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significant repeats (Read 3668731 times)

Fultonius

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#10350 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 10:40:47 pm
Don't want to second guess the guy, but maybe he's hinting it might be hard, but happy to take the lower grade until there are more repeats? Seems sensible and saves another downgrade?

mrjonathanr

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#10351 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 11:04:55 pm
One man's opinion a consensus does not make.

Was there not a thread about this recently?

Quote from: HD Thoreau New England Bouldering 1846
any man more right than his neighbors constitutes a majority of one already,
.

Just sayin'.

JJP

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#10352 Re: significant repeats
February 15, 2022, 11:14:35 pm
Ye really enjoyed the video and again he comes across really well - seems to give a lot of thought to grade discussion etc

36chambers

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#10353 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 10:25:44 am
And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

For the uncut ascent:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CaCJgPBIUR0/

jwi

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#10354 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 10:36:29 am
And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

For the uncut ascent:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CaCJgPBIUR0/

Interestingly Camille says that he has very little experience, but thinks it is 9A unless everything else that he has tried or done in the 8C/C+ range is off. In fact, even if it is "only" 9A some of the problems he compare with in the 8C/C+ range must be overgraded never the less.

36chambers

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#10355 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 10:53:33 am
I wonder if Nico was thinking about anyone in particular when he said...

Quote from: Nico Pelorson
I think there are many climbers in the world who could climb the boulder with enough investment and that would not be the case with a real 9a boulder.

Wellsy

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#10356 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 11:08:08 am
9A without the kneepad

Bonjoy

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#10357 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 11:59:31 am
Posting this here for a few reasons:
1. It's a lovely little video
2. First repeat since hold breakage so great to see that it still goes, as in my opinion it's up there with the absolute best most inspiring lines on grit
3. It sounds like Will is suggesting the stand is now 8B+, which would mean the sit will potentially be the first 8C on grit when it gets done!


Nice!
Good old Anasazi Velcro heels. Wonder how hard/doable it would be without.
« Last Edit: February 16, 2022, 03:39:17 pm by Bonjoy, Reason: spelling »

steveri

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#10358 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 12:03:11 pm
I like that he's properly trying after getting that move. Sometimes these hard videos just look like the inevitable execution of something was going to happen at some point. Like the climber is just running through things and there's a detachment to it.

mr chaz

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#10359 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 12:05:05 pm
And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

For the uncut ascent:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CaCJgPBIUR0/

Excellent noises, first equine ascent?

remus

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#10360 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 12:15:02 pm
Nice!
Good old Anastasis Velcro heels. Wonder how hard/doable it would be without.

Quite a few people did it in non 5.10s prior to the hold break so I guess it doesn't make too much difference e.g. Hamish Potokar, Dave Fitzgerald.

Bradders

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#10361 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 12:41:47 pm
And, Soudain Seul also had its 3rd ascent by Camille Coudert.

For the uncut ascent:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CaCJgPBIUR0/

Interestingly Camille says that he has very little experience, but thinks it is 9A unless everything else that he has tried or done in the 8C/C+ range is off. In fact, even if it is "only" 9A some of the problems he compare with in the 8C/C+ range must be overgraded never the less.

It's all getting a bit Franco that, comparing it to things he hasn't done and has little experience of....  ;)

I wonder if Nico was thinking about anyone in particular when he said...

Quote from: Nico Pelorson
I think there are many climbers in the world who could climb the boulder with enough investment and that would not be the case with a real 9a boulder.

Haha shots fired! That really doesn't make any sense though, just because it's a workable problem that rewards time investment doesn't make it any easier, and therefore shouldn't affect the grade which is for the difficulty involved in climbing from bottom to top on a given attempt.

Nibile

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#10362 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 02:18:59 pm
Good old Anastasis
Their heel is just divine!
 ;)

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#10363 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 02:47:25 pm
Nice!
Good old Anastasis Velcro heels. Wonder how hard/doable it would be without.

Quite a few people did it in non 5.10s prior to the hold break so I guess it doesn't make too much difference e.g. Hamish Potokar, Dave Fitzgerald.

I used a Instinct lace for the stand and a Futura on the sit.

For ages, I didn't actually use the pebble and just used a heel on the ramp. The hold Will now uses to go around the corner, is  must worse. I did try it like that and I did do the move around the corner, but it makes the next move really hard, because on the original hold, once you got the crimp out right, you changed it from a pinch to a crimp..... I then cut loose to reset the heel.

7.15 mins.

I find it funny that people think the sit start isn't very hard, I thought it was pretty tough and made the stand super frustrating.

 

Bonjoy

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#10364 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 03:45:28 pm
Cheers. Sounds like the Anasazi heel is probably not crucial, which is good I guess.
I thought the same (from my armchair) about the sit. In my limited experience any amount of vaguely tricky climbing before a very low percentage skin dependant move will have a disproportionately large influence on overall difficulty.

Wellsy

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#10365 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 04:47:13 pm
It saps the numbers of goes in a session doesn't it. You can do the bottom every time no worries but if it means each go at the crux is more tiring and skin consuming then while it might not be that much harder in terms of climbing, actually projecting it might be a lot harder.

edshakey

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#10366 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 05:02:52 pm
9A without the kneepad

Ned appears to be out in the forest. Wonder if he's packed his kneepad?  :popcorn:

mr chaz

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#10367 Re: significant repeats
February 16, 2022, 05:59:27 pm
9A without the kneepad

Ned appears to be out in the forest. Wonder if he's packed his kneepad?  :popcorn:

Along with 2 copies of Beastmaking, guaranteed results   

jwi

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#10368 Re: significant repeats
February 19, 2022, 01:11:28 pm
Pierre Le Cerf has repeated Eagle-4 in Saint Léger. Having found a hands-off kneebar (with kneepad) between the two hard sections and a better sequence on the first crux he suggest a downgrade to 9a+.

Also a beef: They were playing music on the crag because they are yuppies. Cedric Lachat kicked the loudspeaker out in the forest, but unfortunately they did not break, so everyone: if you run into Lachat, buy him a beer. (I am not the only one who has the impression that Lachat does not hear very well, so the music had to be pretty loud if he was disturbed by it on a route far from the speakers)

https://www.grimper.com/news-pierre-cerf-repete-eagle-4-avec-peu-logique-sais-peux-dire-9b

AMorris

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#10369 Re: significant repeats
February 19, 2022, 01:22:39 pm
Also a beef: They were playing music on the crag because they are yuppies. Cedric Lachat kicked the loudspeaker out in the forest, but unfortunately they did not break, so everyone: if you run into Lachat, buy him a beer. (I am not the only one who has the impression that Lachat does not hear very well, so the music had to be pretty loud if he was disturbed by it on a route far from the speakers)

This is tremendous. I have always liked Lachat, he was great fun to watch at the WCs.

SA Chris

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#10370 Re: significant repeats
February 21, 2022, 08:07:45 am
They were playing music on the crag because they are yuppies

Did they travel there from 1986 in a 3 series BMW?

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#10371 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2022, 06:51:06 pm
Carlo Traversi has done Magic Line, placing the gear on lead.

remus

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#10372 Re: significant repeats
March 01, 2022, 08:35:48 pm
Mega! Fourth ascent after Ron, Lonnie and Hazel?

In other news James Pearson has done Juneru in albarracin for his first 8C.

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remus

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#10374 Re: significant repeats
March 04, 2022, 07:33:18 pm
Bigger news than Brandenburg?! Bosi's added a proposed 8B+ to the school https://www.instagram.com/p/CasMEYclGhm/

 

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