repeats
February 07, 2022, 07:43:25 pm

All routes at Malham are a bit eliminate as  the staircase left is much easier.

That staircase is about 8b at the end of a session

Very true!

Bradders

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#10328 Re: significant repeats
February 12, 2022, 06:52:13 pm
Big repeats in Font today. La Revolutionnaire 3rd(?) ascent

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZ40nbqtHfS/?utm_medium=copy_link

And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

jwi

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#10329 Re: significant repeats
February 12, 2022, 08:04:33 pm
Falaisist extraordinaire and average slab climber Alizée Dufrais has repeated Heritage 8b/+ in Val Bavona


Wood FT

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#10330 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 07:54:15 am
Falaisist extraordinaire and average slab climber Alizée Dufrais has repeated Heritage 8b/+ in Val Bavona



Nice, I’ve been following the progress of this. Nice to see her complete a project

Wood FT

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#10331 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 07:54:35 am
Falaisist extraordinaire and average slab climber Alizée Dufrais has repeated Heritage 8b/+ in Val Bavona



Great, I’ve been following the progress of this. Nice to see her complete a project

Duma

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#10332 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 08:11:26 am
She did Versace too the other day.

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#10333 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 08:12:48 am
What does falaisist mean jwi? And why average slab climber?

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#10334 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 08:20:02 pm
What does falaisist mean jwi?
Literally ”rockclimber”, but mostly used to separate outdoor specialists from the rest.


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#10335 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 08:24:46 pm
You could say cragsman/woman, though it’s a bit old fashioned.

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#10336 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 10:47:08 pm
Big repeats in Font today. La Revolutionnaire 3rd(?) ascent

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZ40nbqtHfS/?utm_medium=copy_link

And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

Interview with Coudert on fanatic climbing:

https://fanatic-climbing.com/camille-coudert-empoche-la-3eme-ascension-de-soudain-seul-camille-coudert-claims-the-third-ascent-of-soudain-seul-interview/

Apparently Coudert did the stand start 5-6 times per session for several session before doing the low start.

Quote
– What do you think about the usage of knee pads on this boulder? Is it a lot harder without?
I find that there is not a lot to mull over, that is like asking what you think about using heel hooks on this boulder problem. Without knee pads the boulder is more or less impossible.

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#10337 Re: significant repeats
February 13, 2022, 10:56:49 pm

Interview with Coudert on fanatic climbing:

https://fanatic-climbing.com/camille-coudert-empoche-la-3eme-ascension-de-soudain-seul-camille-coudert-claims-the-third-ascent-of-soudain-seul-interview/

Apparently Coudert did the stand start 5-6 times per session for several session before doing the low start.

43 laps on The Big Island by the time he did Soudain :jaw: Talk about having it dialed.

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#10338 Re: significant repeats
February 14, 2022, 08:26:04 am
You could say cragsman/woman, though it’s a bit old fashioned.

cragrat...

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#10339 Re: significant repeats
February 14, 2022, 09:28:06 am

Interview with Coudert on fanatic climbing:

https://fanatic-climbing.com/camille-coudert-empoche-la-3eme-ascension-de-soudain-seul-camille-coudert-claims-the-third-ascent-of-soudain-seul-interview/

Apparently Coudert did the stand start 5-6 times per session for several session before doing the low start.

43 laps on The Big Island by the time he did Soudain :jaw: Talk about having it dialed.

I'm not sure that's all too unusual. Certainly when I've been working on a sit start to something, particularly longer problems, I'll do the stand / from a few moves in a lot. Doesn't really change with higher difficulty, the process is the same.

If anything it would be more impressive to do the sit quickly without having done the stand that much.

Great interview that anyway.

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#10340 Re: significant repeats
February 14, 2022, 09:34:28 am
For sure, makes sense in the context but still impressive to me when you consider the standalone difficulty of The Big Island.

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#10341 Re: significant repeats
February 14, 2022, 09:47:28 am
Big repeats in Font today. La Revolutionnaire 3rd(?) ascent

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZ40nbqtHfS/?utm_medium=copy_link

And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

Interview with Coudert on fanatic climbing:

https://fanatic-climbing.com/camille-coudert-empoche-la-3eme-ascension-de-soudain-seul-camille-coudert-claims-the-third-ascent-of-soudain-seul-interview/

Apparently Coudert did the stand start 5-6 times per session for several session before doing the low start.

Quote
– What do you think about the usage of knee pads on this boulder? Is it a lot harder without?
I find that there is not a lot to mull over, that is like asking what you think about using heel hooks on this boulder problem. Without knee pads the boulder is more or less impossible.

Who was talking about kneepads? All I want to know is has it been done without a book yet!

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#10342 Re: significant repeats
February 14, 2022, 01:36:27 pm

Interview with Coudert on fanatic climbing:

https://fanatic-climbing.com/camille-coudert-empoche-la-3eme-ascension-de-soudain-seul-camille-coudert-claims-the-third-ascent-of-soudain-seul-interview/

Apparently Coudert did the stand start 5-6 times per session for several session before doing the low start.

43 laps on The Big Island by the time he did Soudain :jaw: Talk about having it dialed.

"Hard to know the number of sessions I put in the boulder I would say twice a week on average for almost 8 months in all. Which must be between 70 and 100 sessions"

Jeez.

Bradders

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#10343 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 05:02:00 pm
Posting this here for a few reasons:
1. It's a lovely little video
2. First repeat since hold breakage so great to see that it still goes, as in my opinion it's up there with the absolute best most inspiring lines on grit
3. It sounds like Will is suggesting the stand is now 8B+, which would mean the sit will potentially be the first 8C on grit when it gets done!


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#10344 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 09:30:58 pm
Doesn't he say he thinks its more than 8B+? If so why 8B in the title of the vid? Its not the same as it was due to the break...

Bradders

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#10345 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 09:56:50 pm
Doesn't he say he thinks its more than 8B+? If so why 8B in the title of the vid? Its not the same as it was due to the break...

He says "more on the 8B+ side". Probably just says 8B in the title as that's what it was before.

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#10346 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 09:59:52 pm
Doesn't he say he thinks its more than 8B+? If so why 8B in the title of the vid? Its not the same as it was due to the break...

He says "more on the 8B+ side". Probably just says 8B in the title as that's what it was before.

6:25 in the vid  :-\

Bradders

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#10347 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 10:25:22 pm
Doesn't he say he thinks its more than 8B+? If so why 8B in the title of the vid? Its not the same as it was due to the break...

He says "more on the 8B+ side". Probably just says 8B in the title as that's what it was before.

6:25 in the vid  :-\

Yeah exactly, that's when he says "I definitely think it's more on the 8B+ side"  ;)

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#10348 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 10:33:33 pm
One man's opinion a consensus does not make.

Was there not a thread about this recently?

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#10349 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 10:38:08 pm
One man's opinion a consensus does not make.


As he’s the only one to repeat it since it broke, I guess it’s the only data point we have some far! And Mr Bosi is not exactly a stranger to pulling on small holds.

 

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