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significant repeats (Read 3387270 times)

shark

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#10275 Re: significant repeats
December 12, 2021, 10:08:19 pm
They're the same grade according to Schubert.

?

“King Capella probably felt like hard 9b to me and La Capella definitely didn’t feel harder than 9a+“

jwi

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#10276 Re: significant repeats
December 13, 2021, 06:04:49 pm
I can definitely have a lot of goes in a day on a short route at my limit, and probably only 1 go on a long route at my limit that involves getting high.

I think that’s pretty individual, I can definitely get three quality attempts, falling high on all attempts on 40m routes at my limit. Not much more attempts on short strength endurance things, four maybe.

remus

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#10277 Re: significant repeats
December 13, 2021, 08:35:33 pm
They're the same grade according to Schubert.

?

“King Capella probably felt like hard 9b to me and La Capella definitely didn’t feel harder than 9a+“

I assume Ged was comparing the grade of King Capella/La Capella to Fight or Flight/Chaxi.

Ged

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#10278 Re: significant repeats
December 13, 2021, 09:29:10 pm
They're the same grade according to Schubert.

?

“King Capella probably felt like hard 9b to me and La Capella definitely didn’t feel harder than 9a+“

I assume Ged was comparing the grade of King Capella/La Capella to Fight or Flight/Chaxi.

Yes I was, sorry for confusion.

Whatever, sharma is the best!

Nibile

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#10279 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2021, 09:23:22 am

remus

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#10280 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2021, 05:53:28 pm
Nathan Philips has done Off the Wagon.

teestub

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Wood FT

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#10282 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2021, 06:30:35 pm
Very cool

MischaHY

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#10283 Re: significant repeats
December 14, 2021, 09:18:15 pm
Megos has done La Capella. Found it hard apparently.

jwi

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#10284 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2021, 12:15:35 pm
More Capella stuff. Jakob Schubert talks and climbs



remus

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#10285 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2021, 05:47:16 pm
Turns out that Jakob also managed to climb everything hard at the la capella sector (>8c) during his 9 day trip, including a flash of jungle speed (8c+ or 9a depending on who you ask).

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CXgvAweDI5H/

jwi

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#10286 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2021, 05:47:42 pm
 If Jungle Speed is 8c+ Jacob joins a very exclusive group of six (?) climbers who have done a route of that grade without any prior practice, and if Jungle Speed is 9a Jacob joins a group of three.

? = Adam, Alex, Magnus, Patxi and Ramón (from the top of my head) + Jakob

remus

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#10287 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2021, 06:39:45 pm
? = Adam, Alex, Magnus, Patxi and Ramón (from the top of my head) + Jakob

Daniel woods has logged pure imagination as a flash on 8a.nu, reckon that's probably a mistake though as he also logged southern smoke direct as a flash and there's some footage out there of him working it.

HaeMeS

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#10288 Re: significant repeats
December 15, 2021, 10:47:28 pm
Schubert has flashed 8c+ before in 2016 (?) en 2020.

https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/10/jakob-schubert-flasht-lichtjahre-8c/

Adam Lincoln

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#10289 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2021, 05:09:27 pm
Shawn rabatou just flashed spectre! Very impressive

« Last Edit: December 16, 2021, 05:24:56 pm by Adam Lincoln »

Mike Highbury

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#10290 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2021, 06:00:43 pm
Shawn rabatou just flashed spectre! Very impressive

Is the talk of money a joke or is this something like the type of contract that he has?

Adam Lincoln

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#10291 Re: significant repeats
December 16, 2021, 06:28:38 pm
Shawn rabatou just flashed spectre! Very impressive

Is the talk of money a joke or is this something like the type of contract that he has?

No id imagine its true. North Face athlete incentive. 11k day. Wonder what else he climbed.

remus

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#10292 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 08:30:17 am
Schubert has flashed 8c+ before in 2016 (?) en 2020.

https://kletterblock.de/en_GB/2020/10/jakob-schubert-flasht-lichtjahre-8c/

I had a little look around and Jakob also flashed Victimes del Futur at margalef towards the end of 2019. Seems a bit murky around the grade as some holds have broken, but he suggested 8c+/9a and people logging it on 8a.nu seem to be suggesting 9a for it. Seems to me he's snuck in to the very exclusive '9a first try' club!

gme

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#10293 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 11:29:10 am
Impressive trip from Jacob.
Is this the start of a bit of a jump in performances off the back of the Olympics as was suggested in a separate thread. Also another case (janja)of comp climbers doing cutting edge ascents outside in short trips between training for indoors. To me Jacob is very much a comp climber who goes outside a bit, when they get an opportunity. Megos and Ondra the opposite outside of Olympics run in.

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#10294 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 01:56:13 pm
To me Jacob is very much a comp climber who goes outside a bit, when they get an opportunity. Megos and Ondra the opposite outside of Olympics run in.

A little unfair on Jacob I think - I might not be much into putting new routes up and probably spends more time at comps than Ondra/Megos but his sport ticklist is pretty decent:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jakob_Schubert#Redpointed_routes

Slightly out of date (doesn't include his recent Siurana/Margalef routes) and almost certainly not complete but still includes 1 9b+, 5 9bs and 7 9a+s

gme

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#10295 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 03:26:29 pm
Yes hes amazing, probably 2nd best behind Ondra but, like Will Bosi they appear to be more focused on comps and fit going outside around it.

I would guess that their training is based on the comp season not outside projects.

Duncan Disorderly

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#10296 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 04:28:54 pm
Looks like Stefano Ghisolfi has done his Lonely Mountain project...

Sounds like hard 9b...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXlypuBsMwg/

edshakey

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#10297 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 04:38:01 pm
Looks like Stefano Ghisolfi has done his Lonely Mountain project...

Sounds like hard 9b...

https://www.instagram.com/p/CXlypuBsMwg/

Welcome to 2022, the year of symbolic grades that are acknowledged as wrong  :dance1:

Fiend

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#10298 Re: significant repeats
December 17, 2021, 04:40:56 pm
Welcome to 2022, the year of symbolic grades that are acknowledged as wrong  :dance1:
Something to look forward to then!

jwi

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